Hi all. I`ve always had a slight water loss from my 2003 TDI, but as I rarely use it (1000 miles per year) it`s never really concerned me too much, i just top it up every now and then. I took it out for a run this week as I intended to go for a 100 mile round trip tomorrow. For the first time my gauge shot up and the `STOP` sign came on, I pulled over immediately, popped the bonnet, and water everywhere from the expansion tank (although it was still full?) I released the pressure slowly until it all finally sucked back into the engine, topped up again (1.5L) and nursed it home with no issues. My heater has been known to blow cold occasionally when on hot ever since I`ve owned it. Where do I start looking for a solution? Any help please!! Thank you for reading.
Think in your case I would check on the water pump first as you may have one of the early ones with the plastic impeller
see my video below.
.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nY6FBiliIys
and here also
https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/heater-blowing-cold-air-and-engine-overheating-underload-(all-models)/#sthash.jAlMIHIc.dpbs
If water pump is ok then check the restrictor in small return pipe to expansion bottle,it should have a small hole in it to allow slight return. If they are both ok I would be suspecting head gasket
Thanks for your replies. I`m going to start with checking the return to expansion tank, do I have to wait until the car is hot before the water returns?
No you can check from cold also.
Water is trickling through into expansion tank. I have been playing around and have no hot air through rear heaters, only front. I also just noticed when I switched the engine off that I normally hear the `run on` pump continue but today nothing.
I`m also now thinking that perhaps my waterpump is knackered but because the vehicle is rarely used or put under any strain the run on pump was keeping things under control? I was driving up a long hill when it overheated and and chucked all its water out. Thanks everyone for all your advice so far.
You can get a peek of the impeller by removing the thermostat then try turning the impeller with your finger or a small screwdriver, if it can be turned or appears damaged it will need replacing, this will involve removing the timing belt which should also be replaced at the same time.
You are advised to replace the belt with the kit which includes the tensioner and idler pulley.
Sounds very much like the water pump is not working and now run on pump given up it is overheating.
As above take thermostat housing off and take a look at impeller
Thanks to everyone for your advice. Just took thermostat housing off and waterpump is o.k. I now believe it is the run on pump. I just gave the pump a twist to check connections before I take it off and install new brushes and could hear water gushing through it, a fault there somewhere! Going to take it off tomorrow and give it a good service with the new brushes also (Ebay Ã,£2.99!!). I will return with the outcome once finished.
Thanks again.
Around this time last year both me and my brother David who drive a MK1 and a MK2 both had our radiators start to leak. Not having to remove the timing belt on the MK1 we changed my water pump, but like i say on both wagons we had a leak on the left side an although it looked like the water pump was leaking, it was just the way the water was getting blown and laying at the pump.
The problem showed itself when the cooling system was under load, going up hills, so perhaps a short run up a steep hill may be worth a shot.
A second hand rad off an MK1 Alhambra we had scrapped for me and a Flea bay special for Davids Mk2, no more overheating.
Just letting you know Mickey :D
Mark...
Thanks for your input Mark. I had just gone up a steep hill when mine overheated. I`m hoping the run on pump resolves my problem. But, as I said earlier, I`ve always been losing water since I`ve owned it. I will return with my results!
I don't think a knackered run on pump will cause overheating,problems with rear heater not getting hot due to poor circulation and boost heat cutting out on over temp as it's only there to assist the flow to rear really. The engine pump provides the cooling circuit flow around engine and rad. I would say your head gasket is likely cause.
New brushes to run on pump fitted and pump is working fine. Just done 50 mile run including steep hills and no overheating. The mystery of having to top up water now and then still mystifies me (and many others according to research) yet, back on the road and enjoying my vehicle again.
Thanks again for all the replies regarding my initial enquiry.
Have you noticed water stains around the expansion bottle/battery tray area?
Honestly I think the run on pump running is masking the problem as that being defective should not cause over heating.
