A variation on a common theme - faulty central locking

[jhbright1234]

I have a re-badged mk2 Galaxy (05 Seat Alhambra). What a great site. I have already used 3 existing posts to solve some problems and started to try to fix my central locking using the instructions to remove the door card and start looking at the wires in the rubber going from the door to the car. I found a couple of wires (brown) and (red and yellow) wires that had split.

My symptoms persist. having fixed the wires.

I have replaced the key battery also

When I click the remote to lock the car nothing happens.
When I click the remote to unlock the car,  the indicators flash.

When I use the key to lock the car. The car locks. Then unlocks itself. So at the moment I can't lock the car.

I have ROSSTECH software and a cable.  The fault codes are as follows:-

                Address 09: Cent. Elect.       Labels: None
Control Module Part Number: 7M3 962 258 AG
  Component and/or Version:    Multifunkt.Einh  0002
           Software Coding: 04097
            Work Shop Code: WSC 00020 
                      VCID: 7F0907CF553D
2 Faults Found:

01145 - Central Locking Motors; Unlock Rear Doors
        29-00 - Short to Ground
01143 - Central Locking Motors; Driver Door and Tank Valve Unlocked
        36-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent

1) Do I have more work to sort out duff cables ?
2) is it just more than duff cables ?
3) how can I just disable the central locking and manually lock all the doors ?

Thanks

[Chrispb]

Hello and welcome.
Have you checked/repaired wiring on all the doors including the tailgate, these are the common faults.

[Mirez]

Hello and Welcome!

The lock/unlock is because it's not "seeing" a door as closed when it should be - Unfortunately I suspect you do indeed have further wiring to sort - the tailgate wiring also shouldn't be overlooked!

You should be able to pull fuse 19 or 27 to disable the central locking and allow for manual locking all around.

[jhbright1234]

Thanks for the replies.

I am busy over the next few weeks, so for now fuse 27 has been removed and I can lock my car.

Thanks.

I'll report back when I have some time to fix all the wires.

[rockingmark]

That is exactly the problem I have found with my car. Have you found the fault?
I have found that mine has all the usual cracking insulation and breaking wires... The drivers door loom had so many repairs that I have pulled it right out and ordered a new one from Ford... currently Ã,£365!!!! ouch

[brianh]

The dodgy wire insulation/breaking wires is well known about on these, best thing to do if the wires have been repaired multiple times is to splice in a new section of wire, keeping the joins outside of the bits that move. That should sort it for a fair while (some of the issue is a poor design and can't easily be addressed, though newer wire flexes better than the stuff originally used which is awful!)

I'm surprised you can actually find a new loom from Ford though. The drivers door and the boot tend to be the worst ones as they get the most use (and the boot/tailgate opens far wider than the doors, so the wires have further to bend)

[rockingmark]

Today I installed a brand new drivers door wiring loom from ford and removed all the other passenger door looms inspected repaired and made good where damage found and refitted them... Still nothing is locking and alarm not activating... Oh I checked the luggage door wiring... no apparent damage... same fault present.

When turning key in drivers door the fuel flap lock is visibly working but the 3 passenger doors are not locking or unclocking. What could the problem be?

Please note. All the door lamps are working. All speakers are working (including tweaters) all windows work from all switches... Im assuming 3 door locks have failed together???

[brianh]

Its doubtful that all three have failed together, the only ones i know to cause the locking and unlocking to happen are the front ones (if the back fails to lock it just locks the other doors it can lock).

I'd try unplugging the passenger side lock, then try and lock it and see what happens first? If that works try the same with the drivers side (locking from inside should be sufficient to test).

It would be very unusual that theres no damage to the tailgate loom though - you've checked the bit inside the boot there not just the bit inside the door?

[rockingmark]

Hi, yeah had the covers off the tailgate and everything... Situation has changed.

Car now locks drivers door fuel flap and boot. Alarm arms. Drivers side passenger door makes noises but doesn't work... passenger side doors make no noises... possibilities?? will test plug pin voltages on those doors tomorrow.

But any suggestions?

[brianh]

Either a broken lock motor or the wires leading to it on the drivers door?

