Clutch change now wont select

[Jakehands]

Right changed the clutch and slave on my 1.9tdi mk2 galaxy 130ps, got it all back in and went to test the gears, have a odd whine when between pressed and released clutch also will only select 2nd 4th and 6th, if i push and hold first it will go but tries to kick back out of gear if i loosen the push, i have replaced geabox oil but know it needs a tad more, clutch is bled fine (was jammed to the floor before) i did undo a bolt just down from the selector as i thought it was a fill point (should of looked first) but that was when the gearbox was off and all selector cables removed and ensured it was still in neutral the whole time the box was out, Any ideas? Thanks

[SirDavidAlhambra]

Oh man, this one sounds like an absolute nightmare. Iââ,¬â,,¢d have no idea where to start with that

[Jakehands]

Yeah is a nightmare first time doing a clutch aswell with limited lifting tools (scissor jacks came in handy) i think i may have offset the cables slightly as it feels more in the gear stick than the box, if you change from the box you can here it click into gear

[Jakehands]

Right have it down to the cables, had a mess around and now have reverse 3rd 4th and 5th where as yesterday only had 2nd 4th and 6th so abit more messing i think ill have it

[johnnyroper]

If you pop cables off the box can you select gears ok by moving linkage on the box?
I canââ,¬â,,¢t see how just having box off can cause cables to suddenly not operate correctly unless you have altered the adjustment?

[Jakehands]

Yeah can select fine with them off, the plastic bit came off the left cable so re attatched but when it was off the box, bought a 5mm drill bit to hold the gear stick in "home" mode (used a tent peg earlier but bent) also has a home plastic bolt on the box aswell so will just have another go tommorow, just not much room with cables and pipes there

[johnnyroper]

Sounds like it is out of adjustment then,hopefully locking stick and box in the N position and adjusting cable will have it all sorted.

[Jakehands]

Got it all working all gears selected, drove road the close and clutch to the floor again, this was the state of the old one before change swapped out all for new (three piece) have tried bleeding today as i was stuck in the road, tried several methods, nothing helped, no loss of fluid anywhere (illuminous green)

[Jakehands]

All this because of a damn speed bump

[KingyMAK]

For the clutch to the floor problem:
Is the bleeder valve closed?
Master cylinder past itââ,¬â,,¢s best/blew seal?
Slave cylinder blew seal if you didnââ,¬â,,¢t pre/fill it/pump fluid through?

[johnnyroper]

When you tried bleeding did it pump fluid out?

Try clamping the flexi pipe aswell while pedal is up and see if any resistance

[Jakehands]

Valve is closed tight, master seems fine no fluid loss, hopefully not the brand new slave as thatll be a ball ache to take back out, will try to clamp the pipe see if that helps, i get resistence if i bled the system the opposite way with a tube pre filled to the bleed valve with fluid. Byt does go after a few pumps but doesnt loose any fluid

[Jakehands]

Also yes fluid came out in the bleeding process

[Jakehands]

LHM will this cause issues? Just had someone ask what fluid i refilled, lhm was what euro parts suggested to use, did i screw up bad or just a little? Any advice to fully drain the brake and clutch ?

[johnnyroper]

LHM fluid in the clutch!!!!! That is not correct it is standard brake fluid it should have as itââ,¬â,,¢s also same fluid as the brakes. You need to get that stuff out and bleed clutch and brakes to get rid of it all. Euro car parts are definitely not correct in telling you that.

[Jakehands]

Thought as much ordered 5 litres of dot 4, any tips for a full bleed? The stuff ive put in is bright green

[johnnyroper]

Try and suck as much as possible from resavoir with a pella/syringe fill with dot 4 then start at furthest whee from master cylinder and keep pumping until fresh fluid comes out. Keep an eye on the fluid level while doing this.

If you are doing on your own get yourself a single person bleed hose. I have just done my car with one ordered from amazon for Ã,£5 worked a treat.

Get brakes sorted first with clear fluid from all wheels then do the clutch.

Once all sorted get yourself down euro car parts and complain as they have compromised your safety in my opinion recommending the incorrect stuff.

[Jakehands]

Okay thank you, ive still got some pipe to suck the fluid out with, ive got a breaker bar to hold the pedals in place when bleeding lol, fits nicely between seat and pedals, hopefully this hasnt killed my slave cylinder as its such a faff to take off that gearbox, will update when finished lol,
Will be complaining especially now i have to spend Ã,£20 for 5 litres of dot4

[brianh]

LHM fluid would be for a Citroën, see below link just in case ECP say otherwise, You might get away with it if you get it out of the system quickly.

https://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/lhm-plus-suspension-fluid.html

Or better still

https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/auxiliary-fluids/specialist-fluids/?522776092&0&cc5_871

"TRIPLE QX LHM Fluid 1 Litre
Triple Qx LHM Fluid is blended with the highest quality base stocks and advance additive technology to provide optimum performance for the vehicle. Best for applications in brake systems and hydraulic controlled clutches in a number of Citroen cars (those which circuit is green painted). Has an extremely high and stable viscosity index with strong foam-inhibiting properties.

    Citro?n
    Caution: The fluid must only be used for vehicles that are designed for mineral oil brake fluid. Do not mix with synthetic base fluids or vegitable oil base fluids"

If you've got access to a printer, I'd suggest you print the second link out and take it into them.

