A/C does not work, Galaxy MK1 2000 2,3

[r-e]

Hi,

I have Galaxy MK1 and automatic A/C does not work. The solenoid does not get 12V for some reason. When I give 12V directly to the solenoid, it says ââ,¬Âclickââ,¬Â and cold air is blown. So, there is enough gas and the compressor works.

I changed the pressure switch and checked that pins 1-2 are closed (I have understood this means that pressure of gas is ok). I also measured that 12V comes to the pressure switch.

Unfortunately, the solenoid is still silent... In fact, I donââ,¬â,,¢t hear ââ,¬Âclickââ,¬Â from anywhere (relays), when I turn A/C AUTO → ECON → AUTO etc.

Any advice how to continue troubleshooting?

Thanks!

[Chrispb]

Hello and 

Low gas pressure is a common problem on the aircon system, the only way to tell if you have the right amount of gas is by weight, that means drawing off what gas if any is left then refilling, usually the system is vacuumed and pressure tested with nitrogen before refilling providing there are no issues.

Scanning for fault codes first will give a better indication of what the problem is.

[r-e]

Thanks! It is nice to see a well organized forum. English is not my mother tongue, but I hope you understand my message.

After changing the pressure switch, I measured that pins 1-2 are closed. I think this indicate pressure to be ok (enough gas). Connection between pins 3-4 was open. I also think that the pressure switch is the only component which tell if amount of gas is not correct.

Fault codes was a good point. I though the a/c system is too ââ,¬Âdummyââ,¬Â to give fault codes.

[Chrispb]

The wiring around the pressure switch is prone to breaks and corrosion also check the wiring to the outside temperature sensor behind front grille usually near the N/S fog lamp.

Do you have the climate control display panel (ATC) or the manual control (3 rotary knobs)

[Mirez]

Hi R-E!

Fault codes may well help you diagnose this faster however if there aren't any then my process would be:

Check Fuse F15 - this is the supply for the A/C Clutch, through Relay K32.

If that's intact then I would test K32 (Preferably by removing it and applying 12V to Pin 5, ground to pin 3 - it should click and give continuity between pin 1 and 2)

If thats good then we can look at the causes as to why the relay isn't been "told" to energise.

Since you've already started on that I'll join you there - The Pressure switch you mention should be closed on pins 1 and 2 and open on 3 and 4 - you have already tested that so the sensor it working and the pressure must be good. Down circuit from here (As Chris says) the next component on from that sensor is the outside temperature switch which will inhibit the A/C if the temperature is below 6*c, this should be a closed circuit on Pins 1 and 2. From here the circuit passes back to the ECU. If we go back to the pressure switch and measure pin 2 (Carefully - you'll need the engine running and A/C turned on) you should have 12V present. If not then working the other direction from the pressure switch, we can see the supply is from F34, through the climate system and then into A/C switch - if the light comes on when activated then we know the supply is good. Its a duel pole switch though so we should measure the output (Pin3) to confirm 12V is present once turned on. From here it passes into the "De-Icing Switch" (I'm not 100% sure what switch this is tbh as my Mk1 knowledge is a bit limited) - unless activated it should pass on to the A/C Pressure

If you did have 12V present and the temperature switch was closed then you could check that 12V reaches pin 41 of the ECU - bit of a pain to do that though so lets assume it does for the moment.

Check Fuse F14 and F32 and intact, F32 controls Relay K108 and F14 is the supply its switching. The supply from F14 is used by the ECU and cooling fans but also is one side of the Wide Open Throttle relay K32. The ground for the coil is controlled by the ECU and appears to be on at all times unless the throttle if floored. This is the final part of the circuit you can test easily, Locate and remove K32 before checking if 12V is present on the sockets Pin 1. If it is then the relay isn't closing - test the A/C activates by temporarily bridging Pins 1 and 2 with a suitable piece cable (Enough for 20amps)

[r-e]

I visited a garage and they did not find any fault codes.

Are there two outside temperature sensor? One for outer temperature gauge and another for A/C (for 6*c limit)? Temperature gauge shows reasonable values. I have ATC, no knobs at all.

F15 is intact. I earlier changed relay K30. Are relays K32 and K108 near K30 (under the fuses)? I didnââ,¬â,,¢t find any relays under the hood. There is not fuse F34 at all! Place of that fuse is empty and there are not even connectors for the fuse. Strange...

[Mirez]

Humm, can you confirm the build year or your car? Its a 2000?

[r-e]

It is registered 5/2000 but I am not sure about the build year. 2000 or 1999.

[Mirez]

Put your VIN number into here:
http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do;jsessionid=061A04C48B4E8A88718BF32D288609BE.eccvas511

Should tell you the build date as the wiring changed a lot from 98 to 2001

[r-e]

Build date: 02.03.2000.