Evening all
went to pick wife and kid up, got back in car, turned on, nothing., all lights on, nowt from the starter. no clicks or anything.,
Noticed the light on the dash was not on, its only on autos, like a little foot sign, telling you to press the brake pedal to enable starting., Thought it was inhibitor , check all fuses ok.
stumped. callled rac 1st time in 10 years |!
The inhibitor solenoid was fine as it released the gear lever when th ignition was on.
15 mins he was here. put his diagnostic on, came up with gearbox control module,.
He reckoned they get corroded etc , towed me home only 5 mins luckily was only at train station.
I put me vcds on and the pics attached are the result.
from the engine controller i got 18034 power train data bus
next the auto box unit would not answer, very odd as it has always answered before.
i moved on to abs and up popped the fault the rac man had 01315 no signal communication
i don't know why this was in the abs controller.
so there you are the 3 screen shots are what i found so would be most gratefull for help as its sat outside now going no where !
The rac chap said he thought that a common thing was corrosion between the connections etc but said i needed to take out battery to get down there.
so anyone know where the gearbox module is and looks like, theres a hell of a lot of cables and harnesses in the area so i am clueless at the moment,
Module looks like this (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-GALAXY-MK2-1-9-TDI-AUTO-GEARBOX-CONTROL-UNIT-09B-927-750-/291591315338?hash=item43e4325f8a:g:haAAAOSwT5tWINIq) or parts diagram number 26 here (http://eucatparts.com/?action=cat_ford_part&s_id_part=24899&s_id_model=99&s_code_image=G002157005). Definitely worth checking the wiring before condemning the module though. If one module fails or there's a wiring fault it may throw up fault codes in the other modules as well, as they communicate with eachother (or should in normal operation if functioning correctly)- that first fault code is telling you the powertrain (engine) control module isn't able to communicate with the transmission control module.
Hi there
Thanks for that, at least now i know what the engine one means, the RAC chap said the same that the modules all chat to each other and one can show a fault that wouldn't seem connected,
can anyone tell me where its positioned when stood looking at front of engine bay with battery on my right ?
the odd thing here is the light on the dash that tells you to press the brake is off all the time so it must be this that needs fixing.
Any more auto box experts your input is glady appreciated
The light on the cluster you're referring to is likely controlled from the transmission control module so if the module is kaput or there's a wiring problem then that's probably why it's not working. I would suggest checking that the brake pedal switch is working properly but being that you've got fault codes pointing to the module itself, then it's probably not to do with a dodgy brake switch in the pedal box.
wonderd that , he did check the pedal switch first, wonder why though the auto box module on won't answer the vcds , unless its all the wiring kaput or the unit, his machine scanner said gearbox control module permanent
I would be fairly confident that it is wiring corrosion as that is reasonable common. I've seen it a number of times and it tends to effect the large ground pin first which would cause the module to be entirely unresponsive (hence no light on dash and no coms with VCDS).
The auto,s also have a pressure switch in the brake line.
Follow the brake pipe that runs under the floor to the rear brakes.
This switch is only fitted on auto,s
stumped at moment its lashing down and now I'm a kerbside mechanic i have to wait.
is it a case of hopefully unplugging things cleaning up and hoping for the best , also where is this module located, hope its not an under tray off job as i can't even get it on the ramps.
Chris, whats this brake line switch do then ?
right no rain, remove battery gearbox module very handily placed on the right hand bulkhead next to it.
unplug, unit, no signs of rust. from the loom that goes into the unit there is a brown wire that goes to the underside of the battery tray
ahah i thought, the rotten wire, i cut it and made a new earth, reassembled, hoped it was my lucky day andââ,¬Â¦Ã¢â,¬Â¦Ã¢â,¬Â¦Ã¢â,¬Â¦Ã¢â,¬Â¦Ã¢â,¬Â¦Ã¢â,¬Â¦Ã¢â,¬Â¦Ã¢â,¬Â¦Ã¢â,¬Â¦.
