this is a story all about how my life got turned fliped upside down ... well you get the idea its an old story but new one for me I have had the Galaxy for 2 months and its been playing up only a week or so after i got it
so this is what I know and what ive done the car will start first time (mostly i left it a week without driving it and it took a few goes to start it) it started first time this morning and it was -0.5 this morning
it will idle for about 5 to 10 mins with a little bit of stuttering then cut out/ stall when cold or it will drive for about 1.8 miles then stall / cut out if im on a fast road I can sometimes drive through it but on the commute to work its almost impossible to do that ..
ones it stalls / cuts out I is very hard to start and a fully charged battery got drained this morning trying to re start it
the door led is on constantly for about 1.5 seconds then gose out their are no errors on the ecu at all and i have change the 109 relay but im still at a loss
can anyone point me in the correct direction
btw once it has warmed up and restated it will run fine
it sometimes feels like its not firing all the cylinders (lumpy tick over ) but like i say the car is not reporting any faults
Help pls
I'm no expert, but it does sound a lot like fuel starvation, does the in tank pump make a buzzing sound when you initially turn on the ignition? fuel filter clogged, Crud in the tank maybe also a reason. I wouldn't rule out cam/crank sensors either, but, I would have thought that these would get worse as engine warms up. These are just my initial thoughts, as said before I'm no expert( but not an idiot either :P).
Jim any input is more than welcome i need some direction to look i ruled out fuel as it will run fine once the temp gauge get of its resting place ... im def so no sure about the sound .. the fuel filter looks new so im guessing the former owner had the problem couldnt get it fixed so sold the car
How do i get at the fuel pump to check it?
Get someone to turn ignition on while you are in back and see if you can hear it,or take the fuel inlet off filter and put in bottle and see if it puts fuel out when putting ignition on.
As for your fault have you had codes read and checked measure blocks to see what the coolant and temp sensors are registering?
You could fit some clear fuel pipe between filter and head to see if there are air bubbles in them when fault occurs.
Quote from: Geduk on November 08, 2016, 03:25:34 PM
it will run fine once the temp gauge get of its resting place
Before going too far I'd check the coolant temperature sensor out as per the previous post as they can cause running concerns if defective, the fact that it's only in the warm up phase that the problem is occurring
could indicate a fault related to the coolant sensor, needs somebody else to chip in here though as I can't remember if there are separate sensors for the temp gauge and the PCM or if they both take their readings from the same sensor.
Pump is located in tank and is accessible through inspection plate in floor under middle row of seats toward the right hand side.
You should be able to hear the pump momentarily when turning on ignition, sounds like a squelch noise.
You can confirm pump working by removing either inlet or outlet hose from fuel filter, switch on ignition you should get a good squirt of fuel for a second or so, try and catch the fuel in a container to avoid making a mess and have plenty of rag available.
had the issue of stalling when engine hot ... iv changed that wee coolant sensor ..that fixed the problem..
wow thanks guys for all your hint and tips all things that i can look at and check
funny but I cant get the car started now well it started for a about 60 seconds during that time I was able to get the odb showing a small increase in the temp on the coolant sensor it looked to be climbing but at this point ive no idea if it was working as expected
ive no one to help with turning the car on hearing the fuel pump so im going to have to go down the fuel hose off and the clear hose method but its too dark to see anything tonight
from looking at the fuel filter their are two tubes at the back and two coming out towards the front of the car im guessing the back two are in and the front two are flow out and where i need to put the clear pipe
it looks like I need to take the entire floor carpet up if i want to get to the fuel pump ?
once again thankyou to every one for chipping in its very heartening to know their are helpful and friendly people around here :)
this coolant sensor where would i find it if its cheap i dont see much reason to not change it
You can hear the pump when sitting in driving seat.
Only remove the hose(s) directly on the filter not the ones on the thermostatic valve these are returns
https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/coolant-temperature-sensor-removal-(mk2-tdi-115ps)/
Quote from: Chrispb on November 08, 2016, 07:56:52 PM
You can hear the pump when sitting in driving seat.
