Turbo working but no power...

[alexk]

Hi there, another problem... Set off for a long journey across uk and found almost immediately that the power was very low - having to change down up slight inclines - but the whine from the turbo seems normal. The other times I've had this symptom it has been from the maf and limp mode both of which seems to cut off the turbo as I recall. Is there anything else which could be causing this? Worryingly, within 2 miles of our destination started to get symptoms like the previous topic "fuel issues" with lurching and stalling and then the heater plug symbol started flashing. Help! Are we going to get completely stranded a long way from home?

[insanitybeard]

Just a thought, the Mk1 Galaxy to my knowledge doesn't have the variable geometry turbo like the Mk2 has, it could be a problem relating to the turbo wastegate or the vacuum control solenoid not working properly, though without knowing which fault codes are present (if any) that's just conjecture. There's no leakage from the boost pipes is there?

Having said that, if it's started lurching and the glow plug lamp has started flashing then I doubt that would be caused by the turbo wastegate or control solenoid, you need to scan it for fault codes.

[Chrispb]

Yep deffo get diagnostics read first, it could be something as simple as a faulty brake light switch, make sure brake and clutch pedals return fully.

[alexk]

Am unable to get fault codes at present. Brake lights appear to be working. Could be pipes alright... Just had a look and the turbo pipes that my mechanic said he had replaced are all the original split and frayed ones. Grrrr. Have tried cutting the ones within reach with a Stanley knife and refitting and will have to see if that helps. Anything else the flashing gp can signify? Am about to head off round m25 and m40 and wish me luck.

[SilverBeast]

As you probably know lashing Glow Plug light is the equivalent of the Engine Management light coming on on most cars and just means the Engine Management (ECU)has detected a problem, usually with a sensor reading.

Assuming the setup is similar to the MKII both the Brake pedal and Throttle Pedal have dual sensors.  The brake has two switches, so just because the Brake Light is working it doesn't mean both switches are working.  If the switches don't agree (I think these are in the same module) then the ECU assumes a problem.  Similarly if both Throttle Position Sensors (they are in the same module) don't agree then the ECU can put the engine to a default RPM (usually higher than tickover I believe so you are able to get it safely out of the way of traffic/limp to a garage).  I believe both these fault conditions would leave a code that can be read, even if the fault itself clears.

Of course it could be something other than this anyway.

Hope your journey went OK.

[alexk]

Thanks, we eventually got to our destination and I mostly managed to avoid the limp mode by keeping the rpm under 3k and not stressing the turbo up hills (changing down to 4th). I have a cable for vcds but need to find a laptop running xp as my cable I've recently found is limited to this os. The car was occasionally doing high rev lurches esp in slow moving traffic. A bit of a hair raising journey but at least we completed our next stage. Thanks for the support I guess the next thing is to try and scan for codes.

[alexk]

Ok, I managed to pull a couple more codes off the ecu:

EGR valve open or short 31-10

Modulating piston movement sensor (g149) 35-10 intermittent

If anyone can point me in the direction to look regarding these....

Am starting to think someone's put a serious hex on the machine. It was always chuggy to start but now it pretty much is draining the battery to get going from cold. Also it has developed a brake issue and the pedal has gone totally hard (I guess the flashing gp we had might have had a purpose after all). I'm thinking possible servo or hose leaking?

We gave to travel back to Ireland in 4 days - a lot to get right first!

[Chrispb]

The modulating piston sensor is inside the fuel pump but have a look at the multiplug on the fuel pump first for corrosion on the terminals.
A loss of vacuum will also affect the boost control to the turbo.

[alexk]

Isn't the vacuum for the brakes separate from the vacuum for the turbo boost?

[alexk]

Where is the fuel pump? Is it accessible from above? I was told it is buried inside the side of the engine.

[insanitybeard]

The vacuum lines all originate from a single source (i.e, the vacuum pump) and branch off, so a leak in one line can consequently affect several systems.

The fuel pump should be accessible from up top, as you look into the engine bay it should be infront of the engine block on the left hand (drivers) side, it should have four small bore rigid metal pipes coming out of it going to each of the four injectors (one per cylinder).

This diagram shows the fuel pump and pipes, it doesn't show where it sits in relation to the engine but it should help you identify it.

[alexk]

Thanks for that. I was getting confused with the injector pump. I see the fuel pump but am unsure about this multiplug. There are three wires attached to the front of it but these are all separate and look like ground wires. Then there is a cable running to he side of the pump with seven wires and they enter into a unit onto the pump which has four torque screws. The other end of the wires go into a multiplug connector in front of the radiator fan. Where should I be looking for corrosion?
Also, I see the fuel pipe going into the pump and it has an air bubble in it. Could this be significant?

[alexk]

Also, is the EGR valve fault likely to causing some of my symptoms?