/.,../';'.. XXXXX NOWT as we say up north, Bugger all.
not a lot else to do but source a module
Does anyone know if they are swop overs with the same part number, hope they are not coded and need the ford garage ?
Any other ideas before i condemn it ?
Quote from: marinabrid on October 31, 2015, 03:09:18 PM
right no rain, remove battery gearbox module very handily placed on the right hand bulkhead next to it.
unplug, unit, no signs of rust. from the loom that goes into the unit there is a brown wire that goes to the underside of the battery tray
ahah i thought, the rotten wire, i cut it and made a new earth, reassembled, hoped it was my lucky day andââ,¬Â¦Ã¢â,¬Â¦Ã¢â,¬Â¦Ã¢â,¬Â¦Ã¢â,¬Â¦Ã¢â,¬Â¦Ã¢â,¬Â¦Ã¢â,¬Â¦Ã¢â,¬Â¦Ã¢â,¬Â¦.
/.,../';'.. XXXXX NOWT as we say up north, Bugger all.
not a lot else to do but source a module
Does anyone know if they are swop overs with the same part number, hope they are not coded and need the ford garage ?
Any other ideas before i condemn it ?
just wondering now if anyone knows, could the unit be earthed somewhere else i can't find. very little info on the web and of course my luck all the Used ones on ebay are the wrong part number, mine had an N at the end of the number
Quote from: marinabrid on October 30, 2015, 01:07:32 PM
stumped at moment its lashing down and now I'm a kerbside mechanic i have to wait.
is it a case of hopefully unplugging things cleaning up and hoping for the best , also where is this module located, hope its not an under tray off job as i can't even get it on the ramps.
Chris, whats this brake line switch do then ?
Brake pressure switch senses foot brake operation
If the light is not operating then normally this would mean the brakes are applied, if the gearbox thinks the brakes are applied the box goes into neutral as it would do when waiting in drive with the footbrake applied.
Hi
Thanks for that Chris, if the brake sensor had failed wouldn't this throw a code as normal . all i got is no footbrake light on the dash, but the RAC man did the scan with his unit and it said gearbox module permanent.
am i right in thinking that its the outer connections that may rust, it won't be the inside of the unit will it ?
after hours of searching on line nothing, same part numbers but last letter different, according to info i found every single number has to match on a replacement module
the new price is a bit scary at Ã,£450 ! maybe even dearer from a dealer and cord knows what ford would charge, anyoneany expertise in this field regarding part numbers compatible ?
found a place that says can repair the modules, anyone ever heard of this being done ?
http://www.sinspeed.co.uk/category/transmission-control-modules/
found a used online in Denmark but 1 set of digits wrong.
Have you had a look at this pressure switch? not saying it is the problem but worth a look because it is exposed to the weather and could have suffered corroded or broken wiring problem[attachimg=1]
will have a look Sunday, where is it located under the car , o/s or n/s front or rear area ,
are your thoughts that this failing would make the gearbox appear faulty ?
Toward the rear by n/s chassis member, you can see the alloy heater coolant pipes in the bottom of the pic.
I can't say for sure this is at fault but it's worth checking out.
well stumped now, Has anyone an idea how to test the ecu pins for live or earth as Mirez suggests ?
Also all seem to point to no earth or live as there is no communication to vcds from the gearbox ecu
i wouldn't have a clue how to trace the wires from the ecu to anywhere else where it may be earthed ? any ideas chaps ?
The only ecu's on ebay are Ã,£80 ish but don't have the same last letter on them but Mirez thinks thats not critical
So car outside going nowhere., suppose i could send the ecu off to a tester as online and see if it is faulty, if its not, what then.
I can't help with wiring diagrams but just because VCDS and the other modules in the vehicle can't communicate with the transmission module, it doesn't necessarily mean there's no earth or live feed to the module- the other modules and VCDS communicate with the transmission control module via a separate signal wire, and if this was damaged it could be responsible for some of the issues you've got.
thanks for that.
