I'm changing the front struts , bearings and bushes on my 05 galaxy. task started with mounts only with very coroded top nut then found struts, bearing, wishbone bushes, CV gator all needed changing. I also bought some new spring discs as the old ones were worn oval.
I'm a little stuck on putting it back together.. Am I right thinking the spring disc should go past the threaded part and onto the larger diameter part of the piston rod? And then should the bearing sit just below the threaded part as low as it can go so that it sits onto the shoulder of the piston rod?
Any ideas of what torque it should be? the retaining nut be? The top strut nut above the mounting is 60Nm i thought the lower one might be the same but less than 60Nm and the bearing wont turn.
You will probabbly find this diagram a bit more helpful than trying to explain the order
https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/sharan+syncro+4motion/sha/2005-406/4/411-411000/
TIS shows the nut above the bearing to be tightened to 60nm, same for the one inside the cap that usually fills up with water.
I think the info you want is contained in the linked diagram and the attached screenshots for the order of components?
Might also be worth mentioning that I seem to remember the bearing has to go the right way up. I think from memory that the correct way up, means you need the smaller plastic track facing the shock absorber, with the u shaped solid piece facing the rubber donut bit that sits between the body and the shock. Else it can't turn properly. Someone else should be able to tell you if it matters, but if you try it the wrong way up you should find it doesn't turn properly (as the rubber catches both bits of the bearing and stops it doing anything).
Canââ,¬â,,¢t help with order of how parts for or torque of nuts. But once assembled cost the nut and threads with some grease and put a rubber glove over the top plate to prevent the water sitting in it corroded nut again.
Thanks Brianh. So far as I can see that's how I have it set up...
I have the bearing the larger side up and the bottom side fits perfectly over the shoulder of the rod. but I just can't get it to 60nm without the new bearing seizing up. Tightening less than 60Nm seems to hold/fix the top wider section to the top of the shoulders of the rod ao that it becomes very stiff to turn..
should the bottom lock nut tightened to 60Nm after releasing the spring?
Johnny.. thanks for the idea. i hadn't thought of using a rubber glove. great idea. i had to grind the previous driver side one off so I could hold the bottom of the rod with mole grips. the section with the hex socket at the top of the piston had split thanks to horrendous amount of rust and overtightening.
Quote from: champagnecharly on November 25, 2020, 11:45:20 PM
Thanks Brianh. So far as I can see that's how I have it set up...
I have the bearing the larger side up and the bottom side fits perfectly over the shoulder of the rod. but I just can't get it to 60nm without the new bearing seizing up. Tightening less than 60Nm seems to hold/fix the top wider section to the top of the shoulders of the rod ao that it becomes very stiff to turn..
should the bottom lock nut tightened to 60Nm after releasing the spring?
Not according to TIS. The screenshot shown shows the tightening to 60nm and then decompress the spring.
I can't remember exactly what was swapped on mine (we replaced the top mount for sure, can't remember if we did the bearing though I think we may have done), I do remember using the impact wrench on it as described by Mirez on here, which even with rusty nuts worked well.
The two nuts are different - the top one should be a nyloc type nut, the lower one a plain nut from memory (parts list seems to confirm that as well).
Thanks for confirming that. Reassured by your posts I carried on as was, put the non-locking nut on and it seems all ok.
One other concern with everything tightened up to 60Nm i don't get the gap between bush and chassis that I read other people mention. everything seems nice and tight. should there be a gap when there is no load/vehicle off the ground?
Don't know about a gap being checkable with the weight off the wheels, but with the wheels loaded you should see a small gap (I'd guess around 1cm) between the body and the retaining cap (number 4 on the earlier linked parts diagram).
You should also notice as you lift it up, that the suspension drops down slightly.
I've not long done mine, the gap on mine at the top was getting close to an inch as the mounts had completely shrunk. Result of that is it seems to have thrown the tracking off as the inside edges of the tyres have started showing shoulder wear. Mine have around the 1cm gap and went through MOT yesterday without the previously noted fault of slight movement in the upper fixing point it got last time around. It also runs along a bit more quietly now having done the mounts and tracking.
Thanks Brian. All done and that job seems ok.. . However after 40 odd miles its rumbling quite badly.. mostly on acceleration. going to have to check that out tomorrow. :( seems like a can of worms. Just the mounts they said.. lol