[insanitybeard]

A stuck EGR valve can certainly cause an engine to run badly or cause a loss of power if the valve is allowing spent exhaust gas back into the intake instead of nice clean air when you are under power.

[Chrispb]

Thanks for that. I was getting confused with the injector pump. I see the fuel pump but am unsure about this multiplug. There are three wires attached to the front of it but these are all separate and look like ground wires. Then there is a cable running to he side of the pump with seven wires and they enter into a unit onto the pump which has four torque screws. The other end of the wires go into a multiplug connector in front of the radiator fan. Where should I be looking for corrosion?
Also, I see the fuel pipe going into the pump and it has an air bubble in it. Could this be significant?

Fuel pump/Injector pump is the same thing on this engine.
Check all wiring going to the pump especially where the wires enter the multiplug and the connectors in the plug, also check if you have the needle lift sensor wire, this is a single wire going to number three injector only, am not 100% it's on your model

[alexk]

Okay, so the garage says the car really isn't repairable. Thèy reckon a Brake servo has gone behind the dash (slight hissing coming from there that alters when the brake pedal is pushed) and they didn't bother tô look into the fuel issue (poss fuel pump) as there has been some rewriting done by previous owner (inc disconnected temp sensor which can't be reconnected or the car won't start) and that an auto electrician should look at it first.
Anyway, we're over a barrel as have to get the ferry back to Ireland in two days. Gonna have to scrap it a source a replacement. Am looking at a 1999 1.9 tdi 115 tomorrow with 200k going for Ã,£800...
Hate to scrap the car as I've put a lot into it inc a Bosch maf and two new front shocks only a couple of weeks ago. Any ideas what scrap value is?
Garage reckon the brakes should be working even with a loss of tuebi vacuum as there is a separate brake assist or something. Is that right or should I have pressed them to search for the source of the hissing? If I could get the brakes working I could at least limp back to the ferry safely

[alexk]

Ok car gone to scrap now and I've got a 1999 Zetec 115 that seems to be driving sweetly so far.... Watch this space. Btw the old galaxy has a full tank of diesel, is there any way to get it out easily?

[insanitybeard]

Either take the filler neck pipe out of the fuel tank and syphon it out or if it's got a lift pump in the fuel tank (the Mk2 Galaxy does for sure) you could affix a small bore pipe to the outlet pipe on the fuel filter and repeatedly cycle the ignition on and off, you can simply discharge the fuel into a jerry can or something this way, it does take a while though as you only get a little bit of fuel out at a time, unless you want to mess about locating the fuel pump relay in the main fusebox to bridge the terminals so that the lift pump runs continuously!

[alexk]

Hmm, the filler pipe seems quite continuous with the fuel tank and I can't see an obvious way to disconnect it ( it is a mk1). There is a smaller pipe above it which I assume is a breather pipe and this seems to have a clip connecting it. Would it be possible to access the fuel through this? I have a pipe going from the filler cap to the tank and can draw diesel out but it won't seem to flow. I'm assuming there's some anti syphon bends or something to stop this ?

[Chrispb]

A few different devices on here.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1311.R3.TR6.TRC1.A0.H1.Xpetrol+sy&_nkw=petrol+syphon+pump&_sacat=0

[Mirez]

If you are scrapping it then just cut the fuel line under the car and cycle the ignition. Took about 150 cycles to drain the Golf

[Chrispb]

Doesn't OP have a MK1? no intank pump!

[Mirez]

Ahhhh good point well made, in which case just do what the pikeys do and put a screwdriver through the tank!

[alexk]

I got a bulb type one way valve thingy from the motor shop and hàve half emptied it so far. Sore wrist and now need longer pipe so more tomorrow 

[gregers]

shame your scrapping it,just an idea to see if your car had missed any kind of recall.i may well be barking( )
but when i bought my old mk 1 i popped into my local fords and they ended up fitted a new master cylinder and servo.FOC.

[alexk]

That's a very nice idea - a foc servo and master cylinder! Unfortunately our car is registered rep Ireland (although I think it was originally uk). No matter really as we're sailing tomorrow and I don't have time to look into it and I can't leave the old gal blocking up my mum's driveway! 
Ps. Am only being offered Ã,£100 for scrap! I could get at least €400 in Ireland. They give €125 per ton for the metal alone.

[alexk]

If anyone is interested, it's driving (just) and has alloys with four new tyres. Seats are all in good condition. I'm planning on taking the MAF and towbar (if I can get it off in time). Also has two brand new shocks. I'm in Oxford at present. Here till tonight although the car might be here a bit longer if I dint get round to scrapping it before I go. 

[Chrispb]

It may be worth advertising it if the car is in good condition but needs some attention, someone nearer to your location may fancy a challenge to sort out the problems.

[alexk]

It's ok. The guy I bought the zetec from is taking it for Ã,£150