Hi Guys
in the recent snow I got hit in the back of the car and the tailgate ruined. I've found a replacement and I can see there is just the 4 bolts and the struts to remove but I am not sure about the wiring. Does it need to be disconnected in the tailgate or the car body ? Any advice is welcome!! :o
BJ
Sorry to hear that mate.
You can do it one of two ways, the quickest is to pull the old loom out of the tailgate and leave it attached to the car. Then swap it out for the loom in the new one.
Else, the connectors are behind the drivers side body light. You'll need to remove the tailgate side trim card and the D pillar cover to get the loom out.
If you are swapping tailgate that would also be ideal opportunity to have a good check of the cables from car to tailgate to see if any damage is starting to form.
I've just done this on my Mondeo and, as the 'gate trim had to be swapped anyway, it was clearly easier to remove the tailgate and leave the loom attached to the car. Refitting onto the new 'gate was not difficult. Saved a whole load of dismantling in the cabin.
Thanks Guys I'll let you know how I get on.
Well I swapped the tail gates over today - all went well - I used the original wiring loom as it seems to be in perfect condition. Everything is working - the only problem I have is that the tailgate warning is on all the time. The lid is very definitely shut - I swapped over the lock so the original key etc. This was happening prior to the swap and I assume as a result of the accident. Where exactly is the sensor or switch that actuates this warning? I can't work out what is causing this. I have a complete spare lock with micro switches so if its one of them I can swap out. Any ideas would be gratefully;y received. ???
Oh yes the new boot lid looks great!! and only Ã,£50 ;D
Fairly sure you will find the door closed switch is inside the lock itself. You should be able to prove this by plugging your spare in and operating it to the shut position with a screwdriver (don't need to actually install it to the door for testing, just swap the plugs over).
Thanks Brian
I've tried that but it still doesn't do it. There are two micro switches on the door lock - I think it must be one of them but neither lock seems to fix it.
Regards
BJ
just check that you have connected correct wires together...there are 2 x switches I think ?? I put mine on wrong and it played up...there are poss 2 x multiplugs that I got the wrong way round.
Thanks - I already tried that - when I connected them the other way round the lock wouldn't work. I don't think there is any adjustment that I can do to make the switch work. I wonder if there is a direct short somewhere. I'll trace it back and see what I find.
Thanks as always for your help
BJ
Might be a broken wire - I'd get your multimeter out and do a continuity check on the wires between where you unplug them from the car and the plug on the latch. Or have another look in the righthand gaiter on the boot (its a Galaxy after all, so broken wires would be expected!)
Lights now go out as does the warning. central locking works fine. However, when using the central locking the boot does not unlock - I have to use the key. Any idea why?
What did you swap or fix last to make the lock work? When i had my Mk1 originally with its badly bodged repairs done previously mine did that as well, was a broken wire (no idea which one, as most of mine were broken, the rest were covered in silicon and melted plastic, with bits of earth sleeving in the mix as well). Fixing all the various broken wires made it work again correctly.
Its either a broken wire, or a problem with the catch by the sounds of it.
Thanks Brian
As far as I can tell no wires are broken. However, the boot handle was which was why the it wouldn't put out the light. I replaced the handle and that cured it thus far.
Decided to have a another go at this. I swapped the two plugs around and the boot now opens as it should once unlocked using the central locking - However, I have the old problem back which is that the tailgate warning says it is open when of course it isn't. I have checked the wiring in the tailgate which is fine. It has to be something at the lock end.m Anyone know where the tailgate warning switch actually resides? I think it is on the lock but can't work out which micro switch.
Cheers
BJ
I am still having the same problem. I have now changed every micro switch and checked everything mechanical. Can anyone tell me which plugs go where? There are two plugs at the lock end which are interchangeable - one combination lets me open the boot as normal but the boot open warning comes on - the other makes the warning go out but you can't open the boot. The wires on the loom a also a different set of colours to those on the locks etc so I am at a loss to work out what should do what.!
I have now changed the entire rear door loom - the old one had about four cracked wires but no breaks. The replacement is absolutely perfect - but hasn't cured the problem!. However, I removed the drivers door loom to find 4 broken wires and another 2 cracked ones. I have soldered new bits in and will replace the loom tomorrow. So we'll see what transpires.
Haynes for the mk2 shows the lock motor should have red/yellow going to one side and brown to the other
Red/White with green/black and grey wires on the tailgate lock switch (this should be 3 wires so should be right anyway?)
The tailgate switch (Guess this is the door open one) is shown as brown/Red and brown wires.
The "tailgate outside switch" (the handle?) is shown as brown/White and brown, again this shares the same ground point.
Both the motor and switch show the brown wires going to the same ground point, so you should get continuity between them
Sadly that doesn't help with which one goes where though. And being the haynes manual it may not be right either.
Just a thought - might be worth looking at the used parts on eBay, as they tend to cut the wires off on some to give you the connector to use if needed (or because its easier to chop wires than unplug connectors). You might be able to get some answers from looking at the photos there?
Thanks Brian - I'll try that.
I have just re fitted the door loom and lo and behold nothing but the mirrors work!! I am not sure if it is possible to get the multiplug in wrong as it has to be the worst design ever - there is no room to remove or refit unless you have a ladies hands and are able to stop the damn thing from pushing the inner plug out of place. What a pain!!.
I will have another go in a while - but this car is perilously close to the scrap yard!. ???
If its really awkward (I've not done it to see) then its possible that you have a pin being pushed out as you push the connector home, worth a good look at it (might need a small mirror to see it fully, don't know haven't seen that one). I've had similar problems with the multiplug in the engine bay with a mondeo, with the result that the coilpack stopped receiving voltage to it.
The socket on A post is made up of several wiring blocks pushed in to it,after doing one of my rears 1 block pushed back so I had stuff not working.
You need to unplug it again and get to rear of socket to push block back in and hold while fitting the loom plug
Finally finished this one. The luggage compartment open was caused by the locking post being bent - I straightened it and voila it's working. The window was indeed the pins not quite pushed home.
All I have to do now is to sort out the spongy pedal and the jobs a goo un.! I wanted to try the "bang on the brakes" method of moving any air from the ABS block but I have a knackered wheel sensor so until I replace that I can't do it. I'll let you know if and when that finally gets done.
Output tests in VCDS will do the same thing to purge the ABS block :D
Hi Mark
Yes I know but I don't have a licenced version of VCDS - I tried my free version but it won't let you access them. ???