Hi guys,
My apologies to those for not replying sooner to some of their messages. It's just been very hectic and I've only had the chance to start re-checking my car issues today.
I've used a KKL409 cable from ebay with VCDS and it found a few faults, but some I missed before VCDS crashed before I could write down which ones they were. All I know one of them was related to a turbo issue and the other with central locking. These though I will come back to once I've got the system running up once again.
For now, here are the two faults & information I've managed to capture:-
1. 19463 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40). No Signal. P3007 - 35-10 ---Intermittent
2. 01548 - Sensor for Parking Aid: Rear Right (G206). 37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent
Could you guys please tell me:-
1. what these errors mean
2. Do I require new components
3. How do I know what part number/model to order that would fit my vehicle?
4. Are these parts difficult to change if I did the job myself?
Thanks very much.
Faulty camshaft sensor,fairly easy to change just need to pop top timing cover off to access and remove a rubber grommet to extract wiring.
1 parking sensor required on rear,easy to push out and change.
You won't need a part number just your reg should do when you tell a motor factor/dealer what you require.
Quote from: johnnyroper on August 21, 2016, 11:42:13 PM
Faulty camshaft sensor,fairly easy to change just need to pop top timing cover off to access and remove a rubber grommet to extract wiring.
1 parking sensor required on rear,easy to push out and change.
You won't need a part number just your reg should do when you tell a motor factor/dealer what you require.
Hello again mate. Long time no speak.
That's great that I can do the job myself, but i'm purchasing the parts from eBay as the dealers or local shops are too expensive (unless you know somewhere cheaper, lol), so I want to make sure that it's not the wrong one or a fake one.
Couple of other things :-
1. Is there a picture / video guide that I can follow to take out these parts?
2. Would the rear bumper need coming off to replace the parking sensor?
Hello yes it's been a while.
Not sure if there is a guide in ref library but all you need to do is take out air box,remove top timing cover with the 2 Spring clips. Once off you will see the sensor it is held in by a locating peg and a bolt. If you follow the cable you will see a grommet pop that out and then the sensor plug can be pushed through the hole.
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLKSWAGEN-GOLF-V-1-9-TDI-2003-TO-2008-CAMSHAFT-POSITION-SENSOR-/171753045209?hash=item27fd477cd9%3Ag%3A-pkAAOSwNSxVK7DJ&_trkparms=pageci%253Af223f021-682c-11e6-9b57-005056b2547e%257Cparentrq%253Ab0d0dc5f1560a7944d3f5522fffd23e6%257Ciid%253A9
Here's an eBay link the 1.9pd sensor is same for all engines.
Parking sensor wise personally I wouldn't get one off eBay as from experience they are cheap copies and do not work,maybe post on here see if someone has a good used one knocking about they would sell?
No you don't need to take bumper off,just look underneath there are 2 plastic tags on bumper gently push them away from sensor while pushing sensor through hole. Then just unplug,swap over and push replacement in to bumper.
Quote from: johnnyroper on August 22, 2016, 07:03:34 AM
Hello yes it's been a while.
Not sure if there is a guide in ref library but all you need to do is take out air box,remove top timing cover with the 2 Spring clips. Once off you will see the sensor it is held in by a locating peg and a bolt. If you follow the cable you will see a grommet pop that out and then the sensor plug can be pushed through the hole.
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLKSWAGEN-GOLF-V-1-9-TDI-2003-TO-2008-CAMSHAFT-POSITION-SENSOR-/171753045209?hash=item27fd477cd9%3Ag%3A-pkAAOSwNSxVK7DJ&_trkparms=pageci%253Af223f021-682c-11e6-9b57-005056b2547e%257Cparentrq%253Ab0d0dc5f1560a7944d3f5522fffd23e6%257Ciid%253A9
Here's an eBay link the 1.9pd sensor is same for all engines.
Parking sensor wise personally I wouldn't get one off eBay as from experience they are cheap copies and do not work,maybe post on here see if someone has a good used one knocking about they would sell?
No you don't need to take bumper off,just look underneath there are 2 plastic tags on bumper gently push them away from sensor while pushing sensor through hole. Then just unplug,swap over and push replacement in to bumper.
Thanks very much johnny for the link and info.
CAM SENSOR:What's the difference between the one in the link you've shown me and this one??? :-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-GALAXY-95-06-1-9-TDi-CAM-CAMSHAFT-POSITION-SPEED-SENSOR-NEW-/281580858354?hash=item418f86ebf2:g:cS8AAOSwxYxUygYl
PARKING SENSOR: I'd certainly be a very happy man if all it involves is pushing some plastic tags, but I'm sure I read somewhere that for models above 2005, the bumper has to come off and mine was registered in 2006??? Also, I've noticed that there seems to be 2 different parking sensors for the galaxy:-
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/212xsuOCttL._SX300_.jpg)
&
(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/rL4AAOSwQTVV9nt2/s-l300.jpg)
Mine looks like the second one. But is there a difference or can both be fitted to the rear bumper?
I didn't realise you can buy stuff on this forum. How can I know the person sending it is genuine?
probably just who manufactures them as all PD use same sensor.
The parking sensors are easy to tell apart have a look at yours and see if they are round or if they have the oval in middle. The small one might work with both but it will not clip in to the bumper due to length I don't think.
I am not sure about later models needing bumper off mine does not they simply pop out of the lower black trim. Soon be able to tell by looking at yours and if you can look underneath and see where it goes through bumper.
I have purchased a few items off members and never had any issues,obviously there can always be dodgy people but my experience is members on here are trustworthy and good to their word.
Quote from: johnnyroper on August 22, 2016, 09:25:47 AM
probably just who manufactures them as all PD use same sensor.
The parking sensors are easy to tell apart have a look at yours and see if they are round or if they have the oval in middle. The small one might work with both but it will not clip in to the bumper due to length I don't think.
I am not sure about later models needing bumper off mine does not they simply pop out of the lower black trim. Soon be able to tell by looking at yours and if you can look underneath and see where it goes through bumper.
I have purchased a few items off members and never had any issues,obviously there can always be dodgy people but my experience is members on here are trustworthy and good to their word.
So other than it being a different manufacturer, quality wise the cam sensor in my link should be no different?
I checked out the market place on this forum, but there isn't anything on sale at the moment. I'll just have to purchase the pdc from somewhere else I guess as I need it asap.
I'll check the location of this pdc sensor when I get home later today,but mine is definitely has the oval shape within it.
Cannot comment on the quality as I don't have experience of vw can sensors. From Vauxhall days we never had issues with aftermarket can and crank sensors,the ones to have oe or Bosch are maf and map.
If you put a post in the market place for good used Pdc sensor required someone might respond.
Have you cleared these codes as they may be old faults? you will generate a faulty cam sensor code if engine is run with it disconnected.
