rattling..??

[bigBri]

this morning the Mrs went to do school run, she started car and it was rattling, I don't know how to describe it but the vibration was evident through body work ect so quite bad, I have very little clue but a rough guess is fuel, I've been having issues with the gauge, could this be related

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[brianh]

I'd try a new fuel filter if it hasn't had one recently, but would suspect if your seeing odd things happen with the gauge that you have a wiring issue to the tank (and that may effect both the gauge and the in tank pump). Being an auto it might be worth confirming its an engine issue - how does it behave in neutral? Does it get worse as revs increase?

[bigBri]

Bri, it's a hard one to describe but it gave me quite the shock that I turned it straight off, it happened to her this morning, I've had a friend suggest glow plugs, as this has happened both times in the morning, lol crazy car

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[Chrispb]

No intank pump on the MK1 diesels

Noises um need a bit more to go on, something as simple as a heat shield/exhaust rattle or mechanical fault, auxiliary drive train or internal engine noise.
Really guessing here. 

[bigBri]

I've got a video which isn't best quality but the noise occurs on the first turn of key, like noise coming from behind dash.. grrrr when i can work how to transfer video to my phone lol

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[bigBri]

it's not very clear the sound I heard it when held phone to ear [emoji23]http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5b50c2a24712b/VID-20180719-WA0000.mp4

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[brianh]

Its something on the aux belt causing the problem I'd say - you have a battery light on, no rev counter and thats just what i can see from the video.

Best guess (and hopefully an easy one) would be the tensioner or idler pulley. Or the alternator (or at least its pulley if its the clutch type) is somehow causing the problem.

Have a look under the bonnet at whats going on round the belt area?

[johnnyroper]

As above it certainly sounds like drive belt area,best bet is whip the belt off and have a listen without the belt on. Also shift engine down and have a feel of the pulleys etc for play/roughness when turning

[bigBri]

when I changed the water pump, i changed the belt as my marks made rubbed off so I stuck a new one on lol

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[brianh]

Well theres something wrong with your aux belt or the alternator - only you can see it so you need to take a look whats going on there. You can see that from the bits of the dashboard in the video, rev counter and battery light on to me suggests either the alternator isn't being driven, or its failed (afaik the rev counter on the diesels is driven from the alternator?) If you've have a tensioner fail it will likely have caused the pulley to melt and end up causing the belt to come off. Not sure what you mean by markings as theres no timing involved on that belt, just correct routing.

With the fuel gauge issues whats happening? Theres some damping of the gauge on the mk1 which can be a bit odd if the fuel level is below 1/4 and your parked on a slope, so you end up with it showing much less if the angle is wrong when you start it (facing downhill i think its worst if I remember rightly) and the damping will cause it to stay like that for a while. So it might show nearly empty even with 1/4 of a tank from what i found. more noticeable for me as my mk1 was on gas, so didn't use much petrol at all, hence level stayed roughly the same unless gas ran out.  If its doing that then nothing is actually wrong with it.

[bigBri]

the fuel gauge is giving me warnings of low fuel, I'll say put 20 in and it shows half a tank, sometimes the fuel light comes on and the guage will then rise and the light goes off, I'll have a look at the alternator tomorrow, the car been not used all weekend so if I'm gonna get that noise then it should be tomorrow, crazy that you can turn ignition back to off a couple of times the noise goes.
totally off subject but my over heat problem hasn't been a problem for all the time we had the hot weather even, even taking car down motorway with all family in (armed with water, lots just in case ha ha)

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[bigBri]

at first I thought perhaps tank went too low and I sucked up a bit of shite and blocked a jet

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[brianh]

Not very likely to do so, the pickup in the tank sits in a sump at the bottom of the tank anyway (if you take the cover off the top you will see it sits inside a bump inside the tank at the lowest point) so it is unlikely to end up with much there. There should be some sort of strainer there anyway to prevent it getting sucked up, and if it did then the fuel filter should catch it anyway.

That said, its not unknown on some cars for the cardboard or foil cap from the top of the fuel additive bottles to end up in the tank by mistake and cause issues when it gets sucked onto the pickup, though from what I've seen on the petrol galaxy I don't think that could happen, Don't think the diesel tank design is much different besides the type of pump or pickup in the tank depending on type.

[bigBri]

You guys are gifted.. lol the noise hasn't come back but whilst bleeding water system (in the small hope a air bubble or 2) looked down at auxiliary belt and looks like rattle from tensioner arm, will be replacing soon. Thanks, lol you knew just by noise brilliant

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[brianh]

I would wonder if thats the case if its driving the water pump effectively. If it isn't that might explain your overheating? (Hard to tell when you have the engine running under load/moving and they don't always screech in that situation.

I've had a couple of tensioners sieze up on the petrol ones, Usually drowning them in GT85 or similar and exercising them with the belt off is enough to make them work again. It may be just the pulley at fault, if there is play there or it feels rough when turned by hand then I'd give that a try first as the pulley is much cheaper than the whole unit.

[johnnyroper]

Isnââ,¬â,,¢t the water pump driven off cambelt rather than aux belt on the diesels? Certainly was on my AUY lump

[brianh]

Isnââ,¬â,,¢t the water pump driven off cambelt rather than aux belt on the diesels? Certainly was on my AUY lump

Does appear thats the case checking Microcat. I've not got involved much with the diesel variants to say for sure though. What i was also going to say on the other post, is it might be worth bleeding the aux heater circuit if your still struggling with possible airlocks (if yours has a run on pump, the connections on/around that worked for me to do that after i had to change one of the other hoses round there). Particularly if someone has tried "fixing" it with Radweld or similar.

[bigBri]

When I did the water pump the auxiliary belt had teeth to drive the water pump, I'm going with air lock and tensioner on Monday. My old man had conversation about, why does a ribbed belt get used and all pulleys are flat surfaces, he's a engineer and said, all years of engineering never seen ribbed belt used on flat surface, why can't they have teeth.. bloody ford [emoji23]

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[bigBri]

Yeah I'm going to ask my mate to drain it from back if possible and get as much as this rusty crap out, flush and back flush rad  and all pipe work, look at tensioner and pulleys, see if that not driving water pump fast enough to keep up and fill her with coolant and anti freeze and do a good bleed and hopefully I'm done over heating.. fingers crossed

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[bigBri]

The engine only has 57k on clock, a strange one MOT at 107k then next MOT only 7k..

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[brianh]

If its full of rusty crap its liklely its radweld you can see. Flushing with the hose might be enough, but I would wonder if your radiator is blocked up (it may also start leaking if flushed, more likely if you use a flushing agent which I wouldn't recommend!)

The Mk1 I had someone had used radweld to try and repair a leaking matrix and radiator - I ended up replacing both after flushing with the hose previously - the hose did help as eventually the water running through came out clear, but a lot of rubbish and rusty water came out too. Heater worked better for a while after that, but started getting more obvious that was leaking when the screen misted up.