I'm stuck no till morning when i can call a ecu tester i found online
need to know if there is or not a fault in the ecu., judging by the amount for sale and issues online it does seem a common problem, but i don't know how to test it. or anything more than basic wiring.
found an ecu with matching numbers if it needs coding am i able to do this with the free version vcds i have or do i need to upgrade ? also can someone talk me through how to recode ?
thanks
Quote from: marinabrid on November 02, 2015, 10:27:24 AM
found an ecu with matching numbers if it needs coding am i able to do this with the free version vcds i have or do i need to upgrade ? also can someone talk me through how to recode ?
thanks
what a sod, thought i would check wiring looms etc, as can't see anything , took off battery , looks like tray is part of mount so didn't move, thought i would remove n/s headlight to see behind removed the 4 bolts it just wouldn't come out. any ideas ? unsecured grill top 4 screws that would not come off either is it attached to bumper at all ?
had a final play around today., tested the mulitplug and got 12v at pin 22 inside the plug all wires in great shape.
Chris, could not find this brake line switch anywhere. is it fitted to all auto,or maybe just diesels ? any more idea where to find it, only place i couldn't see was where the pips bend inwards 90' and go under the exhaust heat shield., traced pipes right from front along with rear air con pipes nothing to be seen in way of a pressure switch
so have sent ecu for testing cord help if it comes back ok and still won't start !
Hi Martin
TIS says located in engine compartment, Elasawin says switch is located on front wall in brake line to front right brake caliper the wire colours are grey/green and goes to pin 17 on the transmission ECU and brown goes to earth
All I know is my switch is under the car as I showed you
waiting for ecu to come back from testing, i found this article for any auto box owners, looks like the gearbox should always be able to get you home in a failure of any part,
where do i start looking if mine comes back ok and repaired and still won't start !
http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_232.pdf
must admit after reading this i think i may have a wiring fault somewhere.
Could we possibly being side tracked here with all this talk of faulty ECU's? going back to your first post engine not starting, think we need to start with the basics and work back.
1. Testing supplies/earth to starter, bridge solenoid to test operation of starter.
2. Battery fuse box, check for signs of melting giving power supply problems.
Hi Chris
Have checked what i can inc, fuses fuse box near battery is fairly new and clean, no deterioration
what puzzles me with it auto., you maybe able to help
Why am i able to turn on ignition and move gear selector , i shouldn't be able to until the brake pedal is pressed but i can , i thought it was also locked with a solenoid under the selector . have checked also with vcds again.
just get same code from abs section and can bus section, no communication,
RAC chap said the unit was dud so thats why i decided to send it off for testing at least to eliminate it.
i may have jumped the gun and it come back the same so will have to look elsewhere but elsewhere is now causing me the grief ? i am fairly competent with a multi meter as long as i know how and what to test. Its odd that it just stopped with no warning at all.
Martin
Recheck your fuse number 5
Have just been out to my car when I remove this fuse the pedal light goes out, I cannot start the engine, with ignition off I cannot press the button on the gearlever but with ignition on I can press button and move the lever without pressing brake pedal.
Fuse 5 also powers parking sensors, outside rear view mirrors, and reversing lights.
Any of these may have popped the fuse.
Morning Chris
well if this works you will be getting something in the post ,, however...
the fuse no. 5 had blown, but my mirrors still worked, maybe they on a different fuse on this particular model ,, but the rev lights and dash light are not on this i hope is due to the ecu being missing ? can't check parking sensors as engine not running.
it should be back in next day or two so am still in limbo
I checked the fuses with a fuse test that bridges the pins while in situ and it did light up, unless me poking around since has blown it, will have to wait and see. but you will be the 1st to know ! fingers crossed
Also just been out and connected VCDS and got the 18034 code powertrain data bus missing signal.
yup thats what i got in the engine ecu. did you try and interrogate the gearbox ecu with the fuse out ?
if this cures it and there nothing wrong with gearbox ecu then the fact that one fuse can leave you stranded is not good .
