This is a guide for removing a gearbox on 130bhp 1.9tdi Alhambra, 6 speed- other models will vary slightly but broadly similar. It's not too bad a job and certainly can be done by anyone with decent experience of working on their car. I did it on a driveway with a crane and a jack. Once you have removed the box I would always recommend a clutch change while you are in there. I didnââ,¬â,,¢t, purely because the old clutch only had 10,000 miles on it and was a known quality make. But otherwise changing the clutch is not much more work and a very sensible thing to do once the box is out.
I havenââ,¬â,,¢t sorted through most photos yet but will come back and add them. Let me know if there is a photo of anything in particular you need.
Tools needed
Good quality range of sockets, including Allen type- I used mainly Ã,½ââ,¬Â drive, with some 3/8ââ,¬Â and Ã,¼ââ,¬Â for the smaller stuff.
Engine crane. HSS and others hire them cheaply by the day/weekend if you donââ,¬â,,¢t have one.
A spline socket- think it was M10- for the driveshaft bolts and also a security type spline socket for the gearbox drain and filler plugs. These are cheap on ebay. (My original gearbox had ââ,¬Ëœnormalââ,¬â,,¢ sockets for the oil plugs, the replacement needed the security type. Same gearbox code so maybe only fitted on different years.)
(http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y424/chillijacket/socket_zpsh4m1yfze.png)
At least one good trolley jack and a set of axle stands.
I used the Haynes manual as a guide- as usual not 100% accurate but useful to have. Just remember as a basic principle you are removing everything that connects to the gearbox- check at least twice before finally dropping it out!
Working above- in the engine bay
Step 1-. Unhook the bonnet ram (one small clip-donââ,¬â,,¢t lose) and push the bonnet right back. There is no need to remove the bonnet as Haynes suggests.
Step 2-Remove the battery, the plastic shield around it and the battery tray itself. This involves unclipping lots of multiplugs- label these or take photos so you can reattach! I then used cable ties to move all the wires out of the way. You also need to unbolt the coolant reservoir and rest it on top of the engine.
Step 3- Unbolt the ecu and carefully move it to one side, again I cable tied it out the way.
Step 4- You can now see the top of the gearbox. It has two gear selector cables that need to be removed. These have two small clips that just slide off- you can then pull the cable off the selector mechanism. You then need to detach the cable support bracket (with cables still attached)-this has 3 bolts and can then be tied up near the bulkhead out the way.
Step 5- Detach the clutch fluid pipe and move out the way.
Step 6- Just under the fluid connection is the reverse switch- disconnect and move away.
Under the car
Step 7- Loosen the wheel nuts and driveshaft bolts on both sides, then jack up as high as your axle stands will allow. Make sure the car is fully secure before proceeding. I used two axle stands and left the wheels and jack under as extra precautions.
Step 8- Remove the under tray and then drain the gearbox of its oil- you may well need the security type socket mentioned earlier.
Step 9-Remove the driveshafts, both sides. I used this post as a guide- https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/galaxy-inner-cv-jointboot-renewal-mk2/ (https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/galaxy-inner-cv-jointboot-renewal-mk2/) Note: You must remove the stub from the gearbox on the offside- this makes it MUCH easier to manoeuvre the gearbox out.
Step 10- Remove the starter motor, tie the associated wiring back.
Step 11- Support the engine and gearbox. I found using an engine crane to hold the gearbox and a trolley jack with a transmission adaptor like this:
(http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y424/chillijacket/adaptor_zpsfcn8i47p.png)
was best. This allowed me control of the box when removing and refitting. I originally intended to use the transmission jack for the box but it was too cramped under the car- supporting the box from above made it much easier to move it into position. You could use a trolley jack and wood to spread the load- just make sure both engine and box are fully supported before proceeding.
*Be careful you donââ,¬â,,¢t damage the oil temp sensor when supporting the engine on the sump. I was not careful and had to replace the sensor!*
Step 12- (Engine bay) Remove the upper engine mounting- just a few bolts- these were tight and needed and breaker bar to start them.
Step 13- Have a final check- is the engine and box supported and secure? Is everything disconnected from the gearbox?
Step 14-Remove the bell housing bolts- I think there were 6, plus those remove earlier with the starter
Step 15 Remove the lower engine support, followed by final bell housing bolt you can now access.
Step 16- You can now separate the gearbox and engine. It helps to have someone operate the crane at this point while you are underneath guiding the box down to the floor- it is a tight fit! Once itââ,¬â,,¢s on the floor it can be dragged out.
Step 17- As mentioned it is now strongly advised to change the clutch while you are at this point.
Reassembly
Basically the classic reversal of the above procedure. Some points to note:
The input shaft must be lined up perfectly with the clutch- using the engine crane to get the correct height helps greatly here. You can then slide the gearbox back in from the side.
I used the starter motor bolts to help locate the box to start- it then slid on. It does need a degree of strength to persuade the box back on, even with the crane.
Donââ,¬â,,¢t forget the fill the new box with the correct oil!
Good job! If you are able to upload the other images then we can add the writeup into the reference library!
gotpics [GJ]
Yes, will do, just need to move them onto computer :)
Great post!