Factory Sensors To AfterMarket

[bestfc01]

Its amazing how much hassle a blown stereo can cause.

I'm a sparky so when it comes to this type of wiring faults it best left to someone who knows what there doing.

I did take a look at replacing all the wires however this is going to cost in excess of Ã,£150 and this seems a tad outrageous for a car i'm only keeps for 1 - 2 years. (Going to get the TDi)

The strange this is that i'm not getting any resistance, all voltages are fine.
Everything keeps pointing to the PDC.

It worked fine when i first installed it. Albeit didnt help by someone putting sellotape on one of the sensors 


I'm going to install the aftermarket sensors as i have them, and there easy to do and the holes on the rear bumper are already the right size. However that being said, does anyone have a recommend way of looping the - from the reverse switch?

Ideally when i sell it i want the new owner to be able to install the factory ones should they wish. I hate it when someone does a botch job which cost Ã,£Ã,£Ã,£Ã,£ to fix. I dont really want to be that person 

I was thinking of soldering the aftermarket kit +/- to the pins inside the faulty PDC. That way all the plugs will remain untouched.

Any Thoughs ?

[johnnyroper]

The easiest way would be to pick up a feed from reverse light wiring and have the module down the back somewhere,keep the run from sensors short also.
Just unplug oe Pdc and leave like that,then everything is still all in place should new owner want to reinstate.

[bestfc01]

Hi Jonnyroper,

This is what i did with my focus.

My only concern with leaving the OE PDC unplugged is the fact that there is no dedicate fuse i can remove.

Leaving live wires with the possibility of water in the compartment from kids etc is typically a recipe for disaster

Would it be beneifical leaving the faulty OE PDC installed? Although it doesnt power on, it should keep the connector safe

Would you agree?

[bestfc01]

Also i dont suppose you know the relevant wires for the reverse light do you?

As there on the boot, i dont fancy running a new set of wires to the actual light.

[johnnyroper]

Even when plugged in water can still find its way in to plug,just disconnect the power one and tape up.

No sorry not off top of my head I don't but it will be under the trim on sills,so you could pop cover off boot and see what colour then corresponde to the loom under sill trim?

[bestfc01]

Ok ill do that then.

Just looked at the wiring in the haynes manual and it suggests that Bk/Gy is + Bn is -

[Chrispb]

Just reading through your posts, when you downloaded the software from Ross Tech did you download the one for third party leads?

This one http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.php

[bestfc01]

Hi Chris,

yep that the version i downloaded.

I think its probably just the cable that is causing the issue.
I should no Monday/Tuesday when the replacement arrived.

Im going to order the one johnnyroper has just purchased.

I did notice with the cable i purchased there was no option to change the latency.

[Chrispb]

OK just had a thought you might have downloaded the software for RT's own cables

[bestfc01]

I did initially think that, so when i formatted the laptop again, i ensure i downloaded the third party cable one.

I even tried connecting to the car and laptop for the first time just to see if that was causing the issue.

The cable is fully detected by both the Lite and 409.1 software, however it just doesn't want to communicate with the control modules within the car.

Has anyone been able to get VCDS Lite working on the 2.3 petrol?

[Chrispb]

Have you got a neighbour/friend who has a VAG car of your era to test your laptop and lead, I've not personally tried mine on a 2.3 but it is supposed to work on modules other than the engine.

Perhaps our 2.3 members can confirm

[bestfc01]

Not got anyone willing for me to connect it up.

They dont quite understand what it is, so im not totally surprised 

Will give the existing cable a try again tomoz, if it still dont work ill buy a new cable.

[bestfc01]

I can confirm the cable i brought was indeed duff.

I opened it up to find A) the red and black wires were not connected B) It didnt have the FD232BM /BL chip installed

I could re-solder the red and black wire back to the OBD2 II connection, however A) i dont know where they connect and B) for the sake of Ã,£12.99 I can get a new cable that i know has the FD232BM /BL chip installed and other members have managed to get this cable working.

[johnnyroper]

Fingers crossed get a new lead and it will connect fine. Been one thing after another hasn't it?

[bestfc01]

I'm certainly hoping so. The fun thing it to find a lead that work with my engine

It sure has, 

At least the cruse control has been resolved 

[bony6777]

I did initially think that, so when i formatted the laptop again, i ensure i downloaded the third party cable one.

I even tried connecting to the car and laptop for the first time just to see if that was causing the issue.

The cable is fully detected by both the Lite and 409.1 software, however it just doesn't want to communicate with the control modules within the car.

Has anyone been able to get VCDS Lite working on the 2.3 petrol?

I have got working cheap eBay cable like you have .on my 2.3 y reg. But with this cable canÃ,´t read engine.engine only with elm cable.

Отправлено с моего LG-D855 через Tapatalk

[bestfc01]

I'm afraid the 2.0 and 2.3 MK2 galaxys are Ford engines.
The 2.8 V6 and 1.9 TDi MK2 galaxys are VW engines.

VCDS will not communicate with the ford engines, not even the full paid version.
VCDS will however communicate with most of the controllers within the Mk2 Galaxy such as HVAC (interior heating).

You would require an alternative cable and software to communicate with the ford engines.
Likewise to alter the dash on any of the Mk2 galaxys (and i believe sharan /alhambra) you will require a Vag-tacho cable and software. This is due to the EEPROM being stored in hex.