Only remove the hose(s) directly on the filter not the ones on the thermostatic valve these are returns
https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/coolant-temperature-sensor-removal-(mk2-tdi-115ps)/
thanks Chris that helps alot and makes sence your a Gent
The coolant temp sensor is right hand side of engine above gearbox,it's screwed in to a water housing on side of the head pointing towards bulkhead if memory serves correctly.
As for the pump if it's working you will hear it prime for a couple of seconds when switching ignition on. Although even if that's not working I still think engine would run as tandem pump should be able to drag the fuel up. Some vag cars with the PD didn't have the pump in Tank.
With diagnostics connected check the coolant temp and fuel temp readings on a non running cold engine they should be roughly the same reading,once running fuel will climb faster than coolant though.
So i have an update after struggling now get the car started at all I moved to test the glow plugs I found that two were not good one having a high omhs reading and one being open so I replaced them with the hope it would clear the problem but it still struggled to start
next thing was to test fuel flow I got my next door neighbor to give me a had he said he could hear the pump start, removing the fuel inlet pipe to the filter proved fuel flow and removing the filter fuel outlet / feed pipe proved fuel was going through the filter so I got some clear hose and low and behold one I could see the fuel going but with bubbles lots of bubbles ..
so i guess this is where I need to look and sort out next will it be the fuel pump or the filter ... im sure ive read on here somewhere about fuel bubbles ...
just to be clear the air that was in the hose when i put it on that should go and not be the cause of constant bubble?
It has been said that failure to renew the O-rings on the pipes which locate into the fuel filter when the fuel filter is replaced can result in air ingress to the fuel system. Have these been replaced to your knowledge? Can you test to see if the bubbles are getting into the fuel lines before (i.e, upstream of) the filter itself?
Define o ring ? From what i see the hose attaches to the filter but and is held in place by the spring clip things i think the filter has been changed but i like you thinking as far as checking the inlet side i can do that but im starting the think the air could be self made as i just pushed the clear pipe on and ran the car . Ie no retaining clips
The o rings on thermostatic T piece in filter,take spring clip off and pull valve out there should be 2 on there. Aftermarket filters are particularly prone to letting air in. The valves can also cause air to be drawn in.
Which pipe did you fit clear to was it the feed to tandem pump from filter?
Yes the feed from filter to the engine from it connects directly under the maf pipe
I now understand were the o rings go ill have a look in daylight
Do they come with a new filter?
That's the feed to tandem pump,so if air coming in via that hose stands a chance it is the valve or O rings
Yes seals should come with new filter,I had to put slightly thicker ones on mine as the valve did not feel like a tight enough fit as I used a non genuine filter. Best bet is change filter for one from the dealer and see how it goes then.
check also the hoses are fitted to the correct points on the filter? as in the photo.
a member had a similar problem about a year ago turned out to be the two hoses to the front were the wrong way around.
Got a filter from ecp but it didnt come with O rings anyone know what the spec of the O rings is better still the ecp part number i was also wondering if i should just get a new connector to rule that out is it something ecp would do or is it a vw/ford part only ?
The thermostat is probably best sourced from VW as they use it on a lot of the diesel cars,probably have to order in at ford. No idea of spec of o rings but new stat will come with them.
I got mine from Ford but they did have to be ordered in, part no. 1207381, number 12 on this (https://ford.7zap.com/en/car/140/no/0/2556/19508/85629/) parts diagram.
VW part no. 1J0198247
Ok new filter and t valve rubbers replaced how do i bleed the air thats in the system?
In theory if you manually fill the new filter with diesel (once you've fitted it) to minimise the amount of air present in the fuel system and then reconnect all hoses and prime the system a few times by switching the ignition from position 0 to position 2 and then back to position 0 again (repeat this a few times) to allow the in tank lift pump to pump some fuel up from the tank, this should suffice. In some instances though the vehicle can still be a bugger a restart and for this reason when I renew a fuel filter I'll use a hand held suction pump (Mityvac) to bleed the fuel through and remove any trapped air bubbles before reconnecting everything and cranking the engine over.
So any remaining air should bleed it self out after a while?
Yes Once up and running any trapped air will soon go. mityvac on return from tandem pump works a treat to get the pump and injectors mostly free of air.