Quote from: Chrispb on August 22, 2016, 12:27:56 PM
Have you cleared these codes as they may be old faults? you will generate a faulty cam sensor code if engine is run with it disconnected.
Hi Chris. Sorry I forgot to mention that yes I did clear the codes, but it came back on with a couple of hours after using the vehicle.
Btw, may I ask what the systems of a faulty cam sensor are?
Sorry prev question should be "Btw, may I ask what the SYMPTOMS of a faulty cam sensor are?"
Sorry to post here again guys. But could someone kindly have a look at the ebay link below and tell me if this is the correct original parking sensor that johnny is referring to?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=182240985525&fromMakeTrack=true#ht_500wt_1414
If it is, then at least I won't have to wait to find one.
Thanks very much.
Yep, those are the O.E fitment parking sensors. I bought a new one from Ford a while ago- it was 60 odd quid plus VAT......... ::)
P.S, regarding the Cam position sensor, take a read here (https://www.fordmpv.com/ford-galaxy/warm-starting-problems/) (and some of the links within), I think some of the symptoms are outlined.
Thanks for the helpful info insanitybeard.
Yes those are almost exactly the same symptoms, including rough idle/shaking, stalling either whilst stationary or when I set off in first gear.
I've ordered the both sensors. Let's hope they are the correct ones. I tried taking off the parking sensor on the rear bumper, but it won't come off. Not sure how to disconnect it.
The parking sensors get a build up of dirt behind them so can be tight to push out. But if you get underneath hold the tabs across while pushing with thumb it should come out.
Quote from: johnnyroper on August 22, 2016, 11:37:11 PM
The parking sensors get a build up of dirt behind them so can be tight to push out. But if you get underneath hold the tabs across while pushing with thumb it should come out.
Thanks buddy. I'm waiting for the parking sensor to arrive before taking the old one off, but I'll let you know how I get on.
I've had a lot of issues with regards to the KKL 409.1 cable & vcds software. It 90% of the time doesn't detect the cable and it's really frustrating.
Anyway, for the short period of time I got it to work, it's thrown up a few more errors. Maybe someone could kindly advise on these and how to resolve the problem:-
Cent. Elect.01143 - Central Locking Motors; Driver Door and Tank Valve Unlocked. 36-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
01142 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs. 36-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
Airbag00532 - Supply Voltage B+. 07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
Thanks
Hi, I dont know if you are aware of this site from Ross-tech, the makers of VCDS. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00532 , Its called Ross-Tech Wiki and has lots of valuable info including fault codes and possible solutions. Well worth putting a shortcut to on your computer.
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Main_Page
Quote from: steveo59 on August 23, 2016, 10:16:15 PM
Hi, I dont know if you are aware of this site from Ross-tech, the makers of VCDS. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00532 , Its called Ross-Tech Wiki and has lots of valuable info including fault codes and possible solutions. Well worth putting a shortcut to on your computer.
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Main_Page
Thanks very much for the links Steve. To be honest, I've already seen these, however the solutions ross-tech wiki provides are not clear for dummies like me and I prefer if they showed pictures or videos in order to help me understand where the parts are located and what exactly to do with them.
No sure if it was mentioned, but when removing the sensor make sure you unclip the sensor when pushing it.
I slipped off the clip when i unclip mine and ended up taking the whole plastic clip with the sensor.
Its fair to say its a huge palarva trying to glue the plastic back on.
Quote from: bestfc01 on August 24, 2016, 08:57:44 AM
No sure if it was mentioned, but when removing the sensor make sure you unclip the sensor when pushing it.
I slipped off the clip when i unclip mine and ended up taking the whole plastic clip with the sensor.
Its fair to say its a huge palarva trying to glue the plastic back on.
Thanks for the advanced warning. I have tried to take it off butit seems to be stuck. Where are these clips? Can you show me them in a photo/picture?
Sorry don't have a picture and not got car today to take one.
But if you get on your back and look up behind bumper you will see where sensor slides in, look towards plug end of sensor the clips are horizontal 180 degrees apart if I remember correctly. They are like small tabs with square cut in to them. Just gently push them away from sensor and then give front of sensor a good push it should pop out.
Quote from: johnnyroper on August 24, 2016, 02:13:37 PM
Sorry don't have a picture and not got car today to take one.
But if you get on your back and look up behind bumper you will see where sensor slides in, look towards plug end of sensor the clips are horizontal 180 degrees apart if I remember correctly. They are like small tabs with square cut in to them. Just gently push them away from sensor and then give front of sensor a good push it should pop out.
Just like above.
I dont have a picture and I dont have my car this week either.
There rears are a piece of p**s to do as you can lay on the floor and get a good look.
O and beware, there is prob alot of dirt build up in the rear bumper (well there was with mine), dont be directly under the actual sensor,
Also, dont over push the clip.
The clip only sits on about 3-4mm.
When you get the replacement your see how the notch is
They can be a royal PITA to get out but only because of the crud build up. Its not uncommon for the holder to come away from the bumper before the sensor pushes out so careful is the way to go!
On the plus side if it does come away then its easy enough to hot glue back into position so don't panic!!
Thanks so much guys for your excellent advice and reassurance. The cam position sensor and pdc sensor were supposed to arrive today, but unfortunately nothing has come through post. Most likely it should be by tomorrow.
Please be ready and watch out for my thread just in case I open the car and get stuck in replacing any of these sensors.
Thanks again.
Dont forget to take some pics for the ref library please!!
Quote from: Mirez on August 24, 2016, 05:59:55 PM
Dont forget to take some pics for the ref library please!!
Not a problem. I'll take them as I disconnect/reconnect the parts. But if I post on here regarding this issue, I'd be grateful if someone could remind me, just incase I forget :P
Quote from: Mirez on August 24, 2016, 05:40:04 PM
They can be a royal PITA to get out but only because of the crud build up. Its not uncommon for the holder to come away from the bumper before the sensor pushes out so careful is the way to go!
On the plus side if it does come away then its easy enough to hot glue back into position so don't panic!!
Ah Hot Glue.
Why didnt I think of that.
I struggled using some super strong superglue.
Hi guys... I'm already stuck. Do I need to remove the air filter box to get to the timing belt cover? And if so, how does the cover come off?
Yes, the airbox needs to come off. The procedure to remove the airbox and the top timing belt cover should be covered in the first few stages outlined here (https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/ford-galaxy-mk2-1-9-tdi-(pd)-timing-belt-kit-water-pump-replacement/), there is no need to disturb the engine mount though, nor do you need to support the engine with a jack or mess around with the alternator belt and tensioner!
You need to:
a) remove the airbox
b) Unclip the top plastic timing belt cover, this will hopefully give you enough access to remove and refit the cam position sensor. Worst case you might need to remove the centre metal timing belt cover (which is accessed from below the engine mount, requiring undertray removal if it's fitted) but hopefully you can do it without.
