58 Plate VW Sharan. Engine code: BVK
Car AirCon is in tip top condition, as I can feel the AIRCON-pipes in the bonnet Hot and ice-cold respectively when aircon is turned on.
Problems:
1: Front fans are blowing air, but NO AIR FROM THE ROOF FANS at any fan speed. Nothing.
2: Even when front fans are blowing HOT air, there is ice-cold air an egress point/ventilation in the carboot area.
As a result of 2 above, car fogs up due to imbalance in the air temperature.
Please help.
So the rear heater/air con does nothing at all when controlling from the panel?
Check the motor in rear heater box see if you got power to it
Yes you are right. Nothing no effect.
Where is the rear heater located?
Nearside in boot behind the quarter panel trim.
Ah, thats what the issue is!
That blower is working, and at all times blowing icecold air. Any instructions on how to open it up?
And what am I testing with a multimeter.
thanks
So the rear blower motor is running all the time but the temp control is not working then?
Take the quarter trim off then you can access the heater box,never had mine apart but I did have quarter trim off the other side and it was just a matter of removing C post trim, d post trim and some screws in the quarter trim then it pulled away if I remember correctly.
Also worth scanning the HVAC module with VCDS. May help pinpoint the problem.
Waiting for the VCDs from a pal.
Until then, any instructions on how to remove those trims?
Also is there anything I could do with Fuses and a multimeter?
thanjs
This is the procedure for the MK2 Galaxy
https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-common-faults-and-problems/galaxy-rear-quarter-door-card-removal-(tailgate-side-panels)/
Thank you Chris.
1: What am I looking for there?
2: Why this heater is blowing ice-cold air, but that air never reaches the roof fans/ventilators?
3: How does the air ventilation mechanism works in my air? any links or pictorial?
4: Is VCDs worth buying from fleabay, of there are proper dealers for it?
thanks all
The air to vents is through duckting in the trim that goes up the panel between quarter glass and tailgate opening.
Mine never had rear air con so no idea how it works,does it have a flap that diverts air to ceiling vents when in cooling but when in heat just blows out of the heater box at floor level like the standard heater type?
Where is the ice cold air blowing from then if it does not reach the roof vents?
This blows icecold air when rear fans turned on.
thatââ,¬â,,¢s the heater outlet which suggests to me the heater is trying to heat the cabin as controls are requesting but you either have a problem with the coolant supply to matrix or the mix flap is not working.
With engine up to temp have a feel of the hoses underneath and see if they are warm and report back what you find
Quote from: yeshu26 on October 13, 2018, 10:14:22 AM
Thank you Chris.
1: What am I looking for there?
2: Why this heater is blowing ice-cold air, but that air never reaches the roof fans/ventilators?
3: How does the air ventilation mechanism works in my air? any links or pictorial?
4: Is VCDs worth buying from fleabay, of there are proper dealers for it?
thanks all
1. You ask how to remove trims!
2/3 Only heated air should come out the floor vent, try selecting maximum cold air on the display to see if the cold air is directed to the upper vents, if it does then either the air blend door is not operating (this will show as a fault in VCDS) or you have a coolant blockage to the rear matrix.
4. Anyone who works on VAG vehicles will tell you how invaluable having this piece of equipment is, they are easily available on ebay, don't be tempted to register the software unless your really confident with it you can still check for fault codes but you won't be able to do an autoscan just make sure you get one that's compatible with your laptop.
There's help in our reference library if you get stuck.
Findings:
10 mile run on motorway with engine temperature less than 90 (12 0 clock).
a: Both front and rear climate buttons on "LO", both generate ice cold air as expected. THE AIR only comes out of the carboot vent, as mentioned above. No air whatsoever from passenger seats vent and no air from the rear(car-boot) roof vents either.
b: Both front and rear climate buttons on "HI", front is red hot as expected. THE AIR only comes out of the carboot vent which is ICECOLD.