No the scan was done after the fuse was replaced
Just gone and done an auto scan results below
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
this is now mad
wife says perhaps i should know about fuses, i take her to car, open boot and get new fuses out
i replaced the no.5 from the pack this morning
i showed her the tester and put it on no. 5 no lights pull it out and its been made faulty. the wire connection inside the fuse itself is all a funny shape not like the others in the pack
so i put a new one in that i test before i put it, no footbrake light but sod me THE CAR STARTS !
no gearbox ecu on but it started . so now awaiting the ecu to be sent back.
I think an Oops is in order [CRY] tell her to be gentle with you cya
think i mis quoted there,
i meant she said she should know about fuses in case it happened when she was alone
thats when i took her outside , i was trying to teach her and made myself look the plonker rodney !
so if i hadn't taken her out, i would never have thought to look at a fuse that i thought was new but was a dud. she be wanting presents now, i spoke to the ecu tester its on the machine for 24 hours he says be wed or thus ! i don't have much confidence in them so of course am regretting sending it., hope it just cost me the Ã,£50 test fee to get it back and they don't tell me its faulty.
so, if its all ok as the man who suggested it and the wife will def get something from me !
I once got a kit of fuses from ebay. Used one when rear wiper fuse blew on wifes Rover 200. Some weeks later she rang me to say smoke was coming form under dash. I told her to leave car in supermarket car park and I would look at it after work. A bit later she range to say she got to her counsellors but when she came out it wouldn't start. @&$€!! Told her to call out RAC and if they couldn't get it going to have them tow it home. They couldn't start it and blew several engine bay fuses and told her ECU was goosed.
I got home and noticed the molten plastic hanging out from the fuse box by drivers knww (which the RAC hadn't) took cover off and fusebox had a lot of melting, as was wiring loom to rear hatch and in rear hatch. unplugged loom, replaced fuses and it started. The ebay fuse hadn't blown even though the coloured plastic had completely melted.
Took me a day off work and in the scrapyard to replace looms and fusebox and we ran it for another 9months before head gasket went and we scrapped it.
Root cause- failed wires shorting together in rear hatch gaiter - not just a galaxy issue.
SUCCESS FAILURE SUCCESS FAILURE
taken best part of 2 weeks to get ecu back, i don't recommend this firm Sinspeed greenwich London if you in hurry
3 to 5 days is what they tell you.
anyway, after Chris advice to check fuse 5, i did this and car started
got Ecu back today, fitted all good , brake dash light on, car starts, SUCCESS,
ran thru the gears with lever car moved forward,. engaged reverse., ABS EPS lights come on flashing
what the ?*&^ ! turned off, restarted, all ok, few mins on tick over, ABS EPS lights on , no faults though on vcds
turned off, back on reverersed up a few yards m turned off engine, came back to car, same as original problem. all lights on barring footbrake gear release, no start.
fuse 5 blown again
Now , its the reversing lights me thinks, checked bulbs all ok,
so gents i now think it must be the wiring in the tailgate that i have never checked
Hope this is what the gurus think ? or any other ideas welcome.
course its now raining like a monsoon and forcast all day, so will have to wait,
from standing at back of car i rubber gaiters on the left and right, so i presume i will have to check both,
Sounds very much like it. :(
The wiring is in the right gaiter as you look at the back of the car, the left only carries the screenwash pipe.
ok Mirez
Thanks for the quick reply
Will have a look later.
Ver bad design though, you go out, reverse car , pop fuse and your stranded in an automatic !
More woes
checked tailgate wiring, nothing, all in tip top shape even after 10 years of use
could it possibly be further inside where it exits the body ? i pulled the gaiter up and down, near the top is some that is wrapped in the back insulation, i carefully cut that to expose more perfect wires.
removed rev bulbs and connectors one at a time, still blew fuse no.5 , removed gear surround and unplugged check locking solenoid and lighting panel, still blows fuse.
so again no am stumped
where to look next, could it be reversing light switch somewhere on the gearbox ?
got to be something simple hopefully, does the wiring to the tailgate pass through the doors at all,
did the front doors last years, but didn't check the rear drivers side door which is the same side the tailgate wiring is on.
any suggestions gratefully accepted.
strange no other faults,. suppose i could drive around with spare fuses and change it every time i reverse !!!