I can't take the sensor on the far right of the airbox, because it requires a security screw driver. Also do I lift the whole box out?
You don't need to unscrew the sensor, simply unclip the electrical connector from it. Yes, the whole box will lift out.
Thanks mate. Ive managed to lift it off and also taken off the timing belt cover. HoweverI can't seem to find the cam sensor under there.
Have you referred back to this (https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy/warm-starting-problems/msg19280/#msg19280) image?
Yes. I can just about see thegrommet and bolt, but how can I take it out and replace it without doing this blindly or without taking the timing belt off?
Also I've tried using a Ratchet spanner to get to the bolt and to me, it's not possible without removing more parts.. Any advice
I'm not saying it won't be a bit fiddly as the below image was taken with the engine mount removed and the engine jacked up to improve access but you can still 'see' the sensor and grommet with the timing belt and tensioner still installed:
[attachimg=1]
To be honest, I can't see the bolt or grommet without feeling for them.
Do you have whatsapp?? I can send you pictures in real-time of what I can see
Working blind on vehicles is not uncommon to be honest, if you don't feel confident in proceeding further then I can't be of any further help I'm afraid. Sometimes a small mirror (like an old wing mirror glass) can be helpful to allow you to 'see' things when they're not in your line of sight or there are obstructions.
P.S, I wouldn't be using a ratchet spanner to remove the sensor retaining bolt, it needs a 1/4" ratchet and a deep socket or shallow socket on a short extension I.M.O.
Quote from: insanitybeard on August 25, 2016, 06:43:30 PM
Working blind on vehicles is not uncommon to be honest, if you don't feel confident in proceeding further then I can't be of any further help I'm afraid. Sometimes a small mirror (like an old wing mirror glass) can be helpful to allow you to 'see' things when they're not in your line of sight or there are obstructions.
I understand what you're saying buddy. My worry is lets say I manage to take the bolt and mounting off, but then how is the cam sensor wire fed back in? Do you simply push it in fron the top and it connects to the bottom?
Also what size is the bolt that needs coming off?
The bolt that retains the sensor should be a 10mm hex head as far as I can tell. My main concern would be to ensure you don't drop said bolt down into the lower timing belt area when you remove it! The purpose of removing the grommet is to allow you to feed the cable and the connector through from the engine bay- the actual connector for the sensor is near the oil filter housing, arrowed red, and the wire can just be seen emerging from the timing belt enclosure in the area I've circled yellow:
[attachimg=1]
P.S, what does your new cam position sensor look like? It should look like this (https://www.fordpartsuk.com/shop/ford_galaxy_camshaft_position_sensor_19l_diesel_2000-2006_f_1253755_c_712.htm).
Yes the sensor looks exactly like the one in the picture. However, I've given up, because I don't feel confident in doing this as I'm not sure if I'm doing this the correct way. I've started assembling the stuff back and I can't even get the damn airbox back in.
Best hand this job to a garage. Any ideas how much they should charge?
Between half an hour to an hours labour I would guess.
P.S, I've just ordered one of these sensors for my Galaxy to hopefully rectify an intermittent starting problem. If you can wait until next week I can give you a first hand account of replacing the thing!
Hi mate,
I'd be willing to wait and see how you get on. I'm wondering if I could ask you a big favour? ....Is it possible that rather than photos, you make a movie on your phone and upload it? It would make it a lot easier for dummies like me to work out how you guys are replacing this part and also you can add it to the forum library?
My main worry is if I left it too long, it fails to start ???
Anyway it's been an awful day today as it's been pouring down like hell. Tomorrow is hopefully a dry day, so whilst I'm waiting for you, I'll give the rear parking sensor a try next.
You done the hardest part with air box and cover off.
As above use a 1/4 drive socket to get in the bolt but before removing put some rag in gap between lower cover and engine just in case you drop bolt it won't fall inside. A dab of grease in socket would also help keep bolt in socket.
The grommet can be grabbed with some long nose pliers I reckon, don't give up and pay a garage just yet try and tackle it again when it's not hammering down.
Quote from: johnnyroper on August 25, 2016, 09:09:14 PM
You done the hardest part with air box and cover off.
As above use a 1/4 drive socket to get in the bolt but before removing put some rag in gap between lower cover and engine just in case you drop bolt it won't fall inside. A dab of grease in socket would also help keep bolt in socket.
The grommet can be grabbed with some long nose pliers I reckon, don't give up and pay a garage just yet try and tackle it again when it's not hammering down.
Thanks for the encouraging post johnny. Sometimes it's best to realise if a task might be a tad to difficult and that's what's happened in my case. But I'm not one to give up. If insanity can provide a video showing how he takes out the old one and then replace it with a new one, I would sure as hell give it a go, but not until then.
Here you go a video off tinternet on changing sensor.
It's of a golf BRM engine but it's same set up for the auy Galaxy. It will be easier on a galaxy as there is no fuel pipes,intake pipe work or fuel pipes to remove/get in the way.
So long as you can use hand tools I see no reason why you shouldn't be able to have it changed and up and running inside an hour.
Quote from: johnnyroper on August 25, 2016, 10:23:05 PM
Here you go a video off tinternet on changing sensor.
It's of a golf BRM engine but it's same set up for the auy Galaxy. It will be easier on a galaxy as there is no fuel pipes,intake pipe work or fuel pipes to remove/get in the way.
So long as you can use hand tools I see no reason why you shouldn't be able to have it changed and up and running inside an hour.
Link? ? ? ? ? ? :D
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=r4GzRBmhMO0
Haha sorry brain elsewhere today as on nights.
Quote from: johnnyroper on August 25, 2016, 11:50:18 PM
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=r4GzRBmhMO0
Haha sorry brain elsewhere today as on nights.
LOL! Don't worry buddy. We've all been there :P
Firstly, thanks for the excellent video. This seems to be definately a job thats not for me, because it's too fiddly for me.
This golf engine has somewhat different layout as the guy working is accessing some of the areas at the front, whereas mine are withing the timing belt.
He can also easily access the timing belt bolt by just moving some pipes, whereas I have an engine mount in the way, so the gap is very narrow.
I forgot to ask insanity what vehicle/engine he has, because if it's the same as mine, i.e. a ford galaxy 1.9TDI (mk2), then I think a similar video would be extremely helpful to make my mind up.
The pictures I posted are all from a 1.9 PD TDI, which was the only diesel unit fitted to the Mk2 Galaxy. Some of the work (i.e, removing the electrical connector and feeding the cable through) is done from the front of the engine bay area. I will try to do a video if I can but it may not be that useful because the video will only show what's visible in line of sight, not what's obscured by obstructions, and as it is a bit of a fiddly job, there will be lots of those!
No worries insanity, see if you can, but if it's an issue then it's not a problem.
