Front end vibration after driveshaft/ suspension change

[Ben g mon]

Morning,
Mk2 115 tdi Zetec 2003 galaxy
After changing both front springs, front and rear shocks (all with KYB parts) top mounts and cups and roller bearings (gen ford parts) plus both driveshafts (both j and r parts due to cv joint wear)

I now have a vibration shortly after the clutch is raised and driving begins feels like side to side shaking that stops after speed increases and isn't happening all the time pulling away.

Everything was torqued up, new bolts used where needed and a hunter wheel alignment carried out. No other issues where raised at January mot other than front top mount slight play so these where all changed by me as I thought the shocks where shot anyway.

What should I be looking for before I do anything else?

Front tyres are due to changed in a few months as we don't do huge mileage (prob around 10k tops a year) pressures are always set to loaded as the car is near always fully loaded...

Thanks for looking....

[Ben g mon]

Oh and the car had a DMF and clutch fitted when I bought the car by the garage I bought it from last year.

Didn't have any vibration problems before other than a clunk going into first gear which I thought was the driveshaft. Intermediate shaft has not been changed.

New driveshafts have 3 year warranty is there a bedding in time/ mileage or anything?

[insanitybeard]

I've read a few tales of vibration caused by fitting J&R driveshafts although I thought that was after they had been fitted and run for a while, not from new though I may be wrong. My most recent 'wobble on the front end' was down to tyre wear but if it's only become apparent since you did the work it probably isn't that in your case.

Is it only under load that the vibration is apparent- does it go if you disengage the clutch?

[Ben g mon]

After driving it today, it's under load and most apparent when the steering wheel is turned enough for mini roundabouts..
Can be felt through the pedals slightly but mostly feels like the whole car shakes.
Even after wheel alignment it's pulling to the left quickly when steering wheel briefly released. The most worn tyre is front right (only in the centre edges are good)

[johnnyroper]

A worn tyre just in centre is not gonna help with steering and vibration issues. Have you over inflated the tyre?

I would get new boots fitted and see how it goes before doing anything else

[insanitybeard]

If your back tyres are in half decent condition you could try swapping them to the front as a first step and see if it makes any difference.

[daddyfixit]

I would be checking that there isn't an egg in one of the front tyres; twisted & mis-shaped tyres will wobble car side to side.

jack car up 1 wheel at a time , spin it by hand and look for tyre mis-shape

[Ben g mon]

UPDATE...;
So after swapping wheels round and 900 miles the vibration is still there!
It's that bad a sat nav won't stay on the windscreen and i suspect it shook loose the low pressure a/c pipe join on the chassis leg off!!!!

I only changed the LP pipe towards the end of last summer (Maybe?)

So I've now got to reattach pipe when vibe issue stops and regas the a/c which was perfectly fine before....

Rang J&R up about this and they said get a garage to inspect/ change the intermediate shaft parts etc and if it persists the driveshafts would be exchanged on a same day basis.....I'm feeling a bit fobbed off by them and as soon as i explained vibes were not  there even with a worn out outer cv joint hence my call regarding part quality then asked for a refund that was their response.

I'm not buying a j&r intermediate shaft was my gut reaction


So can anyone recommend a decent make of intermediate shaft and gubbins (stub axle etc) as the age of this is unknown and the cars near 134k..... is Meyel any good at Ã,£100 (off eBay) for everything for example? I don't want to fixing this every month...

Cheers in advance

[Kristaps Baltais]

I would suggest http://www.motomax.pl/en/home-page/ , seems better build  and with good dust and sand protection. It has a longer splines, and should hold a lot longer.

[niall]

Motomax = Good

J&R = shite

I replaced driveshaft with a j&R one...vibration was worse!!! The outer cv was super tight and rough..could feel metal to metal grinding. I had bought 2 for around €70!!! Ended up just using the boots and bands from them....expensive boots!

Try REXBO for replacements. Definitely a bit pricier but good brand names there.

N.

[Mirez]

Completely concur, the J&R ones are truly abysmal on the Galaxy!

[Ben g mon]

Thanks for the replys....
Due to a lack of funds I went for what I thought was the best brand for the money I had which was Meyel Germany... kit was very good and fitted everything bar the oil seal (Ã,£100 all in all).

Nothing has improved, vibration starts at 1200 to 2000 rpm when pulling away

I've yet to speak to j and r about the vibration issue since changing the intermediate shaft and stub axle (unknown age so I classed it as preventative maintenance)

Before I call them is there anything I can use in my favour for a refund or just go for a straight exchange and hope for a good pair of driveshafts this time. I know my time spent fitting the stuff won't be compensated but it's the principal that I've paid money for goods thst are worse than worn out driveshafts I removed.

