Welcome to BigCarClub!

Site Notification:

BigCarClub is now closed to registrations. Whilst it remains available online, the site is now an archive only and will eventually expire.
Thank you to all our members who contributed over the years!

Not logged in!

Hey there, welcome to BigCarClub!
You don't need to be logged in to view the forum but the experience will be so much better if you are! Users can login or if you don't have an account already, you can create one for free by clicking the Register link in the top right corner of this page.

Advert:

New Motomax gearbox axle stub is really hard to refit.

Started by mrhiviz, June 20, 2015, 04:07:53 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Greetings.

I have been working on the RH side driveshafts after deliberating for about a year! I splashed out on a Motomax inner set (268 euros delivered) and a Spidian GKN exchange recon outer. ( 130 euros delivered plus 27 deposit for exchange.)

Incidentally, the old driveshaft seems to have been butchered in the past so I hope they won't reject it!)

I know the inner stub is supposed to be hard work to refit, but I am really struggling.  It fits well enough without the spring, washer and collar so I assume my weedy 90 Kg frame isn't applying enough ooomf. I used a bit of wood against the bearing casting off the block and  even made up a wee tool from a bit of steel fence and and screwed rods into the threads in the diff casting which appear to be for a special tool. No dice. I guess I can get about 5 mm of movement and the splines certainly seem to be engage. Any sympathetic comments greatly received.

Have a good Weekend and Fathers day. ( I got a new torque wrench!)

Can you get the shaft fully home without the spring? Do all the replacement components match the old ones- no obvious differences in dimensions, thicknesses etc that could cause any issues?
Always learning..... Often by mistakes!

Hi.

It definitely fits in completely when I try the stub without the original spring and washer etc.The new brass collar is identical to the Old.  I've even made some alignment marks to be sure the splines are engaged. I was wondering whether I should jack up the nearside so that the diff has a chance to move about a bit.

If I really can't do it, I may well try and put the original shaft back on as it actually wasn't in terrible condition despite the rust evidence. It may well have been replaced before.

Cheers

L

Photo of New(L) vs Old stub (R). The shoulder at the base looks much deeper on the new one.

The old one goes back in deeper more easily. I am now using a bit of 2" dia steel tube as a leaver against the bearing casting bolted onto the block with my back against the inside of the NS tyre! My 8 year old has been trying to get the cap head in whilst I apply the pressure. I am waiting for a mate to come over this afternoon and give me a hand.

Have you tried putting the old one back in with spring etc (just as a test) to see if that goes back in without major trauma?
Always learning..... Often by mistakes!

Yes. (That is what I did in the last post.) I am going to try and refit that this afternoon.  Now I've cleaned it up, it looks pretty new. Might as well get some more life out of it.

I've just noticed a typo. For leaver, read lever in my last post!



If I have any more troubles. I'm breaking out the explosives.

If you can refit the old components without major aggro then there must be some kind of difference to cause the issue, admittedly the spline profile and length is different between the old and new parts, though looking at Mirez's pictures from his article where his original shafts were replaced with Motomax ones there were also differences. Like you say the  shoulder is also different. Mark (Mirez) would be the better person to give guidance here as he has done this job.
Always learning..... Often by mistakes!

Well, Halle-flipping-luyah! I have just got the original back in unaided using the special tool wot I done made. This allowed me to use a short allen key on the capscrew Anyone have a torque setting for the capscrew in the gearbox stub?

There is always the possibility that the new one was perfectly well seated and the capscrew wasn't lined up properly for my able assistants to do up whilst I was hanging on to the prybar!


Anyways. Thanks to Paul for all your input. I've just been for a little run and the inner joint is showing a couple of mm of play and has been well cleaned and greased. Should last a while longer. The outer though has really improved the drive. I'l need to do the transmission Oil another day as the Nearest ford dealer closes on Friday for the weekend! I'll have a chat with Motomax to see if there may be a problem,

Thanks again and enjoy the evening.

Message ends....

Ahh sorry, missed this one.

Good work with the tool, I do remember it being a PITA to get enough pressure on to allow the allen bolt to be done back up. From what I recall I used a long length of wood to lever against a ratchet type allen key but it wasn't easy!  Certainly your tool looks a lot more professional that my bit of old door frame lol.

Changing the gearbox oil is a great idea and in my case, improved the shifts significantly. My only note would be to buy it from VW/SEAT and not Ford as they'll get it from VAG but put their markup on it!
03 Ford Galaxy 1.9 TDI 115 Ghia in Spruce Green Metallic
With cream leather interior, Full Bodykit, Remapped at 145bhp, Lowered on 18's
17 Volkswagen Touareg 3.0 V6 Diesel in Slate Blue
262Bhp AWD and Factory fresh...for now!
58 Ford Transit 2.2 TDI 115 in Frozen White
With retrofitted everything except another slidey door! :)
LAUNCH X431 Pad PRO - Scanning & Coding for all makes and models done in Wiltshire in exchange for winegums! :)

hanks for the tip about the Oil. I'll go to both dealers and compare prices.

Cheers

L