Heater blower problems

[JC27]

Hi guys newbie here. i have been experiencing heater blower problems on my 2004 VW Sharan  1.9Tdi for the last few months but now causing a issue as cant effectively demist windows. Blower only previously worked in pos 3/4 with so i changed the resistor pack on the side of the blower. AC light works now and blower will run for  a minute or so in all positions before giving up the ghost. I can restart it after a few minutes but it sounds rough. My question is how do i get the blower out ? Do i need to drop the whole centre consule.

[Mirez]

You should be able to do it by removing the lower dash panel. I imagine the Sharan design is very similar to the Galaxy, so pop off the plastic strip that seperates the upper and lower dash sections (passenger side with "airbag" engraved), remove those bolts, the glovebox and side panel and you should be able to drop the blower down from there.

Sounds like you have the manual version though so before you go to that aggro though take a good look at the back of the switch pack as they've been known to almost burn out and cause similar issues. 

Welcome aboard by the way

[Chrispb]

  to the forum.

You only have to remove the glove box to remove the motor.
There is one retaining tab at about the 5 oclock position, then turn the motor anticlockwise to remove.

[JC27]

Thanks for the response guys. I`ll have a go at removing it at the weekend

[JC27]

Thanks for the advice guys. Wife kept nagging so couldnââ,¬â,,¢t put it off til the weekend. Whipped the blower out and it was a bit squeaky and dirtier than a coal miner after a 12 hour shift. So gave it a good clean out refitted it and it seems to run ok - time will tell! . However the brushes are just about gone. Anyone know where i could get replacements as they look kinda bespoke.

[JC27]

Blower only lasted for about 30mins yesterday so hoping new brushes cure it @ Ã,£3.99 from ebay. Went back out this morning once the snow stopped to check a few things and found that the top fuse link (110 A ) in the aux fusebox had been overheating. The fuse link had been fitted back to front( all the others had the rating showing)  and the little locking tab had been pushing the terminal upwards and contacting the box. Removed it and cleaned it up but will need to get a new fuse box as it has a crack in the link and has melted the insulation separating fuse 1 & 2 . Bit concerning as I have had the car since new and that is the first time I `ve been in there.   

[Chrispb]

I would advise you to solder the crimps on the two large cables as a high resistance can build up between the copper wire and the crimps, you need some flux, solder and a blow lamp to do this as a soldering iron won't get enough heat quick enough.