I was asked to take photos whilst try to replace cam & parking sensors, so here is what I took:-
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/20wz3b5nphl62zf/AAAdrsb66xeexbXf0BjozFUga?dl=0
I still haven't managed to take out the parking sensor...what a pain in A$$
I wish there was someone from this forum living close enough to repair this for me. I've been to several garages and they've said they can't do the cam sensor as it's a big job. More like their cowboys. >:(
Right, I've managed to find a garage guy who can do this and he's going to charge me Ã,£40. However he advised that I should get a good quality cam sensor as some are cheap brands that breakdown very quickly? He said preferably from dealers.
Is he right? Is there a quality difference between the ones dealers do and the ones off ebay? ???
Dealers will be from well known manufacturers like Bosch etc.
eBay ones will be a generic and you probably won't know who makes them. However I have had pattern parts for Vauxhall in the past that were made by Bosch the same as ones Vauxhall supply.
On the listing does it say who manufactures it?
No branding that I could find as such.
Here is the listing:-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281580858354?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I managed to find a genuine VW one on ebay for 40 quid but alas it was the last one the seller had. As johnnyroper said it depends on who made the part, a lot of O.E manufacturers also sell to the aftermarket and there would be no issues in using one of their parts. Having said that there's also a lot of mickey mouse stuff out there that's probably little better than the duff part you're replacing!
Right, thanks insanity. The million dollar question is, whilst I'm waiting for you to get your cam sensor replaced, should I stick with the unbranded one I've got or look for another one instead?
Up to you really, at the price it's advertised for I doubt the one you've linked will be made by one of the well known manufacturers. If you crunch 045957147B into ebay (it's the VW part number for the cam sensor and exactly the same as what you'd get if you ordered a genuine Ford one) you'll see a range of sensors and prices on there, 60 odd quid is the cheapest genuine part on there at the mo. The Febi branded ones might be ok, they are a major aftermarket parts producer, but I don't have first hand experience of their stuff.
Check out what GSF and eurocarparts have got,they will sell equivalent to OE and an alternative. They should be perfectly fine whatever option you go for.
Thanks guys. Apologies for the late reply.
Johnny - GSF sell the sensor for Ã,£72.50. Eurocarparts have two makes:-
HAAS Camshaft Sensor - Ã,£36.99
Crankshaft Sensor (Unknown Brand Name) - Ã,£22.49
Insanity - Which part did you order for your own vehicle? BTW, your right. On ebay the genuine one is for around Ã,£60. There are a couple of others:-
Febi - Ã,£32.90
Erste Wahl - Ã,£17.99
Meyle - Ã,£18.23
From above, it looks like I have some choices....can't make my mind up.
It's one of them things where you go for the best you can afford/willing to spend.
Avoid the haas one though as I got haas maf and map for mine and they were utter garbage maf lasted few hours map managed a month before failing.
Out of them a good compromise is the febi one if you don't want to spend 60-70 on a sensor.
Quote from: fordnewbie on August 27, 2016, 11:05:12 PM
Insanity - Which part did you order for your own vehicle? BTW, your right. On ebay the genuine one is for around Ã,£60. There are a couple of others
I went for a genuine VW part but as per my previous post I managed to find somebody on ebay selling one for 40 quid, but I bought the last one they had! It's a personal preference but I normally don't buy secondhand or cheap unbranded aftermarket electrical parts for cars, unless it's made by one of the O.E manufacturers- Bosch, Siemens, Denso, Pierberg, Marelli, Hella etc. Done once done right is my motto where at all possible!
Thanks very much.
You both spot-on as it's no point scrimping on cheap parts if there is a risk of those parts breaking down quickly. I'm going to hold for a little longer and keep watching for a genuine part to appear on ebay and this way and by the time I make a purchase, I should find out how insanity's venture went, which should give me an idea if I can possibly do it myself thus saving money or go with a garage for extra Ã,£40.
I could go for the febi, but the worry of a cheap part breaking down will constantly be playing on my mind.
Well it's landed. Circumstances permitting I'll have a go at fitting it later!
[attachimg=1]
Quote from: insanitybeard on August 31, 2016, 09:52:50 AM
Well it's landed. Circumstances permitting I'll have a go at fitting it later!
[attachimg=1]
Excellent! 8-) Can't wait to see how you get this done. ;D
Keep us posted mate.
Hi there
I bought a cam sensor from this crowd on ebay...not this exact item but same description..and it worked fine..no more errors or refusing to start....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLKSWAGEN-PASSAT-VARIANT-1-9-TDI-2005-TO-2008-CAMSHAFT-POSITION-SENSOR-/171753042875?hash=item27fd4773bb:g:gGkAAOSwpDdVK7AD (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLKSWAGEN-PASSAT-VARIANT-1-9-TDI-2005-TO-2008-CAMSHAFT-POSITION-SENSOR-/171753042875?hash=item27fd4773bb:g:gGkAAOSwpDdVK7AD)
There is a guy on Youtube called Thomas EXOVCDS..that has done the replacement of this sensor on a similar engine...just different code engine..different horsepower etc.. but equipment wise, identical. Might be worth a look...just search his page.
After removing cam belt top cover, as suggested, just stuff some cloth down and around cam belt just in case the bolt falls out of socket.
There is a guy on ebay with some used and tested Parking sensor for 12 pounds...a risk but not an expensive one?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-GALAXY-SEAT-ALHAMBRA-VW-SHARAN-REVERSE-SENSOR-TESTED-/182228733867?hash=item2a6dadcfab:m:mPbROSE4RrKQrONPzeyePPA (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-GALAXY-SEAT-ALHAMBRA-VW-SHARAN-REVERSE-SENSOR-TESTED-/182228733867?hash=item2a6dadcfab:m:mPbROSE4RrKQrONPzeyePPA)
Or this crowd seem to have good feedback..sensors look decent anyway?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-VW-Seat-Skoda-Ford-PDC-Parking-Sensor-Galaxy-Sharan-A2-A3-A4-A6-7M3919275A-/251780270015?hash=item3a9f4607bf:g:OfkAAOSw~uhUqLGY (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-VW-Seat-Skoda-Ford-PDC-Parking-Sensor-Galaxy-Sharan-A2-A3-A4-A6-7M3919275A-/251780270015?hash=item3a9f4607bf:g:OfkAAOSw~uhUqLGY)
It all boils down to whether you can replace these items yourself...if you can, then the cheaper parts are worth a shot! Because you can change the part 3 times for the price of giving to a garage...assuming your time is free!!!
However, even if you give the job to a garage, as we all know there are only limited guarantees there too! Even with 'quality' parts????
If you have a socket set and Youtube and obviously following the advice on here!....give it a go!!!!!
Best of luck....
N.
Thank niall for the links and info.
