Knocking/Ticking From Near side Wheel

[Phillip Hill]

I've got a ticking / knocking sound coming from the front passenger side wheel. If I turn on full lock it's fine - I've had a bad cv joint before and the full lock test made it pretty obvious that the cv joint was at fault. On full lock I get no knocking in either direction. If I'm on a dual carriage way doing about 40-50 going straight it's barley there, if at all, but if the road bends to the left and so I turn slightly left then it starts ticking/knocking. It's rhythmical and follows the speed of the wheels. I feel like I can also feel it vibrating through the floor. Turning slightly right I don't feel it at all.

Does this sound like anything anyone has had before? I do have some knocking coming from the suspension, which I'm hoping is only drop links, which I'm doing this weekend. I can't see how it could be suspension related though. It doesn't sound like it's grinding like a wheel bearing. Can anyone offer any advice on what to look for / start changing ? I'm driving to Spain in a couple of weeks and I'm a bit concerned!

[marcushamblin1976]

If it follows a rhythmic pattern i would be looking at wheel bearings . I know you dont think it's wheel bearings but if you turn it slightly right its gone would indicate to me its the passenger front wheel bearing.  Another thing it could be is the osf inner shaft bearing.  You could jack it up and spin the wheels and see if you can find it.  The way i test them though is both front wheels of the ground.  Get someone to drive it upto 60 mph and then dip the clutch and shut off the engine.  And find the noise with your ears.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[Phillip Hill]

Thank you for getting back to me so quickly. I'm a little be scared to be honest of testing it the way you would lol I know this is ha "how long is a piece of string" question... but how quickly can these things escalate?

[marcushamblin1976]

Your going to Spain in it? Im guessing 2000 mile round trip? A noisy bearing doing 40 miles a day might last 4000 miles. But yours is a almost continuous journey.  Its probably best to get it checked out asap.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[Phillip Hill]

I will get it checked out. I've just had the timing belt/water pump done. I've got a seized rear caliper, which has worn the pads and knackered the disc (and after looking tonight the seized one is getting hot (but I've had much worse when a caliper has seized before on another car) but the other side was also warm after a short run up the motor way :/. I've got suspension knocking and now a possible failed bearing. OMFG lol it all seems to have come at once and the holiday is booked and paid for... and I go in 12 days... I'm not quite panicking... bit I'm close!

I'll do the caliper, discs and pads both sides then get the bearing checked out.

Yeah 2000 mile round drip.

Ã,£450 on a hire car is looking like it might help me sleep at night. (a 7 seater is required for as I'm travelling with 3 kids!)

[johnnyroper]

I would be checking the drive shaft out as a wheel bearing would cause a humming rather than ticking/knocking in my opinion.
A wheel bearing failing would certainly give an indication of failure at 50-60 on dual carriageway.

[Phillip Hill]

Over the past 4 years it's had the intermediate and both drive shafts changed. When I get it on stands tomorrow, is there an obvious test for the drive shafts I can do other, than spinning the wheels and listening? The problem is that it doesn't seem there at low speeds.

Drive shafts I can have a go at, wheel bearing I don't fancy!

[johnnyroper]

All you can really do is check for excessive play in the joints,I cannot see it being the bearing with a clicking noise and intermittent,when bearings are knackered they make noise all the time.
These cars seem to get through drive shafts

To do bearing it would need pressing out and back in so a garage job.

[Phillip Hill]

Thanks guys, it's being looked at on Wednesday, so I'll let you know the verdict.

[Phillip Hill]

Well it's been in the garage today. First they thought it might be the top mount, then they changed their mind. I took somebody out to point out what it was. They had it back then said they think it's a flat spot on the new tire. Then they changed the tire. Then they changed it back and said it was a buckled wheel. I've changed the wheel from front to back and although the steering wheel is smoother at 70ish there's definitely still a vibration more pronounced at 50ish when I'm going round a left bend. I can feel it under my feet. They have said it's definitely not a wheel bearing. But then they said it was a buckled wheel. I would think swapping front to back would change the behavior wouldn't it?

So could it be the inner CV joint still? I can live with it. But is it dangerous? If it is a inner cv joint is something likely to snap or something worse over the next 2000 miles when I drive to Spain and back. Safety and making it there and back is the main thing. A rhythmical vibration on left bends I can live with. Again, any advice appreciated. It's really hard to know what to do - not sure if I'm just stressing over something minor that isn't going to me an issue for the trip. On things like this I'd normally leave it until it got worse and more obvious. Could it still be a buckled wheel even though I've swapped front to back? ffs

[Phillip Hill]

Another question, as it was mentioned by somebody. The osf inner shaft bearing - is this part of the intermediate driveshaft? The intermediate driveshaft is a fairly cheap and easy change. Could that be worth doing?