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Turbo gone. Need advice please

Started by yeshu26, March 02, 2017, 01:29:18 PM

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0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Engine code BVK.

Two bottles of forte turbo cleaner did p1** all! Overbosst problem. All hoses and N 75 valve working fine.

My mechanic had said long time ago about the "play" in the cartridge, and now the veins are blocked.

1: Fleabay guys want part number, dealer part number to sell me one. Can someone please help here?

2: ANy recommendations about turbo sellers in the UK?

best

HS

Try manually manipulating the vnt lever make sure it goes through full movement.
How did you confirm n75 is working properly?

as what johnny said.. try to free vent manually and use vagcom to force vents fully opened.

i see you are in scotland.. i have used spare turbo for sale that i kept just in case?? 

There will usually be a builders plate on the turbo like this which has the unit part number on it.

Alternatively the parts diagram gives a few part numbers for the BVK turbo but you still need to confirm what is fitted to your vehicle really.
Always learning..... Often by mistakes!

I tried to exercise vanes with my fault reader, but error comes up in dashboard (engine workshop) it blinks and beeps until i get out of group 011. Anyone has had same problem? It had been fairly cold in my area and car got symptoms like limp mode when driving with cold engine until it heats up and is restarted. Vanes are sticking i guess...
Buying this car after knowing all common problems feels bit sadistic, but then again, my main income is from growing potatoes in arctic.

If they are sticking vcds will not free them as that is basically doing what happens in normal operation,you need to get hand down there ideally with open end spanner to check/move them manually.

Before opting for new turbo you could try the mr muscle approach and see if that sorts it.
Have you confirmed vac/n75 is working with a mitivac while commanding movement with vcds?

I did move acutator with hand a bit but i`m not sure how long travel should be. Mr. Muscle was not my primary option , but to take it of and do a propper clean and scrubbing together with EGR (got all gaskets and stuff for job). N75 should be worth seeing upon. Could it become stuck with -10c?
Car when warm drives ok.
Buying this car after knowing all common problems feels bit sadistic, but then again, my main income is from growing potatoes in arctic.

From memory it should move about 20-25mm I think and feel fairly smooth just feel the actuator resistance.
I would think n75 should function in a wide band of temps.

Have you any boost deviation fault codes logged?

hard to tell if it was 20mm or not while lying under :D
sometimes get overboost.
Buying this car after knowing all common problems feels bit sadistic, but then again, my main income is from growing potatoes in arctic.

Sounds very much like sticky vanes then, options are change turbo,strip and clean or inject mr muscle in through egr port.
I have done mr muscle on mine and it does work but for more permanent fix I found it's good to get exhaust temp up every week or so by keeping in lower gear for 15 mins on motorway. Full throttle in 3rd down slip road then once on motorway hold 4th or 5th at 70 not had any more issues with mine since.

Quote from: johnnyroper on March 02, 2017, 05:32:49 PM
If they are sticking vcds will not free them as that is basically doing what happens in normal operation,you need to get hand down there ideally with open end spanner to check/move them manually.

Before opting for new turbo you could try the mr muscle approach and see if that sorts it.
Have you confirmed vac/n75 is working with a mitivac while commanding movement with vcds?
[/quote
next time i will be more precise ... manually and vagcom.
as what johnny said.. try to free vent manually and use vagcom to force vents fully opened -

Guys Sorry, Sorry Admin

I duplicated this post, because of some error and non subscription.

# N 75 may be ok, because of mild whining noise?
# Also one mechanic checked it with Bosch tool and vagcom, and it was switching on and off properly.


Quote from: johnnyroper on March 02, 2017, 05:32:49 PM
If they are sticking vcds will not free them as that is basically doing what happens in normal operation,you need to get hand down there ideally with open end spanner to check/move them manually.

Before opting for new turbo you could try the mr muscle approach and see if that sorts it.
Have you confirmed vac/n75 is working with a mitivac while commanding movement with vcds?

ANy pictorial for this please?

