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The big work happens

Started by egg, August 02, 2016, 07:07:30 PM

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August 07, 2016, 10:38:47 AM #50
Mine was blowing oil out of the vent hole aswell so threw the lot away,also less vac pipes to split and cause problems.

You can wind the egr down if you have full vcds.
August 07, 2016, 01:10:42 PM #51
This is where i read it, half way down the site:
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/tdi.html

It says directly copy/paste:
"These procedures do NOT apply to the PD engines, which use a completely different type of EGR system and for which there is no known modification. !"

Anyone know if this will work or not on our PD engines?
August 07, 2016, 02:39:08 PM #52
hi..if the egr valve  sticks in open position..then play with the wee arm or use screwdriver to move the valve in closed position..
as far as i know from my previous experience .. yes there is possibility to reduce the performance of the egr to minim on pd engine using vcds.
thnx..
August 07, 2016, 02:41:33 PM #53
I read on the golf site egr can be turned right down on PD engines,no personal experience though as I have not got one. Sure I have seen it in the software while playing around?
August 07, 2016, 04:27:31 PM #54 Last Edit: August 07, 2016, 04:31:10 PM by alial
using vcds to tweak egr
Select engine control  and login using 12233 ..then select adaptation and go to block 3. the default value is 32768 .... enter 33768 and click test and then save ....

thnx and i hope this will help.
August 10, 2016, 12:19:55 PM #55
Sorry i havn't got back for a few days, the sky's opened along with high winds, so the marquee was no use. Plus been getting everything ready for the road trip. Over in England now, so the Big work is on ice for 2 weeks until i get back. Gonna be buying up bits and getting ready though, not half as nervous thanks for this forum. Really grateful for all the advice and tips. When i get organised i'll get loads of pics coming, i'll probably need advice on the gasket so i'll post everything up.  cheers
As you slide down the banister of life, may the splinters never face the wrong way.
September 02, 2016, 10:08:01 AM #56
Hi all, back again. 

When people say it rains in Ireland don't believe them.. It never stops.
However yesterday evening a blue sky appeared out of nowhere, and today is fresh and sunny, perfect.

Got the oil feed pipe off and the turbo/manifold off last night along with the timing belt. 

Head is coming off today, fingers crossed.

When i disconnected the sleeve for the glow plugs, the left hand plastic is smashed. Will i just repair this with epoxy, or replace?

Pics to follow.

8-)
As you slide down the banister of life, may the splinters never face the wrong way.
September 02, 2016, 10:11:43 AM #57
Good luck getting he head off today make most of the nice blue skies.

Did the turbo come out easy with shaft off?

If you mean the plastic part over the connector that pushes on to glow plug.  Yes repair with epoxy or insulation tape would be what I would do,doubt you will get a new one as part of loom it would be trawling scrap yards looking for a PD lump to take one off.
September 02, 2016, 10:16:55 AM #58
Apart from the Nuts being seized and some very tricky angle grinding lol, the turbo came out. As you said if the drive shaft was on, it would be almost impossible. Have to get to the dealers to get some replacement  nuts and bolts etc unless you can recommend a cheaper alternative online?  :P :P

Good old epoxy will fix that up a treat.

Time to crack on...
As you slide down the banister of life, may the splinters never face the wrong way.
September 02, 2016, 10:45:49 AM #59
If all else fails you can actually buy the glow plug connector rail as a repair part from VW without having to replace loads of wiring loom- VW part no is 038 971 782B, I bought one for about 25 odd quid as my old one has broken up although the actual cables are still ok. Still haven't fitted the damn thing though!  :-[
Always learning..... Often by mistakes!
September 02, 2016, 10:57:17 AM #60
Its only one of the sleeves so i think a repair will suffice.

Quick question. When untightening the head bolts, is there a sequence? Bearing in mind i gave them all another 90 degree turn to see did it help.

All i have now is the head bolts to do then all will be revealed.

Thanks.
As you slide down the banister of life, may the splinters never face the wrong way.
September 02, 2016, 11:11:08 AM #61
Did you say you bought a Haynes? The removal sequence is on page 2B.11 in my copy.
Always learning..... Often by mistakes!
September 02, 2016, 11:15:57 AM #62
Yeah i have an Haynes. Was just looking for the page. thanks Insanitybeard,  ;)
As you slide down the banister of life, may the splinters never face the wrong way.
September 02, 2016, 01:02:36 PM #63 Last Edit: September 02, 2016, 01:04:51 PM by egg
Head is now off :D just looking at the gasket now. Pics aren't that great. Camera has decided to not accept my memory cards.