But if you don't have one cycling the ignition as above will also work it might take a bit longer cranking and run rough initially but soon sort itself out.
Have never manually bleed the MK2, turning the ignition on and off ten times has always been sufficient to not cause any starting or running problems.
MK1's are a different story as they don't have the intank pump so has to rely the fuel injection pump to draw the fuel through the filter so pre filling is a good option if no hand pump is available.
I would suggest to open the fuel tank and check the filter on the lift pump.
Mine was stalling at idle when it wanted and then almost impossible to start again... Lift pump filter was clogged, since I have cleaned no more problems. (I also cleaned the fuel tank once it was open)
Quote from: casquerman on November 15, 2016, 12:55:08 PM
I would suggest to open the fuel tank and check the filter on the lift pump.
Mine was stalling at idle when it wanted and then almost impossible to start again... Lift pump filter was clogged, since I have cleaned no more problems. (I also cleaned the fuel tank once it was open)
how did you get to the lift pump ?
There's a helpful access hatch in the floor panel but you need to partly lift the carpet- take a read here (https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/ford-galaxy-in-tank-fuel-pump-level-sender-removal-replacement/).
Thanks for the info i was hoping i didnt need to take the carpet up
Some info on the fuel filter O rings / gaskets
The vw part number is 1J0 198 247
I dont have a micrometer but they are both about 13mm wide and 2mm thick no idea what the diffrence is between the black and blue ones but my guess is that the rubber are a little softer on the blue one
So ive now got the car starting again i still intend to have a look at the lift pump
But i think its still going to stall it did while i had it running sat on the drive and playing with vcds now most things seam ok tbh put the egr valve readings seam a little off see attached photo and my cylinder readings were a little out of range (if im understanding vcds and its giving exspected range below the boxs )
What block numbers should i log ?
Update following on from replacing the fuel filter and three days of driving around with no problems
on the way home tonight the car didnt stall but it lacked power I put my foot down and nothing it didnt speed up
so I got the vcds out (i rest all the old codes at the weekend ) and these two error came up
17965 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1557 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
and
16688 - Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected
P0304 - 35-00 - -
anyone care to point me in the correct direction ?
FYI I have since put a new air box filter in that I was going to do this weekend but brought it forward
17965, sticking turbo. Loads of topics on here about that, get the revs up!
16688, cylinder 4 didnt fire when expected. Injector wiring - also very common.
Mirez has beaten me to it but............
Cylinder misfire codes are commonly caused by connection issues with the injector wiring loom (https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/ford-galaxy-injector-wiring-loom-removal-replacement) which passes through the cylinder head, for peace of mind a new loom is the way to go but if you don't want to spend the money some success has been reported by simply cleaning the connections and using a fine screwdriver to close up the spring terminals on each injector connector plug to ensure they are making proper contact.
2 ways to go with the turbo
Quick way get some mr muscle down egr hole with a length of pipe and leave an hour or 2,occasionally working vnt lever.
Or have turbo off to strip and clean manually.
Then once up and running and boosting correctly be sure to give it some full throttle 3rd gear blasts joining motorway every week or so to help stop carbon build up.
That's assuming all vac system is working ok.
Quote from: Mirez on November 24, 2016, 05:11:54 PM
17965, sticking turbo. Loads of topics on here about that, get the revs up!
16688, cylinder 4 didnt fire when expected. Injector wiring - also very common.
thanks for putting into plain english what the faults are that helps alot ive got the "P" code pdf but that dosent help with the 1xxxx numbers when it says get the full vertion ... :)
Quote from: johnnyroper on November 24, 2016, 06:36:32 PM
2 ways to go with the turbo
Quick way get some mr muscle down egr hole with a length of pipe and leave an hour or 2,occasionally working vnt lever.
Or have turbo off to strip and clean manually.
Then once up and running and boosting correctly be sure to give it some full throttle 3rd gear blasts joining motorway every week or so to help stop carbon build up.
That's assuming all vac system is working ok.
mr muscle.... really ... any danger of damage ?
