MkII TDI Drive Shaft Replacement

[SilverBeast]

While delving round in the undertray for a dropped wiring clip and Torx Bit I discovered a big "pile" of grease! My Nearside inner CV gaitor has a split in it.  I have had a vibration on the passenger side at around 20mph while accelerating in any gear since I got the car.  I have replaced both front tyres and had them balanced so am pretty sure it's not that so am reasonably sure it's the driveshaft or CV joint.  I believe this inner CV gaitor was replaced last year (one of them was anyway) so am going to replace the whole driveshaft assembly.  I'll probably get one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-GALAXY-1-9TDi-2-8V6-DRIVESHAFT-NEW-2000-ONWARDS-/130539264617?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1e64bf1a69 as it appears to include the stretch bolt.

I'll probably disconnect the ABS sensor so I don't damage the wiring. Is there anything else that I should get/change at the same time?  Anything I should look out for? or lubricate now? 

Obviously I'll be taking pictures. 

[Mirez]

I would change the lower ball joint if ifs not been done before at the same time - you may have to batter it out of the way anyway as it can be a PITA to split. You shouldn't need to touch the ABS wiring -  it moves free enough with the strut.

[Chrispb]

The N/S shaft is a lot more difficult to work with, I didn't have a ball joint splitter available at the time so removed the pinch bolt and knocked the hub down off the strut, that gave me the clearance to remove the shaft from the hub, but in doing so strained the wiring at the ABS/Brake pad wear multi plug.
This could have been avoided if I had undone the plug first.
This may not be a problem when splitting the ball joint but would certainly advise unplugging as it was a bugger to reconnect wiring or just around Ã,£100 for a new ABS sensor/wear pad lead from Ford.

[Mirez]

Well yeah if you separate it from the strut disconnect the wiring - eek that's a complicated way of doing it

The offside shaft is indeed much more of a PITA, the drivers shaft can be removed without taking anything apart, the passenger one you definitely do need to split the hub (one way or the other lol) as there isn't the clearance to pop the shaft out.

[SilverBeast]

So do I only need to remove/split the bottom balljoint on as TIS seems to say, or do I need to separate tie rod balljoint (and replace the nut?)as well?

Reattaching is described in the TIS reassembly but not in the taking apart!    A bit confusing because it includes all the gearbox types in the same section.

Thanks

[Mirez]

Splitting the bottom ball joint is a must (or use chris's method if not), there should be enough room to move the hub without disconnecting the tie rod end but it may make like easier to do so.

[SilverBeast]

Well got my driveshaft and baalljoint. Current stretch bolt seems to be a 27mm AF Bolt, replacement with drive shaft is a 17mm Hex Drive (Allen Key Type).  As I have neither it's back to ebay!
As I've never replaced a driveshaft, or CV joint some more questions:-

(i) The inner joint on the new driveshaft is a lot "looser" than the outer CV joint.  Does that sound normal?  It flexs round and doesn't feel "gritty" but it doesn't feel "smooth" either.  I'd describe it as firm.

(ii) I didn't get new bolts with the balljoint, I assume it's OK to use the old ones (assuming I can get them out!)?  The old balljoint has a split boot anyway as it turns out.

[SilverBeast]

..forgot one!

(iii) Is it likely I will need to get my tracking done as I will be replacing the balljoint?

[Mirez]

1) Yes, the inner and outer CV joints are very different in design so won't feel the same.
2) Yes, the little allen bolts can be reused up to 5 times (and probably a few more after that)
3) Yes, but not because you are changing the ball joint - because you are replacing the drive-shaft. In reality it shouldn't have changed much but its always wise to get the car aligned after any work like this

[SilverBeast]

1) Yes, the inner and outer CV joints are very different in design so won't feel the same.
2) Yes, the little allen bolts can be reused up to 5 times (and probably a few more after that)
3) Yes, but not because you are changing the ball joint - because you are replacing the drive-shaft. In reality it shouldn't have changed much but its always wise to get the car aligned after any work like this

Thanks

[BH2]

Question?  Did the driveshafts from E-Bay fix the issue.  My recent experience was steer well clear of the low cost driveshaft replacements.  I fitted SKF shafts Ã,£192 each and the gal is smooth as new now.  Previous Interparts shafts were not up to the job and vibrated as bad as the worn the ones.

