Water leak from rear nearside of engine compartment

[martinrichard]

I saw a Gates kit for about Ã,£80
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222243678989?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
and did wonder if Gates was okay.
I'm guessing that you're happy enough or you wouldn't have mentioned them.

Regarding the bolts, that's very useful, thank you.
I've just been researching grades of steel so that I could understand.
Onwards and upwards!

[johnnyroper]

Gates are a well known manufacturer who make original equipment parts.

[insanitybeard]

In the world of belts Gates is one of the leading and most well known manufacturers, I'm not sure whose components they would use for the tensioner, idler and water pump in their kit but for them to put their name to it it would need to be O.E quality, therefore there should be no issues whatsoever with using one of their kits.

[Chrispb]

If you have the choice go for Gates every time.

[martinrichard]

Well, that's an unequivocal "Yes" to Gates! Thank you.
Its been a good day today, got the cam-belt tensioner and water pump off, and have started disconnecting the pipes entering the cylinder head.
Attached (I hope) is a photo so far, showing that the glowplug rail, tandem pump and inlet manifold need sorting next.

I've looked through the inlet manifold/turbo threads on the forum trying to understand what awaits me and got a little confused.
In the "Brief run down of head removal" that johnnyroper kindly made earlier in this thread;
"Remove the air pipe on turbo 2 x 10mm head bolts and the breather pipe to rocker cover.
Remove boost pipe to egr valve"......
If I've understood correctly, that doesn't seem too bad!
But I'm uncertain where the 2 x 10mm bolts are and whether I have to access them from under the car.
Sorry to be so dim, but can anyone point me in the right direction for how to proceed with the inlet manifold (and turbo?) please?  Confused

[insanitybeard]

I think he's possibly referring to the pipe which connects the turbo to the EGR valve which allows exhaust gas to flow back into the inlet manifold via the EGR valve, if so then the flanged joint with those bolts is visible in this picture. If you were going to take the head off with the inlet & exhaust manifolds still attached then you wouldn't need to remove these bolts but if you're leaving the turbo where it is then said pipe needs to be disconnected.

P.S, although Gates gets a solid endorsement regarding timing belt kits, it's not the only option- I fitted a Dayco timing belt kit to mine and I think Continental also produce a kit. INA may also do one, so there are other options.

EDIT- I think I'm wrong about the pipe. What I think he actually means is the rigid metal pipe that connects the flexible duct coming off of the MAF sensor from the airbox down to the inlet on the turbo, I can't find a good picture of it but it's number 10 here.

[martinrichard]

Thank you.
I want to do the least difficult method.....
probably leave inlet and exhaust manifolds attached.


I think the problem is that my understanding of the piping behind the head is limited. I'll understand when I get it apart, but that leaves a challenge in the meantime

Can you advise me, if I leave inlet and exhaust manifolds attached, what does that mean that I have to do next?

Thanks and sorry for such a basic question, but this is a major learning experience for me!

[insanitybeard]

Sorry, in case you've not seen I edited my previous post R.E the pipe. Be warned, if you plan on removing the head with the turbo/exhaust manifold still attached it'll be a lot of weight to lift off. The crux of it is there is a fair bit of pipework relating to the EGR cooler which is affixed to the inlet manifold, the access is poor to it with it (the head) still in situ so if I was doing the job (which I've not had the pleasure of doing thus far) I might try leaving the inlet manifold and associated gubbins in place but removing the exhaust manifold/ turbo before attempting to lift the head. The following articles if you've not yet seen them may serve to educate you better:

Inlet manifold

Turbo

[martinrichard]

That's a good place to start.
I've read the articles (a few times!) and they're very good.
I'm wondering whether I might have remove the drive shaft to get access.
I think it will start to make sense when I get under the car and have a look at the exhaust manifold junction and lay eyes on the turbo.
Thanks for writing back so quickly.

[martinrichard]

Got your edit - that makes sense now - !

[johnnyroper]

The bolts I referred to are for the air box to turbo pipe,there is one in to turbo housing and one in to the engine.

As above lifting off as a complete lump is gonna be heavy.

I took egr cooler off couple of coolant hoses,2 egr pipes,2 5mm Allen bolts. I then removed inlet manifold.
With turbo I opted to disconnect it and slide off head and with some rope or large cable ties secure it out of the way against the bulkhead. With driveshaft and head still on I found it impossible to remove completely from either up top or from bottom.