I think Mr Muscle oven cleaner (presumably containing Sodium Hydroxide) could damage aluminium parts and possibly rubber and plastic if it came into contact with it but within the exhaust side of the turbo it's nearly all cast iron/ steel (and soot!) apart from the turbine wheel and shaft which will be of a chemically resistant alloy (nickel/ chromium possibly?) anyway so it's unlikely to do much harm within the turbine housing.
Quote from: insanitybeard on November 24, 2016, 07:15:37 PM
I think Mr Muscle oven cleaner (presumably containing Sodium Hydroxide) could damage aluminium parts and possibly rubber and plastic if it came into contact with it but within the exhaust side of the turbo it's nearly all cast iron/ steel (and soot!) apart from the turbine wheel and shaft which will be of a chemically resistant alloy (nickel/ chromium possibly?) anyway so it's unlikely to do much harm within the turbine housing.
thanks for your input im looking up how to clean the turbo atm to see how much work is involved
cylinder no4 would be what one if looking at the lump stood at the bumper ?
I know sometimes the injectors can be numbered in firing order as opposed to cylinder number but the consensus here was that it refers to the cylinder number with number 1 being the timing belt end and number 4 being the flywheel end, as previously discussed here. (https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy/injector-order)
I have done the mr muscle treatment and it is fairly easy on these old gals,get egr pipe off exhaust manifold and slowly feed a long piece of 3mm bore tubing down making sure it enters the turbine housing and not in to cylinder head.
Attach tubing to the outlet on mr muscle can and spray in until it starts to come out of the egr outlet then leave it to settle in for hour or 2.
As above it cannot damage the internals of the turbo as it's not ally.
Google mr muscle turbo clean and it comes up loads of people on bag forums have done it and had good results,however it is not a substitute for strip down and clean manually. But so long as the engine gets some blasts under load it should be ok for a fair while after.
Quote from: johnnyroper on November 24, 2016, 07:54:40 PM
I have done the mr muscle treatment and it is fairly easy on these old gals,get egr pipe off exhaust manifold and slowly feed a long piece of 3mm bore tubing down making sure it enters the turbine housing and not in to cylinder head.
Attach tubing to the outlet on mr muscle can and spray in until it starts to come out of the egr outlet then leave it to settle in for hour or 2.
As above it cannot damage the internals of the turbo as it's not ally.
Google mr muscle turbo clean and it comes up loads of people on bag forums have done it and had good results,however it is not a substitute for strip down and clean manually. But so long as the engine gets some blasts under load it should be ok for a fair while after.
so your talking about removing no 9 and pipeing through no 8 in the picture?
No! What you're highlighting is the intake side with the intercooler pipework feeding into the aluminum inlet manifold and EGR valve! The pipe being referred to above feeds hot exhaust gas from the exhaust manifold/ turbo back to the EGR valve and will most likely need to be accessed from underneath the vehicle. If I can find an image of it to post later on today I will.
It is under the inlet manifold you will see a metal pipe with convoluted flexi on it,locate where it connects to exhaust manifold with 2 13mm head nuts that's where you want to go in.
You will probably need bulkhead extension piece off for better access.
Here's an image taken from the underside, you need to disconnect the pipe from the exhaust manifold at the bolted/ flanged joint where the yellow arrow is:
[attachimg=1]
Depending what way you tackle it may be easier to gain access from the exhaust outlet if working from under the car,just undo the 3 nuts and move exhaust out of the way.
I was able to get mine from up top fairly easy but mine no longer has egr or egr cooler so benefits from a bit more space.
Wow good job i checked.........
Thanks for the picture its the third pipe back in the photo ie not the little silver one just in the forground by the arrow im thinking?
Ive desided im going to make some room in my garage this weekend then change the oil do the mr muscle and whip the head off and clean the injector loom or replace it next weekend still cant decided if i want to do a strait swop on the loom or try a repair first...
From a personal point of view if I was taking the rocker box off to check/clean the loom I would replace it. Nothing worse than going to trouble of doing only to find after it needs replacing.
When you do mr muscle make sure you exercise the vnt lever while the stuff is soaking in. Ensure it goes through its full travel and feels nice and smooth in operation.