Now am i seeing some blow through 2 and the water jacket?

As you slide down the banister of life, may the splinters never face the wrong way.
September 02, 2016, 02:55:56 PM #64
September 02, 2016, 02:58:36 PM #65
No3 is nice and clean looking pretty much how no2 on mine was. Can see where it was blowing by from cylinder to rear coolant jacket.

I would straight edge the head and if all on fire back on with new gasket and bolts.
Just make sure you give faces an thorough clean with scraper,then some wet and dry starting from a medium to course grit working down to a fine grit.
September 02, 2016, 03:13:58 PM #66
Quote from: johnnyroper on September 02, 2016, 02:55:56 PM
Is it just the m8 studs and nuts you need that hold manifold on to head?

If so you will be able to get them online cheaper than dealer.

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8-x-37-Manifold-Studs-Brass-Nuts-ZINC-Plated-Inlet-Exhaust-Select-Qty-/390922212660?var=&hash=item5b04c79534%3Am%3Am4uYTrT6h7PjOuala4fw6oQ&_trkparms=pageci%253Aa7f7d433-7114-11e6-b745-74dbd18005dc%257Cparentrq%253Aeb2d2b891560a7944d35d6edfff8248a%257Ciid%253A14

Sound thanks Johnnyroper.

There's a few other bits and bobs i need as well like the crankshaft sprocket bolts, and some other hex bolts that got chewed when dismantling the egr etc. Just waiting for the missus to get back from the little ones first day at school induction. Then i'd better make most of the weather. 

Thanks for the advice. Will i clean the faces of the valves and pistons, or leave them alone? I'll have to take some gunk out that has fell in anyways.
As you slide down the banister of life, may the splinters never face the wrong way.
September 02, 2016, 03:15:41 PM #67
Use wd40 when flatting faces. After give it all a good clean with brake cleaner and paper towel on faces and in bores.
September 02, 2016, 06:00:05 PM #68
certainly number one cylinder has water marks across the face.
Corrosion can eat away around the waterways adjacent to the surface area's of the block and head
When you have cleaned block face and are satisfied there is no damage to the block surface you can then concentrate on the cylinder head.

Head face can be skimmed if need be but pointless if block face is showing signs of erosion.
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September 02, 2016, 07:16:32 PM #69
Had another look at the pictures and it seems to me like it has been run on neat water at some point with the corrosion down jackets.

Before filling with fresh vag coolant mix I would do some flushing of the system.
September 03, 2016, 09:02:26 AM #70
I intend to flush it out. When or how would be the best way? Would it be wise to do this before i change the water pump?

Rain pouring down here again.  :(
As you slide down the banister of life, may the splinters never face the wrong way.
September 03, 2016, 08:04:48 PM #71
If it was me I would get up and running again with new pump etc then fill system with fresh water and this stuff and run it up.

When draining down take aux heater pipes off to remove as much as possible. Then run hose pipe through to remove residue and drain again before final filling with coolant.
September 06, 2016, 08:44:41 AM #72
Personally, I would not use abrasive paper on this job.  Wet and dry is designed for the abrasive to come free and be rubbed (in a liquid film) between the paper and the surface.  You will certainly get some of that free abrasive into the engine, whether it is oil ways, water ways or between the bore and piston.  My own belief is that you will never be able to clean every particle out and will then be left with the possibility of excessive wear.

To make a scraper, take a short length of 15mm copper pipe, hammer one end flat and file a sharp edge on it.  Resharpen as necessary.  Hard enough to remove deposits, not hard enough (in reasonably careful use) to damage alloy surfaces.
September 06, 2016, 11:37:20 AM #73
Personally I have done it for years it is standard practise in garages to clean up the faces carefully either and dry to give a nice clean and polished surface to accept new gasket.
It is even recommended by the manufacturer as part of head gasket procedure,if it was as bad as you say I don't imagine they would put it down as part of the procedure.

That's my personal opinion and it is very much each to their own but I have never had any issues doing it this way.
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