Elec advice please , heater/central locking/clock /a'c

[Molelike]

Firstly hi to all ,
I have just brought a bargain Galaxy , it was a bargain because it has gremlins , engine is faultless and only 76k ! , it's a mk2 '54' 2.3 16v Zetec however my symptoms are as follows
No power to anologue clock
No power to a/c controls
No power to heat selector (stuck on cold )
Now power to blower direction
Heater fan works fine
No power to dash lights on this panel either

I have searched google for clues and have so far :
Checked all fuses with multimeter ( all good )
Checked wires inside tailgate grommet ( all appear perfect )
All tailgate lights are ok
Checked wires in drivers door grommet and found the brown and the red/yellow to have cracked insulation but both feel very strong and have no signs of damaged copper so I taped them to avoid shorts
( made no change )
I have had to disconnect the drivers window motor due to a steel cable tangle but the motor did run fine before disconnecting
If I lock car with fob all except drivers door and fuel flap lock/unlock
Are these faults related ?
What fuse does the drivers door and fuel flap c/l go through
Is there a way I can rob power from fuse ?? To fuse ?? To at least get the heater working ?
Any advice welcome
Thank you for reading

[Chrispb]

Hi Tony 

Can I ask you first does the trip mileage counter reset to zero after each trip (once engine is stopped and restarted) or does it stay?

Have you checked for voltage at the clock and heater controls?

Disconnecting the battery has been said to reset the heater controls (manual control panel) but I have not experienced this. But worth a try.

Does all doors lock/unlock using key in drivers door.

See how you get on.

[Molelike]

Thanks for your reply
Yes trip meter does reset each journey by itself
Have not tested voltage at rear of clock yet but will do
If you lock with key in drivers door the door will manually lock fine but does not activate the central lock motor or lock fuel flap or any other door

[johnnyroper]

Have a look in ref library there is a post about a wiring splice on nearside under the sill trim. Think itââ,¬â,,¢s services from fuse 32 or something like that

[Molelike]

I shall investigate
Cheers

[brianh]

Its this you want (referred to above)
https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-common-faults-and-problems/splice-joint-32/msg7309/#msg7309

[Chrispb]

So recheck fuse 32 as this one does the clock and a whole list of other things

Splice joint 32 is a group of power feed wires that suffer high resistance/breakage that's a result the area becoming very wet due to disconnected rear washer pipe in close vicinity, see link below for more info.


https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-common-faults-and-problems/splice-joint-32/msg7309/#msg7309/

[Molelike]

Thank you Chris and Brian you both point me to the same link which fills me with hope , Chris mentioned the trip meter so followed links to that which also point to this joint so I feel very confident about fixing it and very excited at the thought of a working heater !
The post showing the splice is brilliant thanks for that it shows al I need to know
Will Hopefully have  time to give it a good poke tomorrow and will let you all know my findings 
Many thanks 

[Molelike]

Gremlin update
Had a good dig for splice 32 but cannot find it ?
Got side panel off and loom is dry and wrapped in style tape
Removed as much as I can get to and all wires look happy
But no splice ( I will try to attach a pic )
Have also pulled fuse 32 and it has blown , but I have no spare at this time
Do I need to dig deeper into the loom or just replace fuse and go from there

[Molelike]

Pics done just now so a bit dark

[Molelike]

Pic 2

[Molelike]

2nd try at that !

[brianh]

I think you will find its the end of those red and white cables you show there? Others have reported finding it to be little more than wires twisted together, so it can suffer if it gets damp

[johnnyroper]

As above it will be at the end of the red and white cables where they all join.
Not heard of fuse blowing from poor joint though,so worth popping a new one on and see what happens.

[Molelike]

Could not wait to find correct fuse so borrowed a10a from a spare stereo
So far so good ! Everything works again , well happy , but still not located the prob ,
Had a thought , as I previously tested all fuses in situ using a meter across the fuse tops is it possible that I could have still got a continuity reading across the loom on fuse 32 ? So it could have been blown all along ??

And secondly why does my analogue clock go backwards? No joke I set it to 12 went for a test drive with my toasty heater and got back at 11:30 ?

[Chrispb]

If you want to check the splice joint you'll need to take off a bit more covering.

The running backwards is common, easily replaced.

[Molelike]

Thanks for your replies , I shall investigate further tomorrow and report back

The clock amazed me , though some idiot may have swapped polarity for a laugh !

[johnnyroper]

A ford KA clock fits in these perfectly.

If you checked across the fuse when it was blown you would not have got continuity through the loom,so when you checked it you were either mistaken or the fuse wasnââ,¬â,,¢t blown at the time.

[Molelike]

You are spot on mate
Just pulled 32 out again and double checked and yes I got continuity across loom (32 socket) so I missed the blown fuse at the very start
However I now know all my wires are good and what to do with my clock plus I now know not to test a fuse without removing it!

Thank you everyone for giving me the confidence to attack my gremlin
Very happy with the end result , all buttons working inc c/l just the window to tackle next but thatââ,¬â,,¢s another post 

[Chrispb]

 

[brianh]

If your lucky the clock may have caused the fuse to blow. The main reason for swapping it for the Ka one is the Ka one is white and can be seen much easier than the original one.

[johnnyroper]

You are spot on mate
Just pulled 32 out again and double checked and yes I got continuity across loom (32 socket) so I missed the blown fuse at the very start
However I now know all my wires are good and what to do with my clock plus I now know not to test a fuse without removing it!

Thank you everyone for giving me the confidence to attack my gremlin
Very happy with the end result , all buttons working inc c/l just the window to tackle next but thatââ,¬â,,¢s another post 

So with fuse out you get continuity across the 2 pins in fuse holder? What resistance reading are you getting? As that does not sound right if there is continuity between the 2 then there would be no need for the fuse as voltage would be passing from the fuse input to the output🤷‍♂️