This is an easy job and can be tackled by any DIY enthusiast. Depending on the old version fitted you will need a 17/18/19mm socket, similar sized spanner's and possibly an hex/allen key.
The important thing to remember with this job is that the anti-roll bar is trying to keep the car level - if you are parked on a gradient or jack just one side of the car up then the drop link will be under tension. The car must be level when tackling this job.
It's possibly to do this job with the wheel on full lock but access it greatly improved by removing the wheel. Jack the car up and then remove the wheel. Place a block of wood under the suspension arm and then lower the car back down slightly (and very carefully) to remove the weight and level the body.
The old nuts (Green arrow) can then be undone and the old link removed. Most nuts have "loctite" on them and the shaft will rotate inside the ball joint instead of the nut making removal harder. Most links will have a flat (Yellow arrow) section to allow a spanner to be inserted to hold the shaft in place or alternatively a socket for a hex key (Green arrow). However some after-market links have nothing in which case a set of mole grips may be used to hold the shaft as you'll be throwing away the old units anyway.
Once the old unit is removed, clean up the surface and install the new link. The new nuts should be tightened to 100nm (74Ib ft) and again the shaft should be held to achieve this. If you removed the wheel, reinstall and torque up correctly.
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