No air whatsoever from passenger seats vent and no air from the rear(car-boot) roof vents either.
3: Sorry Chris, what I really meant to ask, once I open those trims what am I testing with a multimeter?
thanks again
You have a flap issue as it should blow from ceiling vents when on cold, vcds will help you identify if there is a motor problem for the control flaps.
Have you felt the hoses/pipes under the car to see if they are warm?
Ok off toe fleabay to order one.
Anyone have a diagram or something which shows how the air flows?
Any pictorial on accessing the flap please? Where exactly it is in the car?.
thanks
Can I check any fuses or relays with a multimeter in the meanwhile?
Once you access the box it will be obvious what way air flows.
did you check the water pipe/hose temp in to the box to rule out coolant circulation issue?
Donââ,¬â,,¢t think fuse related personally but have a look in ref library as info on fuses and relays for the car in there.
You have a flap/control issue and poss coolant circulation. But the test of pipes will prove or disprove the circulation
Number 7 is the door motor this will direct the air to the roof or floor vents, don't know whether it works on full 12 volts or lower
[attachimg=1]
Number 4 hose pipe got my attention. Can I feel them under the car somehow as Johny recommended?
PS: and so did number 7 the temperature blend actuator.
Yes there are 2 pipes one being the flow the other return. In the picture number 4 is only pointing to one pipe but they are side by side.
Under the car you will see the two aluminium tubes, you should also see the two aircon pipes.
"You have a flap issue as it should blow from ceiling vents when on cold, vcds will help you identify if there is a motor problem for the control flaps."
Is this flap located in the same box (car boot area) as you folks mentioned?
Yes all flaps for rear heater/air con unit will be in same unit as thatââ,¬â,,¢s where heater matrix and 2nd evaporator live
Thanks gentlemen for taking time on your weekend to reply to my queries. Much appreciated.
Will jump into local hardware shop to buy a "star type" tool first. No idea why Germans make things so complex. Opening bolts to change the pollen filter is a pain! My Sunday rant over!
ta guys
OK. nothing on VCDs scanning. It says no fault code found.
Did you check the coolant pipes in to box?
Quote from: johnnyroper on October 17, 2018, 12:42:46 AM
Did you check the coolant pipes in to box?
I felt the two pipes into the AUX heater and two out from it. They all are hot. Were you asking about those?
Those will be leading to the rear heater so safe to assume heater matrix is getting coolant.
As for the problem with no faults on vcds I will assume control side and motor is working as it should. I suspect the flap inside the heater box is broken or dislodged.
You need to get in to the heater box and have a look now I think you have done everything you can without stripping it down
Ta Johnny
You mean the heaterbox as described in the diagram posted by CHris P above?
best
Quote from: johnnyroper on October 17, 2018, 11:01:46 AM
Those will be leading to the rear heater so safe to assume heater matrix is getting coolant.
As for the problem with no faults on vcds I will assume control side and motor is working as it should. I suspect the flap inside the heater box is broken or dislodged.
You need to get in to the heater box and have a look now I think you have done everything you can without stripping it down
*Update*
Without doing anything, except for scanning this is what happened few minutes back.
1: The rear vent on the pillar (near carboot floor) is indeed giving out hot air just like the front ventilators when the system is on *HI* heat.
2: The roof vents give out cold air, when the system is on *LO* temperature. This is a new change, as previously there was no air at any temperature.
3: The roof vents DO NOT give out hot air, when the system is on *Hi*. Is this normal?
Yes thatââ,¬â,,¢s normal when on heat the floor vent blows hot air, when on cool the roof vents blow Cool air,as far as I am aware roof vents only work for cool.
So previously it did not work like this then? I would just monitor it and see if it carries on working correctly,could be the motor somehow reset or something when you plugged in.
Hello!
So, I am still driving my Seat Alhambra 2003 1.9tdi (AUY).
Of course, it is getting rather old, finally, but I still like it.
In order to pass annual technical inspection, I had to repair a few things (a shop did them).
