The old girl Audrey went over a mechanics friend of the family's house this evening ready for being in for MOT in the morning.
Dreading what we can fail on, but all has been catered for to my best ability I think!?
New:
Drop links
Balljoints
Wishbone bushes
Arb (the bar) bushes
Centre exhaust section, which I have to say, the original part was creating some heat around the heat shield above as evidenced by marking, so I've applied some 'fancy wrap' to help deflect it a bit more straight out the box, but I do understand it could of been the split on the side of the centre box itself.
Possible faults:
Top mounts
Struts on fronts and maybe rears, but springs are/seem to be in good condition.
Cars a bit messy... :laugh:
Other than that, the chassis has no rot or rusting to it, but I have a tiny amount of rust bubbling at the bottom of both rear doors, and a small amount on O/S Rear Arch, too, which I'm hoping to sort out soon!
Fingers crossed she lives on another year!
Hope so, that 130 engine is a peach
I know it sounds crazy, but give the light bulbs a quick check and also the wiper rubbers too.
Lots of scam MOT places like to say you have a bulb out (then charge you £15 or so to fix it), so I always check mine right before it goes in for the test - and I let them know I've checked it, too.
I find that if you give the car a good wash and leave a Haynes manual on the passenger seat, the car is much more likely to pass too.
So I got a fail!
NS rear shock
Rear exhaust box
Advisory:
Number plate deteriorated
Got them to do the work as needed it asap, rear shocks & exhaust with tests for £300... :cry:
Rear exhaust box. Hmm, did you inspect it yourself just to make sure it really does need replacing.
KingyMak - I hope you have your Sharan back now, ready for another year. I am always puzzled as to how to judge a shock absorber performance, in advance of the MOT test, and I usually just follow the advice to push down on each corner and try and judge the 'return bounce'. Did you spot anything like leaks on your failed shock, or were both dry?
Always watch out for shock absorbers, some garages tell u they need replacing when they don't. Biggest clue is if u hear a clunk when u go over speed bumps or if the car looks wonky when u look at it from outside on a flat surface. Or if u get uneven tyre wear perhaps.
Shock absorbers won't cause car to look wonky as they have no bearing on ride height, springs cause ride height issues. Shock absorbers do as name suggests and absorb shock, main reason they fail is leaking or lost damping ability
my mot is in the morning; 222k pampered miles but i have no idea how its getting on underneath with the weather....
Quote from: daddyfixit on October 31, 2022, 12:06:20 PMmy mot is in the morning; 222k pampered miles but i have no idea how its getting on underneath with the weather....
The same miles on mine, though I've got just over a month left before its due.
I wonder whether we could persuade daddyfixit to tell us how he got on with the MOT test.
I would be extremely interested in knowing this too please!
Mine passed today, 223640 miles racked up and no advisories :grin:
Not bad at all!
:driving:
Got mine MOT'd a wee while ago. 98,000 miles
Failed on some F/O/S outrigger holes and the place quoted me £210 to fix it !!
yeah, right
Took it to my local guy who did it for £40, took it back to the
MOT joint and it passed.
Some saving eh?
Obviously tempted fate with taking it for MOT early.
So far this week, the backbox has now decided to snap off, and today it looks like the starter has decided its time is rapidly expiring! :rolleyes:
Quote from: Solentview on November 02, 2022, 03:49:02 PMI wonder whether we could persuade daddyfixit to tell us how he got on with the MOT test.
failed badly; I knew there was a 2" repair needed on osf sill---it turned out worse. Needed the osf outer sill cutting away to repair the inner sill and the thick vertical reinforcing panel in-between them. There was also a hole near drivers feet that was the cause of a damp smell I had during summer, so it was all cut back till real steel was shiny and repair plates made to fit. The osr inner sill was holed and again the thick vertical panel that forms the jacking point was also holed; again a section of outer sill was removed to access the inners and then the thick panel were the rear subframe attaches also needed renewing. My mate who done the repairs puts it down to the very thick factory underseal holding water inside hollow sections causing it to rust from the inside>out, the front sill damage was done about 10 years ago by an insurance repairer who lifted the car on the sills and folded the sill, I found out months afterwards at mot time when I seen them so just bent them back in place---this is probably when the seam split allowing water into the outer sill ? At his point I fitted a set of Alhambra sill trims so the bottom of the sills were no longer visible, it looks 10 x timer better. Finally It also needed 2 new front flexy hoses as they were crumbling/split at the point they curve the most, oh, and a number plate bulb. the cost of repairs is more than the cars worth, but try finding another MK2 thats as reliable or at the price I paid for repairs ???