Unfortunately I agree, the aux pump isnt going to be a cause of overheating as it only aids the main pump to drive water to the rear and doesn't circulate the block. As JR above, it's going to be masking something more sinister I'm afraid.
Sorry to trouble you again guys, but its overheated again. Could it be as simple as the thermostat? Should I remove it and run without one to see what happens?
Or, to be totally honest, if I remove the thermostat, would it disguise the problem enough to sell it!!
Removing the thermostat will open up the cooling circuit which may prolong the period before overheating.
Head gasket me thinks
Yep I would stick money on head gasket failure. Esteem no2 and cooling jacket as that seems the usual place.
OP what year,mileage,condition and spec is it? And if you do sell it on what would you be looking for?
Follow up to my problems! I removed the thermostat, temperature fluctuated 1/4 to just under 1/2. I decided to check the cooling fans, pulled plug off the rad and completed the circuit manually with a heavy duty wire, fans burst into life and I can honestly say I have never heard these come on before. Went for a drive in todays hot weather and gauge barely moved. Removed expansion cap when I stopped and a little pressure was released, stuck my finger in to check temp and although quite warm certainly not hot. Could it really be the fan sensor? I`m feeling optimistic. Don`t really want to sell the old girl, Ghia X, 6 seater, 10" dvd in front with built in screens in back (still with factory fitted vcr player as well) 18" audi rims with 245/40`s, recon turbo fitted by me last year, loads of history. It`s just such a good looking vehicle!! Regards, Mickey.
Honestly don't waste your money on a fan sensor it won't be that,the chances of getting a pd hot enough for rad fan to cut in are very slim unless going up big hills in hot weather towing a caravan.
By removing thermostat you have opened the cooling system up fully which is giving you a lower running temp.
The underlying fault is still there and I will stick money on it being the head gasket.
Sorry to shatter your optimism.
Mine was doing the same, and turned out to be the head gasket after trying all the other possible solutions just changed the gasket and all good since.
Hi Mickeywis,
I know you say you have checked the waterpump and that it was ok. When you removed the thermostat housing and then the thermostat, did you stick your finger in and touch the impeller of the waterpump? If you can turn the impeller with your finger then it has come loose on the shaft, or if it feels as though any of the blades on the impeller are broken then it is the waterpump. I definitely think your problem is with coolant circulation as is also shown by your heater blowing cold air. I had this problem myself 3 yrs ago and recognise the symptoms. Another way to tell if it's a circulation problem is when it overheats again touch the bottom radiator hose and you will find it is cold.
I have never had a head gasket problem but correct me if I'm wrong, with a head gasket problem it's often the pressure from the cylinders getting into the coolant that forces the coolant out of the header tank. Any overheating is as a result of coolant loss and not the cause of the coolant loss.
With head gasket it is compression leaking in to cooling system which then pushes coolant past the cap,the overheating can be as a result of low coolant or the air in the system.
just as I thought. Thanks for clarifying that for me.
Hello Guys, back again! Thanks for all your comments. Have used the `bus` over summer for camping holidays and have kept it under control by `nursing` it along by having a switch inside the cabin to control cooling fans. Let`s not forget I have no thermostat too. It definitely does not like being under stress, a steady 55mph and she can be controlled, but anymore, that's when temperature rises and always has dribbles of water from expansion tank. So, although I can keep her under control, is it time to address a head gasket fault? The pressure when I release the cap on the expansion tank is incredible and the whole water system gurgles. My question is, do head gasket repair kits from a bottle really work? I also hope people learn from my water problems as I am.
Regards, TDI Owner!
In a word? No.
The bottle stuff is useless for anything other then coolant to like at leeks. Once the cylinder is involved it's a pointless exercise as the gas pressure will blow past, normally exasperating the problem.
Thanks for the reply Mirez,
Will save my money and keep `nursing` my ol` Galaxy along!
