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Electrics failing- too many to list

Started by ecoman, November 04, 2012, 03:03:40 PM

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Hi all
My wife's Galaxy '02 1.9Tdi 115 Ghia has developed all manner of electrical faults.
This all started with the dashboard clock stopping and alarm going off at random intervals. The central locking locks all but the drivers door and the fuel filler cap is locked opposite to the car. Within a few weeks the alternator packed up and had a new Voltage Regulator fitted. The battery was replaced too as the car was draining it overnight. Shortly after the "Alternator Workshop" light started to come on and then off again. The Dashboard would cut out and all dials reset to zero whilst driving and at the same time the windscreen wipers and electric windows stopped working. It would start working again on its own! The ABS dashboard light comes on occasionally and resets after one occasion the airbag light illuminated and then has remained on.

The rear compartment lights are intermittent and it probably has frayed wires in the tailgate as the tailgate wiper comes on of its own accord.

The auxiliary fusebox under bonnet looks OK in that there aren't any signs of burnt wiring. One thing I've noticed is when the alternator workshop light appears there is a clicking from a relay in the driver fusebox! I had wondered whether the new Voltage Regulator was dodgy.

Will attend to the tailgate as soon as I can but I wondered whether there were any suggestions as to the dash etc.

thanking you all in advance (as my wife is dreading being without the car for any length of time)!



Hello Ecoman
[W4] My that's a big shopping list, fortunately some are dependent on battery voltage so making sure the alternator is charging correctly is a must, so checking battery voltage with engine running should be round about 14.4 volts, and with all lights heaters etc on shouldn't drop below 14 to 14.2, and while your checking this lift the cover on the auxiliary fuse box and put your fingers on the two large wires, if they feel even slightly warm then there is a high resistance in the crimp.
Depending on severity replace crimps soldering on new ones or as I did solder the old ones using a blow lamp.

Your next problem will most certainly be door gaiter wiring, mostly drivers door but don't rule out the other doors and indeed the tailgate, all causing the problems you list.

Always disconnect the battery while working here

Also can you change your profile details as your car will be a MK2 not MK1 if it's an 02 reg
2016 Vauxhall Insignia Elite Nav in White 2.0CDTI Manual.
2023 VW Transporter T6.1 SE In Silver 2.9TDI 150PS. 7 Speed DSG Wheelchair accessible day vehicle.


With VCDS lite (full version) need a code clearing or want to scan for faults in the north kent area, PM me. All for a pint of Strongbow.

Thanks Chris- will check as you suggest and have altered profile accordingly.

Is there a strip down on the tail gate? I can see lots of people have referred to it in posts and I've just ordered a Haynes, but another members write-up would be just as good (I'll also do my own when I get around to it).

thanks


You need to pull through as much of the loom as possible and cut out the bad sections and solder in new sections of cable don't just cut and rejoin as this will not last, also avoid having joints in the gaiter.
You may need to remove the  door card to unclip the loom in the door, just depends how much slack cable there is.
The heat shrink joint is the best, ordinary crimping connectors tend to be to bulky for this area.

Feel free to do a write up and pics would be good.
2016 Vauxhall Insignia Elite Nav in White 2.0CDTI Manual.
2023 VW Transporter T6.1 SE In Silver 2.9TDI 150PS. 7 Speed DSG Wheelchair accessible day vehicle.


With VCDS lite (full version) need a code clearing or want to scan for faults in the north kent area, PM me. All for a pint of Strongbow.