Quote from: Geduk on November 25, 2016, 02:00:49 PM
Thanks for the picture its the third pipe back in the photo ie not the little silver one just in the forground by the arrow im thinking?
It's the larger bore pipe with the flanged joint onto the exhaust manifold, the smaller bore silver pipe you can see in the foreground is the oil feed pipe to the turbo. Removing the exhaust downpipe from the turbo by the 3 studded flange (one of the studs is visible in the picture infront of the oil feed pipe) as suggested above is also an option, it just depends on how easily the studs will come out- most likely the action of attempting to remove the nuts will also unscrew the studs with them.
Update on this problem
so oil and all filters changed and it seams to have improved the problem oil was black as the night
Ive still not took the fuel pump out to clean ( cant stand the smell of diesel so thats a last resort)
Turbo not stuck since the oil change but im all set to mr muscle if it comes back
Will start and run ok to it was about 6c no stall
Yesterday 2c it wouldnt play ball at all and interesting the miss fire was back so i think the miss fire is part of the problem or the problem as ive not had a misfire since the last stall
So i got to thinking what if i got my auxiliary heater working that would help as this problem is only when its cold ...
So first problem no connection to heater the red wire was clearly broken fixed that but now im getting open circuit on both the glow plug and blower so im guessing its a fault on the brown wire (d5w z unit i think from what i could read)
Anyway i need to open her up and the bottom torx bolts are not moving for love or money ive two rounded torx drivers insted so my question is anyone got any tips on how to open the thing up ... heat on the case maybe i have never drilled out a thred so realy dont fancy doing that
Ps i think the spec of the bolt/screw is 5mm 65mm long ...? A recommendation for bolt replacement anyone?
The aux heater won't really help with your problem in my opinion as it needs engine running to be able to operate and if you are having stalling issues then it won't run.
Have you had vcds on and checked measure blocks to see what the temp sensors are doing?
As for the heater I had a few damaged wires stopping it from working and connecting to diagnostics,ended up chopping plugs off and soldering the heater wiring in to the loom under internal sill trim.
Only way to remove the bolts when like that is to drill them if it was me I would drill enough to remove the head then strip heater apart so you can grip the bolt shaft with mole grips/stud extractor etc.
Quote from: johnnyroper on December 13, 2016, 06:43:13 PM
The aux heater won't really help with your problem in my opinion as it needs engine running to be able to operate and if you are having stalling issues then it won't run.
Have you had vcds on and checked measure blocks to see what the temp sensors are doing?
As for the heater I had a few damaged wires stopping it from working and connecting to diagnostics,ended up chopping plugs off and soldering the heater wiring in to the loom under internal sill trim.
Only way to remove the bolts when like that is to drill them if it was me I would drill enough to remove the head then strip heater apart so you can grip the bolt shaft with mole grips/stud extractor etc.
As it tends to start then stall after about a mile and can tick over for about 5 to 10 mins i figure its worth a go and it needs fixing so its worth popping it open and fixing it
Can anyone confirm the bolt spec so i can get replacements before drill them
Also would a 22mm water pipe be a good / suitable thing to bridge the coolant pipes while i remove the heater?
The coolent and fuel temps are working and going up as it warms (via vcds)
Cant confirm pipe size required but I think bolt specs may be in the guide in ref library?
Sounds like you could have some fuel run back due to air entering system to me for it to cause miss and stall issues? I have a slight leak from one of the injector seals that causes lumpy start up after being left overnight. Always worse when it's colder aswell.
Yeah you can temp join with a piece of 22mm copper pipe.
Attached is the parts catalogue for the heater :)
Quote from: johnnyroper on December 13, 2016, 07:18:03 PM
Cant confirm pipe size required but I think bolt specs may be in the guide in ref library?
Sounds like you could have some fuel run back due to air entering system to me for it to cause miss and stall issues? I have a slight leak from one of the injector seals that causes lumpy start up after being left overnight. Always worse when it's colder aswell.
oh how did you find / fix the leak that would seam logical
Quote from: Mirez on December 13, 2016, 07:27:27 PM
Yeah you can temp join with a piece of 22mm copper pipe.