No other option but to whip that head off to resolve the problem,as pressure is so great and it's been like it a while I would get the head checked. Fingers crossed it's just gasket knackered,you should be able to see witness marks between cylinder and water jacket
Quote from: johnnyroper on September 27, 2017, 08:20:31 PM
No other option but to whip that head off to resolve the problem,as pressure is so great and it's been like it a while I would get the head checked. Fingers crossed it's just gasket knackered,you should be able to see witness marks between cylinder and water jacket
Best to get on with it than nurse it. The parts can be had for about Ã,£100. I always check the turbo actuator diaphragm as well as i have seen a few where they are split and i believe this causes higher boost pressures and in turn contributes to head lift. If you keep driving it the head is more likely to warp and your not supposed to rework these heads. I also use the 150bhp headbolts on replacement as well.
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The old bus will be sorn from end of October until March and sitting in my garage so the head will be coming off. I`m going to try a `bottle sealer` before then just out of curiosity. For the sake of Ã,£20-Ã,£30 pound, I`m interested in the results and to also feedback to others the results. As with a lot of us, playing with vehicle mechanisms is an enjoyable pastime, It`s a man thing isn't it? I`m not worried about wasting a few quid on experimenting, gets me out of the house! But, I`d like to ask for recommendations on which to experiment with, is K-seal the best?
Regards, Mickey
I would advise against using that stuff as it will cause you more work in the long run as it can restrict flow through rads etc.
Quote from: johnnyroper on September 29, 2017, 09:56:46 PM
I would advise against using that stuff as it will cause you more work in the long run as it can restrict flow through rads etc.
Its very unlikely to work. Year's ago I tried it on a Vw Bora tdi to cure the head gasket and it never worked. Its good for a quick fix on a radiator leak and i managed to fix a heater matrix on a mk5 Golf tdi that was bellowing steam out of the dashboard on a customers car because he had no money. A year later he's still got no money and the matrix is still good.
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As above, those products are designed to deal with the high temps and lower pressures of a cooling system. The much higher pressures produced by a system pressurised by combustion leakage will overwhelm it.
Better to buy Ã,£30 worth of beer. At least you'll get some enjoyment before the headache.
Quote from: mickeywis on April 07, 2017, 08:14:21 PM
Hi all. I`ve always had a slight water loss from my 2003 TDI, but as I rarely use it (1000 miles per year) it`s never really concerned me too much, i just top it up every now and then. I took it out for a run this week as I intended to go for a 100 mile round trip tomorrow. For the first time my gauge shot up and the `STOP` sign came on, I pulled over immediately, popped the bonnet, and water everywhere from the expansion tank (although it was still full?) I released the pressure slowly until it all finally sucked back into the engine, topped up again (1.5L) and nursed it home with no issues. My heater has been known to blow cold occasionally when on hot ever since I`ve owned it. Where do I start looking for a solution? Any help please!! Thank you for reading.
I had the samme issue as you descibe here, and tried all the possibilities as thermostat, restricter, waterpump etc.
The expension tank was pressurised after each trip, and got worse as the time passed.
I had to change the headgasket, and when there was good access, I also overhauled the turbo, witch was stuck, and cleaned the inletmanifoil/EGR valve.
Its not a difficult job, and if you have all the parts, it is a good day work :)
Hello again everybody!!! Just ordered a head gasket kit, BIG LOLS. The poor old bus has done only 350 miles since my first post, she sits in the garage fully legal but neglected due to the head problems. Gone are the times of playing in the garage man cave fiddling with your motor :-( . Well the time has come to resurrect the old girl so the head will be coming off next week and we will see where we go from there. I`m expecting a skim as it`s been gone so long. Will keep everyone updated on my progress as there are other jobs I will be doing to bring her back to her former glory.
Going on my experience I think you will get away with a skim,mine clearly had gasket failure as black marks between no2 and coolant jacket itââ,¬â,,¢s common on the PD especially AUY. Just straight edge it after a clean up to check.
Cheers Johnny, will keep in touch. And thanks for taking the time to reply.
During last two years I had similar problem, and I resolved it with tightening head bolts.
