mk 1 turbo replacement

[cravenbiker]

Hi all, first time posting to this site.

based in Portugal, have a 1999 seat alhambra mk1 1.9 tdi.
Turbo gone and after doinf fuel pum re seal and bleed the motor threw itself up to redline before i had to stall the engine to shut it down. on removal of air intake pipe it was apparent that the turbo is Pi**ing oil and that somemthing has to be done about it to save me doing 4000 rpm everywhere i go 

I couldnt find any SEARCH features on this forum which i thought was unusual (maybe i just havnt managed to find it yet) and my haynes manual that i bought yesterday will not arrive for another 5 days (next time i buy a vehicle before i go to insurance site im going to Haynes manual site to buy a manual) so need some guidance on how to drop the turbo/ turbo and manifold.

obviously it would be nice not to have to drop the engine like on the MK2

hope someone can point me in the right direction....

T

[johnnyroper]

You wonââ,¬â,,¢t have to drop engine,I didnââ,¬â,,¢t on my mark 2.
If itââ,¬â,,¢s anything like the mark 2 you can just about get it out the top but itââ,¬â,,¢s easier to remove the driveshaft and drop it from down below.

Have a look in ref library I am sure thereââ,¬â,,¢s a write up in there

[cravenbiker]

Thanks jhonny.

I had a look and found the mk2 write up. dismissed as i thought it would be different on the mk1. ill take another look and try it practically.

T

[Chrispb]

Search button is on the top line, you can't miss it

[cravenbiker]

Search button is on the top line, you can't miss it

Yeah, not seen it on all the pages  (using mac don't know if that makes a difference?). found it since original post and used it to find the thread on the Mk2 turbo removal. just come in for some lunch while in the middle of the removal (kids to feed) and it seems similar to the mk2 but with some small differences.

be back later with progress if it helps.

T

[brianh]

Yeah, not seen it on all the pages  (using mac don't know if that makes a difference?). found it since original post and used it to find the thread on the Mk2 turbo removal. just come in for some lunch while in the middle of the removal (kids to feed) and it seems similar to the mk2 but with some small differences.

be back later with progress if it helps.

T

I suspect you can only see search once your logged in, that might be why you couldn't find it as this forum does sign you out every so often.

[cravenbiker]

Right, found the SEARCH button, I wasn't looking high enough! Panic over.

So I managed to get the turbo off after 5 hours of knuckle scraping and rounding off of some cheap 12mm spanners where my sockets couldn't get to. turns out that the process is the same as the mk2 after all. I ended up removing the Inlet manifold in the end as it made it easier for me to get to the lower bolts of the exhaust manifold.

Not yet managed to get the drive shaft out but that is the next job. I went against recommendations and tried for 30mins to get the turbo and manifold through the gap above the rocker cover and also through the gap where the exhaust exits the engine bay. Needless to say , It doesn't go without dismantling.

Thanks very much for the information on this site. without which I would have been there for at least 10 hrs.
Now all i need to do is see where the turbo has failed (Im guessing seals but I could be wrong) and get it reconditioned?buy new reconditioned one.

would excess oil in the air system not throw up an error code?

T

[cravenbiker]

trying to get a grip on the driveshaft removal and looking through the tutorial here byInsanityBeard
It looks as though there may be some variations on the removal process between the Mk1 and Mk2. can anyone confirm this?
Im not able to get to my motor at the moment to see but would like tohave a plan of attack by the time i return back to it tomorrow.

Thank you

T

[cravenbiker]

gave up with the drive shaft removal and took the turbo off of the exhaust manifold. tricky but easier than undoing the drive shaft at the time and i had time against me as i had to get the turbo problem diagnosed.
took the turbo off and the turbine on the inlet side was completely knackered. the shaft had snapped and vanes had obviously completely churned up.

anyone had any experience with this happening and have an idea why this could have happened? I'm thinking something passed into the air intake or ran dry of oil at some point? I just don't know.

I found a company in Lisbon that will collect the turbo tomorrow and refurbish and send it back 250eur including the transport costs. (obviously this includes parts too).

meanwhile, back to a major clean out of all air system and intercooler as I'm sure that its possible some of all of that shredded turbine has entered into the intercooler if it wasn't clogged in the pipes en-route to the intercooler.

anyway, good news is that its warm and sunny and I'm able to do the job on my drive.