Does yours have a keyhole on the outside on that door? If so does it work in both directions through to 90 degrees? (the lock has a paddle on the back of it to operate the lock itself, These can break as they are made from metal which is about as hard as chocolate, if its broken and stops it turning properly it may be the problem).

[gregers]

if it is what brian has suggested you can buy repair kits on ebay.

[brianh]

Also looking at the parts listing, it looks like the bit with the switches on is a separate part, I think that bit is only used for the global window open/close functions and the alarm, though I can't be sure of that. And yes the paddle bit is available as part of a kit if thats what you need, although removing the paddle/lock handle would be enough to isolate the problem. If you have the lock on the passenger door of course, I don't think the later mk2's do?

[rockingmark]

Nothing wrong with drivers door at all.
No, there is no lock on passenger (near) side.

I'll re check passenger side wiring Friday...

Incidently you may be interested that I got some of it working by using the key in the boot lock a couple of times! I wonder if it was a microswitch in the tailgate lock mechanism that caused the issue in the first place

[sparky Paul]

Oh I checked the luggage door wiring... no apparent damage... same fault present.

I'm still quite surprised by this, especially if there was damage at the driver's door.

It would be very unusual that theres no damage to the tailgate loom though - you've checked the bit inside the boot there not just the bit inside the door?

+1 to this. Disconnect the tailgate right hand rubber gaiter from the car body and pull it right back - that's where they all go.

[rockingmark]

nope... all tailgate sytems working 100%... Tested for power and signal at front passenger door... not seeing 12volts at any pin... THinking new drivers door loom may have pushed out a pin or 2? will investigate after the weekend.

Tailgate locks on remote. as does Drivers door and fuel flap. Drivers side passenger door makes noises but doesnt lock...

[johnnyroper]

Pull off the kick panel and have a look at rear of the A post socket,when I fitted my rear loom back in one of the blocks within the socket pushed back. I had to unplug loom and push the block back in and hold in place while I refitted the loom plug.

[sparky Paul]

THinking new drivers door loom may have pushed out a pin or 2? will investigate after the weekend.

Certainly possible, as johnnyroper says above - check inside the A post trim.

The only reason I mentioned the tailgate is that it can lead to some very peculiar faults indeed, and that's usually where they go first - although any problems there could well have been fixed previously.

[rockingmark]

Thanks for all your suggestions guys.

Well, to update you all, Saturday the central locking all started working properly again after I put the key in the tailgate lock and turned it.

The system arms and disarms from that lock it seems. So I have replaced a butchered drivers door loom carried out preventative repairs on the other looms and probably could have just put the key in the tailgate and worked the lock to get it back working. Still from reading the posts on this site this work has been worthwhile. I'll thoroughly check the tailgate loom again long-term. Meanwhile, will now sort out the incorrectly assembled windscreen wiper linkage so the wipers park properly at the bottom of the screen and not the sides.

[brianh]

Thanks for all your suggestions guys.

Well, to update you all, Saturday the central locking all started working properly again after I put the key in the tailgate lock and turned it.

The system arms and disarms from that lock it seems. So I have replaced a butchered drivers door loom carried out preventative repairs on the other looms and probably could have just put the key in the tailgate and worked the lock to get it back working. Still from reading the posts on this site this work has been worthwhile. I'll thoroughly check the tailgate loom again long-term. Meanwhile, will now sort out the incorrectly assembled windscreen wiper linkage so the wipers park properly at the bottom of the screen and not the sides.

That is what they are supposed to do yes (unlock from the boot lock). My mk1 didn't when I first had it, and only started to work properly once I'd redone all the wires in the tailgate gaiter (They were a right mess due to someone messing around previously that shouldn't have been trusted with a soldering iron and a tube of silicon). You might be lucky, or it might be a broken wire that's moving around for the problem to come back again, only time will tell.

If you find your dashboard backlight suddenly starts coming on when pressing the brakes thats a sign that one of the thicker wires in the tailgate has snapped off. I suspect it would also indicate that at least some of your rear lights aren't working how they should as well.

[rockingmark]

thanks for the tip... meanwhile waiting for new door clips to arrive so the beast is put back together