One of them was a coolant leak at the auxiliary heater (some vertical piping was basicaly rotten).
My aux heater had not been working alread and that is not the main issue here.
Thing is, the shop repaired everything and I passed the technical inspection, but now the luggage compartment blower blows only lukewarm air when on max settings. Thing is, my front blower had died a few weeks ago (started sounding horribliy when finally stopped starting). So...my rear blower was the only thing keeping me warm :D
Question is, could repairing the aux heater coolant leak somehow have caused this problem? Coolant level is fine. The car was at the shop for 4 days...it is not sub-zero temperatures here yet, but could the thermostat be stuck because of cold or something??
I have contacted the shop, just need to wait a few days before they can have a look.
Thanks in advance.
Hows your electric run on pump, if it's not working the coolant flow will be slow through the rear heater.
So the cylindrical thing (circulation pump?!) which usually makes noises after engine is shut off doesnt make sounda anymore
Drive around, got the engine temp to 90..stopped...turned engine off, openes the hood and listened - nothing
Couls that be the culprit?
Yes it would also cause the booster heater to overheat if the booster heater was operating due to insufficient coolant flow
Additionally since your booster heater doesn't work, you won't get a decent heat output from the engine alone heating the system when its colder outside. But if your lucky repairing the run on pump and clearing the codes from the booster heater might bring it back to life (at least if nothing else it will help get warmer coolant to the back heater).
I haven't looked on the Galaxy, but sometimes access to the blower motor is possible via the footwells. Yours being presumably a non-uk model will be a left hand drive? Its worth a look at least to see if you can get to it (the horrible sounds you mention sound like some sort of fault with the motor to me?)
Thanks guys.
I drove without the booster heater whole winter last year.
As for the front blower, it can easily be accessed, at least for Alhambra. I saw a video.
I hear though that reading codes foe the AUX heater requires specific SW as in I would have to go to a speckalized workshop dealing with Erbersprachera (spelling ..).
Is there a way to make sure the run on pump.ia dead for 100%? Via a computer diagnostic?
Vcds will Read boost heat codes.
Run on pump just check for 12v at the plug if it has got it and pump donââ,¬â,,¢t run the pump is knackered. Usually brushes worn they only tend to last 80k miles roughly. But itââ,¬â,,¢s cheap enough to re brush the motor.
Got to say the boost heater on mine aided a quicker warm up in colder months but even without it I got decent heat from the heaters once it had warmed. I didnââ,¬â,,¢t find it was essential to have the boost heater to get engine up to temp and decent cabin heat.
The whole pump new can be found on eBay if you get stuck - I replaced mine as it was leaking (or appeared the leaking was coming from it at least, wasn't sure either way as it may have been coming off the scuttle onto it, as also found the thermostat housing was leaking afterwards). Mine came from a German seller for around Ã,£45. But since yours just doesn't work (you'd soon hear it if it did work) its worth a try of some brushes on it.
Ok, thank you for all your replies.
Now, today the plan is to find out how much I can get the run-on pump for and go on from there.
Special thanks to Chris and Johhny
The issue is now resolved. Many thanks chaps!
PS: I would like to replace my AUX heater since old one is broken (electronically and mechanically). Who is selling one el cheapo? BVK engine code.
I am getting a new run-on pump from my friend later today, it cost me 55 EUR.
As for the replacement, has anyone done it themselves? Would there be much coolant leaking in the process?
I am trying to figure out whether or not I can do it myself later today.
Really easy to change couple of hoses and electrical connection,I used 2 brake pipe clamps on hoses to limit the loss of coolant.
Thank you for the information.
Will definitely report back on how it will have ended.
Just remembered I had bough some diagnostics cable from E-bay, but the problem was on the laptop's end (something fishy about installation)....now I have a new laptop...if I am lucky maybe I will finally be able to at least read errors.