[martinrichard]

Thanks!
Did you remove the exhaust manifold or did you leave it attached to the head?

[insanitybeard]

Exhaust manifold and turbo are one unit on this particular engine, it should be possible to remove the bolts/ studs securing the turbo/manifold to the cylinder head and slide it back slightly (it will still be supported by the exhaust downpipe but as this has a flexi section some additional support may be required) to allow you to lift the head whilst leaving the turbo in situ.

[johnnyroper]

I disconnected from the flexi exhaust to make sure I had plenty of clearance but with hindsight leaving on would give enough room. Just make sure you disconnect the drain tube from block and the oil feed pipe at oil filter and it's clips so it can move when pushing turbo back. Support it with some rope though so it can't move about.

[martinrichard]

Excellent.
Its been a reading and research day today, fits in with the rain and man-flu too!
Good news that the oil pipes can be disconnected at points distant to the turbo.
So it looks like grappling with the nuts on the exhaust manifold is next.
Thanks again

[martinrichard]

At last, the head is off.
An easy lift because I took off the intake, EGR and turbo/exhaust.
I wouldn't have got this far without all the help I've received on the forum.

The head itself looks good; the gasket is split in places into its separate layers with nothing obvious to see on the outer surfaces, but I don't know about the internal  layers.
The block appears to have a carbon marking from cylinder two, to a coolant hole (photo attached).
I wonder if this could have been the cause of  the problem?

[martinrichard]

The marking I'm talking about is at between 12 and 1 o/c on cylinder two.

[insanitybeard]

Is that definitely carbon? From the picture that marking looks very broad and more like some dirty oil which has simply been smeared along the top of the engine block. What I'm more interested is how clean the piston crown on cylinder no. 4 is in comparison to the others, have you cleaned it at all or is that how it was upon removal of the head?

[martinrichard]

I've just been out to check. I think that that was a trick of the light on the right hand piston and I did clean it, but there is less crusted carbon on it.
I have re-photo'ed but my laptop is playing up and taking ages so uploading new photos with next post.
Also I have wiped cylinder two and the mark still shows. But I'm not sure of its significance.
Photos shortly I hope.

[martinrichard]

Here we go......

[martinrichard]

sorry, poor resolution

[martinrichard]

and the rest;

[johnnyroper]

That's a good thing as it's clear you have a leak on no2 in to coolant jacket. Exactly same as mine was.
My head was fine when checked with straight edge hopefully yours is same.

[martinrichard]

I'll be checking it tomorrow! 

[martinrichard]

The head gasket I've removed has two holes.
Some of the car-parts-websites think a three-hole will fit an AUY engine
2 hole is 1.53mm
3 hole is 1.61mm
I think I'll fit a 2-hole gasket but am keen to hear opinions/info on this please.

[johnnyroper]

If you are just putting it back on go for same as removed. If you have it skimmed slightly then it will be the 3 hole one.

[martinrichard]

Thank you!
That's clear, and makes sense.
Cheers
Martin

[martinrichard]

Hello Gents,

Puzzled again 
I know that there is a remarkable amount of experience on this forum so am hopeful that someone will have come across this and know what to do.

The new parts have arrived at last and new gasket and cylinder are now back on, but not tightened up yet.

The "inner cam-belt cover" has provided my next problem;
After the head came off, it fell off; whether it was meant to or not.
In replacing it, I cracked it and have ordered an unbroken one.

The problem perhaps, is that the camshaft hub is still attached, and I couldn't get the cover up behind it.

I would like to know if anyone remembers this bit of the procedure and if they do:
1) Does the camshaft hub have to come off?
2) If so, do I need to buy the special puller?
or
3) Is there a technique for getting the rear cam-belt cover on while the camshaft hub is still in place?

Hopefully someone can help me out here, and thank you in advance.

[insanitybeard]

The rear timing belt cover fixing bolt being obscured by the camshaft hub has been mentioned a few times, Johnnyroper's removal technique for the hub is here, or a conventional legged puller is another option as per here. There was/ is a special tool used by dealers I believe but it's not something I think Joe public could lay their hands on.

[johnnyroper]

The hub will need to come off to do the rear cover.
I tried a conventional puller and it would not shift it,my camshaft was out of the head when I did mine so was easy to fit a longer bolt to give a couple of calibrated taps in order to free it.
I am assuming your shaft is still in the head?
You have a few options as I see it.

