This write up is based upon my personal experience and no responsibility is taken for anybody following this guide injuring themselves, their vehicle , their property etc,  If anybody wants guidance whilst undertaking the job then you are free to contact me using 07929 159828.
Neil

Tools required:
X 2 good hydraulic jacks,
X 1 good bottle jack, (note you will at some points be using all 3 at the same time).
15 mm socket, 15 mm spanner (combi), 13 mm Socket, 13 mm Spanner ( combi) ,10 mm Socket ,10 mm spanner Combi, 8 mm socket, 18 mm Socket, 21 mm socket, 22 mm socket, mallet, stilsons, lots of good blocks of wood, Set of Allen keys (metric), ball splitter ( ex-wife) , couple of medium weight hammers, good length hole pick, Engine Crane ( or block and tackle) , Set of Torx keys, ( T45 ) , penetrating fluid, Copper Slip Grease, Lead light,  Good quality side cutters pliers, bull nose pliers, Knuckle bar, x 2 12ââ,¬Â extension bars, x 1 6ââ,¬Â extension bar, Set of car ramps ( preferably), set of screwdrivers both posidrive and flat blade, you will also need one VV small flat blade screwdriver), box on nitrile gloves.

Passenger side wheel side:
1)   Drive car onto car ramps and block the rear wheels for safety, leave car in gear and pull the handbrake up as far as you can.
2)   Jack up passenger side of car, remove car ramp and block the car safely under the chassis.
3)   Remove passenger side wheel,
4)   Remove drive shaft retaining bolt 13 mm, from wheel hub centre,
5)   Remove track rod end, ( use Allen key in the end to stop it turning if necessary) ( I used a 7/8ââ,¬Â spanner), split using ball breaker
6)   Remove lower ball joint ( use Allen key if necessary to hold still whilst undoing nut) ( again 7/8 Spanner
7)   Remove upper connection for Tie Rod and fold down out of the way.
8)   Force lower wish bone down and remove hub assy, lean it to one side and disengage drive shaft from hub side, only.
9)   Remove Inner Arch liner.

Under Car:
1)   Remove Sump guard shield , and front under bumper guard
2)   Drain gearbox oil from lower drain point ,then refit and tighten plug
3)   Use a tyre lever and sharply snap the driveshaft from the diff , i.e insert the lever between the inner CV and the diff housing and snatch to one side.

[attachimg=1]

4)   Remove the drive shaft , clean both ends , then put a rubber glove over both ends for cleanliness
5)   Remove lower intercooler pipe , 10 mm nut at the back, 8 mm bolt at the front, note if your car is still factory fresh you will need to snip the factory fitted jubilee clips in order to remove the plastic pipe , you will need to buy 2 new correctly sized clips as they are not reusable
6)   Remove lower gearbox mounting bracket , it connects the side of the gearbox to the cat ,Pic below shows the bracket removed,

[attachimg=2]   

7)   Remove the rear gearbox mounting from the sub frame.
8)   Remove as many bell housing bolts as you can see, 1 is a bit of a git to reach but do able ,
9)   Undo the Drivers side Drive shaft mid bearing support and remove the front part of the Clamp)

Sub frame:
1)   You cannot remove the gearbox without dropping the entire front sub frame, it is not possible, do not waste your time trying to do so.
2)   Using x 1 hydraulic jack and blocks of wood position your jack under the centre of the front sub frame and take the full weight of the car.
3)   Undo the front Sub frame bolts (22 mm from memory) using the knuckle bar, these are uber tight so be prepared.
4)   Undo and remove both rear sub frame bolts and the two 13 mm locating bolts on both side

[attachimg=3]

5)   of the rear sub frame, the frame is now loose and supported only by your hydraulic jack,
6)   You must now also place a good jack under the Engine Sump, ( use blocks of wood)
7)   You must now also place a jack under the Gearbox, again use blocks of wood,

Engine bay:
1)   Remove air cleaner box,

[attachimg=4]

2)   Remove Battery
3)   Remove Battery Tray
4)   Tuck wiring out of the way

[attachimg=5]

5)   Remove engine top plastic  cover ( if fitted)
6)   Remove Clutch hydraulic pipe ( flick out the small retaining clip using the tiny screw driver)

[attachimg=6]

7)   Remove gear selector cables and fold them out of the way, To remove the front and from the ball mechanism simply use a large flat bladed screwdriver and twist between the body and the ball, they will pop off with little or no effort, Then remove the rear part of the cable (s) from the mounting bracket, note on my car these were a swine to free and remove from the bracket, I used a big screwdriver and a twisting motion to dislodge them.
8)   Remove the starter bolts and the remainder of the bell housing bolts.

[attachimg=7]

9)   Tie a rope around the gearbox and position your engine hoist.
10)   Take the weight of the box with the engine hoist
11)   Remove the top engine mounting plate and mount in its entirety
12)   Your box is now ready to be split
13)   Wiggle the box to separate and at the same time ensure the Drivers side driveshaft has pulled clear of the diff, if not you will need to snap it out in the same manner in which you removed the Passenger side

The box:
[attachimg=8]

Inside of box:
[attachimg=9]

14)   Lower the jack as far as you can which supports the sub frame  Do not remove the jack
15)   You can then lower the gearbox down and drag it from under the car. A bit of jiggling will be necessary.

This is what you see:
[attachimg=10]

16)   Using the correct Torx key you can then remove the finger plate.

This is what you will see:
[attachimg=11]

17)   Using the correct Torx key you can then remove the DMF

Re fitting tips:
The torque loading for the DMF is 48 nM or 35 Lb ft. of torque, you should use thread lock on these bolts the finger plate setting I used is 40 Lb ft.

The oil capacity of the gearbox is 2 litres

Use the engine crane to lift the box into position in a controlled manner, it is the only approach that works, I know, I tried brute strength,

Your sub frame holes will be a swine to realign, the best way to do this is to use a good hole pick and force, you must also now jack the car up using the jack under the gearbox until the front drivers side wheel is able to be rotated ,( at this point is has little weight on it so the sub frame can more easily be moved around, When you have the ideal position to get any one of the four main sub frame bolts in, lift the jack under the sub frame  and take the weight of the car this will hold it in position whilst you get the bolt in but do not tighten it ,i.e for each bolt lower the sub frame down so there is no weight on it , align a bolt hole with the pick then take the weight of the car with the sub frame jack pinning it in position whilst you do the bolt up.

Using the above method get all 4 main bolts and the back (smaller 13 mm bolts) into position, then tighten them all up.

Pretty much everything else is a reversal of removal, obviously grease up all bolts and nuts before refitting

Note the Clutch Disc is marked up transmission side; ensure you fit this the correct way around

You should make a tool up to centralise the finger plate, clutch and DMF, see below , I used a socket of the correct size , doing this helps the spline shaft locate when youââ,¬â,,¢re trying to slide the box back into place

[attachimg=12]

Note the gearbox hydraulic pipe can be fitted 180 degrees out of position you will only know it is wrong when you check the linkages for clear unobstructed operation, as in if wrong the pipe will chaff on the gear selectors.

Note the Clutch hydraulic pipe will need to be bled, there is a nipple designed for this on the hydraulic connection to the gearbox, the clutch is fed hydraulically from the brake fluid reservoir. (Dot 4)

Your clutch pedal will have gone to the floor; you should lift it back up then start to pump it up and down to start the self-bleed,

If I need to explain how to correctly bleed the clutch beyond this then I suggest you do not try any of the foregoing removal as you will only hurt yourself, and or your wallet!