[attach=1]
As you can see the common cheap crimp on Alternator Cable failure has occurred! (Another one for the
Does anyone know the part numbers and prices for the Alternator Cable and Battery Junction Box from
(i) Ford
(ii) VW
(iii) Seat
Thanks,
Richard
There are different boxes depending on exact model so you would be best to ring around for the exact part numbers. IIRC this is one of those surprisingly cheap parts at about Ã,£40 but you MUST replace the alternator cable at the same time else your new box will just do the same.
May be worth soldering the new crimp if not already done, not sure if the new cable/crimp is soldered now when new.
I caught mine in the early stages of the meltdown about six years ago and managed to save the box and the cable, but it was nowhere near as bad as yours.
Already ordered this one from ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130706617552?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130706617552?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649) Seller said there was no sign of burning.
I intend to get some flexible welding cable, crimpers, butt crimps and crimp terminals too. The next cable down (110Amp) was also very hot, but not sure if it's conducted heat, so may need to repair it.
I will solder if copper seems clean enough. What's the best way to do this, I'm not sure my iron would be man enough for the job? I may need to use the one on my blowtorch. Thinking abut it I've still got the hot air gun from work I use to fix PS3's so that might do it.
I'll probably measure the resistance first and compare it with the knackered one.
Possibly one to add the MKII Common Problems?
Just got my VAG-Tacho lead and enabled "Miles To Empty" :D - Thanks Mirez
mine was same as yours, used to smell burning plastic ???? as you started the car and reversed down drive onto main road...smell was coming in through fresh air vents. i got new one from peoples ford in liverpool for less than Ã,£30, and used emery paper to clean the main connector on the lead before refitting it---------i check it every time i check the levels on the car just to be safe !!!
Quote from: SilverBeast on June 19, 2012, 09:29:18 PM
Already ordered this one from ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130706617552?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130706617552?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649) Seller said there was no sign of burning.
I intend to get some flexible welding cable, crimpers, butt crimps and crimp terminals too. The next cable down (110Amp) was also very hot, but not sure if it's conducted heat, so may need to repair it.
I will solder if copper seems clean enough. What's the best way to do this, I'm not sure my iron would be man enough for the job? I may need to use the one on my blowtorch. Thinking abut it I've still got the hot air gun from work I use to fix PS3's so that might do it.
I'll probably measure the resistance first and compare it with the knackered one.
Possibly one to add the MKII Common Problems?
Just got my VAG-Tacho lead and enabled "Miles To Empty" :D - Thanks Mirez
Yep blow torch with a small nozzle, and cored solder and a small dab of flux.
I also soldered the one next to your melted one as mine was also getting warm
Best remove the battery just in case.
If you want to do a right up (how to) with a few photo's we'll add it to the reference library. :)
We certainly will :)
When I did the V6 it was the second cable (supply to cabin) that had gone on that one - stripping it back the cores were corroded about 30cm before I found good metal. Given the location at that point I butt crimped in the new cable rather then solder and it was absolutely fine. Interestingly it was getting warm just on idle with very little electrical load on - when everything was turned on it was smoking within about 10 seconds! ::)
As above I'll check the second cable when I have fixed the first etc
I already intended to take pictures and post a HowTo when I do this - but then again I still haven't written one for replacing the bushes on the Run-On Pump and I did that ......checks Photo dates..... over a year ago :-[
Oops! Now THAT would be handy for me... get on with it ;)
....I could send you the pictures! 8)
Feel free :)
admin at fordmpv.com
On their way. email is 2MB, hope it doesn't bounce!
Done!
https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/reference-library/galaxy-replacing-the-run-on-pump-brushes-(tdi-and-v6)/
Let me know if anything needs changing / modifying!
great pics silver beast [coolpic] [GJ],and very smart using cotton to hold the brushes back [THANKS].simple things eh?
imo better then drilling two 2 mm holes and using a nails/drill bits to hold them back.
when i done mine i robbed the brushes from an old rotary tool and they were virtually the size required.