1. Obtain a puller
2 take head to specialist and see if they will pull it off.
3 take cam out although that would require rocker shaft and cam cap bolts being replaced.

[martinrichard]

I shall start by seeing what I've got that will work as the puller, or borrow one from a friend or, if it comes to it....buy one.

Thank you both.

[mirosti]

And what happened?
Is operation passed sucessfully?

[martinrichard]

Yes, a friend  brought round a puller.
There was a loud crack at one point and that was it, it came apart.

Cylinder head back on now, but not starting yet.
Firstly the battery has deteriorated, but more importantly, the fuel filter valve clip must have fallen off at some point and the filter is leaking fuel, so I think the engine is fuel starved.
Will fix that and re-post.

[martinrichard]

All back together and test-driven today.
I need to get a Spring Type Clip N90781601 for the pipe from the Intercooler to the inlet manifold as somehow that went missing in the repair and popped loudly on the test drive.
Heart in mouth, I realised it wasn't piston-valve contact and limped home. That's one bit of snagging to do!

The other bit of snagging is that in the dark and rain, once I had it all together, the battery failed and I misconnected my jump start leads .
Doh!!
I now have some electrical hiccoughs to sort.
Indicators, hazard warning, central locking - all gone.
Hopefully all replaceable fuses.
I don't suppose anyone on the forum has done anything as silly as this but if you know anything about what might have blown do let me know.
I've come in for the night!
Will look at it tomorrow.

Most importantly its mainly back together and I wouldn't have got there without the amazing help I've had here, so thank you.

[Chrispb]

Check the purple fuse in the battery fuse box.

[martinrichard]

Hi Chrispb,

That was one of my first checks, but I didn't really know what I was doing...

so I went out again and had another look...
...on closer inspection, was there perhaps a hairline crack I hadn't spotted?
So I took it out and checked it on the multimeter and it showed maximum resistance.
Hooray!
I have never been so pleased at a broken fuse.

Thank you!!

[martinrichard]

Hi Chris,
that purple fuse, I'm trying to find out a bit more about it.
It says 3A on it, but doesn't look like the normal blade fuses in the fuse box inside the car.
I'm wondering if there is something special about it I need to know to buy a replacement,
or will a simple 3 Amp blade do the job?
Cheers
Martin

[martinrichard]

Just seen your excellent post on this topic.
and that it's the...

100. Alarm, multifunction modules - fuse

and from your comments elsewhere that it is indeed 3A.
Probably a good thing as it means I might not have fried everything beyond it.

[Chrispb]

Yes it's just a normal 3amp fuse

[martinrichard]

Cheers Chris
That's moved things along a lot; now I'm left with a hazard/indicator problem that prevents me getting it back on the road

Briefly: The hazard lights come on when I indicate!

In detail:
The hazard lights work (all 6 - 2 front 2 back 2 side) when the hazard switch is depressed.
But with Ignition off and Indicator position;
  Left     - there is a beep only
  Centre - nothing ( no light no beep)
  Right   - all lights flash at normal rate, but all 6, like hazard warning and there is a beep

With Ignition on and Indicator position;
  Left      -  left direction indicators flash at normal speed
  Centre  -  left direction indicators flash at normal speed (but shouldn't of course)
  Right    -  all lights flash at normal rate but all 6 (like hazard warning)

If anything, I think that the hazard switch may be a bit stickier than it was so will have a look at that first, but wonder if this points elsewhere to anyone with the knowhow.

Thanks

P.S. Wasn't sure whether I should post here or start a new thread
(ended up doing both - https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy/indicator-and-hazard-warning-light-problem/#sthash.hMSKwZCe.dpbs - hope thats okay)

[martinrichard]

I don't know when its safe to say the job's done, but at the moment the Sharan is ticking over nicely on the driveway while I am going to watch the rugby.
No leaks so far, no nasty noises and electricals sorted.
Road test will happen once I get the insurance sorted again, meanwhile it's undergoing the driveway test and running for 20 minutes.
10 minutes in - all good.

[Chrispb]

I presume it was the hazard switch causing the problem, well done on doing the head keep an extra eye on the coolant level once you start using it again.

[martinrichard]

Thank you Chris

Regarding the head, I'm pleased so far; its now insured, so road test on Wednesday.

as for the electrics, yes it was the hazard switch, not anything I had destroyed!.