I'm no expert on the auto's but have you checked the auto transmission wiring loom for corrosion and damage at the gearbox end? If the module checks out and you're positive the tailgate wiring isn't to blame it could be worth a deeper look at the transmission wiring loom.
P.S, I'm not sure if there's a multiplug inside the body (behind the offside rear quarter trim or pillar trim above it maybe) which will allow you to disconnect the tailgate wiring loom from the body wiring loom but if there is then I would suggest disconnecting it to allow you to feed the wiring out of the body so you can inspect it more thoroughly- I would think the damage most likely to occur just inside of where the loom passes into the body from the tailgate, where most of the flexing occurs.
Hi Martin
Following on from what Paul was saying there are two or three plugs on the right side rear quarter panel to disconnect the tailgate, cant remember if you can see them to disconnect without removing the trim panel, another important thing to check is towbar wiring (that's if you have a towbar.
The auto doesn't make it easy to check this circuit so checking this rear loom as its prone to causing all sorts of problems and if you have a towbar double trouble hopefully its one of these that's causing it.
Also have a look around the parking sensor module under the passenger seat, this is easy to disconnect make sure it's dry under there and not swimming in water.
thanks chaps
will have a look when the rain stops !
Will remove look for connectors behind trim, on the loom its impossible to se anything without removing battery tray, but how easy this is i don't know, i thought Mirez said it wasn't bolted to the gearbox or mount, but others seem to say it it, if i remove the 4 bolts is anything gonna drop ? as I'm a roadside worker now i can't jack up under it,.
well after a day of removing trim to check wiring in tailgate area nothing everything looks new
no multiplugs to see to unclip seems one long lead from tailgate to somewhere far inside.
anyway
moved on., popping fuses as tested this and that, then put on vcds on the auto box controller got this which has never appeared before.
01236 shift selector locking solenoid (N110) 31-10 open or short to ground intermittent
i wonder if thats it,
anyway replaced fuse. unplugged the solenoid ran through gears , could not get fault to re appear which i thought odd
anyway unplugged and moved lever to R but fuse popped again should this happen if its shorting out ?
if theres no wires to it as its unplugged how can it pop a fuse ?
now bad light has stopped play ! over to you experts ?
Quote from: marinabrid on November 15, 2015, 04:48:03 PM
well after a day of removing trim to check wiring in tailgate area nothing everything looks new
no multiplugs to see to unclip seems one long lead from tailgate to somewhere far inside.
anyway
moved on., popping fuses as tested this and that, then put on vcds on the auto box controller got this which has never appeared before.
01236 shift selector locking solenoid (N110) 31-10 open or short to ground intermittent
i wonder if thats it,
anyway replaced fuse. unplugged the solenoid ran through gears , could not get fault to re appear which i thought odd
anyway unplugged and moved lever to R but fuse popped again should this happen if its shorting out ?
if theres no wires to it as its unplugged how can it pop a fuse ?
now bad light has stopped play ! over to you experts ?
checked the parking sensor box under seat all dry. unplugged to test still blew fuse so put back.
other thing is there maybe a relay in the fusebox that could be the problem ?
can anyone tell if the battery tray is connected to the gearbox mount , i need to access this wiring around the gearbox and don't want it crashing down ! getting a bit desperate now. i notice there are som emulti plug connectors when i look under the car at the bottom of the gearbox towards the back of it at the rear end, anyone know what these are for ?