The ones for my angle grinder were too small! so I ordered 10 off ebay! Am I optimistic that it should last for another 5x80k miles? ;)
Well Battery Junction Box replaced, along with alternator cable. Soldered both the Alternator and Cabin Feed wires in the hopes that I never have to do it again! Wires are cool after my journey to work now, instead of uncomfortable to hold!
[attach=1]
The fuse box must have been from a different model as it had 5 high current wires (mine has 4) and different fuseable links fitted so I swapped the 60A ones from my old BJB. Fortunately my blowtorch has a soldering attachment to fit to the small burner - pictures to follow!
Air-con man is here next Monday so next weekend I (hopefully!) will be moving the radiator grille opening panel forward to allow access to the pipe the Mobile Air-con specialist needs to repair on Monday.
Nice one [GJ] years ago those joints would be soldered at manufacture.
Not sure which pipe your having repaired but you may need to remove the bumper complete with grill for better access.
Quote from: chrispb on June 25, 2012, 09:54:57 PM
Not sure which pipe your having repaired but you may need to remove the bumper complete with grill for better access.
... and then some. It 's the high pressure pipe under the drivers headlight.
[attach=2]
It goes from the joint above the high pressure switch (behind the drivers fog light under the bumper cover) along the wing and across the firewall/bulkhead at the back of the engine bay to a junction behind the battery (sort of).
The break is under the plastic panel across the whole front of the car that the bonnet latch and all the radiators and headlights mount to. TIS seems to call it the Radiator Grille Opening Panel (in the Engine Removal Section). It is sort of under where the drivers headlight connector is in this photo.
[attach=1]
It's on the thin pipe here where it goes into the body mounting bracket.
[attach=3]
I think it got moved when the radiator was replaced last year. The pipe holding the High Pressure Switch should be in the black plastic clip just behind it in the first picture.
Hi guys. I was wondering if you or anybody can help please.
My fuse box melted at the junction with the cable from the alternator.
New fuse box ordered Ã,£40 approx. Old one came off quite easy.
New fuse ordered Ã,£2 approx. May not need it but who knows?
Cable.....It's a single cable in conduit. I got the cable out (cut off one of the connectors) no part number. The white paper tag on the conduit has disintegrated into an oily mess. The garage (main dealer) can't locate the part. They can find a piece of loom with other cables coming out of it around Ã,£40. Does anyone know the part number or an alternative solution please?
Thanks in advance.
Blimey he didn't try very hard - its on the very next page lol
There are many variants though, depending on engine bhp & spec. The most common number is FINIS: 1366002 @ Ã,£82.41
To be fair though, it would probably be cheaper A) from VW and B) from an auto electrician. The cable that needs changing isn't anything special and has standard connectors so an auto electrician should be able to knock one up for about half that price.
You are a hero - many thanks
I replaced my Alternator Cable and Aux Fusebox in Jan 2012 on my 2005 Galaxy and have now spotted that the cabin feed wire is over heating. I may be able to save the fusebox but it is damaged.
The moral of the story is to deal with both cables at once. I will be visiting a local auto-electrician as soon as they re-open in the new year to get the cable jointed and BOTH cables soldered.
I'm new to this forum, and so it may be that somewhere all my questions have been answered and I've just not managed to find those answers, but i have searched for the alternator cable issue and found this topic.
So, my Galaxy, 54 plate 1.9TDi Zetec has this overheating problem, and I've already ordered a new fuse box, but the cable to the alternator is of concern, obviously simply replacing the original isn't going to help eliminate it (Ford seemed to want provide a new harness - not totally sure they understood what i wanted, which worried me, given that this is so common it must surely be known to their staff!) so I was considering the 'upgrade' to the 150 amp flexible welding cable. But before I dismantle anything, I want to have the replacements ready, so can anyone tell me
a) What length of 150 amp welding cable I would need
b) If there is any specific code for the above or do I just go to a supplier and ask for x feet of 150 amp welding cable.
c) When I go to purchase the terminals that go on the end of the cable, what am I looking for?
