Help needed for the Auxiliary Heating

[dark_angel_tgv]

Hello from Romania,guys! I have an 2006 VW Sharan 1.9TDI, with ASZ engine code. It has the Eberspracher D5Z-F installed (well, not really, I took it off to repair it 2 years ago, and didnt had time for it untill now). As the winter is aproaching, I want to try and ressurect my auxiliary heating, because here, the winter is very cold, and I don't want to freeze in the car untill it heats up, like in the last years.
I am starting repairs, and so far I have repaired the run on pump, with the help of one topic from this site . I also did something to help the brushes last longer, I've put a switch on the positive wire of the pump, and mounted it near the gear leaver. Now i can turn on and off the little pump without geting dirty strugling to take off the plug from the pump .
I also wanted to bypass the temperature sensor located under the windshield wiper linkage, and to put a switch like the one for the auxiliary pump, next to the gear shifter too, but I think I have encountered a problem. After cutting the sensor, I tested the 2 wires that were on the sensor with the multimeater, and I am not getting 12 volts. I get a value of 0.06V, even when I start the engine. Is it the normal value, or are the sensor cables broken or something? when i put the multimeter on that 2 wires and check for continuity, i get no read. so, I think there is a problem with the sensor cables.
Where else in the car can I find the wires that go to the sensor, to connect my switch? I dont know where to look for them elsewhere, but under the windshild whipers...
another problem, I scanned the car with VCDS, and found this error:
01413 - Dosing/Metering Pump (V54)
            29-00 - Short to Ground
tomorrow, i will try to get under the car and remove the pump, to see if i can do something to repair it. does it matter which way i put the 2 plugs(+ and -) back on the pump?
and the last question, if I want to change my D5Z-F heater with other model, what model do you guys advise me to use?will it fit, or do I have to do modifications on it?is the plug with the cables the same on all models of heaters?I hope it will not be a hard to adapt. Here where I live, there are no good mecanics for these heaters, and I will have to go about 400 km to someone qualified for them, if I want him to install a new heater, so I prefer to do it miself, with your help, ofcourse  
I posted an image of the switch i made for the run on pump(I should have ussed an iluminated switch, but maybe I will do so when i get tired of this one).sorry for writing mistakes, I am not that good at writing in english, as it's not my native language. hope someone can help me...

[johnnyroper]

It should have 12v there I know this because I bridged the feed on mine to power illuminated switch. I traced the wiring back to writhing loom going to engine ECU by the battery.

The dosing pump pump could well be wiring related as it is in an exposed area I would check for breaks etc first.

With that heater chances are the control unit is at fault you could change just ecu or unit as a while,I thing it is possible to retrofit the older one but you would need the mounting bracket that goes with it aswell

[dark_angel_tgv]

thanks for the answer Johnny! so, this means the cables of the temperature sensor are broken somewhere on the wiring harness  and cant be seen...this makes me sad, and also makes it harder to get this thing working. is there anywhere in the car where I can find the 2 wires that go to the sensor? what color should they be?

[Chrispb]

Fuse 3 supplies the temp switch but also supplies other units but worth a look

[johnnyroper]

I cannot remember the wire colours all I did was trace back from the temp switch to the main harness by ecu,if you check the fuse and that's ok then trace them back to loom. I would imagine if there is a fault it will be on the small section from main loom to temp switch.

[joka]

temp switch wire color
[attachimg=1]

[Chrispb]

Fuse 3 supplies the temp switch but also supplies other units but worth a look

You do need to have your booster plugged in when checking voltage at pump and temp switch, also be aware that the D5Z-F control unit is prone to giving out false info when scanning with VCDS

[dark_angel_tgv]

Thanks for the answers,everybody! Today, a guy on a romanian VAG forum, PM me some informations concerning the temperature sensor for the aux. heaters.
I will post the informations here,if you want to use it too. I find this to be easier than removing alot of things from the engine bay, just to access the sensor. the words I use will not be the best,as I wasn't that good at english, but I hope the pictures will clarify what I am trying to explain here, to you :
- first thing, remove the + lead from the car battery ( i like to remove both leads, + and -, when working on my car electrical system).
- place yourself on the driver side of the car
- remove the plastic from the rear passager interior step, the one behind the driver seat
- you will now see a thick electric harness
- remove the insolation from it a little bit, and you should see part of the harness,descending thru a hole, under the car, to the aux heater.
- on the harness descending to the auxiliary heater, you will only need to use the following 2 wires to bypass the temperature sensor: the thin all black wire, and the thick red/white wire. the black wire is the sensor wire, and the red/white one is 12V.
-Cut the black wire in half, and connect one of the leads from your desired switch to the part of the black wire that goes down to the auxiliary heater. dont forget to insulate the other half of the black wire with some electrical tape or something else.
-remove some insolation from the red/white wire and connect the other lead of your desired switch.
Congrats, you have now bypassed the temperature sensor! I didnt had time to connect my switch to the 2 wires today, but maybe i will do it tomorrow. I think that with this metod, you will have all time 12V on your switch, even with the engine off!
Hope this helps someone!

[dark_angel_tgv]

Today my new control unit had arrived, together with the gasket kit. I changed the faulty control unit, then i installed the heater on the car. First, i've done an output test with vcds. All was ok no error from the heater. But when i started the heater, my car filled with smoke from the heater. All the exhaust gases from the heater,are entering the car thru the admision pipe.no exhaust gases thru the exhaust pipe(the exhaust pipe is not bloked or anything).i get no error code from the heater! Why is this happening and how can i fix it.thank you!

[johnnyroper]

I had that happen with mine the combustion fan had reversed polarity so was running  backwards,at the time I simply chopped the wires and swapped them round to solve it.

Are you sure the intake and exhaust pipes have been fitted back on properly?

[dark_angel_tgv]

I will have to check the polarity then. The pipes are installed properly,they doesnt fit the other way around. Anyone know the proper way the wires inside the heater fit in the plug that inserts in the control unit?i am refearing to the glowplug,sensors,fan.

[dark_angel_tgv]

A picture with the proper order the wires fit in the plug that go on the control unit from the sensors,fan,glowplug wold help me alot!

[johnnyroper]

Here you go circuit diagram. 1.1 is combustion fan.

[dark_angel_tgv]

It finally works! For some reason, the electric fan in my heater, was turning the wrong way, when it's cables where installed ,,like in the factory,,. this caused the heater to blow exhaust gases in the car, thru the admission pipe, and sucking air thru the exhaust. I switched the cables (the black one where the brown was, and the brown where the black one was),and it is working as it should. Thank you guys, with your help I have a working aux heater!

[johnnyroper]

Was it wired in plug wrong or just the motor went reverse polarity like my old one did?
Is it the existing heater or a new one?

[dark_angel_tgv]

It went reversed polarity,I think. Actually,the one currently on the car is a second hand one,bougt for spare parts when i tried fixing mine.Paid for it 30 euros:).as it was in much better condition than mine,I just bought new seals,that metal mesh that surrounds the glowplug and new control unit.I cleaned it very good and painted it with heat resistant paint.

[johnnyroper]

Very weird how they can just go reverse,mine wasn't working originally I replaced glow plug and it was fine then few days later fan reversed. I swapped wires round and it has been fine for nearly 2 years before dying totally. New fitted sonthat works just got to change glow plug and mesh now.

[dark_angel_tgv]

They are so unrelieble,and exepensive to fix...but damn,it's so good to have heat in the car on those cold winter days...