I do believe the Mk 1 transmission needs to be supported when removing battery tray but Mk2 you can remove without a problem (perhaps someone else can confirm)
Have you ruled out the wiring at the rear end by disconnecting behind quarter panel, do you have a towbar?
iirc the reversing light switch is part of the range selector on the gearbox not a simple switch like on manual boxes
Hi Chris
No tow bar fitted
i removed the rear storage panel and traced the cable to the tailate but i couldn't see a joining plug on there do i need to remove the whole thing to get to it,
i see there no rev switch on gearbox just some multi function switch i can see under the car at the bottom on the gear box a couple of connectors wonder if they are the multi switch can just about reach so will unclip
can't see the ecu to gearbox harness till i get either headlamp out or battery tray off
Quote from: marinabrid on November 16, 2015, 12:45:41 PM
Hi Chris
No tow bar fitted
i removed the rear storage panel and traced the cable to the tailate but i couldn't see a joining plug on there do i need to remove the whole thing to get to it,
i see there no rev switch on gearbox just some multi function switch i can see under the car at the bottom on the gear box a couple of connectors wonder if they are the multi switch can just about reach so will unclip
can't see the ecu to gearbox harness till i get either headlamp out or battery tray off
Would the fact that i unclipped the lamp bulb connectors and it still blew prove or disprove anything ?
No, if the wiring short is in the wiring 'upstream' so to speak of the lamp connectors then disconnecting them will not make a difference to shorted wiring and any effects it produces.
I've never located the tailgate-body wiring loom connectors myself, what did you remove to try to locate them? The glovebox at the top of the offside rear quarter trim? If that didn't help the only other thing you can try short of removing the whole trim is to go in from the cover that accesses the jack and tools.
hi
just been back in boot, found 3 little multi plugs under the drivers side rear lamp unit, unclipped but fuse blew, i can see right through the storage panel and follow the loom , you can also remove the rear load cover bracket and see down the hole there, no connectors in the loom at all unless its further over the wheel arch area will try that now.
Only if the fault was in the lamp unit or bulb.
Below is a pic taken through the pull off panel.
The black connector has the feed to reverse light if you disconnect here that will isolate the tailgate wiring
[attachimg=1]
Ah you found them.
So having proved it's not the tail gate, there's no other connector between the rear quarter and the dash.
hi
moved on to dash, checked fusebox etc nothing
put vcds on and again got 01236 gear lever locking solenoid open or short intermittent. though it blows every time R is engaged
could this be the actual solenoid at fault even though it works i can hear it click when the ignition on and i press the button on the gear knob , then as soon as it hits R it blows the fuse
i unplugged the lock solenoid but still blows. the wires to it seems to be routed to somewhere i can't see, so could it still blow with this unplugged as insanity said with the rev lights ?
need then to find where this supply wire comes from but looks like it needs the console out and maybe the gear lever assembly ? any ideas on this Chris. theres a large plastic cover under the gear lever, hiding a screw to remove the console, can't see how this lifts up to remove.
Relay 175 is the auto box relay and is in the circuit to the lights but not sure if this relay has another purpose or only the lights.
dismantled the console area and found the solenoid, can't see though how to get it out or how to test it . any ideas, the wiring to it is 2 wires when i turn ig on there is 9v to the supply wire. this seems low but i don't know ,,, still blows the fuse though when i engage reverse. so does this mean the solenoid could be faulty or the wire to it !
Are you thinking maybe the relay 175 could be dodgy ?
I'm getting short of ideas now.
Quote from: marinabrid on November 16, 2015, 03:34:19 PM
dismantled the console area and found the solenoid, can't see though how to get it out or how to test it . any ideas, the wiring to it is 2 wires when i turn ig on there is 9v to the supply wire. this seems low but i don't know ,,, still blows the fuse though when i engage reverse. so does this mean the solenoid could be faulty or the wire to it !
Are you thinking maybe the relay 175 could be dodgy ?
I'm getting short of ideas now.
the supply wire to the solenoid goes under the carpet somewhere, any ideas how to test this or find out where it goes, theres nothing in the wiring diagrams in the haynes book. can't fathom why the fault is intermittent when it blows the fuse every time
Quote from: marinabrid on November 16, 2015, 04:20:14 PM
the supply wire to the solenoid goes under the carpet somewhere, any ideas how to test this or find out where it goes, theres nothing in the wiring diagrams in the haynes book. can't fathom why the fault is intermittent when it blows the fuse every time
now got a flat battery ! car only been stood 2 weeks, started it a bout 3 times while i been testing it, wonder if something is draining it related to this problem ?