[insanitybeard]

What have you actually replaced? The vibration usually isn't related to the intermediate driveshaft or stub shaft but the CV joints on the outer shafts- and usually the inner CV joints at that.

If you don't want to deal with or fit J&R parts any further then personally I'd take the route of telling them that you've tried another manufacturer's driveshaft (or whatever has been fitted) and the vibration is gone, therefore you've lost confidence in their products as they're not up to the job and you want a refund.

[Ben g mon]

Parts replaced;

Both complete driveshafts and hub bolt (j and r)
Intermediate shaft, bearing and gearbox sub (Meyel Germany)

Rubber strut Top mounts, strut cups, roller bearings (gen ford)
Front springs and front shocks (KYB)
Rear shocks (KYB) with ford springs already on car

Car had new clutch and DMF fitted before I bought it.
Car had hunter wheel alignment after all the above (bar intermediate shaft parts) where fitted.

[Mirez]

I spent a LOT of money diagnosing a very similar sounding wobble on a previous Galaxy. As with you the problem arrived after changing the driveshafts and I went through 4 sets (2x JR and an ebay unknown) before I bought gen ford one and the problem went away. With this car when a slight wobble began, Motomax sent me a set of their there revised inner CVs to try and after fitting them this one has been excellent. Im actually still using those some 80k on with no sign of slop at all
The inner CV tripod is the weak link, and any play there is massively amplified at the wheel so if you didnt have the issue prior to your work then I would get those shafts replaced again, or if you still have them, revert back to the originals. Where in the SW are you? I have a known good shaft you are welcome to try to help diagnose if you need it.

[Ben g mon]

I'm in Newton Abbot,  Devon.

Getting very varied prices from everywhere!

Im not totally sure but cevam parts (French made, but website and burb didn't look out of place) look promising at Ã,£116.90 each, then going to OE (on most car brands anyway) SKF is more (unsurprising) at Ã,£161.89 each

I know a pretty goods parts guy at local motor factors so I'll see what he recommends... how much where the motor max driveshafts btw?

[Ben g mon]

The vibration has gone!

After new front tyres (Only budget tyres but needs must), a recommended driveshaft brand from motor factors ol boy (2 of)

Then removing everything suspension bar anti roll bar parts and bottom arms plus going nuts on de rusting and torqueing every last nut and bolt on the front end....

all is well drives like a charm

Even re connected the air con pipe (plastic sealing ring broke a tooth hench the dislodging of pipe.) re gassed and working  then  serviced the engine too.

Now the battle of refund from j and r... at least the rolling around on the floor wasn't in the cold wet winter....

[Mirez]

Congratulations!!!! I too have done that saga and know how well it feels to come out the other side

[Ben g mon]

I spoke too soon......

After fitting new shafts I went on a 15 mile test drive on duel carriage way, didn't drive it for a few days and now on my way to go for a wheel alignment its back...

I checked for any free play in the front wheels and there is none the j and r driveshafts I removed had no free play in either (however the car locked up after the first pair and freed off with a bang so I thought the inner cv joint had burst its cage)

The only thing I really noticed was the rear bushes of the bottom arms perishing but never had the shake on drive take up with the old driveshafts (which had a worn out outer cv joint, fitting a new shaft was supposed to save time ) just since parts have been fitted.

This is annoying as it drives fine when going just the initial judder / shake as I go to drive off, I have limited time and how high I can jack the car up to check anything further.

Is it worth bothering getting an wheel alignment before I look into it more? May have to bite the bullet and reluctantly take to a mechanic.

[Chrispb]

Does seem strange that initially you thought you had cured it.
When fitting either driveshaft it's important not to let the shaft hang after fitting the inner joint, the inner tripod bearings can easily slide out and fall into the gaiter.

[Ben g mon]

Can't see how that would happen I thought they where in a cage?
Are they easy to pop back in?
Would worn lower arms cause this also?

[johnnyroper]

I had mine slide out of the joint last week when changing ball joint,I stupidly had arm off without removing shaft from hub. Resulted in me having to manipulate the tripod bearing assembly back in to the housing.

[Ben g mon]

Thanks for the tips....

Rather than pay someone to look at the vibration issue I decided Ã,£20 for cv boot clip tools and new metal tags was far better than Ã,£45 an hour to a garage (I'm not tight just real stubborn!)

Pulled the old clips off and found all rollers attached (tripod type) to inner cv joints but one roller on each end half hanging out!

Wheel off, track rod end off, anti roll bar link off , ball joint support bolts off pulled back and aligned it back in the guides. Bolted it all back up then dumped a load of fresh cv boot grease in with a metal syringe,reattached cv boot with new clips.

Did both sides, hard road test later... the death rattle has gone.

A grim job not wanting to repeat for a few years at least

Hopefully that's the end of repairs for now everything works like it should (until mot time I bet in January)