In last 2000 km no any water loss, everything is just fine-guage is always on 90deg.
Maybe helps to someone..
I
Quote from: mirosti on July 30, 2018, 11:20:30 AM
During last two years I had similar problem, and I resolved it with tightening head bolts.
In last 2000 km no any water loss, everything is just fine-guage is always on 90deg.
Maybe helps to someone..
s it safe to tighten the head bolts? Im scared they might snap....
I have seen on golf forums they have tried tightening head bolts by 90 degrees, some had success with head gasket issues going while others fault remained. Suppose it depends on how far gone it was. What tends to happen is the bolts stretch/lose force with all the heating and cooling cycles.
If you do end up changing gasket fit the 130/150bhp bolts as they are more reliable.
@johnnyroper Thanks for support, but it seems that in my country(Serbia) not availaible bolts 130/150bhp.
Do you know factory number of theese bolts, maybe I can purchase in Germany.
038103384c is the 150 bhp head bolt part number.
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Thanks a lot Marcus..
I have decided to give it a go with tightening the head bolts. Should I just go 90 degrees, and is it a good idea just to anti clockwise first a little to see if they move? I am concerned about snapping them. I have a very minor leak so I think its worth a try.
If you are going to try the bolts work in the correct sequence on a cold engine,make sure you release pressure cap so cooling system has no pressure in it.
Then gently go 90 degrees on each,donââ,¬â,,¢t slacken first though.
This is just I done on my engine.
Quote from: johnnyroper on August 07, 2018, 07:48:29 AM
If you are going to try the bolts work in the correct sequence on a cold engine,make sure you release pressure cap so cooling system has no pressure in it.
Then gently go 90 degrees on each,donââ,¬â,,¢t slacken first though.
Ha ha ha ha still having issues with mine overheating.. can't afford to get rid but taking it to friend who good on cars (cheap as well [emoji23]) he's not happy cause he knows it's tit of problem and wouldn't be happy handing it back not done, he's gonna do the bolts as you say obviously new seal, flush rad and system out, IF it carries on new head or skim I guess, everything else working well so will bite bullet.. ha ha ha the threads on this are everywhere..
Oh off subject but he won't do my top strut bush (can't remember name) is it easier to just buy new suspension with top mounts and use old springs
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I was lucky with mine the head was fine no replacement or skim required just new gaskets/bolts etc and all was good for the following 2.5 years and 30k of ownership.
Does anyone know the exact bit I need for the head bolts, as I want to be prepared when taking the cover off, thanks.
Triple square/spline 12mm if memory serves correctly
Hi guys.
My Sharan TDI 4motion is having overheating issues. I have read this thread in great detail and my symptoms are the same. Temperature went all the way up and told me to STOP in the dash. The expansion tank pressurising and bubbling sporadically like a volcano. The fans don't appear to cut in at all. The radiator seems to have a cool spot underneath the fan control switch as well. The blowers are cold all the time too.
So I started to investigate.
I removed the thermostat housing to check the condition. It seemed quite rusty and corroded so I swapped it out for the stat from my spares engine (which seemed to open a lot easier)
While the thermostat housing was removed, I checked the impeller on the water pump. I put the car in gear and rocked it back and forth whilst feeling the movement of the impeller. All seems fine with it. I was told the timing belt had been changed not long before I acquired the car.
I have been right through the pipework including. The T piece return to the expansion tank. All of that seems fine too.
The car has had the EGR cooler removed so the pipework for that has been bypassed correctly.
I've checked the secondary waterpump and im not sure whether it works. I've tried to probe the connections but I can't get the pump to work. (I tried the same with the pump off my spares car too with no joy as well)
I've checked the fans and the work on both speeds. I've also checked that the fan sensor operates the fans by using a blowtorch and that makes them work. They are both working ok.
After checking all these, I drove the car and it seemed to fixed. The temp gauge stayed happily around 90 degrees and I had hot air of the blowers. I was happy. I got home and checked the expansion tank and that was still bubbling violently so my happiness disappeared.
