VNT cleaning

[johnnyroper]

Got to tackle the cleaning of my VNT properly this time,have read through Chris's excellent guide in ref library and was wondering if anyone who has done this can answer a few questions?

1 can it be removed with driveshaft in place or is it essential to have o/s shaft off?

2 the torx screws that need removing do they come out easily enough or should I get replacements just in case?

3 how long has this job taken people to complete?

Turbo has been off recently when I did the head last year,also it was a recon unit about 2 years ago so exhaust bolts should not be seized.

[bigjeeze]

Why not try the oven cleaner method? Worked like a dream for me!

[johnnyroper]

I have done it a couple of times the last of which only lasted a month or so. Was parked at gatwick 2 weeks and stuck again so decided gonna do a strip down and fine tune vnt rod and stop screw properly while it's off aswell.

[insanitybeard]

I'd say you'd give yourself more room to work in and wangle the turbo out of if you remove the intermediate shaft, no need to remove the outer shaft from the hub- just unbolt the outer shaft from the intermediate shaft (6x size 12 XZN bolts I think?) and tie the outer shaft up and out of the way.

[johnnyroper]

does removing intermediate shaft require cracking bottom ball joint or losing any gearbox oil? Is it simply unbolt from flange and slide off shaft?
Also if it's in good condition is it worth greasing or something to help prevent future failure?

[Chrispb]

I found it easier to take the shaft off complete, one hub bolt as opposed to six bolts, you don't need to touch the ball joint.
as long as you have steering on a full right hand lock you can remove CV from hub and yes you can grease the splines on the inner joint.
The other way is to release the right hand engine mounting and pull engine forward but consider your aircon pipes which will be put under unnecessary strain.

[johnnyroper]

Cheers for that I will pop the shaft out in that case as I don't want to be putting stress on the air con pipes knowing they are a potential weak point anyway.

[mike wilson]

I have done it a couple of times the last of which only lasted a month or so. Was parked at gatwick 2 weeks and stuck again so decided gonna do a strip down and fine tune vnt rod and stop screw properly while it's off aswell.

If you don't lightly modify the housing, the Mr Muscle is deposited on the "wrong" side of the turbine.  As you have the turbo off, it's an ideal time to modify.  I can't remember the details now but there's instructions somewhere on Talkford.com - it just involves drilling and tapping a small hole in a suitable place to allow the aerosol straw to deposit the cleaner in the right place.

[johnnyroper]

Just had a search and can't seem to find anything about modding the housing,I will look at turbo when it's off to see if I can figure out where such mod would need to be done.

[mike wilson]

I seem to remember that there's a boss on the vane side that is robust enough to take a ~10mm hole.  I'll have a search myself later and see if I can find the post.

[mike wilson]

Guide to doing it the hard way (pdf file on the first post):
http://www.talkford.com/community/topic/218635-guide-splitting-turbo-and-cleaning-the-vanes-tdci-130-05/

Mr Muscle directly onto the vanes:
http://www.talkford.com/community/topic/239350-turbo-fix-looks-good-to-me-but-want-to-check/?hl=%2Bmuscle+%2Bturbo#entry2134784

Direct link to the Youtube video:
https://youtu.be/SFDMd8eVVXo

And, just for completeness, the actuator problem:
http://www.talkford.com/community/topic/184102-code-p132b-and-flashing-glow-plug-light/

[johnnyroper]

Thanks for the links but I think it won't be an option on the galaxy as the manifold is a different set up.
I do like how they say it's a pain to get at on a mondeo,they wanna see the Galaxy turbo and trying to do that in situ!
Got to be honest though I don't really fancy drilling mine for fear of ruining it and needing a new turbo,plus how easy is it to drill and tap I wonder?

The actuator looks a very weak point on those think I prefer my n75 vac set up.
Hopefully once I get time to remove mine to do a proper clean and set up actuator and stop acre properly it will be sweet as a nut? I have previously tweaked my rod length to improve the boost curve on vcds but it does need setting correctly when off. Mine starts to move at 2"vac and is fully against stop at 20" when it should be 3-5" and 17-18". I also think stop screw wrong and fully expect to see vane gap is too big in closed position.

[mike wilson]

If it's cast iron it should be easy to do both.  Drilling might be a little more difficult than tapping.

[johnnyroper]

I will have a look when it's off and see if it's possible to do a mod easy enough.