Drivers door lock/central locking issue (not wires in looms) 2003 1.9TDi Sharan

[Polonied]

Guys, this is confusing the hell out of me. Since buying the Sharan 6 months ago the central locking has had a mind of its own. Sometimes it worked on all doors, sometimes 3, 2 or just the drivers. I have checked the 4 door looms and the wires are all intact and in a remarkably good condition (Car only has 75,000 miles and IÃ,´m in Spain, so good climate and a very clean car all over). In the end I removed fuse 27 and then used only the key manually in the drivers door to unlock (remote still needs programming).

Another connected issue is the alarm goes off sometimes when I unlock and then open the drivers door. Or at times we park, turn off the car and open the doors to get out and alarm goes off. IÃ,´m guessing the system is not recognising the door lock(s)? (The small red light by the drivers window always flashes when locked and goes off when unlocked).

Fast forward to last month. The drivers window motor stopped working, so I bought another used motor from a breakers. It came with all the mechanisms, so I just did a straight swap. The window now works fine.

Last week I finally took the car to an auto electrician to look at the central locking. He said that the remote key is communicating ok with the doors (indicator light comes on when button pressed), but it needs reprogramming. But he said the issue is with the drivers door lock itself, so I need to replace this first.

Took car to another auto electrician more experienced with VWs. We put the 27 fuse back in and tested. Now no locks work at all with the central locking. He connected it to the Bosch diagnostics and he said that I need to change all 4 door locks at €150 each. But...when I told him that the central locking worked before I changed the window motor he immediately said I had put the wrong window motor in. I had to use a motor with exactly the same serial/model code? as the original - or at least it ends in the same letter. So he said I need to replace the window motor again and then change the drivers door lock.

Appreciate any input here. Are the window motors connected to the central locking? What is the correct code for the window motor if I am supposed to change it? Or is it just the drivers door lock? Long post, sorry!

[brianh]

Its more likely you have a faulty lock and thats causing the others to play up. The drivers one looks most likely for that. Easiest way to narrow it down is to unplug that lock (either the whole door at the pillar can be unplugged, just watch out that the socket in the pillar doesn't fall inside if you do that) or just the door lock motor itself (you need to remove the door card for that).

The other place that can cause some random electrical issues is the services 32 splice, located in the passenger side footwell near where the rear screen wash pipe usually likes to leak from (I think this is in the same place on a lHD car, so would be your drivers side). Details in the kb area at the top about that.

That said, you mention checking the doors, but you don't mention the boot wires. That is usally the worst offender for issues and will cause issues with the other doors (as you can unlock the car from the boot with the key when its working properly). If you haven't checked that yet, start with that first. That one is worst as the angle it opens to is greater than the other doors as well.

[brianh]

I also doubt the window has much if anything to do with it. The door locks can be used to global open/close the windows, but thats just switches in the door lock that do that.

[Chrispb]

Have to agree with Brian the drivers door is usually the culprit but the boot door also causes problems to central locking, alarm and lighting.

[Polonied]

Thanks Brian and Chris. Sorry, yeah the boot wires are fine, but IÃ,´ll double check it again.

The comment from the auto electrician that the window motor was affecting everything completely threw me. IÃ,´ll ignore him and try to identify which lock, but it does seems its the drivers door - Although I donÃ,´t see why the central locking doesnÃ,´t work at all now, at least it was intermittant before.

The services 32 splice IÃ,´ll take a look at too.

IÃ,´m thinking to just buy a used lock mechanism rather than taking the old one apart. Stupid question, is it just a simple swap out or there is some more configuration that is needed? Could it be a galaxy/alhambra one too.

Many Thanks again.

[brianh]

I suspect when I had similar, that the drivers lock motor had gone short circuit and was preventing any of the others working due to that. Again as you found it seemed intermittent. Way to tell if its that is unplug it really, best to do that before ordering a replacement to make sure you get the right door.

As long as you stick to the same version of the Sharan/Galaxy/Alhambara you should be fine as far as i know with any of them. So look for one off a 2000-2006. If you want to be really sure, there should be a number on the existing lock, look for one that matches that. No programming involved in those either, just plug and play hopefully.

I've never had any luck trying to take them apart to fix them, Its just too fiddly.

[Chrispb]

It would be a good idea to get a VCDS lead (about Ã,£10 on ebay) to help with faults with these cars.

[Chrispb]

Is there any difference using the key in the lock or using the buttons on the fob or using a different key.

[johnnyroper]

I would definitely double check number on latch before ordering one as for some reason I seem to recall the ford one used a different latch to the vw when I had to replace one. I could however be remembering that wrong as itââ,¬â,,¢s a good 5 years ago but defo worth a check first

[Polonied]

Because the weird alarm issue too it does feel like it is the drivers door lock at fault, but IÃ,´ll check your other suggestions first (boot wires again & service 32). After that I will disconnect the drivers door lock, probably from the inside of the door as the gaiters are a PITA.

I only have one key and it is not programmed for remote locking. So once I disconnect the door lock, I will have to test by locking the boot lock I suppose, or pushing the 3 handles in from the inside. I guess I could try reprogramming the key too before I disconnect, but I recall it didnÃ,´t work last time I tried.

IÃ,´m stuck in quarantine away from home at the moment, so canÃ,´t test your suggstions just yet. IÃ,´ve an Ancel OBD II scanner now to play with. Thanks everyone, IÃ,´ll update when I get back home.