[SilverBeast]

That's my job for this weekend!

[BH2]

Let me know how you get on with the shafts from J and R.  They sell plenty of them and most people say they are pretty reliable as a supplier.

Let's hope the rain stays off!

[SilverBeast]

Fortunately I had a big garage built and can fit the Galaxy in diagonally so I can get all the way round it while I am working on it 

We obviously needed the big garage to store things in while we get the work on the house done....and we needed the big shed to store the stuff from the garage in while we had that done.....must get round to getting the work on the house done

[SilverBeast]

Replaced it yesterday.  Had a short run and vibration appears to have gone, though possibly a bit early to say at the moment. Glad I bought all the tools as I needed them. One of the balljoint fixing hex bolts looks like someone hit it with a hammer and I had to hammer my 8mm Hex bit into it and then fight it back out after I had finished.

Tips
(i) Make sure you have the tools ready first and check the stretch bolt on the new Drive Shaft - mine were different. 27mm socket on old one and 17mm Hex Drive on new.  Make sure you have a strong enough wrench for tightening the stretch bolt - I broke my 200Nm torque wrench and ended up having to use a 1m length of scaffolding tube over a socket wrench in the end to get through the + 90 degress!
(ii) Slacken Hub/Stretch bolt before you jack up the front end (and the wheel bolts!)
(iii) Disconnect the inner end of the driveshaft before you disconnect the bottom balljoint (have an assistant stand on the brakes while you slacken them)
(iv) If replacing Balljoint it's easier to take out the two bolts and move the hub out of the way before trying to split it. It's easier as you can turn the joint so the shield built into it id out of the way.
(v) Use the old stretch bolt (screwed part way in) to hammer gently tap out the Outer CV splines from the hub end.
(vi) When reassembling use the old stretch bolt (if undamaged by the removal process) to pull the Outer CV Joint into the Hub after it has been lined up.
(vii) Connect the Inner CV Joint to the Gearbox after fitting the outer CV Joint to the Hub and reconnecting the Ball Joint, this may only apply to the variants that use the 6 spline bolts, as you can finally position and tighten these with these back together due to the float in the inner CV joint.
(viii) Lower the car back onto the road wheels before final tightening the Stretch Bolt.

Just to confirm - for the Nearside Driveshaft replacement I only needed to disconnect the bottom Hub Balljoint (and the Driveshaft joints obviously!).  I also removed the under engine tray to access.

Just need to get a kit to helicoil the thread that the nearside rear undertray bolt fits into as it finally stripped.  It currently has three strips of tin can lid fitted to pack out the remainder of the thread so the bolt can bite and hold it.

It looks as though something runs through this box section.  Does anyone know what it is?  Looks like wiring or possible a hose, and can be seen through the other holes in it.

[blue metal]

great set of tips
must be some torque needed
if you broke wrench
well done

blue metal

[Mirez]

Did you take any photos? 

Not following which section of box section are you on about? The Chassis leg?

[BH2]

I think Silver is referring to the attachment point on the box section running towards the wheel arch section where the sump tray bolts on, location hole very close to the strut assembly.

[SilverBeast]

As BH2 says
[attach=1]

[Mirez]

Yeah that's a chassis leg I'm not aware that anything lives inside that as it should be box section from front to back with no breakouts...

[SilverBeast]

OK.  It seemed unlikely as the undertray bolts could press against the underside of it and wear it.  It seems to have something inside it like wiring in a plastic sheath (not the ribbed stuff) or the hose that goes to the wash wipe.  Probably just some coating that was inside it and can no longer adhere to any rust in there so it's just curled up!!

[insanitybeard]

As a response to a very old topic........ when I stripped the front end of my Galaxy the chassis leg box sections had some of those foam strip filled sealed plastic bags that VW seem to enjoy using (I found a couple more in behind the wiper linkage as well), I assume they're used either for sound deadening or to reduce ingress of crud and/or moisture.