Iââ,¬â,,¢m just wondering, as Iââ,¬â,,¢m going to be doing the inner shaft and the outer CVââ,¬â,,¢s;
I can replace the whole lot for under Ã,£100, where as general parts and that alone?
Just seems more sense if they arenââ,¬â,,¢t as bad as some people make out, as I see good reviews from a lot of the old A4 groups Iââ,¬â,,¢m still on!
my 2000 lx is running of their offside stub axle set-ups ââ,¬Â¦.
ive put 2 corsa cv joints on her dads q1700d corsa van
full offside shaft/complete with support bearing on a zetec fiesta
and now I have found their boxes in my local motor factors....
I had one on a Mondeo, that got replaced after 20k as it had worn badly enough to have play in it, which also cured a wobble through the steering that had been present since fitting it in the first place. I've not tried any of them since after that. not had one on a Galaxy, have just replaced boots on them as thats all I needed in 110k on the old one.
Iââ,¬â,,¢m looking at buying a full set of shafts;
This means the left and right shafts, plus the intermediate and in er shaft; but itââ,¬â,,¢s still recommending to buy the triple roller cv joint?
Would this not come under the other 2 purchases?
Iââ,¬â,,¢ve took the screenshots as follows.
I can only speak from my own experience...
My original rh shaft was damaged by a heavy handed mechanic during front wheel bearing change around 80k. I bought a pair of J&R shafts, thinking it would be a good idea ( iââ,¬â,,¢ve really learned a lot since!). Also fitted a J&R intermediate and stub shaft due to wear on the teeth of the original.
After less than six months (12k!), clunky gear changes and the dreaded steering wobble had me looking in scrapyards for original shafts. Found a good pair without any play from a 2.8 v6 (same part on a manual TDI). Inner boots were split, but joints still well greased. Cleaned, greased, new boots and a new Meyle intermediate and stub shaft, and 60k later, still running wonderfully smooth (ok, so it is an old tdi!).
As I said, just my own experience ;)
Avoid j and r full stop.
Poor quality and customer service poor.
Requested refund and told to buy centre shaft to cure fault which was only an outer cv joint. The idea was replace both driveshafts not the centre one to have a bolt on bolt off option.
Take the hit and buy SKF or gkn as even the motor factor ones are poor. I bought a meyel centre bearing and shaft that was good but the steering shake remained which is down to inner cv joint wear....
Iââ,¬â,,¢m doing this for the third time now! This time with gkn lobro and the ends are flat with no dimple or round end like the j and r or motor factors so should be solved... long way around I know wish u just did the outer cv with gen ford instead now....
Never had to replace my originals since I bought car at 60k now on 179k. Despite it being the 130 and using it as a van carrying 3/4 of a ton of newspapers for 8 out the last 10 years. I have heard that whilst J&R may be ok on lighter cars, the weight of the Sharalaxy is too much for them, especially in the higher powered diesels.
I know they are super cheap esp off Ebay but thay are just poor quality. I bought 2 driveshafts...both were bad in that they did not improve the cv wobble that I was trying to fix. Ended up using just the cv boots and clamps!!!! Bought 2inner cv joints from the Polish Motomax crowd. They cured the wobble. Bit more expensive but did the job!
My original shafts are still on after 160K miles, not so much as split gaiter.
I fitted a J&R shaft to an old Clio, the cost of the shaft was little more than the cost of the two CV boots the old one needed, it was the nearside one with the bearing & lipseal in the inner boot. It lasted a couple of years until we got shut of it, then went on fine for a couple more years until the head gasket went, as far as I know.
As said above, perhaps they are okay on smaller cars, but there are quite a few tales of sorrow on Galaxy forums.