Quote from: marinabrid on November 16, 2015, 04:52:31 PM
now got a flat battery ! car only been stood 2 weeks, started it a bout 3 times while i been testing it, wonder if something is draining it related to this problem ?
would pulling the 175 relay prove something ?
The haynes only shows manual box the auto is far more complicated, there are two seperate switches in relay 175 , one is for the starter circuit the other for reverse lights.
It may help to remove relay, I don't think the solenoid on the gear lever is an issue as this is controlled by the footbrake and lever button.
Would it help you if I sent you the TIS diagram
hi chris
Hope we onto something , i have removed the 175 relay and all lights on dash work, put into R no repeat no fuse blow. what does this mean then ? still a supply wire to the relay problem or a faulty relay ?
anything is welcome ! any diagrams, i am trying to test the wire from ecu to the solenoid switch as this is the logged fault. what else can i go on !
when no key in and blown fuse and continuity test on the supply at the solenoid , unplugged from solenoid, i am getting a continuos noise from the meter and a reading of 012 which fluctuates a little,
does this indicate something ? when i turn ignition on the reading goes to just a 1 on the meter and the noise stops.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
good luck with this
thanks
so this is the wiring from the ecu to everywhere else is it chris ?
i presume that pulling the relay simply eliminates the wiring from the solenoid to the relay does it ? or is there a way to test the solenoid
everything from fuse 5
I wouldn't say the relay is associated directly with solenoid, you can now check continuity with solenoid and ecu and gearbox if you need too.
must say I'm getting a bit baffled not an expert in wiring so finding it hard to follow
wonder if its time to find a an auto electrician
The fact that it seems to be happening only when you select reverse gear could indicate a fault with something like the gearbox range sensor (which is a moving part), it's not necessarily a wiring fault. For the same reason if it was a fault with the solenoid I would expect it to occur not just when you select reverse, although electrical faults can cause all sorts of crazy symptoms. Looking at the wiring diagrams it does look plausible that an internal short in the relay could cause the fuse to blow when selecting reverse gear, though that needs confirming by somebody more specialised in electrics than I.
i took a chance and found a spare 175 relay on ebay, loads of them with same part number only Ã,£4 so its worth a try, may turn up tomorrow.
i am uses to seeing haynes manual type wiring not this type
sadly new relay made no diff but only a few quid gamble.
Chris or any sparks out there, on the helpful diagram sent it shows all the pins on the relay 175 there is one pin no. 7 in the middle of the diagram that just shows a short black dotted line and G1
would anyone know what that is ?
at least now have colours of wires to trace to rear,and where ever else.
Ground or earth
thanks Chris
found me a helpful mobile sparky but lives a long way off but he gonna help over phone for a few quid
got me a power probe and short circuit finder for Ã,£30 so hopefully may find it soon with his help still cheaper than Ã,£50 an hour at local garage, no doubt spending some of the hours scratching their head and ball supping tea !
said something about remove rev bulb and put power probe onto positive and send current toward the fuse to see if it blows. not sure yet what that will prove !
he seems to think its in the wiring to the rev lights, we shall see.
I suspect he's right.
If you have found the connector for the reversing lights in the rear quarter panel I would
(i) Disconnect that connector
(ii) Remove Relay R175
(iii) Check the resistance to ground with a multimeter of the switched live to the lights (looks like it is either BK/RD [Black/Red] or BK/BU [Black/Blue?]) on the cabin side (ie not the hatch wiring).
If this is shorted/low resistance then the problem is in the wiring from the relay to the connector as this should be completely isolated from ground. You then need to trace this wire from the relay to the rear connector (or run another one and cut out the "Bad bit").
