Fuse 32?

[brianh]

Hi All

Not posted in a while, but good to see the site is still here!

Can anyone tell me what exactly is connected to fuse 32 (2.3 2001 petrol). I've tried searching on here for the fuse layout but keep hitting a search function disabled due to server load message, and the FAQ section unfortunately seems to point to the old fordmpv domain (and changing the link to the current one doesn't work either!) https://www.bigcarclub.com/index.php?topic=780.0

I've had it blow twice but don't really understand what its supposed to be doing due to a lack of info (the car manual just "helpfully" shows engine electrics, yet I'm seeing issues with the instrument cluster, interior lighting, door locks and alarm going off!).

Its got a 5amp fuse currently, which is what the manual says should be there.

I don't currently have access to TIS to have a look for more info such as the wiring diagram unfortunately.

Cheers

[brianh]

I'll add that I suspect I'm going to have to have a look at the wiring in the door gaiters given the different bits involved. I've also had a couple of occasions of the windows triggering global opening when its not wanted, though I'd put this down to using the key in the lock as I only had that key to hand at the time rather than the remote one, and didn't usually use the door locks on the door themselves to unlock/lock. Its just had both outriggers welded back together in preperation for a MOT!.

Edit - https://www.bigcarclub.com/index.php?topic=1233.msg7309#msg7309 looks like its time to lift the carpet and checkout the wiring loom around the passenger side, as I know its had wet carpet recently (Although haven't been able to find why as yet either).

[Chrispb]

Hi Brian

This is the power distribution from fuse 32, I didn't have the fuse blowing just loss of supply one being the diagnostic socket supply. Splice joint 32 is a very poor joint it looks like the wires are just twiddled together and with wet carpet syndrome causes loads of trouble. As you can see door lock wiring could also be an issue. Don't know how much longer the site will be here there's very little activity now.

Good luck anyway Chris.

[brianh]

Thanks Chris, I haven't got round to looking any further at it yet, car is currently off the road but should be back on with mot early next month all being well, not sure how many more years it's got left in it, not so many of the MK2s still about given the newest are now approaching 16 years old.

I remember looking at the joint a few years ago but not since, it's been parked up and discovered the wet carpet issue a couple of months ago, suspect I need to try and secure the scuttle in place a bit better than it currently is.

[Chrispb]

Have you already checked the rear w washer pipe, there is a joiner there that can come apart if the pipe gets frozen.

[brianh]

Not as yet - its passed the MOT and carpet has stayed dry, I think the wet carpet was down to the scuttle being poorly fitted (Missing the bolts either side as they got lost a while back and don't seem to match any thread I could find at the time). Rear washer does work so in theory pipework shouldn't be seperated, but a bigger problem has appeared in that it intermittently doesn't want to go into either first or reverse gear when the engine is running!

[Solentview]

I hope that I am not too late to offer congratulations to brianh for getting his 25-year-old through the MOT. We are only 17YO, so it seems that we have some useful life left. We had the vehicle treated at Rustbusters a good few years ago, and I have re-dosed the outriggers with Dinitrol cavity wax several times since - and (fingers crossed) so far the bodywork has not attracted any attention at MOT time. 

[brianh]

This is the second time the outriggers have needed attention - the first MOT when I got this one had to have some patching done (I've had this one since 2017!) but it had now got to the point where patching wasn't going to do the job anymore and more drastic work needed to be done!

I've not got round to looking at the door lock issue as it seems to be behaving now - I'm suspecting it may be some sort of issue with the drivers door motor as it seems to play up when using the spare (non-remote) key more than the remote one to lock/unlock. Though I will check that cable joint just haven't had time to do so yet.

Thanks all

[brianh]

Well splice 32 seems fine, though there is clearly a leak somewhere around there as the carpet is soaked, I'm hoping this was down to the loose scuttle which is now secured in place correctly again. Washer pipe is fine, I had to replace the front bit after it snapped near the front strut and taped the joint up after covering it with heat shrink, that seems to have held well and doesn't leak so can rule that out. Does look like the PDC ECU under the passenger seat has come close to having a swimming lesson but having removed it doesn't look like that's actually got wet itself, although I've got issues with the front sensors, I've swapped both of the ones showing faults but can't be sure how good either of them are as I've had them ages.