I drove it again about an hour later and my blowers were no longer hot but the temp gauge stayed around 90.
Since then, the temp gauge mainly stays at 90 but can go up to 105ish. Then go back to 90.
My question is do you guys think my head gasket is the cause of my remaining issues. I can't see any oil in the water or water in the oil. But ive heard that that does always happen on the PD engines.
Cheers for reading such a long post!
Classic Pd head gasket symptoms you donââ,¬â,,¢t get oil in water or vice versa normally as itââ,¬â,,¢s combustion gasses passing from cylinder to cooling system.
A sniff test never normally shows anything up either as it needs to be under load to show any signs on these.
Head off job and you will see the black marking on gasket between cylinder and water jacket.
I was lucky it was obvious gasket failure and head was fine so no skim etc needed. Just hasket set,bolts,belt kit,fluids and filters etc.
Bugger!
Thanks for you help though guys! 👍👍
Sounds like you have acquired someone else's problem car.
Rusty coolant would indicate running with plain water which is not good.
Heavy pressurisation would indicate compression pressure being forced into the cooling system, almost certainly head gasket!! water pump if OK may have been changed when cam belt was done.
coolant needs to be contacting the thermo switch in the radiator for any chance of the fans working at the higher speed, while we're talking about fans does the fans run on slow speed when aircon is on? assuming your aircon does work.
Electric pump should run all the time engine is running and carry on running for three minutes after switch off 115 AUY engine, it's common for the brushes to be worn out, there is a how to to repair these in the knowledge base.
I've been running it on just water since I first encounter the overheating problem which was the MOT a month ago. I've only had it on the road since the 1st of august and only done about 70 miles in it.
It certainly does look like someone else's problem car. There are loads of things wrong with it. 😬😬
I was cheap and it came with a spares car though.
I think I'll try to do a sniff test and compression test on it to see what that shows but realistically I'll be doing the head gasket next weekend.
The sniff and compression test will probably prove nothing in my opinion,like you say realistically will be having head off it.
Been too hot of late to work in the garage so will be taking the head off on Thursday for sure. Glad others have joined in on the conversation.
Hello All,
I finally took the head off at the weekend. I was surprised that I can`t see any obvious signs of failure from the gasket. I have cleaned the head and given it as many straight edge checks as I can perform and can`t find any imperfections. I`ve put the head back on today with cambelt and will finish all other jobs at the weekend. I`m a little concerned about timing but everything went back as it should with with cam and crank clamped and marks on the belt. I`ve turned her over manually and all feels well.
Fingers crossed guys!!
Mickey
Did you use the tools to lock cam and crank or just paint mark prior to removal? Also have you changed belt kit,water pump and thermostat while it is in bits?
Thanks Johnny,
Used the proper clamping tools for cam and crank, I just marked the old belt to confirm settings. It made sense to change everything you mentioned whilst doing the job. So far, I`ve spent 7 hours of my time and Ã,£130 on parts.
Mickey
It will be fine then if locked down with the tools,did you slacken off the 3 13mm cam sprocket to hub bolts when refitting the belt? If so try and get them back in same place or torsion angle will be off which can affect running/power.
I did a write up in red library about adjusting as mine needed tweaking post head/cam work to get it running ok.
Thatââ,¬â,,¢s a massive saving on what a garage would charge you,once back together should be all ok. If not done already check the restrictor in small bore return hose to expansion bottle is clear to help bleed air out. Run a 2mm drill bit down it.
Now going out to the garage and finishing the job off. Will be back later with my results!!
Well guys the job is complete, she is running again. I only did about a mile in her just to have a clear out of any shit. I`m still not 100% sure I`ve cured her yet, I`m no mechanic by trade I just have a bloody good tool kit, the internet and you guys!!. I`ll be in touch as she will be tested properly tomorrow. Thanks again for everyone`s input.