Firstly the parking sensor has already been ordered and received. Just haven't successfully managed to take the old one off, so have left it for a bit.
I had a look at the youtube video and the guy in video states a user needs to go under the vehicle in order to access the cam sensor, so his layout and removal process looks different from my vehicle's. I feel that the only way to access the cam sensor is to remove the engine mounting, but don't know no how.
The cam link you've provided for ebay....what make is that?
Done it. Tried a video but gave up due to the job being quite fiddly and needing both hands to work with, and the camera would have needed to have been where I was working. Upshot is, no need to get under the vehicle or work from underneath (as long as you don't drop anything!), no need to disturb engine mount. Just engine top cover (if fitted), airbox and topmost timing belt cover need to be removed. Plenty of pictures to follow, but that'll have to wait as I can't do that from my phone. As jobs on cars go, it's really not that bad, I've done much worse!
Bet it was easier than re assembling the tailgate lock tumbler and cam that I have just had to do??
Only removed handle to repaint it and lock all came apart,what a faff getting back together and working again!!!
Ah yes, the flat plate tumblers and the tiny springs that bear against them, I have done a few of those in my time! I changed my passenger glovebox as it had a busted hinge pin and had to extract the lock from the old glovebox and transfer it to the new one!
No problem...
I've tracked down the actual Youtube video....https://youtu.be/r4GzRBmhMO0 (https://youtu.be/r4GzRBmhMO0)...not the best quality video though.
It's not exact same engine layout but sensor location and grommet location are the same. Most obvious difference is the air filter box in the Galaxy.
As for the sensor, I believe it was a Meyle brand cam sensor that I got. Looking at the pics on ebay half of them look the same regardless of brand.
Well done insanity.... balloons. I'll wait for your pics mate.
I've tried, but it's just not a job for me...I guess I'm not a fiddly type :P
- Niall - Yes that's the video I watched, but not only is the engine different, the guys is working under it, so it's not something I can do.
I'll do a proper writeup at some point but for now......
1) Remove airbox, engine top cover (not the rocker cover!) if fitted and topmost plastic timing belt cover (held on with two spring clips). Disconnect the camshaft sensor from the engine bay wiring loom at a point just to the left of the oil filter housing (as viewed from the front of the engine bay). The connectors are retained in a little bracket which they will simply slide out of.
2) Locate cam position sensor underneath and to the right of the camshaft sprocket- held on by a single 10mm bolt. You need a compact 1/4" drive ratchet and deep 10mm socket (as per the below image) or shallow 10mm socket on a short extension to get on the bolt- put some padding/ rag below to catch the bolt should you drop it whilst removing/ installing! The bolt head is just visible (circled red) in the below image- between the timing belt and timing belt enclosure backplate:
[attachimg=1]
The below image shows the sensor up close below the camshaft sprocket. The rubber grommet that needs to be pushed out from the sensor side (i.e, out into the engine bay) is arrowed yellow:
[attachimg=2]
View of the grommet and sensor cable emerging from the timing belt enclosure as seen from the engine bay:
[attachimg=3]
View of the grommet hole with grommet removed and sensor retaining bolt removed:
[attachimg=6]
View with sensor removed showing the hole for the locating lug (circled yellow) which is found on the back of the sensor. Said lug stops the sensor from being able to move/ rotate once the bolt is tightened up:
[attachimg=4]
View with the sensor part removed whilst feeding the cable and multiplug through the grommet hole (the grommet has to be removed to allow the electrical connector to be fed through into the the timing belt enclosure so that the sensor can be removed from the vehicle):
[attachimg=5]
Hi Insanity,
My sincere apologies for the late reply. I've been so busy with family stuff that I've not had any chance to go on the net.
Thanks for the clear photos mate. They are extremely helpful and if you've got more, then please do keep them coming.
Okay, so I contacted one of the ebay sellers regarding purchasing the genuine vw part. He asked for theno. plate and checked and said that the 045957147B isn't compatible ??? and instead suggested 0191315020 as my engine code is AUY and 85kw? ??? ??? ??? ???
I'll be honest and say that I don't have a clue, but can someone please explain what the difference is between the 2 part no's and which is the one for my vehicle?
I was under the impression all 1.9pd use the same sensor. This screen shot of the ford part number confirms same sensor for all 1.9 from 2000-2006. So I would go with the part insanitybeard has used.
Thanks very much johnny.
I will order asap.
In the meantime, here is another disaster I've had after managing to take out the parking sensor ;D:-
(https://s21.postimg.org/grz1ilf2f/psensor1.jpg)
(https://s21.postimg.org/lrwhqjkp3/psensor2.jpg)
Now I'll have to find a way to delicately join the plastic back again. To make matters worse, the sensor I bought, doesn't seem to work. Whereas my parking sensor problem originally was intermittent, after plugging this one in, I get a constant long beep when the switch/reverse is activated.
You can stick that back with hot-glue or alternatively VW sell it as a seperate part if you need to replace.
I have plenty of sensors knocking about if you need another
Quote from: Mirez on September 04, 2016, 06:26:29 PM
You can stick that back with hot-glue or alternatively VW sell it as a seperate part if you need to replace.
I have plenty of sensors knocking about if you need another
Really? That's very kind of you. How much do you want Mirez? PM me if required. Also how can I be sure that it's a sensor that's the fault and not something else, such as the wiring?
The wiring is simple to check,you can continuity check from sensor plug to connector behind nerdier rear light or even plug on control unit under passenger seat.
I'd be very surprised if your '55 plate Galaxy uses a different camshaft sensor to mine. If you look at this (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ford-Crankshaft-Position-Sensor-1253755-/122003944313) [eBay] listing and the first picture in that listing, use the zoom function to view the image full size and you'll see that what they say is Ford part number 1253755 is actually a VW part- it's got the VW part number 045 957 147 B printed on the protective cable shrouding! Even the 'genuine' Ford part will actually be a repackaged VW part basically. The worrying thing is that the seller for the part I've just linked has listed it as a crankshaft sensor! ???
Sorry just realised my typo..... Damn iPhone and fat fingers!
Should say connector behind near side rear light.
@johnnyroper - I don't have a multimeter mate, so no way of checking and I wouldn't know the first thing about this.
@insanitybeard - I've now ordered the genuine cam sensor (045957147B) from a new seller for Ã,£60. However this seller also adviced that I confirm the correct part number with ford as they believe it might not be compatible. I called ford and they said they are not allowed to give out part numbers as people take the part numbers and then buy the part cheaper from other places...sly gits, are making a killing on these parts!
Ã,£127!!!@Mirez - You around mate? Any chance of selling me a parking sensor? PM me please. Thanks!
