I have the same issue, and no clear instructions on a procedure/fix.
Can I achieve re-pairing two keyfobs that have become unresponsive on this car?
Note that I can still open the car with the key blade, and start the car by pressing the keyfob to the steering wheel barrel (where ignition key would go if it were not keyless). But it's a faff!
I have changed the batteries to both fobs (2 different makes of new batteries) and tested in my other car's fob to confirm they are capable of working OK.
My car is a Ford Galaxy 2.0 Titanium X, 14 plate (so I guess a MK3?), with push button start and two 3 button keyfobs with non-foldout keyblades (inside the keyfobs) which are a pain to use manually.
I have just replaced my main car battery too, so everything electrical has been reset too.
I have tried following the below steps and trawled sites/google for alternative/relevant procedures.
My 2014 Galaxy Titanium X has a push button start, so the instructions in the manual and repeated on this site do not apply reposted by Mirez (https://www.bigcarclub.com/index.php?msg=26134) and summarised below :
1. Fasten the safety belts and close all doors to make sure that conflicting chimes do not sound during programming.
2. Turn the ignition switch from position I to position II four times within six seconds.
3. Turn the ignition switch to position I. An audible chime will be heard to indicate that learning mode is enabled.
4. Press and hold one of the buttons on the remote transmitter until a chime sounds. This indicates the remote transmitter code has been successfully received.
5. Repeat step 4, within 10 seconds, for any other transmitters you have.
6. Wait 10 seconds or turn the ignition switch to position II to exit learning mode.
7. Test all the programmed remote transmitters, by activating and deactivating the locking/unlocking functions.
The alternative procedure referenced by Counsy (https://www.bigcarclub.com/index.php?msg=23251) summarised below is promising but I am unable to follow that either :
- Put the unprogrammed Intelligent Access key in the center console pocket.
- Press the driver or passenger power door unlock control three times.
- Press and release the brake pedal once.
- Press the driver or passenger power door lock control three times.
- Press and release the brake pedal once.
The passive transponder reader is on the steering wheel column, not in the cup holders/centre console locker. There are no power door lock/unlock buttons, other than the small push/pull lever above the door release lever.
ALSO- Can I disable the alarm, so that when I manually unlock the car the alarm does not sound if I do not immediately start the car?
Quote from: stclark67 on January 08, 2023, 11:36:54 AMALSO- Can I disable the alarm, so that when I manually unlock the car the alarm does not sound if I do not immediately start the car?
No, because there isn't any 'validation' when you manually unlock the car, hence the alarm goes into warning mode and you need to start the car so a valid immobiliser code can be used to disable it instead.
Sadly I've not seen many stories of success with people programming the Intelligent keys themselves, the standard ones seem fine but the keyless ones seem to have to be hooked up to Ford's system to resync :(
Yes, that's my experience too. The ability to program keys oneself came to an end around 2010 in my experience, when encryption and rolling codes came into play. It was hard enough with my MK2 Alhamb, carefully picking the little immobiliser chip out of the keyfob and transplanting it into another key which I had carefully cut and managed to link to the car. Since then, it's only become more complex. So really a job for the specialist key cutters these days. I think many of them have machines where they buy 'credits' to clone or produce extra keys, it makes it a lot easier but it's all encrypted and controlled by tokens and stuff.
How one misses the days of not even needing to bother locking the car hey. Or just using a simple metal key.