Donââ,¬â,,¢t forget to check and top up the coolant a few times over next week or so as there will probably be air locks in system.
It`s only finally f###ing fixed!! To anyone else that reads this, don`t be in denial when it comes to a blown head gasket. The big positive with denial though, is that you change everything else before the head gasket so you end up with a bloody good car again!!
Itââ,¬â,,¢s a very common Auy problem,glad itââ,¬â,,¢s all sorted now to just drive it without fear of overheating.
Did mine and drove about 500kms 300 miles in it, does the same as before. Gutted as did a lot of things to it, converted it to new style t-belt and blanked off egr, replaced the whole head etc... Drives sweet and then after long drive with lots of load it over pressurizes... I guess the block is cracked, as it does it in a very strange fashion unlike a gasket would and one of the pistons didn't rise as high as the other ones which indicates a bent rod and it being hydrolocked before... So i guess the only way to sort it is find another bottom end or engine, but I am not sure if i will continue with it....
Having more thoughts on this, so what it does is, after I shut it down after really long run in very hot weather, it spits coolant from aux heater area. It doesn't with engine running. When I look at the expansion tank, it sits at min mark then if I open it I hear a hiss and coolant goes straight over max. If open the coolant cap at cold I still hear a hiss. I did have a problem with my heater matrix inside cabin and fixed it only with rad weld. Could it be sucking air from there? The aux water pump is not working. Never looses coolant or over heats while driving even hard. Doesn't mix oil with coolant. I even touched the hoses after a long run and they seem not hard at all, the one coming out of thermostat is a bit harder, but nothing I would consider too much... Could the radiator be blocked?. I have a new thermostat, water pump, done the head and gasket. Right now just tried pumping the coolant system to 15psi and it holds the pressure for about 5 mins.... So that would rule out the cracked block...
So why did you not sort the run on pump.
Quote from: Chrispb on September 18, 2018, 09:46:08 PM
So why did you not sort the run on pump.
No, I presumed it's not important... Could that be the reason? I will do asap and post results and I put a new expansion cap on, but haven't tested proper yet. Where I drive it is about 30c during the day. If that doesnt sort it I will put a new heather matrix on as mine was leaking and only fixed by rad weld I have some suspicion it could be sucking in air from there. A mystery... It runs a 100% right otherwise, had a long run on a mountain road and was pushing it hard to make sure didn't over heat. Also drove it at 80mph for a long time on 6th gear loads of boost, nothing unusual but then when I stopped and cut it off, did the same... Seems to pressurize only after a long hard run and after I cut it off... If I stop and leave it idling and I check the hoses, they don't seem hard at all...
So I will start with sorting the aux pump, as that's a cheap fix, if not I might replace the heather matrix, will check if all parts of the radiator do get equally hot which I haven't done yet. It doesnt seem to loose much coolant at all and doesnt use any oil. Sits at 90C all the time. Any other suggestions? Very, very strange...
The booster heater will not operate correctly without the pump working as the engine water pump is not sufficient to circulate coolant through the engine two heater matrix's the booster heater and associated pipe work but more importantly the three minute run on after engine is switched off.
The rad weld you put in could also be causing problems as it restricts/blocks cores inside rads and heater matrix.
If you do the matrix be prepared itââ,¬â,,¢s a big job on these,I did mine dash out,bulk head extension off and some well hidden bolts on bulkhead.
Also if your doing the matrix, be aware they are different between lefthand drive and righthand drive vehicles. I found this out by ending up with a lefthand one.
If you do replace the matrix its a good time to flush the system through and get rid of any remaining radweld (hosepipe in every opened end of pipe works well, just let it run till it runs clear). I wouldn't be surprised if thats whats stopped the run on pump working. If the matrix is leaking you will usually smell it if there is any antifreeze in the system, plus notice the screen misting up if your a/c isn't on or doesn't work.