My old (i.e factory fitted) sensor also carries the number 045 957 147B on the cable trunking, so I know 100% I've fitted the correct part! I can't see yours having a different sensor on it, but if you take a look at the cable trunking of your old sensor you should be able to see the same number as I've just quoted printed on it- you can just make a bit of it out in the bottom right of the third image of the set of images I posted, you should be able to read it off (assuming it's there) without having to remove the sensor from the vehicle.
Quote from: insanitybeard on September 05, 2016, 05:42:30 PM
My old (i.e factory fitted) sensor also carries the number 045 957 147B on the cable trunking, so I know 100% I've fitted the correct part! I can't see yours having a different sensor on it, but if you take a look at the cable trunking of your old sensor you should be able to see the same number as I've just quoted printed on it- you can just make a bit of it out in the bottom right of the third image of the set of images I posted, you should be able to read it off (assuming it's there) without having to remove the sensor from the vehicle.
I think your spot-on buddy! :o
What do you make of the partial numbers on these photos? Do they look like the same as yours?? :-
(https://s14.postimg.org/l8moh7o0h/20160905_192531.jpg)
(https://s14.postimg.org/s0hoxt2dt/20160905_192606.jpg)
(https://s14.postimg.org/tgt7fy5ap/20160905_192621.jpg)
I can see 045 957 in your pictures, the last bit is hidden behind the spherical plastic vacuum reservoir but I think it's a pretty safe bet to say your sensor is exactly the same as mine.
Quote from: insanitybeard on September 05, 2016, 08:12:22 PM
I can see 045 957 in your pictures, the last bit is hidden behind the spherical plastic vacuum reservoir but I think it's a pretty safe bet to say your sensor is exactly the same as mine.
Insanity pal I love you to bits! :-* :P
Now it's just a matter of waiting for the part and then pass it to the local garage. I didn't even realise this was the wire until you told me that it's visible...all this time I've been thinking it's hidden away somewhere within the engine. I still don't get how it disappears to it's left and how someone can so easily feed it through.
Well, it's not 'easy' in that sense, it's fiddly but it is do-able. Once the sensor is unbolted and physically free and you've disconnected the sensor electrical connector from the main wiring loom next to the oil filter housing you just feed the connector multiplug through the grommet hole and it's free, ready for the replacement to be fed through.
Yeah I thought so. I don't think it's worth the risk of trying to do it yourself just to save Ã,£40 as the downside could be that I end up breaking or losing something or without a vehicle and I'll lose a lot more than Ã,£40.
One thing though.....What is the difference between a Cam Impulse Sensor and a Cam Position Sensor?
No difference. They're just alternative references for the same thing. The 'impulse' just refers to the fact that it's an inductive sensor which generates a 'pulse' of electricity which is detected by the engine management when a couple of metal tabs which are part of the camshaft hub pass over it. It works in the same fashion as an ABS sensor basically.
Thanks insanity.
The good news is that the part is now here. I've booked in at the garage for this weekend and will let you know how I get on. Once new part is in, what are the main symptoms that I should notice?
If the replacement cam sensor fixes the fault then hopefully there won't be any symptoms! My reason for replacement of the sensor was to hopefully cure an intermittent (and occasional) refusal to start, especially with the engine partly warmed up, it doesn't seem to be a problem from cold. So far with the new sensor I've not had any issues so fingers crossed!
For me the car starts fine when cold, but as engine warms up, it takes longer to start, stalls suddenly and sometimes it loses power and won't go faster than 30mph.
Did you have any issues with the cam sensor wire being short? The one I've got is about 2cm short from the previous one I had.
I never had running concerns once the engine had started, and no problems starting from cold. Just occasional problems whereby the engine if part warmed up or hot would just crank and crank and crank and not fire. Recently, when the fault occurred it would crank, fire and die immediately. No issues since the sensor was replaced so fingers crossed that's sorted it.
To answer your other question, the new sensor was a carbon copy of the original one. No difference in the cable length at all.
I forgot to ask, when you had the old cam sensor, did any of your engine management lights come on? ....Because mine don't.
No, I never had any warning lights illuminated as a result of the fault but then it didn't affect engine running, only starting, and then it was (for the most part) very occasional.
Right I see....Well tomorrow is judgement day for me, so I'll definitely let you know how I get on.
Hello again,
Good news is that the cam sensor has now been replaced and the error has gone. The car even when warmed up starts fine and so far touch wood has not stalled :).
However the bad news is that a new error is now showing a new error :( :-
17965 - Charge Pressure Control: Positive Deviation P1557 - 35-00 - -
(https://s15.postimg.org/dz1vwg95n/20160910_155930.jpg)
My car has been going into limp mode now and again, so this error IMO is related to this issue, but I don't know how to fix it, so any advice would be much appreciated.
The old sticky vanes! Go underneath and work the turbo accuator 10/15 times and then go for an Italian Tune up!!
Quote from: Mirez on September 10, 2016, 04:32:53 PM
The old sticky vanes! Go underneath and work the turbo accuator 10/15 times and then go for an Italian Tune up!!
Hello again Mirez....I don't have a clue what a turbo accuator looks like. Also the engine has a cover on it at the bottom. Also what's an italian tune up?
Can't beleive my luck...seems to be an endless list of problems. >:(
Quote from: fordnewbie on September 10, 2016, 04:38:41 PM
Hello again Mirez....I don't have a clue what a turbo accuator looks like. Also the engine has a cover on it at the bottom. Also what's an italian tune up?
Can't beleive my luck...seems to be an endless list of problems. >:(
Is there a video photo guide I can follow??
Here's a guide that shows what you are looking at.
https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/turbo-removal-115-pd-engine/
Can pop engine top cover off and get at it from up above as well just make sure engine is cold.
Italian tune up is basically warm engine up then go for a 15 minute drive at a steady speed in 3rd but keeping revs fairly high to get exhaust temp high. Then a few hard accelerations up to redline under load to blow that carbon out.
Having said that as fault appears to have developed since cam sensor change make sure no vac hoses have been pulled off. Particularly the one at vac res by sensor plug and the ones around brake res area.
Morning Johnny,
Thanks for the link, which I'll look at later. Just to let you know, this fault of car going into limp mode has been on-going since I've purchased the vehicle, although the error code has only appeared after changing the cam sensor.
That's strange it was going in to limp but not logging a code.
As mirez said classic signs of sticking vnt vanes so ecu cannot control the boost.
Best fix is described in link but it can be freed by hand when working the actuator,can also do it with vcds https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/how-to-excercise-turbo-vanes-using-vcdsvag-com/ Although doing via vcds can be hit and miss if vanes are really coked up. There is also the mr muscle way which I have done before. Google mr muscle turbo clean for info.
I can't see how you can perform that test using measuring blocks? as far as I know you can only operate the actuator using output tests, you can also operate the egr valve and shutter flap aswell amongst others that I cant remember of top of my head.
Measuring blocks won't do anything you are right, that just shows the info the ECU is using.
