The dual mass flywheel on my Galaxy failed - the engine was working fine. I fitted a replacement flywheel and clutch and now the engine will not start - it cranks for a few seconds then stops. I have not got any fault codes. Any suggestions, please?
Is the crankshaft sensor in that area,on diagnostics are you getting an rpm signal?
Any other wiring been disturbed like earth straps when gearbox was removed?
I don't think my code reader is good enough to do much in the way of diagnostics - I certainly don't know how to use it for that, I can just read codes and there were none. (I understand cars from the days when they were just mechanical without lots of sensors). No idea where the crankshaft sensor is. The earth strap to the gearbox is fine and that is the only one disconnected when I took the gearbox off. I had to unplug a couple of sensors on gearbox and air intake but that was all.
There is no immobiliser warning and - just in case - I reset the radio code and that works.
There is plenty of fuel in the car. I don't know how the fuel cut off/feed works and I have not opened an injector pipe to see if fuel is getting to the injectors when the engine is cranked.
It seems the crank sensor is at rear of engine by flywheel so I suspect it has either been damaged during clutch/flywheel change or the flywheel is incorrect and doesn't have pick up/incorrect pick up on it
Do I have to take the gearbox off to get to this sensor? I don't remember seeing anything on the flywheel or that face of the engine.
I've looked on line - I should be able to find it on the engine now. I will get a new sensor and try that. The flywheel/clutch supplier had engine details and car reg so I would hope that is correct. The bolt holes ensured it only fitted on one way (I wondered why when fitting it - now I know). Thank you for your help, I will post the result in a few days.
I'd try pulling out the sensor first, and checking nothing is stuck to the end of it that shouldn't be there (ones I've removed are magnetic on other vehicles, and can pickup rubbish as a result).
Also have a look at the wiring to it whilst your there, just in case its got damaged at some point during the work.
You should be able to access it from outside the gearbox in most cases, they usually bolt on and are mounted from outside through a hole in the engine casing. Access might be a bit awkward though if your working off the floor.
Haven't got a manual for Galaxy with the Lynx engine but I have for a Focus with that engine and it's underneath adjacent to the R/H drive shaft.
Might be worth checking that the fuel line from the tank was not disconnected or otherwise compromised. You will have to suck fuel up from the tank via the barb on the fuel filter body if so, as the main pressure pump will not be able to do so.
While you are here, please let me remind you that this engine needs cambelt changes at no more than 100,000miles (despite what Ford insinuates) or 10 years and there is an internal belt that requires quite a few additional parts replacing. This is, unfortunately, quite an expensive process but the engine gets a good looking at as it occurs.
Sounds like a real design flaw. £1,000 every 100,000 miles. That's 1p per mile added onto the cost of motoring. It would be better if they could have somehow designed the engine in such a way as to eliminate this cost.
That's a max cost and - no DPF to have to fiddle with/replace, easy EGR valve blocking, high mpg (you might save the difference in 100k on fuel alone) so I think it all balances out. Maybe even comes out in the 1.8's favour.
Quote from: SirDavidAlhambra on April 18, 2022, 06:11:09 PMSounds like a real design flaw. £1,000 every 100,000 miles. That's 1p per mile added onto the cost of motoring. It would be better if they could have somehow designed the engine in such a way as to eliminate this cost.
That would not be in the benefit of the manufacturer though as they have built in a serviceable item to get a % of vehicles back through dealer network for repair work. Also it's about emissions aswell noise based emissions along with reducing friction to bring CO2 levels down.
Thank you both, it did seem unusual that these otherwise excellent vehicles would have a design flaw in the engine!
Also gives the dealer another possible way to sell newer vehicles - well you could spend X on this getting it serviced, or you could trade it in against something newer instead, and let someone else deal with the service instead.
Sorry for the delay in posting this - I've had a few problems. Firstly, I was sent the wrong part and had to reorder. I got the right sensor fitted and, after firing briefly, nothing. But the engine was turning 'till the battery went flat. The same the next day - fired briefly and that was it. The battery is past it's best, but I was imagining damaged wiring and all sorts. Today, I kept my fingers crossed and tried again. It fired up and continued running - missed briefly and picked up again. And it started again without mishap this evening. It took much longer than expected for the fuel to get through (I hadn't touched the fuel line).
I have an oil leak to find sometime, but that is another issue.....
So, thank you very much, this problem is solved.
Wonder if the dying battery caused the poor starting due to not spinning it quite fast enough to build rail pressure after it has been sat idle for a while? Either way at least the crank sensor has sorted the problem out.
Always change your battery before it fails
Good to know it's fixed. There is no lift pump on the models with this engine and you need to suck fuel from the tank after disturbing the lines or changing filters. There is a place on the fuel filter housing to attach a suction pump for this purpose. It's possible to damage the high pressure pump from churning the motor on the starter, I have been told.