[Jakehands]

Ive already complained, as ive bought the clutch kit and slave (worked out cheaper than full kit) they will accept liability for any damage, shame they wont pay my time if any has gone tho

[johnnyroper]

Hopefully a full drain down and bleed will sort it out, also hope ECP cover cost of any other replacement items if they are damaged aswell and not just the parts they originally supplied. Master cylinders/other brake components etc.
Personally if stuff is damaged I would be pushing for them to cover cost of a garage to resolve it.

[SirDavidAlhambra]

How can you do a clutch change yourself but not even know what fluid to use lol

[Jakehands]

Never done one with a hydralic slave cyclinder lol just went on reccomended fluid as ECP have never let me down till now

[brianh]

Most of the time they get it right, but there are occasional errors - I can remember going to get a wheel bearing for the Discovery, which as soon as I saw the box I could tell wasn't right, as the box was smaller than the bearing I'd removed was!.

[Jakehands]

Lmao ive bled the clutch and brakes today seems fine but get you head around this, the only way it would hold any pressure was by syringe back bleeding (pumped clutch left pedal up opened valve and force fed fluid into it) did this several times and it seems fine, it wasnt taking any fluid from the resivour bleeding the traditional way, but back feeding filled the resivour :S no leak from any where not the resivour the master or any dripping from the slave area :S very confused but is working atm (uninsured as had to change to another car so not took on a proper run yet) any ideas?

[SirDavidAlhambra]

Just make sure itââ,¬â,,¢s all safe to drive, that must be your number 1 concern please

[Jakehands]

Yeah ive drove it up and down the road seems alright have breakdown anyway and 2 cars. Just cant get my head around why it wont bleed normally

[johnnyroper]

Now you have some fluid in system and master is working will it bleed properly now? Could have just been a pocket of air getting compressed when you tried it before.

[Jakehands]

I tried a few times to bleed it but the pedal just fell back to the floor when i did :S i even took the pipe back off the slave to listen to the pipe as it was pumped and it would just squelch (loads of air minimul fluid) asif there was a block somewhere

[johnnyroper]

Fell to floor when bleeding? If so thatââ,¬â,,¢s how mine was as the return is part of the slave. Had to lift pedal back up between pumps.

[Jakehands]

Yeah if i lift and fill it holds but as soon as i try to bleed to take off slack it drops again

[johnnyroper]

It will hit the deck when bleeding and stay there, so yours sounds normal to me so ping as air bled out and pedal is form and positive once nipple closed and pedal is pulled back up

[Jakehands]

Yeah it hits the deck constantly tho was trying to bleed it for around an hour and still had the same response, asif it wasnt taking flyid from the resoviour

[brianh]

Sounds to me like your master cylinder has died - If it was the slave, you'd expect to at least get it leaking as you push fluid down to it as it would have to go somewhere. Same if it was down to a leaky hose - the fluid would be going down and ending up somewhere else.

Only other possibility i can think of would be a blockage in the feed between the reservoir and the master cylinder - a piece of pipe thats breaking up could cause that, but its not very likely all the same.

[Jakehands]

It is wierd as this wasnt an issue before hand, fluid does come out when its pumped, may have to vaccum bleed to see if that fixes it

[brianh]

If there is something wrong with the seal inside that does the work, it may be allowing fluid back up into the reservoir as soon as any resistance is there against it. A flipped seal or a split in it could be the cause of that. If you can get to the outlet of it, and have a chunk of spare brake pipe available with a suitable fitting, then you might be able to see if you can test that, Or possibly the same with the old slave if you still have it? (don't install it just connect it, stick something around it to prevent it firing the cylinder out and see if you can get that to bleed sucessfully).

[johnnyroper]

Sorry I am confused as to the problem.

When bleeding pedal drops to floor, but other than that clutch works fine and returns to normal position when driving etc?

[Jakehands]

When i was back bleeding the clutch i used the syringe with the resivour cap off , when i open the valve and got my friend to pump the pedal (trying to figure out what was going on) it held pressure against the syringe

[Jakehands]

Sorry I am confused as to the problem.

When bleeding pedal drops to floor, but other than that clutch works fine and returns to normal position when driving etc?

Yes when bleeding to get air out, I.E push clutch to floor hold it open valve close it release pedal. The pedal never got any resistance to it

[Jakehands]

Got it booked in thursday for a vaccum bleed hopefully it sorts it if not will go down master route

[KingyMAK]

Most likely master cylinder seals; too much pressure will blow them.
If youââ,¬â,,¢ve bled it with too much force/psi/etc., the seal may of blew and the fluid is just bypassing the seals hence why it stays down, but with pressure back against it with a syringe, itââ,¬â,,¢ll not have as much room to leak back through, hence why it tends to seem fine, then it doesnââ,¬â,,¢t when you need it!

[Jakehands]

Master was dead it held upto 20bar vaccum pressure, switched it out Ã,£43 if you know someone with trade at euro was finding them for Ã,£60 upwards. All seems great now fluid bled perfectly. Just gotto give it a good run and make sure all is good

[Jakehands]

Thought i would show the gone seal on master. Cut my old one up, thos is the base seal or the push rod. Never use LHM lol

[brianh]

Least you know it was definitely knackered, not sure that would have been down to the LHM personally, though it won't have helped (I'd have expected the LHM to cause a problem after being in there longer than a few days, though that may not be the case).