Stalling then very hard to start 03 1.9tdi galaxy auto

[johnnyroper]

The aux heater won't really help with your problem in my opinion as it needs engine running to be able to operate and if you are having stalling issues then it won't run.

Have you had vcds on and checked measure blocks to see what the temp sensors are doing?

As for the heater I had a few damaged wires stopping it from working and connecting to diagnostics,ended up chopping plugs off and soldering the heater wiring in to the loom under internal sill trim.
Only way to remove the bolts when like that is to drill them if it was me I would drill enough to remove the head then strip heater apart so you can grip the bolt shaft with mole grips/stud extractor etc.

[Geduk]

The aux heater won't really help with your problem in my opinion as it needs engine running to be able to operate and if you are having stalling issues then it won't run.

Have you had vcds on and checked measure blocks to see what the temp sensors are doing?

As for the heater I had a few damaged wires stopping it from working and connecting to diagnostics,ended up chopping plugs off and soldering the heater wiring in to the loom under internal sill trim.
Only way to remove the bolts when like that is to drill them if it was me I would drill enough to remove the head then strip heater apart so you can grip the bolt shaft with mole grips/stud extractor etc.

As it tends to start then stall after about  a mile and can tick over for about 5 to 10 mins i figure its worth a go and it needs fixing so its worth popping it open and fixing it

Can anyone confirm  the bolt spec so i can get replacements before drill them 

Also would a 22mm water pipe be a good / suitable  thing to bridge the  coolant pipes while i remove the heater?

The coolent and fuel temps are working and going up as it warms  (via vcds)

[johnnyroper]

Cant confirm pipe size required but I think bolt specs may be in the guide in ref library?

Sounds like you could have some fuel run back due to air entering system to me for it to cause miss and stall issues? I have a slight leak from one of the injector seals that causes lumpy start up after being left overnight. Always worse when it's colder aswell.

[Mirez]

Yeah you can temp join with a piece of 22mm copper pipe.

Attached is the parts catalogue for the heater

[Geduk]

Cant confirm pipe size required but I think bolt specs may be in the guide in ref library?

Sounds like you could have some fuel run back due to air entering system to me for it to cause miss and stall issues? I have a slight leak from one of the injector seals that causes lumpy start up after being left overnight. Always worse when it's colder aswell.

oh how did you find / fix the leak that would seam logical

[Geduk]

Yeah you can temp join with a piece of 22mm copper pipe.

Attached is the parts catalogue for the heater

oh thats perfect id not come across that

its thanks to your pdf  the one that includes the wiring diagram / pin out and the instructions on here that have given me the confidence to do the job maybe if you ever re do the pdf  the vcds screen shots with the blocks labled and adding the red wire problem would help more people in the futuer

many thanks

Ged

[johnnyroper]

I tried a couple of ways first I clamped pipes from tank to filter overnight and started it briefly with clamps still on,car ran fine.
I then clamped feed to tandem pump and fitted a piece of fuel hose to the return on tandem pump with a shrader valve in so I could use foot pump to put a few pound of pressure in to system. The pressure dropped off overnight. I swapped tandem pump to elimainate but it made no difference. Also had clear fuel hose on the return so I could physically see air bubbles,came to conclusion I have damaged a seal when I had injectors out.
It's on my list to sort when time permits.

[Mirez]

if you ever re do the pdf  the vcds screen shots with the blocks labled and adding the red wire problem would help more people in the futuer

Did you take screenshots or photos of that wire? We can edit all the RL articles but we need people to assist with the media

[Geduk]

funny i almost took a photo of the broken lead  I will be taking it back off so im happy to take some photos covering the basic continuity test ot the leads and repaire

and ill take some of how i get those two bolts out   out of intrest the M5 x16 and M5 x65 what have people gone for when replacing them Ie torx again allen key or nut ? it seams to me that torx and just not up to the job when it comes to hard to remove bolts

[johnnyroper]

Go for torx or Allen but use stainless ones with plenty of copper grease,the problem comes from a mixture of dissimilar metals and the exposure to the weather along with heating cycles.

[insanitybeard]

I plan to use stainless torx screws from the likes of these guys when I finally get round to installing my new heater unit, and that goes for the various fasteners holding the top covers etc onto the heater itself as well as the fasteners that hold the heater into it's carrier bracket!

[Geduk]

Can someone tell me if this screw is threaded above the cover or will i be able to work the side cover off with the sezed screw in place?

[johnnyroper]

That's threaded in main heat exchanger so the cover should slide off,however it could be tight due to build up of corrosion around the bolt shaft.

[Geduk]

Thanks mate thats what i was hoping  one i get that off i should be able to un screw the thing any requests for  photos while ive got it off fyi 22mm pipe is perfect size for bridging ths coolant

[johnnyroper]

Always good to get some pictures of what you find and do to it then post up a how to for others to use. I am terrible I did loads to mine my galaxy when firsts owning it but never took pics,it is on back burner at present but when I crack on with injector seals and remove/strip and set up turbo I will get pics and do write up.

With the heater you might need to soak in wd40 to loosen the corrosion overnight before trying to pry apart.

[Geduk]

Ended up with using brute force rubber mallet and a screw diver worked quite well tbh

But my fan is seized  up has anyone striped one down before how do you get the fan part off (i mean the plastic fan that is on the mini motor) i cant see how it comes apart

[johnnyroper]

I took my combustion fan apart as it was seized,not the easiest to strip as it required the metal tabs bending back to prise case apart. Harder still getting back together.
My advise is spary some wd40 on bearing at each end and leave overnight to penetrate then try turning it.

[Geduk]

Did/ dose the plasic fan pull off or unscrew  and if so clock wise or anti clock wise i dont think wd40 will do the trick its it got a grinding sound like something is stuck under the plastic fan but if i can find more wd40 ill give it a go

Ive nothing to lose im not paying Ã,£200  for a new fan assembly

[insanitybeard]

The plastic fan rotor/ impeller runs very close to the aluminium housing with only a small amount of clearance and the aluminium housings/ castings due to their exposed position where the heater is mounted underneath the car can corrode and 'fur up' with a layer of white oxide, it's possible it's corrosion of the alloy which has removed the clearance between the rotor and casting and caused it to become seized.

[johnnyroper]

The impeller just pulls off if I remember correctly,but as Paul said clearance is very limited.
Does it spin when out of heater by hand? Mine was free to spin but when fitted was stuck,I shimmed out the cover with small washers to give some clearance.

[Geduk]

No it will go round but with some force required if i power the motor with 12v i can here it trying to turn but i will not ill have to pull it off then

[johnnyroper]

If the bearing is knackered it can be removed as I had them off mine,maybe able to get a number off them and source replacements online? Certainly far cheaper than cost of new combustion motor!