Aux Heater duff - Can I remove it without losing diesel?

[Fraz-ktf]

Hi.

I'm fed up with the car never getting warm, on the short runs I do.  It can take 10 miles or 20 mins before it's up to temp so I want to get my aux heater working!

It may take a while to sort but my question is: Can I remove the heater unit for overhaul and still use the car daily, without diesel coming out of the pipe that feeds the aux heater?

also, how would I test the glow plug please?, presuming I can get it removed.  I've got to find the fault but not really sure how to begin . . . . 

[Chrispb]

Just link the two coolant pipes together with a peice of 22mm copper tube, the diesel pipe can just be plugged with a small bolt, pop the multiplug in a small plastic bag and tape up to keep it clean.

Be warned the later heater suffers with controller problems so may be more than just a new glow plug, the plug can be tested with a multimeter or connecting to a battery.

Have a read Here

[Mirez]

You can measure the resistance of the glow plug to check its function and then very carefully, can apply 12V to it and watch it glow. Ensure its held in a vice or something as it should get white hot.

[barlidge]

To add to the above it would be wise to get get yourself a lead and read any fault codes first so you have an idea of the fault and the outcome of any remedial action.

[SilverBeast]

I also have a 2005 TDI 130 and have replaced my Aux Heater.
(i) As above I strongly suggest you read the error codes with a VCDS-LITE/VAG-COM lead (if you haven't already) before removing it.  You can do it afterwards by reconnecting the plug without fitting the heater, but you may save yourself a lot of time/money.  You may be lucky and just need to reset it and you will need to do this anyway if it is locked out.
(ii) Confirm your Auxilliary Coolant (Run  on) Pump is running.  Turn on ignition to the "run" position but don't start the car.  Turn off heater fans by settting front/back speeds to 0. You will be able to hear/feel the pump running on the bulkhead behind the diesel filter. On the 130's the pump only runs while the ignition is on, not after it has been switched off as on some models. There's no point sorting out your heater if this pump isn't working as it will overheat and shut down again.  My personal opinion is that the D5Z-F (later model fitted to mine and maybe yours) is that if the pump isn't working and the Heater overheats then it damages the controller PCB which is fitted to the top of these models (heat rises!) with them getting hotter than normal.
(iii) Check model of Heater. From what I have read D5Z-F's seem to suffer more from controller failure than glow plug failure as they have a ceramic glow plug, which is I believe different from the older models.
(iv) If/when you get round to removing heater:-
    (a) Remove the short coolant hose with the heater.
    (b) Leave the longer coolant hose on the car. You can loop this hose round and connect it to where the short hose was removed from.  I ran my car for several months like this while I attempted to fix the original heater.
(v) You won't particularly lose any diesel while removing - it doesn't pour out as it get's pumped through the feed hose when it's running.  Plug it suitably (I used a machine screw) and use a jubilee clip to clamp to the plug.
(vi) Protect the car wiring connector from the weather (I sealed it in a plastic bag to prevent moisture ingress).
(vii) Be careful how you put the heater down.  It's really easy to break off the clips that hold the hoses and heater wiring connector on the body - particularly when you are trying to get the corroded/electrolytically welded screws out of the heater.
(viii) Be prepared to have to drill out a lot of the cover and mounting screws.  You really need a decent pillar drill. When I was attempting to repair mine most of mine ended up being having helicoils fitted due to the difficulty drilling them.  Buy spare screws before you start.  I got stainless steel torx for mine in the end.

[Fraz-ktf]

Thanks for the great advice, I will follow it to the letter 

Thanks to everyone else too. 

[SilverBeast]

Good Luck 

Let me know if you need any more info.  I have plenty of pictures (75 but lots of duplicates) from when I removed and stripped my first one, before eventually replacing it with one from ebay.

Be aware the gasket kits for the earlier D5WZ are different than those for the D5Z-F, though the circular one for between the burner chamber and the fan/injection assembly is the same.

[Madbaz]

Just to add if you replace the glow plug then replace the gauze as well. In the burner engine, there is a recess for the glow plug, make sure the hole within that recess is clear or the ruddy thing won't light and will become a fog making machine.

[Chrispb]

Just to add if you replace the glow plug then replace the gauze as well. In the burner engine, there is a recess for the glow plug, make sure the hole within that recess is clear or the ruddy thing won't light and will become a fog making machine.

Blimey Baz haven't seen you for a while , suppose you been having nights out on continental lol.

[Fraz-ktf]

Good Luck 

Let me know if you need any more info.  I have plenty of pictures (75 but lots of duplicates) from when I removed and stripped my first one, before eventually replacing it with one from ebay.

Be aware the gasket kits for the earlier D5WZ are different than those for the D5Z-F, though the circular one for between the burner chamber and the fan/injection assembly is the same.

Hi Mr Beast

I read the fault codes today with the following results (Which I don't understand really). I had the engine running whilst scanning and after clearing the faults, I turned off, removed the key for a minute, then repeated the whole process.

I then cleared the codes and re-scanned (Which I did a couple of months ago too) and the Heater faults didn't re-appear, though they will, as per times before.

