Looks like i have the broken wire syndrome, never had it in 12 years with the Mk1 but the central lock and window don't work on rear pass door. Have looked at the link how to do the job but maybe I'm not reading it right, do you..
unscrew the lock ring then remove it to then pull the boot from the inside of the door over the plug but not all the way so as to remove it or looking at the same thread on Galaxy.org on there it seems to say push the boot inwards towards the door away from the plug. which is the right way to access the wires, also it says if there are a few wires remove the door card and unplug from inside. where the wires go into the door itself is there a lug that you can't see to simply unplug ?
Unscrew the ring, when the plug is unplugged carefully pull the plug and the gaiter the gaiter only sits in a groove in the door, once the gaiter is clear of the door and kept close to the plug you should be able to see the wires clearly.
The problem is the gaiter will get in the way of any repairs you do so you need to decide whether you can work with it there or to partly remove it, I say partly because it's a bugger to get over the plug.
The other option is to unplug all the connections inside the door and pull the loom out far enough to work on .
all really depends on how bad it is.
ok got that thats where the spray silicone seems to come in, the gaiter is pulled part way towards and partly over the plug to expose the wires. will see how it goes another day.
hi all, thought i would repair rear pass door wires, what a sod of a job, the boot sure don't want to come over the plug its so tight ! anyway taped up some wires repaired a couple of others and all is back working as it should.
thought i would look at front door, i released the nut but as i was turing it was also turning the thing in the door piller is there a knack of holding this one still as otherwise I'm just going round and round no doubt twisting the wires i nipped it back up and as everything is working thought id leave well alone.
Remove the scuff/trim panel, you can the keep pressure on the rear of the socket, unfortunately the locking ring that holds the socket in place doesn't do a very good job.
found these on ebay looks to me like they may work on the door looms for non experts at soldering joints
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50-MIXED-HEAT-SHRINK-SOLDER-BUTT-TERMINAL-THROUGH-CONNECTOR-HEATSHRINK-NON-CRIMP-/400658733608?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Terminals_Cabling_ET&hash=item5d491f1a28
not sure if that link works heres the item simple to find on ebay
a connector you put the wire in each end heat it with gun and it solders and heat shrinks in one job anyone used them ?
I've used them at work. They will unfortunately leave a stiff section in the cable that is quite (relatively speaking) long. As the wires need to be flexible with the repeated bending, I suspect they will fail again sooner.
The remaining insulation is probably already degraded (with time and the extra heat caused by the failing strands increasing resistance).
Unfortunately the best thing to do is to replace the existing wire with new.
Not had to do this yet, but expect it to be soon as my drivers door speaker is quiet and the one-touch window operation keeps needing resetting.
Quote from: marinabrid on July 14, 2014, 09:27:40 PM
not sure if that link works heres the item simple to find on ebay
a connector you put the wire in each end heat it with gun and it solders and heat shrinks in one job anyone used them ?
sorted the link for you :)
maybe some expert could show the best way to splice a new piece in as i tried and made a pigs ear but did the best for an amateur.
Like this one ? https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/ford-galaxy-repairing-broken-door-wiring/ (https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/ford-galaxy-repairing-broken-door-wiring/)
thats the one i followed but to a soldering novice it don't show how to solder two wires and splice it together, thats if there a right way and a wrong way to do it, especially the thicker wires.
Your right it isn't particularly easy. The bigger ones get harder to do because they need more heat and the thicker copper pulls away the heat faster too. Then once joined the solder takes a bit longer to cool enough to hold the wires too.
Unfortunately it's a matter of practice.