Quote from: insanitybeard on March 02, 2017, 05:01:41 PM
There will usually be a builders plate on the turbo like this which has the unit part number on it.

Alternatively the parts diagram gives a few part numbers for the BVK turbo but you still need to confirm what is fitted to your vehicle really.

1: My turbo is hiding like anything. It is right at the back. no chance to read.

2: Dos it MUST BE the precise part number which is printed on the current turbo?

Quote from: johnnyroper on March 02, 2017, 06:52:32 PM
From memory it should move about 20-25mm I think and feel fairly smooth just feel the actuator resistance.
I would think n75 should function in a wide band of temps.

Have you any boost deviation fault codes logged?

1: Yes Positive deviation

2: 17965- Charge pressure control

3: p 1557-35-00 Posittive deviation


4: Readiness: 00 1 1 1

Quote from: johnnyroper on March 02, 2017, 07:25:23 PM
Sounds very much like sticky vanes then, options are change turbo,strip and clean or inject mr muscle in through egr port.
I have done mr muscle on mine and it does work but for more permanent fix I found it's good to get exhaust temp up every week or so by keeping in lower gear for 15 mins on motorway. Full throttle in 3rd down slip road then once on motorway hold 4th or 5th at 70 not had any more issues with mine since.

The reason for proposing to change is, last time the play of the cartridge was checked, there was lot of play. And now we have clogged veins now we think..

take off the turbo and clean it out properly
i did mine recently and now runs perfect

Quote from: roberto on March 05, 2017, 04:54:11 AM
take off the turbo and clean it out properly
i did mine recently and now runs perfect

That may well solve the sticking vanes issue but not the play in the spindle if it is excessive and the bearings are worn.
Always learning..... Often by mistakes!

Latest issue...

Emissions to workshop. What is that now?

Sorry, you'll have to elaborate....... are those warning messages that are being displayed in the instrument cluster? If so, have you rechecked to see if any other/ new fault codes have been logged (since you last checked) to cause the warning messages to be displayed? Having said that, if there is a boost issue then it will obviously mess up engine performance and emissions.
Always learning..... Often by mistakes!

So after replacing turbo at the time of OP, I have started hearing noise at very high revs from the car engine area. Imagine taking a jug of pebbles/marbles and shaking them violently.

Turbo again? I am unsure how long is the warranty on a Garrett recon Turbo from Europarts.

You need to get it diagnosed first but if it is the turbo personally I think you will struggle to get a warranty replacement as itââ,¬â,,¢s been over a year. They will also want proof the servicing has been done by a vat registered garage along with proof a vat registered garage  fitted turbo along with new oil pipes and air filter.

Quote from: johnnyroper on December 08, 2018, 06:54:11 PM
You need to get it diagnosed first but if it is the turbo personally I think you will struggle to get a warranty replacement as itââ,¬â,,¢s been over a year. They will also want proof the servicing has been done by a vat registered garage along with proof a vat registered garage  fitted turbo along with new oil pipes and air filter.

1: Nothing shows on the VCDs

2: New oil pipes? To the turbo?

Vcds wonââ,¬â,,¢t show anything unless itââ,¬â,,¢s electrical or causing a running issue that causes a reading to go out or parameters. By sound of it you have mechanical issue that would need checking out before condemning the turbo as it could be something else at fault.

Yes normally with recon turbos or new for that matter it is a condition of the warranty the turbo oil feed and return pipes are replaced along with new air filter and some even state oil and filter changed aswell.

Always give your engine a nice good thrashing every now and then to blow out all the deposits. But only do it when the engine is warm and try to avoid doing it in low gears
I drive a Seat Alhambra 1.9Tdi which has 115bhp and an automatic gearbox.

I am happy to help you with all your questions. I am not a qualified mechanic but seem to be better at fixing my car than even the most experienced garages.

I have lots of friends here and very much enjoy talking with you all. Always remember, a motor car is a serious tool and should be treated with respect. Put your safety first, always.