T

[johnnyroper]

Snapping of shaft is normally as a result of loss of oil,replace oil feed and return pipes or at very least clean and make sure they are not blocked.
Change oil and filter also.
Unplug the injector loom and crank engine to make sure engine is pumping oil through the feed line,when recon turbo is back on leave return pipe off and crank engine with injector loom unplugged until oil flows out. Then put return back on before starting up properly.

Best practice to replace air filter at same time as turbo aswell.

[cravenbiker]

Merry Xmas to all

So I fitted the sparkly new looking turbo to the manifold and went back through the rebuild process with all the newly cleaned pipes and oil feeds/returns, new oil, cleaned sump and oil lifter mesh and replaced the gasket on sump, new sump plug washer, new oil filter, new air filter, new turbo inlet pipe (the previous owner hadn't put both of the pipe connecting bolts in and it had worn and snapped possibly the cause of the turbine smashing to pieces.

The problem that i have now seems to be that the pipe that fits onto the inlet side of the turbo that fits to the turbo with two screws does not line up. i'm guessing that when the turbo was reconditioned that they sent it back to me with the inlet side of the turbo slightly turned to severel degrees further clockwise than it was originally. they have marked the retaining bolts for the inlet side all with tippex, is this as they knew that the inlet side would need adjusting in order to line up with the inlet pipe? The turbo was sent to them in pieces and not complete and im guessing again that this is a reason that the turbo may not have been sent back in the position that it would have been mounted originally.

My question/s is; is there play in this side of the turbo? is this something that would be needed to be adjusted when fitting? if this is an adjustment that needs to be made can anyone point me in the direction of a post that would help me do this. I don't want to bodge a perfectly good piece of reconditioning by undoing the retaining bolts and do some damage when i am potentially looking in the wrong area for my solution.

I will be spending my xmas repairing our only other vehicle which is a Fiat Doblo whose clutch master cylinder went yesterday. with no shops open here til 3rd January, it might be a lot of use of the bicycles for us and the kids if i cant get the turbo sorted )

have a great day everybody and i look forward to any suggestions.

[cravenbiker]

Snapping of shaft is normally as a result of loss of oil,replace oil feed and return pipes or at very least clean and make sure they are not blocked.
Change oil and filter also.
Unplug the injector loom and crank engine to make sure engine is pumping oil through the feed line,when recon turbo is back on leave return pipe off and crank engine with injector loom unplugged until oil flows out. Then put return back on before starting up properly.

Best practice to replace air filter at same time as turbo aswell.

Took your advice johnny and managed to temp. locate the inlet pipe and filter set up to the turbo and cranked it with oil return pipe disconnected at the oil sump while i bled the injector feed pipes (replaced the injector supply pipe). oil flowed cleanly through the return and didnt p155 out of the exhaust side of the turbo this time! after this cranked the car with injectors and oil return pipe connected and she fired up and sounded sweet. small amount of smoke that was possibly in the system somewhere from the last incidendt but this smoke from exhaust subsided after a few seconds.

now just to sort this inlet pipe issue and we are good to go. next job, Cambelt and tensioner replacement!!

[johnnyroper]

The inlet pipe issue just needs the bolts loosening and the ally housing rotating slightly so it lines up with the intake pipe bolts holes.

[johners1949]

Hi, if your turbo is a KKK/Borg Warner model, there is a large circlip under the compressor
housing which needs to be squeezed enough to rotate the housing. if its a Garrett turbo the it has
6 small bolts as suggested by johnnyroper.

[cravenbiker]

Hi, if your turbo is a KKK/Borg Warner model, there is a large circlip under the compressor
housing which needs to be squeezed enough to rotate the housing. if its a Garrett turbo the it has
6 small bolts as suggested by johnnyroper.

Hi, yes managed to "clock" this in the end. it was a garret and i had to undo the bolts as you said.

Turbo seems to be working fine but i have other issues now which i think relate to the Injector loom or air between pump and injectors. all with the added problem of coolant leak an faulty sensor somewhere......

I really need to get a scan done but i don't know where to start. will have a look later on which cables i need to buy to have a crack at the vcds scan.

[cravenbiker]

Hi, if your turbo is a KKK/Borg Warner model, there is a large circlip under the compressor
housing which needs to be squeezed enough to rotate the housing. if its a Garrett turbo the it has
6 small bolts as suggested by johnnyroper.

and by the way for anyone else looking at this make sure that you undo the bolts on the air filter inlet pipe side of the turbo and not the other side to turn the inlet port to the right angle. unless you know how to rebuild the turbo. in which case you probably don't need to be told which bolts not to undo.....