Quote from: seatalehandro on October 26, 2018, 08:26:59 AM
I am getting a new run-on pump from my friend later today, it cost me 55 EUR.
As for the replacement, has anyone done it themselves? Would there be much coolant leaking in the process?
I am trying to figure out whether or not I can do it myself later today.
The worst bit from swapping mine was getting the rubber holders back into their mounting holes - the pump can be slid out of these without removing them from the bracket, do this if you can (as the 15 year old rubber will be hard and not want to go back into the holes if it pulls out, mine had been removed by someone before and bodged back in place with cable ties around the bracket). Not a major job to do at all, just 2 hoses and 1 plug to disconnect, plus little bit of topping up afterwards.
Worthwhile keeping the old one if you intend keeping the car, as the brushes can be replaced at your leisure if you ever need one again then.
Blast!!
Windscreen is still fogging/misting. Can someone please share the air-circulation diagram of Sharan ii with me please?
How does the air go out from the car? there must be an egress point.
thanks
Thereââ,¬â,,¢s some vents behind rear bumper if I remember correctly.
Have you checked condition of your pollen filter and also does the recirc flap work correctly on front heater box?
Quote from: johnnyroper on October 28, 2018, 09:12:25 PM
Thereââ,¬â,,¢s some vents behind rear bumper if I remember correctly.
Have you checked condition of your pollen filter and also does the recirc flap work correctly on front heater box?
Your memory is correct - if you remove the two rear flaps to access the bulbs from inside the boot, the flap is just visible inside the lower section (you might need to remove the jack from its stowage position). They sit around the side of the bumper, not really much to go wrong with them unless the space has been filled up with something stuffed in there?
Couple of things worth considering though as well as the pollen filter (and related scuttle drains or mobile swimming pool that can build up there if they are blocked)
1) air con might get cold, but does the condensate drain appear to be clear (should see dripping under car after its been switched on, somewhere near the gear stick around the front, don't know where the rear might end up if its a separate evaporator)
2) leaking heater matrix, or leaking rear screen washer (common issue being it comes apart in the passenger footwell) causing excess moisture be present. Does the rear screen washer work, do you have to keep topping coolant up? Is the front carpet wet? (possbile the pipe has started to leak if its not fully apart but not pushed together fully, poor design makes it prone to coming apart)
Quote from: johnnyroper on October 28, 2018, 09:12:25 PM
Thereââ,¬â,,¢s some vents behind rear bumper if I remember correctly.
Have you checked condition of your pollen filter and also does the recirc flap work correctly on front heater box?
Hi
* brand new pollen filter.
* No water in the any of the footwell.
* I saw some vents inside the carboot (see attached link)/ I have cleared any stuff which was blocking them in anyway.
VCD showed nothing wrong with any flaps. As mentioned before I get normal air wrt appropriate settings from all vents.
The only exception is the glove box, where the air is always icecold. I just close it.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=vw+sharan+car+boot+inside&rlz=1C1CHBF_en-GBGB808GB808&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=3HfKjTArmXe-pM%253A%252CHtgZjzbT7m3e6M%252C_&usg=AI4_-kQj8sFR_kpaWWu3MLKTGQ5oe5nVNg&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiyxK7djqreAhWFF8AKHfpfDSEQ9QEwBHoECAUQBg#imgdii=lKE96ch2irzqgM:&imgrc=HM44fPecxJcWuM:
Are you running with recirculated air? this will mist the windows as will not having the A/C in AUTO mode.
Quote from: yeshu26 on October 28, 2018, 09:53:52 PM
Hi
* brand new pollen filter.
* No water in the any of the footwell.
* I saw some vents inside the carboot (see attached link)/ I have cleared any stuff which was blocking them in anyway.
VCD showed nothing wrong with any flaps. As mentioned before I get normal air wrt appropriate settings from all vents.