Finally , does anyone know of any videos on youtube that may give me some idea of what is involved in this job?
Thank in anticipation.
John
Hello John welcome5
Yes this is common problem and obtaining a new or good secondhand fuse box is essential if you have suffered the melt down.
The problem is caused by a high resistance between the crimp terminal and the cable.
In my case this was easily rectified by soldering the crimp terminal to the cable, even if you buy a new cable I would advise soldering the terminals to avoid future problems.
I have the VW Part number for the cable
Pre May 2001 7M3971349BA
Post May 2001 7M3971349CA
Below is a link to the repair operation in our library.
https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/battery-junction-boxauxiliary-fuse-box-repair/
Thanks Chris,
I've ordered a new fuse box, but as I said the Ford Man was telling me I required a new wiring harness/loom and I was certain that wasn't right, particularly as I had read on here the alternator cable was a single cable, so thanks for the information, I'll see if I can get hold of one from the local dealers.
regards
John
It is a single cable (at least for the TDI model), though Ford's parts diagram (http://eucatparts.com/?action=cat_ford_part&s_id_part=24773&s_id_model=99) is misleading- it's number 1 on that diagram, I bought one a while back- Ford's FINIS number was 1495874. The picture shows the cable with small multiplug connectors that look like they may be for the alternator multiplug terminal but it doesn't come like that, it's just a single large diameter cable.
Thanks, I unscrewed , cleaned up as best I could, then tightened up the current cable, and it has stopped heating up , I'm regularly checking that now until I receive the new parts.
As for the warning lights etc, I believe I discovered the cause of the blown fuse; I noticed, well I didn't my son did, that the passenger side headlight had blown (which is interesting as I would have thought I'd have noticed only having one working dipped beam the moment it happened!) The new fuse cured all the symptoms and the cleaned and tightened connection solved the heating issue, although I was thinking Ã,£50 to diagnose a blown fuse, I then realised it was Ã,£50 to find my overheating cable issue, so I'm well pleased with that! So now I've had a trouble free Christmas and driven around 600 miles with no problems, and no overheating cables!
One thing I really am fascinated by, is the dashboard warning lights and their meanings, so far, the only one that actually signalled anything relating to the fault that the drivers manual says it signals has been the 'low brake pad' light, but even then it didn't indicate a 'low pad', it indicated that the chunk of wood I hit on the motorway had damaged the brake pad to sensor cable - still that's close enough I guess!
Hello, Still haven't replaced these on brothers car (Life gets in the way) anyway phoned Ford for prices was told the fuse box under the bonnet was....wait for it over Ã,£1000 told him it can't be but he argued so I just said doesnt matter, so I rang a different Ford dealer (same franchise but different location in area), this time the bloke knew what I was talking about but to be sure he sent me 2 emails (pictures from their parts catalogue), picture one is the Fuse box No 26 in the picture (Part No 1112108) price at Ã,£50.08 inc VAT, picture 2 is the Alternator cable (Part No 1121563 or white label on old cable may have YM21 on it) No 1 in the picture priced at Ã,£134.64 Inc VAT (but I did find it cheaper at FordPartsUK Ã,£127.78 delivered) but I'll get one made out of 170amp or 200amp cable, one quick question is do the cable terminals have a special name, can only find them without the nut attached and Ford don't sell them.
Picture 1
(http://i58.tinypic.com/14c87j6.jpg)
Picture 2
(http://i59.tinypic.com/161xif7.jpg)
Doesn't really matter if the nut is not attached as long as the cable and crimp terminal fit the fuse box, don't forget to solder the crimps to the cables.
Whats the cross section of the required cable?( xxmm?)
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=161461001088&alt=web
These seem a bargain , 1 mtr 25mm sextion 170 amp Ã,£14.50
Humm yeah great price, have you bought one? Let us know the quality!
Nope aint broken yet