Well another failed inspection
I wonder if anyone can help me faultfind this.
A pin out for the switch would help a lot, obviously there are two variable resistors in there and a five pin connector none of which appears to have a live feed.
Do these resistors go via the ecu?
I imagined the actuators in the headlamps themselves connected directly to the switch but maybe not.
Iââ,¬â,,¢d rather do this logically than just swap parts and hope for the best.
As things stand neither headlamp responds and one is a lot depressed compared to the other.
I assume that the click position is the highest setting and they go down from there?
Them headlight motors are usually the problem, you can take them apart and clean the little wiper inside but still ended up being intermittent, replaced both motors in the end been fine since.
It can also be that the balljoint on the end of the motor has come out of the reflector so it doesn't move when its operated. Had that happen on the mk1 when a phesant decided to play chicken with me at 70mph down the A34. Ends up with the headlight pointing down at the ground right in front of the car if thats come apart. Just a case of remove the headlight and push it back in firmly if so.
Thanks for you help. I couldnt see the headlamp motors both going west together which is why I suspected the dash control.
Unless they've been adjusted at least a couple of times a year then they probably have both gone sqiffy. Corrosion builds up on the contacts and where they have been sat, the micro movements wear away at the track surface. There is a how-to I think in the RL that describes breaking them down and cleaning.
Looking at the wiring diagram, it shows f28 and f58 are the supplies to the level switch, both of these are switched by the headlight rotary control. It seems they are tied into the dimmer control - so does that work? (should dim the backlights etc). Your only likely to find a 12v feed with the lights switched on, and I'd suspect ignition on as well.
F59 and f60 fuse the headlight motors
TIS has the wiring diagrams in a more interactive format that might be of more use if you can get to it.
If the balljoint has come apart, then you might find the inside bit of the light to be very loose if you remove the rear cover and have a look/feel around.
Would be helpful to confirm the year of your vehicle as well, as the wiring does change across the years.
Thank Brian
Thatââ,¬â,,¢s very useful information.
The car is 2002 and itââ,¬â,,¢s not perhaps surprising that things go wrong on an almost weekly basis.
The dimmer control does work however.
The time has come perhaps to remove the headlights and give them a thorough looking at.
The climate here in the Algarve while making rust a non problem, does seem to cause a lot of electrical malfunctions. A mix of very high temperatures which degrade wire insulation and high humidity attacking contact surfaces mean there is always something malfunctioning.
Ok replacing the motors has got them tilting again.
The examiner wants them set to 0.8m -0.3% to -3%
Seems a bit high to me but what do I know
I hope heââ,¬â,,¢s not going to be too fussy as I canââ,¬â,,¢t find the actual spec anywhere.
If adjustment is required it should be done with levelling switch set at the normal position ( 0 or - )
The garage will have a beam setter to get them spot on.
Thanks
Yes indeed the test center has a beam setter so they can fail it again.
Here they are not garages and just do tests.
This is good and bad I suppose though most tests on purchased vehicles seem to be bogus. I think the going rate is only 20euros .Personally I would prefer to know if there is something amiss.
Is the spec in the user manual do you think?
I think I have one for the Alhambra somewhere if only I could find it
No idea on the actual spec in the past when I was in the trade you just adjusted according to the line in the beam setter. If they are testing it would take all of 5 minutes for them to tweak the adjuster