The only exception is the glove box, where the air is always icecold. I just close it.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=vw+sharan+car+boot+inside&rlz=1C1CHBF_en-GBGB808GB808&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=3HfKjTArmXe-pM%253A%252CHtgZjzbT7m3e6M%252C_&usg=AI4_-kQj8sFR_kpaWWu3MLKTGQ5oe5nVNg&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiyxK7djqreAhWFF8AKHfpfDSEQ9QEwBHoECAUQBg#imgdii=lKE96ch2irzqgM:&imgrc=HM44fPecxJcWuM:
Vcds might not show any faults but that does not prove the recirc flap is actually operating when commanded to by the motor.
Quote from: Chrispb on October 28, 2018, 10:38:51 PM
Are you running with recirculated air? this will mist the windows as will not having the A/C in AUTO mode.
Always auto mode or the demisting mode for the window.
Quote from: johnnyroper on October 29, 2018, 12:40:51 AM
Vcds might not show any faults but that does not prove the recirc flap is actually operating when commanded to by the motor.
Where is it located? the recirc flap?
I can feel the change in car internal air pressure when I press/unpress it.
ta
ffs nightmare starts again lads.
Did you ever check the scuttle area up the front? (area near pollen filter, under the wipers) They are known to fill up with leaves and then water when it can't escape from the drain holes, if you have excessive water there (i've seen it manage to get a lot gathering there) that could introduce excessive water into the air taken into the vehicle as it is right under the pollen filter (or on the pollen filter in the worst cases).
Fix is to remove the plastic bit that sits in the drain hole and leave it out, this should allow most of the debris to fall through and out of the car then.
Yes cleared it.
The problem is the mixture of cold and hot air in the car.
Rear floor vent is blowing ice cold air (again).
Quote from: brianh on November 24, 2018, 05:11:57 PM
Did you ever check the scuttle area up the front? (area near pollen filter, under the wipers) They are known to fill up with leaves and then water when it can't escape from the drain holes, if you have excessive water there (i've seen it manage to get a lot gathering there) that could introduce excessive water into the air taken into the vehicle as it is right under the pollen filter (or on the pollen filter in the worst cases).
Fix is to remove the plastic bit that sits in the drain hole and leave it out, this should allow most of the debris to fall through and out of the car then.
I'd suspect you have some sort of issue with a sticking distribution flap. Though no idea where to suggest on that one, as I don't have one with the rear A/C fitted. Its not too major to remove the rear inner lining in the boot and have a look whats going on though, I suspect thats where you'd need to start with.
Might be sorted with a few tactical applications of lubricant in the right places if your lucky.
Rear screen washer pipe gets dislodged from time to time in the "carboot", but never in the front area.
Quote from: brianh on October 28, 2018, 09:36:40 PM
Your memory is correct - if you remove the two rear flaps to access the bulbs from inside the boot, the flap is just visible inside the lower section (you might need to remove the jack from its stowage position). They sit around the side of the bumper, not really much to go wrong with them unless the space has been filled up with something stuffed in there?
Couple of things worth considering though as well as the pollen filter (and related scuttle drains or mobile swimming pool that can build up there if they are blocked)
1) air con might get cold, but does the condensate drain appear to be clear (should see dripping under car after its been switched on, somewhere near the gear stick around the front, don't know where the rear might end up if its a separate evaporator)
2) leaking heater matrix, or leaking rear screen washer (common issue being it comes apart in the passenger footwell) causing excess moisture be present. Does the rear screen washer work, do you have to keep topping coolant up? Is the front carpet wet? (possbile the pipe has started to leak if its not fully apart but not pushed together fully, poor design makes it prone to coming apart)
That would be unusual, they normally come off at the front joint near the footwell.
My washer pipe popped apart behind trim above the nearside rear light filling the storage area in quarter trim with water. Same
Naff fitting as the one that pops in front. Mine wasnââ,¬â,,¢t fully apart so rear washer still worked which meant issue was in noticed for a while.
If it is a problem like the front one is, I found 2 fuel hose clips one either end was enough to stop it coming apart again.
