Hi everyone;
This is my first of soon to be many posts on here!
I'm suffering a bit battery drain if left too long.
Last night it tested up at about 12.29v but this morning, it was 11.92.
(About 6 hours between switching off and starting up again.)
It cranks over very slowly, then cranks faster but doesn't start.
Turn off and start again, it'll start just fine!
I don't know if there's any common faults on these for battery drain, but it's a seemingly well looked after car & looks to have a 'fairly new' battery, so I
THINKI can rule that out.
When car is running, it hits 14.3v on battery terminals.
It's a little slow to warm up, too!
I know the drivers side front and rear speakers don't work and I'm assuming it's due to the door wiring, much like many other cars!
I've also read about the tailgate wiring and a fuse box/alternator wiring problem, if someone could elaborate a little?
Only faults found on VCDS were:
QuoteAddress 08: Auto HVAC Labels: Redir Fail!
Part No: 7M3 907 049 C
Component: Klimabetaetigung 0404
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 377AB3F3455E2386AC-50E6
3 Faults Found:
01189 - Front Air Distribution Flap Motor (V145)
009 - Open or Short to Ground
01271 - Positioning Motor for Temperature Flap (V68)
009 - Open or Short to Ground
00926 - Terminal 30
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: None
Part No: 7M3 962 258 AH
Component: Multifunkt.Einh 0002
Coding: 04113
Shop #: WSC 00020
VCID: 0008182F0010A43E5D-5000
1 Fault Found:
00956 - Key 2
09-10 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
Part No: 1C0 909 605 F
Component: 0E AIRBAG VW61 0Q0M 0003
Coding: 12357
Shop #: WSC 00020
VCID: 275A63B3C5FEB3063C-5072
1 Fault Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
Address 56: Radio Labels: 1J0-035-15x-56.lbl
Part No: 1J0 035 152 E
Component: Radio BNO 0006
Coding: 00003
Shop #: WSC 00020
VCID: 204878AFA0D0443E7D-4A3A
2 Faults Found:
00852 - Loudspeaker(s); Front
36-00 - Open Circuit
00855 - Connection to CD changer
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 76: Park Assist Labels: 7M3-919-283.clb
Part No: 7M3 919 283
Component: Parkingsyst. SH RDW D02
Coding: 00117
Shop #: WSC 00020
VCID: 77FA73F355DEE3866C-5072
4 Faults Found:
01545 - Sensor for Parking Aid; Rear Left (G203)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
01546 - Sensor for Parking Aid; Rear Mid-Left (G204)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
01547 - Sensor for Parking Aid; Rear Mid-Right (G205)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
01548 - Sensor for Parking Aid; Rear Right (G206)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
I don't want to go around replacing battery, alternator and starter before getting a definite diagnosis (or a proper 'how to' diagnose).
If anyone could give some advice to this, it'd be much appreciated!
Many thanks!
Mark.
(And if anyone wants VCDS/Vag-Com scanning done in the Tyne & Wear area, let me know!)
Try here
https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/galaxy-testing-for-parasitic-battery-drain-(battery-looses-charge-quickly)/msg4545/#msg4545
Have a check for signs of overheating in battery fuse box first.
Have you done an alternator output check make sure it is providing enough?connect ammeter up in series to see if you have a current draw when everything is off.
If it is slow then fast cranking I would also be concentrating more on starter/wiring to and battery to body/engine earths.
I wouldn't go chucking parts at it until I have done the above.
When I say fast cranking, I meant in relation to the speed it was originally cranking.
The fuse box is as attached, but I've also attached the battery, which is quite new from the looks of it, BUT it's only a 70ah battery? Aren't most 90ah or am I just being weird? Haha.
Thanks guys & girls.
Fuse box looks fine but the battery is indeed wrong, 70ah isn't enough but more importantly the CCA (or Cold Crank Amps on that battery is only 580amps where it should be closer to 700.
i suspect the variation in crank speed it due to the above, the glowplugs are probably on initially and the battery can't support the load needed to also turn the engine over. This isn't ideal but alone isn't the cause of the of battery drain.
You need to measure what the car is drawing when 'asleep' as per the link above.
Fuse box looks ok.
So the cranking speed is down on before?
What is voltage of battery and what is charge rate?
You could try getting someone with jump leads to see if that makes it crank better,if it does then I would think battery is weak. If it doesn't then need to look at earths and positive connection first then starter motor change.
I've not checked the drain rate of the battery as I've been working, but I'm just wondering;
Since the engine is the ASZ, would most the Golf/A3/Fabia parts be a fit, or are they completely different?
I'm assuming a lot of parts (mainly engine parts such as injectors, alternators, starters & boxes, etc.) would fit, but what about electrics and exhaust parts, drive shafts and more?
I'll do a series check on the battery tomorrow for the constant drain amount whilst pulling fuses.
JohnnyRoper;
The cranking starts off REALLY slow and 'struggling', so I'll stop the turn over, start again and it speeds up to a 'normal' speed and bursting into life, just like what a low battery would do, but I wouldn't of thought it'd start at all if it was low enough to slow the crank? It never did on my A6, A4 Avant, or other cars in the past.
I expect most of the basic engine parts would be the same, driveshafts unlikely unless the other vehicles happen to have exactly the same track, exhaust components unlikely as the floorpans are different with different suspension setups (and the Galaxy, Sharan etc exhaust pipe is shaped to clear the rear subframe/ axle assembly), electrics- certain sensors yes, wiring looms for the most part no as the chassis layouts and spacings differ. You'll probably find some of the engine bay plumbing, coolant pipe routing etc differs as well.
Starter could well be the same but alternator on sharan/galaxy will probably be higher output. Gearbox also different I would imagine as golf will be geared differently,basic casing might be the same?
Despite having wrong battery it does not sound like it is cause of the problems in my opinion as stopping the crank and starting again and getting a faster crank wouldn't happen with a duff or flat battery. I don't think you will find a drain fault with it. Sounds more like an iffy starter to me as the cranking speed changes.
I'll do a video of it shortly;
So you can see what I mean if that makes things easier?
Would having a duff starter reset the clock & trip computer back to 00:00/0.0?
I wouldn't have thought so.
In that case looking at battery or connection issue as clock etc resets.
Mark can you confirm year of your car ? you have it down as MK1 but as you have the battery fuse box and 115ps it will be MK2, good idea to squeeze the year into your details as others have done.
Hi Chrispb;
That car was what I'd went to buy and joined the forum for! As I like to be involved in these sorts of things for help and helping.
I ended up buying a Sharan Mk1.75 (Mk2), PD130 ASZ engine.
So this morning;
The battery was completely fine in charge @ 12.3V
There was no high drain items of any sort, so could it be the battery isn't providing the cranking power, even though it's voltage is fine, the amperage for it is lower than recommended?
The alternator tested up fine, too.
So it's either the starter or the battery I'm guessing.
Hi, recently my daughters car would not start or even turn over and the clock and date all reset themselves to factory default settings. There was also a loud clicking noise when trying to start. When I tried to jump start it the starter motor would still not turn. I guessed the starter motor might be stuck so I put it in 1st gear and rocked the car back and forth. This freed the starter motor and it would now jump start no problem. It turned out to be the battery, it's free to get it checked out somewhere like a tyre and battery fitters..
That would be my first port of call, see if it will jump start, if it does the starter is most probably ok and then get a free battery check. They just connect an electronic battery tester which will tell you how many cca (cold cranking amps) your battery is putting out compared with what it was originally rated at. This will tell you whether the battery is your problem.