You could also check the hatch harness the same way by probing on the other connector with the bulbs removed, though it doesn't sound as though this is your problem as I believe you said it still blew fuses with the connectors disconnected.
oh i see am getting the idea of current now,, not just in buns !
yours is a simpler way than cutting the wire, do you know which of the 3 block conns in the rear storage panel area is the rev lights ?
so to be clear, as I'm not a multi meter expert, i put it on ohms and put the black probe to earth and red to the blue black wire in the block connector and read the meter, so how do i tell with the meter it is shorted or low resistance is this when it beeps what readings should be on the meter if shorted,
SUCCESS SUCCESS SUCCESS MANY MANY THANKS FOR ALL HELP
finally cracked it just about
got a power probe and started at back every time probed 12v pos to reverse light indicated short,, had to work up the car got to a foot from fuse box.
probed the rear conns and lights worked so cut loom half way and probed same wire still worked.,
got up to front , cut wire from rear of relay output bk bl wire about 6 inches, probed again and short again.
very big loom of wires under dash so isolated the dodgy bit and put a new piece in. job done
HOWEVER, don't know now but the rear parking sensors do not come on when R is selected. they do if i press the button on dash, also while the back is beeping the front is as well
any ideas on this one ! could this be all related.
other thing . i took for test drive all ok no probs at all. when came back left ig on to test with vcds, after a few mins or so the ABS light starts to flash. joined then by the EPS light. then heard a relay click and they went off. seems if left on a while they do this. is it i test mode or something
no faults in ABS module with vcds , no faults anywhere .
any ideas to finally put this to bed.
The parking sensors obviously take a signal from the reverse switch as this usually activates them automatically. It may even come from the reverse light signal. (Possibly the S68 on the second circuit diagram). It's possible you have isolated the feed to this now and the short was in the wire to the parking sensors module, or in the module itself. VCDS Lite/VAG-COM will report any faults with the "Park Assist". It also reports distance for each sensor (down to about 10cm if I recall) and more than likely the status of the Reverse switch/lights and the dash button.
Just looked on TIS and it appears the Park Control module (don't you love the way VCDS/TIS use different names for the same thing) may also be fed from Fuse 5 and is supposedly located behind the rear luggage compartment trim on the Drivers side.
Hi
I did unplug the 3 plugs on the module under the seat but as before this seems to prove nothing if the short is active on its way to the module
i wonder if i could apply a new splice from the new wire i put in if that would work but where would i connect it to ?
Chris., the marvellous chap, do you have other wiring plans also for the parking module sensors.
not a big problem but useful for the wife.
i have retested and the fronts are ok but the rears are on off,a long tone but no beeping as it gets close to object behind so something amiss
there are no faults logged in vcds for park assist
Here. (https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/galaxy-parking-sensor-faults-pdc-systen-(mk2)/) (at the bottom of the article)
Like Silverbeast says, by bypassing some of the wiring you may have inadvertently removed/ cut off a feed or signal wire relating to the parking sensor system. Either that or there's still a short present somewhere which isn't bad enough to keep blowing the fuse but is now causing trouble with the parking sensors.
thanks for that
after 3 weeks of no car a parking sensor isn't much of a problem considering it hardly gets used.
will have a potter around
where i cut and spliced the wire in, if that send a signal it must be easy enough to splice a new piece in to feed the rev module , or isn't it that easy.
from looking at diagrams for 175 relay from Chris and the parking sensor one i see there is a wire from s68 on the bk bl wire after it leaves the relay power supply to rev lights and is listed as bk rd this then seems to re appear at the module block so will try and connect there and see what happens. fingers crossed
does this sound like the right thing to try ?
This is the auto one showing the parking module[attachimg=1]
JOB DONE
Many thanks to all,, spliced in new wire, isolated original feed..
without this forum i would have spent no doubt hundreds at a garage, i got me some new tools and skills
one fully functioning car again
mot monday fingers crossed.
Well done mate [GJ] clapping and jumping
woohoo Result!
yes, its a good feeling when something goes right , maybe i shall turn my hand to brain surgery ââ,¬Â¦.. ??? any volunteers ?