Yeah same as the front not too bad to get to on standard models I added 2 cable ties to mine. On rear air con equipped cars itââ,¬â,,¢s a pain as ducting runs against it.
Thank you for the comments. Thermostat ordered.
Regarding the misting on the windscreen, it is worse in the rainy weather. I was suspecting leaky matrix, but I have not found anything nasty smelling or sticky on the windscreen yet.
It's a thin film of steam, which cleans off easily with fingers or hands.
Wait.... windscreen does get dirty from time to time with thin film which is like stubborn water-vapour if that makes sense lads?
I will try to take a picture with a good camera if I can.
How bad is the misting as in this weather is quite normal to get some as the air con will not be working due to low ambient temps?
Quote from: johnnyroper on November 27, 2018, 12:17:42 PM
How bad is the misting as in this weather is quite normal to get some as the air con will not be working due to low ambient temps?
In bad rains can compromise the vision or enough to annoy the driver. Aircon clears just a bit.
Quote from: yeshu26 on November 27, 2018, 10:51:57 AM
Wait.... windscreen does get dirty from time to time with thin film which is like stubborn water-vapour if that makes sense lads?
I will try to take a picture with a good camera if I can.
It usually smears if its coolant and doesn't clean easily - the screen can still look dirty after cleaning. Depending how diluted your coolant/antifreeze is will effect how long it takes
But if your matrix is leaking, then you should be losing coolant out of the expansion bottle.
If it is leaking, then when i replaced the matrix on the mk1 I had to clean a load of gungy coolant (consistancy not far off golden syrup) out of the heater box to stop the flaps sticking, if you have got that leaking that might explain the problem. Theres no reason the back matrix couldn't be the one leaking though (and that one is a lot easier to access and work on, so I'd rule that out first!). Again if thats leaking you might find its causing flaps to stick, I'd also suspect that the back one leaking might not make a visible mark in the same way, as the antifreeze would have to travel a lot further before it got deposited on the glass, which given its not directly pointed to the glass probably wouldn't happen anyway.
Ok. So thermostat changed today. Tested with water and all was well. Since its freezing in Aberdeen, I asked the mechanic to siphon out good two litres of water. I had 2 litres of G13 at home, and drove couple of miles home at low revs to top it up. Low coolant warning came as expected, and engine temp went around 95-100. Reached home, topped up with G 13 concentrate, and now the bloody thing wont start. Ran VCDs with no fault code. After engine cooled down, it started no bother.
Now the grand finale, even though engine temp is around 90, the heater blower is blowing our absolutely freezing air.
I am banging my head thinking, now what the F!!!
Mine tested in water fine when it was knackered,but they go weak so the pressure of water behind it pushes open slightly.
You have an air lock in the system by sound of it
Quote from: johnnyroper on December 04, 2018, 09:24:41 PM
Mine tested in water fine when it was knackered,but they go weak so the pressure of water behind it pushes open slightly.
You have an air lock in the system by sound of it
Ta mate.
What shall I do?
Make sure return to expansion bottle is clear,top level and run up with cap off until warm. Top fluid replace cap and drive the car around for a while. Then slowly remove cap and leave to cool with cap off and re top level. Might take a day or so to clear all air locks,mine certainly did
Some coolant disappeared. Looks good. That is OEM g 13 one bottle. And one 2 bottles of prestone from ASDA so far. Hope prestone is same enough for my oldie.
Quote from: yeshu26 on December 05, 2018, 11:13:19 AM
Some coolant disappeared. Looks good. That is OEM g 13 one bottle. And one 2 bottles of prestone from ASDA so far. Hope prestone is same enough for my oldie.
NB# Looks wrt coolant seeping off slowly. The bl00dy thing still does not heat the cabin.
Finally! Drove 4 miles, till it gulped the expansion bottle dry. In total topped up 2+3+2 litres of coolant.
Nice and hot now. Engine temp up to 90.
ta lads.