What is the fault with the heater, is it the glow-plug? Is it just a case of replacing? Can it be replaced without stripping the heater down? Does the fault code tell you which model of heater I have?

Also, what is the Aircon fault anybody?  That one won't go away at all? How would I cure this one (I've re-pressurised the aircon system)

thanks

HERE'S MY SCAN RESULTS:

VAG-COM Version: Release  311.2-N


Chassis Type: 7M - VW Sharan
Scan: 01,02,03,08,09,15,16,17,18,19,29,36,37,39,45,46,55,56

Address 01     -------------------------------------------------------
   Controller: 038 906 019 NB
   Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G000SG  6249
   Coding: 00002
   Shop #: WSC 00020
1 Fault Found:
16916 - A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor (G65) Circuit Low Input
            P0532 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: N/A


Address 18     -------------------------------------------------------
   Controller: 7M3 815 071 B 
   Component: HEIZG. B/D5W       0001
5 Faults Found:
01491 - Glow-Plug for Heater (Q9)
            29-00 - Short to Ground
01491 - Glow-Plug for Heater (Q9)
            29-00 - Short to Ground
01491 - Glow-Plug for Heater (Q9)
            29-00 - Short to Ground
01491 - Glow-Plug for Heater (Q9)
            29-00 - Short to Ground
01491 - Glow-Plug for Heater (Q9)
            29-00 - Short to Ground

End   -------------------------------------------------------

AFTER CLEARING CODES & Re-starting the car

VAG-COM Version: Release  311.2-N


Chassis Type: 7M - VW Sharan
Scan: 01,02,03,08,09,15,16,17,18,19,29,36,37,39,45,46,55,56

Address 01     -------------------------------------------------------
   Controller: 038 906 019 NB
   Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G000SG  6249
   Coding: 00002
   Shop #: WSC 00020
1 Fault Found:
16916 - A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor (G65) Circuit Low Input
            P0532 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: N/A


End   -------------------------------------------------------

[SilverBeast]

Well your Controller reads the same as mine as does the Component so it may be the same heater model, though the Screen shots from the Aux Heater Guide in the FAQ's shows the same numbers , but without a B on the end of the Controller.

Have you read the model number form the label on the heater yet?

Mine was intermittent and alternated between Glow Plug Open Circuit and Glow Plug Short to Ground.  When I stripped it and tested it with 12V it glowed fine.

Unfortunately, as I said I ended up replacing the heater as I believe the controller PCB itself was the problem.  If you have a D5Z-F and your Run-on pump has failed or failed previously then that would be my diagnosis (though I have only got actual experience with my car and reading the Forums).  I believe I have seen a thread on one of the sites with a link to a place that does exchange heaters, of just the controller PCB's (about Ã,£100 from memory) if that turns about to be the case.

If it's the older heater (which I suspect iwill turn out not the case) then it appears that these are easier to repair.  I did look for a glow plug for mine, and have photos with the part number on it, but they seem a lot more expensive.

[Stainless Steve]

Hi all, noob here but been working on cars for years.

I also had this problem, stripped the ecu and depotted it. I found two dry solder joints which I repaired amd its been fine since. Hth, Steve

[SilverBeast]

Hi Stainless Steve

I've still got my old one and intend to have a look at it sometime.

What did you use to strip the potting compound from the controller PCB?

[Stainless Steve]

it aint easy! used a knife and sandpaper to start and then a solvent for the nitty gritty. you can also take a cuter to the ally plate and go in from behind but then you gotta seal it back up after.

[Fraz-ktf]

Good Luck 

Let me know if you need any more info.  I have plenty of pictures (75 but lots of duplicates) from whenever I removed and stripped my first one, before eventually replacing it with one from ebay.

Be aware the gasket kits for the earlier D5WZ are different than those for the D5Z-F, though the circular one for between the burner chamber and the fan/injection assembly is the same.

So, today I removed the auxiliary heater (it is a D5Z-F) and I could really do with some advice please.
Which glow plug do I need to get?
Where is the best place?
What is this gauze kit I need?
Could my heater be swapped with an older D5WZ? and if so, what would I need to alter, if anything?

Thanks

[insanitybeard]

The discussion about some of the necessary alterations required to convert the later D5Z-F equipped Galaxies to run the earlier D5W-Z heaters was had in the thread that Chris linked in the first reply to your original post.

The D5Z-F heaters as I understand it run ceramic glow plugs which are more durable than the earlier type plugs, with this in mind and bearing in mind you have a D5Z-F with a load of 'glow plug short to ground' fault codes, I think there's a good chance you will be wasting your time by fitting a new glow plug to it, more likely it's the ECU packed up..... If you can get the unit out you could confirm this by powering up the glow plug manually and seeing if it heats up.

As discussed in that thread linked by Chris, my D5Z-F worked a few times last winter intermittently, when it did there was no smoke and it ran cleanly leading me to believe there was no fault with the glow plug, more likely the controller wasn't operating properly- my unit was showing 'glow plug open circuit' and 'glow plug short circuit to ground' codes. My next step before next winter will be to replace the ECU, which can be purchased from Ford or ebay- the other linked thread had a link to a German  seller selling D5Z-F ECU's.