The run on pump is a a job for a steady hand. But, for Ã,£3 for the parts to repair it, and some patience, worth doing for sure.
got the pump going, but definitely pressurizing, I forgot to put the washers under the head bolts even though i was super careful with everything, so I guess It will come apart again. Very slight leak so I will attempt to just do new bolts and if it doesn't work, then will do a full head gasket again.
That will cause it as bolts will be bottoming out and reaching full torque before head is clamped down fully.
If you do the head bolts one at a time make sure you go in sequence,change rocker and cam cap bolts again and also make sure itââ,¬â,,¢s cold and coolant cap is off so no pressure in system.
I spend so much time looking at other things, being too careful, measured everything and stuff, that it got so late when I dropped the new head on that it was pitch black dark and didnt see. I will do one at a time reverse sequence, hopefully the HG has no damage from combustion. It runs very well and only very slightly I feel it's pressurizing. It has a remap and the extra turbo pressure seems to be causing extra pressures in combustion chambers. Will do this ASAP and fingers crossed wont have to take it apart again... By the way the run on pump does matter in regards to air locks too. Definately when I replaced it, the system flowed a lot better.
Yes without run on pump the engine pump struggled to circulate coolant through pipework to rear heater,also after switch off it helps reduce the risk of hotspots.
I took my old bus out for a good run today, it`s lovely with the head gasket done!! I couldn't use sixth gear before as she would heat up even with both fans bypassed and running permanently. After getting home I waited an hour then went back out and released the cap, NO PRESSURE RELEASED, happy days :-) Time to start a new topic on clutch/gearbox.
Mine seems fixed with new 150 hp bolts again but with the washers this time+ flush deionized water new antifreeze and run on pump, thermostat and expansion cap. However when I flushed it this time my heather matrix started blowing steam due to flushing out all the rad weld :D I did flush it when I did the head but not fully, this time it seems I got it all out. So it's the front heater matrix left to do and it will be all good...
It isn't as bad a job as you'd expect, the worst bit i found was finding the second bolt for the dashboard (its hidden in the scuttle area behind the pollen filter casing, you can't see it directly but can feel it once you know where to look)
I have a question on AUY engine. I do not have had any overheating problems, and I tend to drive a lot of hills. My expansion tank has developed some oily, black residue on its walls over a year long period. I'm a bit confused, since PD engines do not usualy leak oil in coolant. Could it be leaky EGR cooler?
Maybe but more likely engine oil cooler also if you have auto transmission, transmission cooler.
Quote from: Chrispb on October 22, 2018, 01:00:34 AM
Maybe but more likely engine oil cooler also if you have auto transmission, transmission cooler.
Then I will change both. I have manual, so no transmission cooler.
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Hiya.
My galaxy 2004 auy engine has been overheating recently. It was a 600 quid car. Cost me another 600 for mot. Not a mechanic or do I know anything about cars really.
I've ordered some stop leak online....I know I know but I don't have the money or knowledge of how to fix it properly and I'm just going to try and keep it running while I save up to get another galaxy/sharan/alahambra.
Does anyone know how to basically bridge it before it gets scrapped. Only need to keep it going for 4/5 months.
you could check out the water pumps (engine firstly then run on pump) as you may have a dodgy impeller other than that no you'd be wasting more money as you will have head gasket failure.
The water pump was changed about 2 years ago
Was it the metal impeller type though? If it was plastic type then it could be loose on shaft.
When does it overheat? Usually these engines only overheat when under load like at speed,up hills or towing.
When going over 50/60 mph on a long journey. Hard acceleration. Expansion bottle fills up and shoots out as if it's being pumped out after filling up with steam It takes a while to do that though.
And I've not got a clue if it's metal or plastic
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Quote from: Chrispb on October 26, 2018, 04:12:20 PM
you could check out the water pumps (engine firstly then run on pump) as you may have a dodgy impeller other than that no you'd be wasting more money as you will have head gasket failure.
