MkII TDI engine cutting out

[Fonz]

Hi Guys
I have a MKII 1.9TDI 130 2005 Galaxy. For the first time this morning the engine cut out when ticking over at a junction.  The engine temp was up and the car drove normally up to this point.  On the fourth attempt the car restarted, but the engine would not turn over on the first three attempts.  There were no clicks from the starter or any other noises. A friend of mine has a scanner which did find fault codes which when read said U3FFF.  we could not find any info on this code any help would be appreciated.

[SilverBeast]

As VW built all the Galaxy/Sharan/Alhambras and the diesel is a VW engine, you are better scanning with VCDS-LITE using a cheap (<Ã,£10) lead from ebay for errors.

It's not likely, but check the Auxilliary Fuse Box / Battery Junction Box as here https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/battery-junction-boxauxiliary-fuse-box-repair/

It's easy to check and a common issue so worth checking anyway.

If that is overheating then it can disrupt the voltage to the rest of the car so may be the issue.

[Fonz]

Thanks for the reply.  The aux fuse box wires have already been soldered but I will recheck them anyway.  Have been reading posts on the site and relay 109 seems to be mentioned a lot, is it worth changing that and if so where is a good place to get a quality part. I will get a lead so I can read the codes properly, does this look like the right one to go for 'VAG 409 VCDS'.  Thanks again 

[SilverBeast]

This one is the one I have (but haven't got the Windows 7/10 drivers - I use it on an old Windows 98 laptop)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-Cable-For-VCDS-lite-409-Drivers-Install-Guide-For-XP-Vista-Win-7-8-32-64-/161897053810?hash=item25b1d0fe72:g:ykYAAOSwGvhUDtx6

Relay 109 would be the next guess from me too.  It's usually the solder joints that fail apparently and it can be taken apart and be resoldered.  Fortunately i've not had an issue with mine (yet!) I don't think they are too expensive from VW, Ford probably charge a markup and possibly Seat too.

[Fonz]

Thats great thanks for your help

[Fonz]

Hi guys
Quick update, I purchased a lead and scanned for fault codes, came up with two codes - 17978 engine start blocked by immobilizer - and 00285 ABS wheel speed sensor front right G45 008 implausible  signal intermittent .  On further questioning my wife admitted she had stalled the car ('it just stopped' is not the same thing) and she was under a bit of pressure in traffic to restart the engine so there may be no problem there.  I had a look at the front right ABS sensor and it looks as though its been catching on the pick up ring on the drive shaft.  Will both the sensor and the ring need changing and if so what sort of job is it, has anybody had a similar fault?

[insanitybeard]

If the sensor is rubbing the reluctor ring then the first thing to check is the reluctor ring itself- they can break which will cause the ring to contact the sensor and could have also triggered that fault code. The reluctor ring is an interference fit on the outer CV joint casing as can be seen in this picture, you'll need to remove the driveshaft from the hub (and possibly the vehicle) in order to replace it (I don't think you can buy it as a genuine part but there are sellers you can get them from).

As for the immobiliser code, if you try to restart too quickly after a stall then the transceiver doesn't read the immobiliser chip in the key properly which can lead to a non start (and no crank either), a flashing door LED and possibly the fault code you describe.

[Fonz]

Thanks for the reply, yes I agree with you on the immobiliser code.  On the reluctor ring how do you fit the new one without damaging it? Any tips/tricks of the trade would be appreciated. 

[insanitybeard]

I've had the same thing happen to me before trying to restart too quickly after stopping the engine.

As for the ring, I'd recommend cleaning as much rust and crud off of the seating surface on the CV joint casing as possible before fitting the new ring, then I'd try gently heating the ring evenly in an oven immediately prior to fitting to expand it just enough so that it'll slide onto the casing without having to use excessive force.

[Fonz]

Thanks for that, excellent tips like that make the job much easier and stress free.

[insanitybeard]

No worries, I've never done that particular job myself but if I was going to I would think heating the ring to 150 degrees C or so in an oven would expand it just enough to ease fitting. This is what you're looking for, just make sure it's the right fitment/ number of teeth etc before buying!