I tried today to change that fun shaft everybody is talking about, but didn`t got far. Bolt that goes in gearbox keeps spinning around and doesn`t come out. Somebody has any suggestions besides buying new gearbox?
This is the one in the centre of the stub axel? Does it go loose and tighten up when you go the other way or is it just loose?
Are both wheels off of the ground whilst you are trying to remove the bolt? Unless the captive nut that the bolt threads into is broken inside the differential, putting the vehicle into gear and having the opposite wheel on the ground to the side where the stub shaft is should stop the differential spinning in order to allow you to loosen the bolt.
it is one that goes in gearbox. oposite wheel in on the ground, and i did put it in gear. tried to loosen and tighten, but nothing happens.
Does it just spin with the same amount of resistance or does the amount of resistance change when you try to remove it?
resistance changes just a little bit
Hm, sounds like the captive nut that the bolt threads into might be spinning inside of the gear pinion within the differential. You could try an impact gun to see if that can jar the bolt free.
will try that tomorrow, but if it works will i bee able to get it back in?
I would think so but whether you could tighten it up properly would be another matter! I think I'm right in saying that the bolt you're attempting to remove threads into number 13 on this (http://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/sharan+syncro+4motion/sha/2004-406/4/409-409014/) diagram.
seems about right.
just got part from poland and thought that i could change that before going on 1500km trim on thursday.
Did not found any red dust, so i thought it shouldnt be that bad. There was some cooked grease inside that had collected all dust :D and shaft was so worn that i wouldnt risk it to drive anymore.
Another question. I couldnt find if gearbox from motor code BVK fits mine. I have engine code AUY and gearbox is FUX.
a little update.
impact gun worked like a charm. So big thanks to insanitybeard. Treads on screw were gone, same on other side, so made new one on gearbox side and with shaky hands managed to get new screw in.
tried to put in new stub and it worked not quite as expected, it didnt go in all the way, about 3mm i guess.
I used tower type bearing mount holes to put up some leverage point and it worked like a charm to get in bolt. sorry for crapy picture, phones battery was close to empty, so no flash.
The crucial thing is that you were able to thread your replacement screws into the captive nuts and that the threads in the nuts themselves weren't ruined, otherwise that would be a gearbox out & strip job to replace them! [CRY]
Anyway, [GJ]
A little update. Just came back from our holidays trip and drove more than 4000km. And my cow is still going strong. After i got away from our crappy roads i found out that i need a new drive axle. Funny thing is that sound of bad axle bearing is exactly the same when you drive with spikes on scraped icy road. Got two new axles with sweet discount and still cheaper than one in norway. Changing them took me not more than one hour in slow pace. Now i finally do not have that annoying clunk when shifting gears and gearshift may feel a bit smoother. I`m starting to think that i need to replace gearbox oil, driving in extreme cold weather transmission feels less catchy. Could be that i have wrong oil in box. Probably need a new battery. when it goes below -25 outside, my battery does not have enough juice to turn starter more than 5 rounds....