Attached is the parts catalogue for the heater :)
oh thats perfect id not come across that
its thanks to your pdf the one that includes the wiring diagram / pin out and the instructions on here that have given me the confidence to do the job maybe if you ever re do the pdf the vcds screen shots with the blocks labled and adding the red wire problem would help more people in the futuer
many thanks
Ged
I tried a couple of ways first I clamped pipes from tank to filter overnight and started it briefly with clamps still on,car ran fine.
I then clamped feed to tandem pump and fitted a piece of fuel hose to the return on tandem pump with a shrader valve in so I could use foot pump to put a few pound of pressure in to system. The pressure dropped off overnight. I swapped tandem pump to elimainate but it made no difference. Also had clear fuel hose on the return so I could physically see air bubbles,came to conclusion I have damaged a seal when I had injectors out.
It's on my list to sort when time permits.
Quote from: Geduk on December 13, 2016, 07:52:11 PM
if you ever re do the pdf the vcds screen shots with the blocks labled and adding the red wire problem would help more people in the futuer
Did you take screenshots or photos of that wire? We can edit all the RL articles but we need people to assist with the media ;)
funny i almost took a photo of the broken lead I will be taking it back off so im happy to take some photos covering the basic continuity test ot the leads and repaire
and ill take some of how i get those two bolts out out of intrest the M5 x16 and M5 x65 what have people gone for when replacing them Ie torx again allen key or nut ? it seams to me that torx and just not up to the job when it comes to hard to remove bolts
Go for torx or Allen but use stainless ones with plenty of copper grease,the problem comes from a mixture of dissimilar metals and the exposure to the weather along with heating cycles.
I plan to use stainless torx screws from the likes of these guys (http://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/ScrewBolt_M.html) when I finally get round to installing my new heater unit, and that goes for the various fasteners holding the top covers etc onto the heater itself as well as the fasteners that hold the heater into it's carrier bracket!
Can someone tell me if this screw is threaded above the cover or will i be able to work the side cover off with the sezed screw in place?
That's threaded in main heat exchanger so the cover should slide off,however it could be tight due to build up of corrosion around the bolt shaft.
Thanks mate thats what i was hoping one i get that off i should be able to un screw the thing any requests for photos while ive got it off fyi 22mm pipe is perfect size for bridging ths coolant
Always good to get some pictures of what you find and do to it then post up a how to for others to use. I am terrible I did loads to mine my galaxy when firsts owning it but never took pics,it is on back burner at present but when I crack on with injector seals and remove/strip and set up turbo I will get pics and do write up.
With the heater you might need to soak in wd40 to loosen the corrosion overnight before trying to pry apart.
Ended up with using brute force rubber mallet and a screw diver worked quite well tbh
But my fan is seized up has anyone striped one down before how do you get the fan part off (i mean the plastic fan that is on the mini motor) i cant see how it comes apart
I took my combustion fan apart as it was seized,not the easiest to strip as it required the metal tabs bending back to prise case apart. Harder still getting back together.
My advise is spary some wd40 on bearing at each end and leave overnight to penetrate then try turning it.
Did/ dose the plasic fan pull off or unscrew and if so clock wise or anti clock wise i dont think wd40 will do the trick its it got a grinding sound like something is stuck under the plastic fan but if i can find more wd40 ill give it a go
Ive nothing to lose im not paying Ã,£200 for a new fan assembly
The plastic fan rotor/ impeller runs very close to the aluminium housing with only a small amount of clearance and the aluminium housings/ castings due to their exposed position where the heater is mounted underneath the car can corrode and 'fur up' with a layer of white oxide, it's possible it's corrosion of the alloy which has removed the clearance between the rotor and casting and caused it to become seized.
The impeller just pulls off if I remember correctly,but as Paul said clearance is very limited.
Does it spin when out of heater by hand? Mine was free to spin but when fitted was stuck,I shimmed out the cover with small washers to give some clearance.
No it will go round but with some force required if i power the motor with 12v i can here it trying to turn but i will not ill have to pull it off then
If the bearing is knackered it can be removed as I had them off mine,maybe able to get a number off them and source replacements online? Certainly far cheaper than cost of new combustion motor!