Im 99% certain the head gasket has blown. But I'm just looking to keep it running. Not prepared to put more money into it as there is simply too much to do
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I donââ,¬â,,¢t think thereââ,¬â,,¢s a lot you can do to limp it along until you change it,rad weld type stuff wonââ,¬â,,¢t work. Only thing I can think is removing thermostat might reduce the overheating.
Quote from: johnnyroper on October 26, 2018, 10:55:12 PM
I donââ,¬â,,¢t think thereââ,¬â,,¢s a lot you can do to limp it along until you change it,rad weld type stuff wonââ,¬â,,¢t work. Only thing I can think is removing thermostat might reduce the overheating.
Or maybe just leave the expansion cap off and keep topping it up. It's the build up of pressure that causes the biggest problem. I originally thought it was just an air lock. Heaters were working yesterday at the front. Put more coolant in it and put the cap on. Woke up this morning and no coolant hardly. I've not noticed any loss of power or rough idle. I just know I'm going to get rid asap when I have the money lol
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Quote from: Django Williams on October 26, 2018, 11:02:00 PM
Or maybe just leave the expansion cap off and keep topping it up. It's the build up of pressure that causes the biggest problem. I originally thought it was just an air lock. Heaters were working yesterday at the front. Put more coolant in it and put the cap on. Woke up this morning and no coolant hardly. I've not noticed any loss of power or rough idle. I just know I'm going to get rid asap when I have the money lol
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Might be worth checking the radiator is actually getting warm - a blocked rad could account for you having problems at that sort of speed (flushing out with hose may improve it if so). If you don't have an actual leak the stop leak type products will only make the problem worse (blowing coolant out of the expansion cap isn't a leak, its the result of either combustion pressure leaking into the coolant, or poor coolant circulation causing the high pressure to be generated).
Quote from: brianh on October 26, 2018, 11:24:49 PM
Might be worth checking the radiator is actually getting warm - a blocked rad could account for you having problems at that sort of speed (flushing out with hose may improve it if so). If you don't have an actual leak the stop leak type products will only make the problem worse (blowing coolant out of the expansion cap isn't a leak, its the result of either combustion pressure leaking into the coolant, or poor coolant circulation causing the high pressure to be generated).
So it could still be an air lock? Or blockage. I've done the conventional head gasket tests. Looked for mayo in oil cap. Looked for oil or small little bubbles when you first start it up. Got on all 4s and sniffed my exhaust when it's been running and got the missus to tell me if I get the white smoke and none of them seem to be evident. When I squeezed the radiator hose I could hear the gurgling sound and topped it up. Left the cap off and ran it with heaters on max....yesterday Got warm. Now it's only slightly warmer than cold. Also I only noticed it at the weekend on a 100 mile run when about 30 minutes in. The temperature gauge was beeping and flashing. Then I pulled over. Saw my coolant was literally filling the entire resovior tank. Opened it up and the stuff went everywhere.
Struggled to start but soon kicked in after a second or 2 and it done the rest of the trip with temp gauge fluctuating between 90 and 120 degrees....more so uphill or going over 50/60 And the gauge would go up quite quick.
I had just topped the coolant up and never bled it because I honestly didn't know I had to or how to. I thought it was like if you have to top the oil up lol #imadumbasswithcars.
But it drives ok. Starts Ok. No rough idle. Apart from temperature gauge going up and heater being only slightly warmer than the reception Gary glitter would get if he walked into a school.
Obviously I suspect the head gasket (if it is how long would it last with nursing it) but kind of hoping it's down to me not bleeding it of air properly and causing and airlock lol
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I would put money on head gasket with those symptoms,on the diesels unless you are on a decent run the thermostat will not be opening especially now weather is getting colder.
The overheating will be down to combustion gasses in cooling system causing excessive pressure so coolant is not circulating correctly,it is instead pushing it up and out of the expansion cap pressure release.
Taking stat out and allowing a bigger cooling circuit all the time might help by making it go longer before boiling up,but apart from doing the head there is no other way of resolving it.
I have been there with the PD lump in my old gal.