Front strut top mount replacement

[ingermany]

Hi all, iÃ,´m new on this forum having found your very helpful advice on strut bearing/mount replacement. I have a few questions though and would really appreciate some help. My car failed the German MOT (iÃ,´m based in Germany by the way!), one of the problems, too much movement on strut. On removing the top rubber mount ( what a job!! i have a few tips to pass on ref. rusted top nut/thread etc. if anyoneÃ,´s interested!) i see the difference in size between the old and new rubbers is only about 3mm!! DoesnÃ,´t seem a lot.  iÃ,´ve also come across UK MOT advisory info on the Galaxy/Sharan suspension check and allowances being made for movement in the front struts. IÃ,´m getting concerned i might be doing this work when itÃ,´s not actually necessary. Any ideas??

Lastly, on tightening the top nut, the one inside the metal cup, do i need to tighten to a torque specification, and if so how do you do that without the strut turning? ItÃ,´s ok tightening with a ring spanner and allen key but how do you stop the strut turning when using a torque wrench?
Any help greatly appreciated.

[ingermany]

I may have posted this question twice, being new to the forum. If so please forgive me, and iÃ,´ll keep this brief just in case!

Questions:- What is the usual difference, in mm, between an old strut top mounting rubber compared to a new item? IÃ,´m measuring about 3mm which doesnÃ,´t seem a lot and has me fearing iÃ,´m doing the job needlessly! (one side done so far!)

Do i need to torque the top nut, the one inside the cup, not the one on top of the spring and bearing? If so to what figure, and how do i keep the strut from turning at the same time without being able to hold it in place with an allen key?

Very many thanks for any help 

[insanitybeard]

Greetings!

I expect there is a torque specification for the strut top nut but I don't know off the top of my head what it is, I'd suspect it would be in the range of 60-80nm. Usually, assuming space permits I've tended to hold the locknut steady with a ring spanner and then reverse turn (i.e, anticlockwise) the damper rod using either an internal torx or hex socket (depending on what the damper rod is machined to accept) on a torque wrench to achieve the same result. I know access is poor on the Galaxy but I think there's enough room there to do this.

[Chrispb]

Hello 
It's not just the height the whole body of the mount will be squashed which in total makes quite a difference when actually fitted.

The torque setting for the top nut is 44ibft or 60nm

[ingermany]

Yes that could work, it makes sense. Thanks for your help.