Somewhere about there is a spare pdc ECU and some more sensors I got off one of the members here, as soon as I can locate them I've got a few options to try. The fuse hasnt blown again since so it may be that the water has been getting into something and causing it, time will tell! If not then it's going to be down to checking the door gaiters I guess

[brianh]

Dug into the gaiters in all the doors, found the only ones with any issues were both back doors (Even the boot is intact and appears to be as it came from the factory which is surprising to me!) both of them with broken insulation in the wires that run to the door speakers, and the Red/Yellow and Brown thick wires both broken apart and shorting together in both doors. Strangely neither of the front doors or the boot appeared to have any issues. Its also sorted out the slightly dodgy sounding speakers. Hopefully that sorts out the door locking though I don't know if those thick wires are involved in that, or are just the supply for the electric windows. As yet the fuse hasn't blown since the original time it was a problem.

Replaced relay 30 at the same time as had issues getting it to start last week. And replaced a dodgy connector that wouldn't latch on the front parking sensors. That annoyingly hasn't fixed the problem with them, and wiring seems to check out with the multimeter, so next step is going to be to find that ECU, once we have replaced the clutch master cylinder which has failed completely this morning!.

[brianh]

Well the clutch has now been fixed (new master and slave cylinders as the slave started leaking once the master was swapped out, so put the new clutch plate in there at the same time to save having to go in there again too soon as well)

Still go the door locking issues, joined now with what looks like a dodgy starter solenoid and now the indicators have decided to also join the party of non-working items (I get clicking rapidly from the fusebox, but no telltale lights on the dash or any working lights on the outside) That being the case, I'm starting to suspect the timer unit in the fusebox may be the source of issues.

I've got a spare starter motor, so at least that can be fixed, Hopefully a search on here may provide a different answer to the indicators issue?

[brianh]

First port of call was to check the fuses > https://www.bigcarclub.com/index.php?topic=1023.msg6026#msg6026

This revealed the problem with the indicators was down to the red wire on a connector by itself not being plugged back in, so at least that bit is now sorted out!

[brianh]

Well got somewhere on most of the faults now

Door locks - looks like the rear drivers side door catch has some sort of fault, as unplugging it has restored locking to the passenger side doors (numerous lock circuit failures shown on the diagnostics as it was, I've had the passenger side door loom out on the front door completely today as it looked like there was no ground/earth connection to the door lock, only to discover that the wire for the earth connection starts out as the thick brown wire and joins a splice in the door which changes to a smaller brown wire with yellow tracer, so the same colour wire in the door post connection is nothing to do with it, and actually goes to the mirror )

In any case, leaving the lock on that door unplugged is an adequate temp fix until I either find the lock taken off the previous galaxy or buy a replacement for it.

The starter motor problem turned out to be a rusty earth lead (the main battery negative feed on the 2.3 goes down to the bracket on the starter motor and bolts to the lower front fixing bolt that attaches it to the gearbox, removing the other nut from the bracket showed it to be pretty manky, cleaning that up seems to have fixed that issue, it also seems to have cured a problem I had when first starting of spluttering for the first minute or so of running which I suspect may have been poor ignition due to the engine not being earthed as well as it should have been).

Thought I'd got somewhere with the parking sensors when checking the other ground points I found the one under the passenger seat was rusty, but cleaning it up hasn't made the slightest difference. Front loom appeared to check out OK with the meter, but need to check it from the ECU to the front which wasn't possible at the time, hopefully that shows up something.

Earth points for anyone else struggling with this that I've discovered so far as follows (2.3 petrol here)

Battery negative to engine - starter motor bracket
Body to engine - under air filter box
One under each front seat (remove seat and look in the box underneath - only the one on the passenger side seems to be at risk of corrosion as it sits on the bottom of the box, the drivers side is raised up)
Behind the glovebox on the crossmember hidden in the dashboard - remove the lower glovebox, its on the side nearest the door at the top of the opening)

I suspect there is one near to the fusebox/central junction box area, and TIS refers to one on the rear lefthand side of the engine which I haven't found as yet. There are also others at the rear end near to the lights.

Hopefully the above helps someone else out at some point.