BUT, that how-to is using the Basic Settings function of VCDS not the MB, i suspect you need the full version but it should work as BS is used to initiate sensors and discover limits. CH11 will cycle the actuator from its minimum to maximum limits which will do the job providing its not too gummed up that vac pressure alone cant move it.
OK Mark thanks for that info, will try that method next time I get the laptop out.
I did it with mine on output tests I think it raises rpm to 1400 then actuator cycles from fully closed to fully open.
I've only got the old VAG software which is a trial version, so this exercise option is not possible :(
Need to try and manually exercise it when cold to get moving then give it a good blast. Failing that it is a strip down or me muscle job.
Quote from: johnnyroper on September 11, 2016, 12:33:29 PM
Need to try and manually exercise it when cold to get moving then give it a good blast. Failing that it is a strip down or me muscle job.
I'll give it a go, thanks, but the link you've provided is showing how to totally remove the turbo:-
1. Exactly where is this movable bit located?
2. What does it look like?
3. Do I need to use a wd40 or something similar to get it moving?
The link was to show you the area where you need to be looking.
The bit you need is the canister type thing with a rod coming out of it,where that connects to turbo is the bit you want to move,from up above look down back of engine it should just about be visible if top corner we and bulkhead extension are off. Try and push it down there should be some resistance but it should be free and move about 3/4 of an inch from stop position to fully pushed in.
No wd40 required as the sticky part is internal
Quote from: fordnewbie on September 11, 2016, 12:42:52 PM
I'll give it a go, thanks, but the link you've provided is showing how to totally remove the turbo:-
1. Exactly where is this movable bit located?
2. What does it look like?
3. Do I need to use a wd40 or something similar to get it moving?
I've just taken a photo of the engine....can it be seen from here?
(https://s11.postimg.org/kkw8ym8wj/20160911_124904.jpg)
Heres a link to a video I done with the turbo on the bench
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-8Kd7oDFTw
Here I'm using a spanner on the lever attached to the turbo vanes.
In situ you will struggle to get a spanner on the lever due to space available, you would need to raise car and remove undercover.
pulling the lever down to it's full travel it should return to the top under spring pressure but if it's really gummed up it's probably sticking half way.
I would be very surprised if you can reach it from the top of the engine as the inlet manifold is right in the way unless you have long gangly arms that can reach down the back of the engine and still be able to see what your doing.
Thanks chris. It seems like a difficult task, so I guess it's another trip to the garage.
Let's say I test the turbo vanes and it's getting stuck, then what next?
Likewise, if the turbo vanes aren't getting stuck and it's springing back fine, then what would I need to do then?
Lastly, could you kindly point to the location on my picture where this turbo & actuator is?
You can just about get arm down back and on to the actuator,also with hand down back you can just about see what you are doing if viewing from by brake res area. Prob won't get spanner on it but I managed to push it by hand when mine stuck.
If it moves freely then I think you need to be looking elsewhere like checking bac system is Good and n75 operates correctly.
On your picture you can see EGR valve behind to oil filler cap the actuator is slightly to the left of EGR down the back.
Quote from: johnnyroper on September 11, 2016, 04:05:06 PM
You can just about get arm down back and on to the actuator,also with hand down back you can just about see what you are doing if viewing from by brake res area. Prob won't get spanner on it but I managed to push it by hand when mine stuck.
If it moves freely then I think you need to be looking elsewhere like checking bac system is Good and n75 operates correctly.
On your picture you can see EGR valve behind to oil filler cap the actuator is slightly to the left of EGR down the back.
Thanks for your advice Johnny. I tried to get to the turbo actuator, but as the photo (taken left of the EGR) below shows, I can't see anything that resembles an actuator.
With bulkhead extension piece off and air box out look through from timing side and you will be able to just about see turbo. Locate the vac pipe on actuator to give you an idea where you need to be
Quote from: johnnyroper on September 11, 2016, 06:40:34 PM
With bulkhead extension piece off and air box out look through from timing side and you will be able to just about see turbo. Locate the vac pipe on actuator to give you an idea where you need to be
Ahh right I see. And all this time I've been trying to look for it behind the oil filler cap area ???;D. I'll be busy most of next week, but I'll give this a try and certainly let you know if I succeed in finding it.
Thanks again
It's not the sharpest of images and you'd have to take the engine undertray off to see/ access this but the actuator is the silver canister just right of centre in the below image, accessed from the rear of the engine block. The actuator rod passes out of the top of this canister and can be operated by hand (if it's not seized!) - on a cold engine!
[attachimg=1]
Thanks for the image mate. That's great. So the rod is the black curved fabric-type looking thing????
...Because I thought the rod looked more like this threaded one:-
(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/8y0AAOSwWnFV~x5r/s-l1600.jpg)
Also some good news regarding VCDS :D. I've managed to borrow a friend's laptop which has VCDS-LITE 1.2 (Full) installed on it, which he uses for his KKL 409.1 cable. Can I do any tests such as VC SCOPE or EGR or whatever you guys would recommend that would help you guys diagnose or even resolve this issue?
The black curved thing you refer to is the vacuum feed pipe into the actuator. The actuator rod isn't visible in the image I posted as it's coming out of the far (top) side of the canister. The rod is indeed the threaded piece with the nuts on the left of your image.
Go in to engine on vcds then select measure blocks, then group 11 and select basic settings. It should then raise your rpm to 1400 and cycle n75 which in turn should operate the vnt actuator its full amount of travel either way if it is free enough. On screen there will be the map readings displayed of what's happening if it's working ok they should be roughly the same as what VCDS says it should be achieving.
Once you have opened up the group 11 basic settings screen you will see what I am trying to explain.
Quote from: johnnyroper on September 12, 2016, 01:57:00 AM
Go in to engine on vcds then select measure blocks, then group 11 and select basic settings. It should then raise your rpm to 1400 and cycle n75 which in turn should operate the vnt actuator its full amount of travel either way if it is free enough. On screen there will be the map readings displayed of what's happening if it's working ok they should be roughly the same as what VCDS says it should be achieving.
Once you have opened up the group 11 basic settings screen you will see what I am trying to explain.
Hello mate, I've followed what you said. I've uploaded a youtube video to show you what is happening and hope I've done it right.
Please note that the video sound is cutting off every few seconds due to a faulty mobile:-
https://youtu.be/xny_8Fm5JUM
So what do you suggest is the issue and what should I do next?
That looks fine to me 999mbar 99% is normal 999mbar is atmospheric and 99% is ecu turning boost off.
1128mbar at 0.0% again is about normal 0.0 is ecu requesting boost and 1128 is about max it will make at 1400rpm unloaded.
It proves n75,vnt and vac are ok.
I would say you have either dodgy map at higher boost or clogged inlet to cause the over boost code and limp mode.
