Central Locking Wiring Diagrams Please.

[afp401]

Hi All, does anybody know where I can find or be willing to send me the wireing diagrams for the central looking on a 2004 2L petrol manual sharan.
i'd be very grateful!
Steph

[johnnyroper]

Sorry don't have a diagram sure someone on here can get one though.

Out of curiosity do you have a fault with the locking? If so have you checked the common fault in rubber boot from car to doors/tailgate as they are notorious for having broken wires that cause all manner of electrical gremlins

[afp401]

Yes, it appears to be the classic: "drivers door, boot and petrol cap lock but none of the passenger doors do".
On top of that a random passenger doors sometimes locks semi permanently for a few minutes/ hours or sometimes days.

As far as possible I have checked the cables between the doors and pillars.
They are not exactly easy to access.

Divers door plug is seized into place. No hammer and screw driver and/or WD40 did  loosen it.
The Cables going into the boot on the left side are obscured by an extra plastic housing  I have not been able to "break into" to check without potentially causing substantial damage.

As far as I can access and see by pushing the rubber sleeves around the cables look in good condition on all doors but one.

The exception is the near side rear door, but it is only the insulators that appears to be broken one 3 cables (2 of which are speakers) cable. Unplugging said door appears to fix the permanent fault.
But  according to my multi meter there appears to be no connectivity (short circuits) between any of the cables, or any cable and the chassis on that door.

I also had the door card off and tested the cables. There appears to be connectivity  between the door pillar plug and the plug that connects to the Central locking motor in that door in all cables.

I'm now trying to widen the search for the fault(s) and left wondering:

-is the central locking motor unit broken in that door?
-is there a broken cable between that door pillar and the Central looking control unit under the passenger seat?
-Is the central looking control unit broken?
-Is it any of the micro switches that allows you to lock all the doors by locking the door next to you by pushing the handle into the door opposite from opening?
-is there some broken cable somewhere i have not found that keeps confusing the central looking unit?

Any hints welcome!

My preferred next step would be to check the connection between the door pillar of the offending door and the control unit. Hence me asking for the wiring diagrams.

If that shows no fault taking out and disassembling the Central looking motor in that door. But taking the look out will render the door un-lockable and hence the car undriveable.
As we use the car daily and public transport here is near none existant. This being my first car DIY I'm somwhat apprehensive about going thereââ,¬Â¦ but I suppose you got to start somewhere.
The fact i don't have a garage to do this and the current weather don't help...

[johnnyroper]

The unit I per passenger seat is parking sensor controller not central locking,I believe the central locking control is under dash by drivers legs??

The litton plugs should not seize like that as they are plastic have you tried gently using some pipe grips to get a bit of purchase on them?

From what you describe it sounds very much like broken door wires and if it was me I would be getting them unplugged and pulling rubber boot back to get a good look before anything else. I think the central locking motors on sharan are more reliable than the Galaxy as ford used different ones?
Have you got vcds as that will give you fault codes to point you in right direction.

[afp401]

Thanks for the reply!

I have read on various forum threads it is under the passenger seat /drivers seat on a left hand drive and i'd say this diagram confirms that?http://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/sharan+syncro+4motion/sha/2004-406/9/962-962000/


As far as I can without actually cutting the rubber sleeves off (unpluging sleve and pushing it as far as I can to one side/ then repeat other side) I have tripple checked for any wires looking broken on all doors.

The only way i can think of going further down the broken cable between door and pillar route is taking the door card of all doors so  I can check continuity between the door pillar plug and the centreal locking motor plug.

Before I do all that I'd rather check continuity beween the control unit and the apparently offending door.

Unfortunately I don't have VCDS. Will any standard mechanic have this?
My local mechanic refuses to get invovled with the wiring but maybe I can get him to do a read out for meââ,¬Â¦
On other forums and threads people describe what seems a myriade of faults (sticky motors, sleds, bend latches, higher than usual actuation voltage on the motors etc. etc.) all presenting themselves as short to ground in door X on VCDS. So my hopes are not that high but will do this before I take the lock out the door...

[johnnyroper]

Central locking control unit is part of the fuse box I think,the module under seat is definitely park sensor after about 1998/9 models.

Anyone with vcds or a vag scanner should be able to read codes and then you have a starting point.

[Chrispb]

Can concur with what Johnny said that picture is the parking assist module.
The main fuse box is the controller for most of the car, it it usually trouble free.
The common places for trouble are the wiring through the gaiters breaking/chafing shorting etc, smaller wires may appear to be intact but are actually broken inside the insulation.
All doors must be thoroughly checked including the tailgate.

[afp401]

OK you guys are right I had the timing mixed up. Seperate CL control unit under seat was in earlier models. CL now integrated with all the other stuff in the front.

Now how to identify which wire is broken? I can't very well strip the insulation of all of them.
I suppose i'll have to test continuity of the wires in that door whilst simultaniously wriggling the wires in the hope of identifying the intermittent fault. Now complicated by the fact that said door refuses to open...

Is there a way to release the look once I have removed the door card? (if I take the seat next to the door  out I recon I can still take the card off )

Which has reminded me of another intermittent fault. with the remote car unlocks itself 2-3 seconds after bing locked with the remote. With the key it wont lock at all just the automatic windows  go down istead (both sides in the front the back ones are manual)

[johnnyroper]

So by sounds of it locks are in deadlock so the unlock handles inside do not operate the door lock.

In that case it is a matter of getting door card off with door closed which is not the easiest thing to do. I don't know if it is possible to easily open door once card is off on a sharan but the ford are difficult still as mechanism is all concealed inside plastic housing.


From what you describe all your glitches do sound like faulty wiring just need to identify which ones are causing it

[afp401]

How long does it take to hook up a car to the diagnostics and get a few fault codes?
I just had 3 garages telling me I'd have to wait until next week for them to do it.

Is there a way to disconnect the central locking from the lock and have this door reduced to operate just manually?

I really don't like this idea of dead lock without a manual override at all.  It cunjurs up images of having an accident/water causing an electrical fault resulting in being trapped in a burning or drowning car....

[johnnyroper]

Don't take long to run a diag test about 10 minutes or so,but it does depend on garage having a slot to fit you in around other workload.


deadlocks will only work when locking with remote or key,they cannot arm when you are in car and ignition is on so there is no issue with being stuck in after accident etc.