Hi.
I've just noticed that on my 2005 car, the thingybob-whojamaflip has a burned out connection, so I want and looked at my friend's 2005 car and they are different! (Although mine is a 130 and his is a 115)
On mine, there is a red wire missing but no damage to the loom that it should go into and no option to connect there - what is missing?
Also, the Aux. heater on mine has a broken off exhaust pipe but on removal of both units, they are again, completely different, with different mounting points and different electrical connection plugs. I'll put this query in a separate post but are the 2 anomalies related in any way?
My 2005 130 tdi
(http://[url=http://s1149.photobucket.com/user/JennyTaylia/media/Car%20Stuff/IMG_0033_zps3f7b437f.jpg.html%5D%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o600/JennyTaylia/Car%20Stuff/IMG_0033_zps3f7b437f.jpg)[/URL][/img]
Other 2005 115 Tdi
(http://[url=http://s1149.photobucket.com/user/JennyTaylia/media/Car%20Stuff/IMG_0032_zpsedf4dfa5.jpg.html%5D%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o600/JennyTaylia/Car%20Stuff/IMG_0032_zpsedf4dfa5.jpg)[/URL][/img]
Can't work out how to add pictures to a post - help!
Also can't see how to edit!
Is it me? ;D
Here's the one on the 2005 130 bhp tdi
(http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o600/JennyTaylia/Car%20Stuff/IMG_0032_zpsedf4dfa5.jpg) (http://s1149.photobucket.com/user/JennyTaylia/media/Car%20Stuff/IMG_0032_zpsedf4dfa5.jpg.html)
NO IT'S NOT (Sorry folks) :-[
This is the 115bhp one:
(http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o600/JennyTaylia/Car%20Stuff/IMG_0032_zpsedf4dfa5.jpg) (http://s1149.photobucket.com/user/JennyTaylia/media/Car%20Stuff/IMG_0032_zpsedf4dfa5.jpg.html)
this is the 130bhp one
(http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o600/JennyTaylia/Car%20Stuff/IMG_0033_zps3f7b437f.jpg) (http://s1149.photobucket.com/user/JennyTaylia/media/Car%20Stuff/IMG_0033_zps3f7b437f.jpg.html)
Read this thread.-->https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/technical/battery-junction-boxengine-bay-fuse-boxalternator-cable-failure/msg1409/#msg1409 (https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/technical/battery-junction-boxengine-bay-fuse-boxalternator-cable-failure/msg1409/#msg1409)
From what I can make out, the cable appears to have been bodged back together and routed directly to the battery!! Check what they have done under all that insulation tape as there is a high risk of fire here, especially as it appears they have by-passed a fuse in the process! :o
Basically the wire from your alternator should go into the top fuseable link (that's what the plates are between each of the bolts). This one is 150Amps! This then feeds power into the battery via the red wire, as well as the rest of the electrical system.
The crimps from the cable to the connection plate are poor and fail. This causes a high resistance and due to the high currents involved everything heats up and melts the fusebox eventually. Your mates is also failing by the look of it.
Mine did too (as in the link). I got a fusebox and alternator wire from ebay, celaned up all the connections and then soldered the connectors to the cable using a soldering iron tip on my blowtorch. I still have my pictures and need to do the how to for Mirez!
Quote from: Mirez on September 24, 2013, 07:00:01 PM
From what I can make out, the cable appears to have been bodged back together and routed directly to the battery!! Check what they have done under all that insulation tape as there is a high risk of fire here, especially as it appears they have by-passed a fuse in the process! :o
You worried me with the word "Fire" so I went out to investigate and it has indeed been joined and diverted straight to the battery. (I assume that this black lead should attach to the battery junction box, where it is burned out!)
Do you know what the "Missing" red wire is for?
(http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o600/JennyTaylia/Car%20Stuff/dodgeywiring001_zps362d04f4.jpg) (http://s1149.photobucket.com/user/JennyTaylia/media/Car%20Stuff/dodgeywiring001_zps362d04f4.jpg.html)
(http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o600/JennyTaylia/Car%20Stuff/dodgeywiring002_zps661d2fa8.jpg) (http://s1149.photobucket.com/user/JennyTaylia/media/Car%20Stuff/dodgeywiring002_zps661d2fa8.jpg.html)
To repair, should I split the bodged joint, remove the lead that goes to the battery and replace the Junction Box?
Wow that looks botched :(
As SB says, that's from the alternator and can be carrying a large current hence the need for a decent job.
My preferred option would be to replace the alternator cable and box. You could split the joint and look at the condition of the cable strands - you want them to be a clear copper colour and not a black matt colour (indicating corrosion). If you find it's ok then you could split and join but a replacment is preferable. The box is about Ã,£35 IIRC from VW.
The missing red wire is for the second radiator fan - you won't have that on a 130 so don't worry!
Mine as I caught it before it failed
[attach=1]
The old one and the replacement out of car
[attach=2]
Soldering the connection on the lead to the cabin fusebox (second one down)
[attach=3]
Soldered joint before I cleaned the flux off
[attach=4]
and fitted back to the car (Hammerite on the battery tray too!)
[attach=5]
Job done!
Close up of finished box
[attach=1]
Nice one :)
Mirez & Silverbeast, thanks so much for clarifying everything for me. Job for tomorrow.
Are the fuses interchangeable then? and should I copper grease the connections before swinging on the spanner?
If you take off both nuts each fuse can be removed. They have their current rating stamped on the top you can just about read them if you zoom in on the final photo. from the top 150A, 110A, 60A, space, 60A. I guess yours should be the same as mine.
You an also split the box if you are careful - it just clips together. I did this and cleaned up all the connections thoroughly before reassembling.
[attach=1]
A bit obvious but disconnect the battery before you start! You may want to remove it any way for easier access and to Hammerite your battery tray!. The hardest bit for me was replacing the lead to the alternator. You can solder on new connections to the cables but if it had been too hot it will have oxidised the copper too much and you will have to cut it back. I also understand you can use a butt joint to extend the cable. You can get suitable contacts and welding wire (the stuff that takes the power to the electrodes) from eBay. I got these but fortunately didn't need them. You should be able to get a fusebox from a scrappies or ebay, as well as the dealers (I understand they come with fuses). If suses are wrong then you can swap them from yours after cleaning up. The top one is I believe is probably always 150A on diesel - not sure about petrol.
Forgot to say, I wouldn't use anything on the contacts, you need a good clean metal to metal connection to make the connection. They shouldn't be too tight anyway as the stud is only held in plastic (see shot in previous post)
Can I tap that up into a how-to bud?
Of course you can. You don't need to ask with any of my photos/info. You have provided a lot more information and help than I ever will, it's only fair that you get to do what you like with any info posted on YOUR site. I did take some more (about 35 altogether) that show the bits you need to remove, as I intended to do a "HowTo" - you know how often I've said that ;).
Also did the same with my auxilliary heater - the late model one.
I'll get all my Galaxy photos together and post a CD to you, if you PM me yours address. There are nearly 300 photos and 175Mb.