Are you able to log a group 11 test run in 3rd gear full throttle from 1200rpm-4000rpm on a flat road and graph it?
Details in ref library about logging and graphing.
And don't worry about beeping and glow light that's normal in basic settings
Quote from: johnnyroper on September 12, 2016, 03:10:26 PM
I would say you have either dodgy map at higher boost or clogged inlet to cause the over boost code and limp mode.
Are you able to log a group 11 test run in 3rd gear full throttle from 1200rpm-4000rpm on a flat road and graph it?
Details in ref library about logging and graphing.
And don't worry about beeping and glow light that's normal in basic settings
So just to clarify, you want me to drive in 3rd gear @ 1200-4000 revs and have vcds in group 11 basic settings? Or do you want to see vc-scope???
Yes log a run from 1200 rpm in 3rd with foot flat down up to 4000rpm.
The saved log then needs to be put in graph form to see what boost and duty cycle are like through the Rev range.
Quote from: johnnyroper on September 12, 2016, 04:46:41 PM
Yes log a run from 1200 rpm in 3rd with foot flat down up to 4000rpm.
The saved log then needs to be put in graph form to see what boost and duty cycle are like through the Rev range.
Hi mate,
I tried to do what you advised on two occasions, but each time, eventually the traffic would force me to slow down. However I think I got the info you required.
I've uploaded the .csv log files as I don't know how to convert these to charts in excel:-
http://www.filedropper.com/log-01-011-xxx-xxx
http://www.filedropper.com/log-01-012-xxx-xxx
Sorry I can't view the files as in my phone and no program to open them,I couldn't even convert to xls either as laptop is in pieces at the moment.
No worries buddy.
I've re-uploaded them to pastebin:-
LOG 11 - http://pastebin.com/iXGZrwmd
LOG 12 - http://pastebin.com/zWD9Yhes
Not sure if I've done the charts correctly using the data from LOG 11 & LOG 12. Please let me know what you make of it.
(https://s9.postimg.org/6gblo9xr3/LOG11_speci_ntak_eactual_intake.jpg)
(https://s9.postimg.org/g2564kowv/LOG12_spec_intake_actual_intake.jpg)
Was your foot flat down when you did the log?
Hard to make out on phone but the actual is higher than specified then duty hits 92% which is limp mode ideally duty needs to be around the 80% mark. The ecu has basically lost control of boost.
The basic settings you did earlier proved vnt etc operated but that log suggests only partial movement of the actuator.
You really need to check it has got full movement now before going any further.
I really need to redo this test on a motorway as my foot was not fully down due to traffic on the road and I had to slow down on several occasions. I'll try doing this test sometime tomorrow.
Btw, how do I check the actuator for full movement?
You need to physically look at it and try to move by hand.
With engine off actuator rod should be at its longest and when you start engine it should pull fully in.
Try and get a run logged in 3rd with foot buried from 1200rpm and then graph that run
Quote from: johnnyroper on September 13, 2016, 06:48:32 AM
You need to physically look at it and try to move by hand.
With engine off actuator rod should be at its longest and when you start engine it should pull fully in.
Try and get a run logged in 3rd with foot buried from 1200rpm and then graph that run
I don't think I can manually move it mate as it's difficult getting access to it.
Also sometimes the vehicle runs fine when I put my foot down, however on many occasions it goes into limp mode and takes so long in reaching 4000rpm, that I have to slow down due to traffic ahead.
I'll try on a motorway tonight if possible though.
It is difficult to get on to it but with bulkhead extension off it is just possible to get arm behind inlet manifold and push actuator down.
It has to over boost for a period of time before ecu puts in to limp,when mine was doing it sometimes it would seem ok it all depended how hard I was accelerating and for how long.
That's why the 3rd gear log from 1200 rpm to 4000rpm flat down is good as it shows how boost is building through while rev range. You do need a nice straight flat road that's clear of cars to do it accurately though.
Really sorry for the late reply. After a lot of difficulty (VCDS crashed) and numerous tries, I think I've got the info you required and did as you said :)
LOG 20 - http://pastebin.com/pGLSGrjD
LOG 21 - http://pastebin.com/tdsxry32
Let me breakdown exactly what each one is:-
LOG 20
Hit the motorway and started vcds log at around 1300rpm. Turbo did kick in, but I felt it lose it's power and fail at around the 2800-3200rpm.
LOG 21
As soon as I got off the motorway, I joined an A road with national speed limit. I didn't turn the car off (As this would temporarily reset the problem) and decided to do a 2nd log from around 1000rpm in 3rd gear. But it was very sluggish, hardly had any power or turbo kicking in and took a very long time to get to 3000rpm.
(https://s15.postimg.org/l2fylq457/LOG20_spec_intake_actual_intake.jpg)
(https://s15.postimg.org/onbu4y8or/LOG21_spec_intake_actual_intake.jpg)
I hope I've done this correctly.
Regards,
You can see low duty cycle and boost increasing as specified increases then actual spikes above specified this is normal and you can see duty cycle increasing as ecu is attempting to reduce boost by operating the vnt. However your boost is not falling with increasing duty like it should,the ecu gives it 3 seconds or so to reduce but when it does not you get limp mode.
At this point the next thing you really need to do is to physically check actuator movement. If the vnt is free through its full movement I would suspect map sensor is at fault or intake tract is restricted from build up of carbon
Also just to add 2570.4mbar is max the map can read so it may well have been even higher,with boost like that the engine/turbo would be totalled if limp mode did not kill the power.
Sorry don't know if asked already but did you have any limp mode before the garage looked at cam sensor?
Are you 100% certain all vac hoses are connected and not kinked? Also check the hose from vnt to by brake res make sure the hose is not kinked and the filter is not blocked. This hose vents the vac to atmosphere from n75 to control the vac at actuator.
Quote from: johnnyroper on September 15, 2016, 09:05:44 AM
Also just to add 2570.4mbar is max the map can read so it may well have been even higher,with boost like that the engine/turbo would be totalled if limp mode did not kill the power.
Sorry don't know if asked already but did you have any limp mode before the garage looked at cam sensor?
Are you 100% certain all vac hoses are connected and not kinked? Also check the hose from vnt to by brake res make sure the hose is not kinked and the filter is not blocked. This hose vents the vac to atmosphere from n75 to control the vac at actuator.
Hi Johnny,
The car going into limp mode was
definitely there even before the garage had a look at it, however the actual code/error only appeared on VCDS after the cam sensor was replaced.
Are there any photo/video guides to show me how to check the hoses and also the actuator? Also what is VNT?
Not that I am aware of its just a case of removing bulk head extension piece for easier access and then tracing pipes from N75 on bulkhead to actuator and the filter. And also getting arm down the back to push actuator.
No worries buddy. I won't be able to look into this for a short period due to other duties, but I'll try and find sometime this weekend if possible and let you know how I get on.