Logged my MAF on the way to work yesterday.
[attach=1]
I guess this shows it's not working properly. I only decided to check it as the mechanic left the connector off when they replaced a brake pipe for the MOT (I guess they moved it out of the way while topping up the reservoir) and I hadn't noticed a power difference while driving it. Only found out when using VCDS-Lite to check/clear codes from when I let the battery go flat!
I'm not having any hesitancy and power doesn't feel down, so I guess it's always been like that since I got it. I average about 37-40mpg on a tank.
Any one have any idea on how much should a decent replacement be? I want a good quality one as I have read of the issues buying a cheap one can give. Any recommendations for make and where to get one? I've not looked but does it have a FORD/VW/Manufacturers part number on it anywhere? Or is there any possibility of cleaning/fixing it?
I can't help with interpreting your read out, but if you do need a replacement then it's another shout out to GSF (http://www.gsfcarparts.com/parts/fuel-emissions/mixture-formation/air-mass-sensor) from me, their 'premium' brand should be Bosch but you can always ask them to confirm.... You probably already know this but the 130 and 150hp TDI use a larger bore MAF than the 90's and 115's so if you do need one, make sure it's correct for the power output. Like you say, a lot of the cheap stuff on ebay isn't worth the hassle and a used one is a lottery, it needs to be pukka Bosch (or equivalent- Pierburg etc), the O.E ones are usually Bosch (mine is) and have a Bosch part number on which should help you match it up.
Not sure if cleaning the old one will help, the only way in which it is likely to help is if oil contamination from the crankcase breather system is preventing it from working properly, I don't think the Mk2 is as prone to this as some other Fords I've worked on, e.g the 1.6 DV6 diesel in some of the applications- the C-MAX being one- the MAF is sat very close to the compressor wheel of the turbo and the crankcase breather system and tends to accumulate oil!
Thanks for the reply.
The plot seems pretty similar to the one for the bad MAF in the link in the knowledge base here https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/galaxy-tdi-using-vcdsvag-com-to-diagnose-faults/ (https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/galaxy-tdi-using-vcdsvag-com-to-diagnose-faults/)
Are you sure you actually have a problem? MAF reading will be higher if EGR is blanked or not working.
Could you do another test using 003. 010. 011 together, with some 100% throttle around 3000RPM
Hi Chris,
No I'm not sure it's faulty it drives the same as it has all the time I have had it (4 years next September).
It just passed MOT emissions on a Fast Pass and I have always been happy with mpg (but I did have a 2litre Volvo V40 Auto before!)
Only checked as I drove it home (only 15 min) with MAF disconnected as above. I don't believe it will have had EGR blanked as I haven't done it and the bloke I bought it off had owned it from new and had it garage maintained (local not Ford, I still have all the service receipts he provided).
By 003, 010 and 011 I assume you mean the Measuring Block Groups on the Engine. Might be next week before I can do this though. Might have to hold it on the brakes though to do the 100% at 3000rpm to allow long enough for it to log it. Not enough fast road to do it in a high gear, as they keep dropping the speed limits, and it tends to take off if I do it in a lower gear.
It certainly doesn't sound like you have any power problems.
Yes measuring blocks 003 010 011 together long uphill inclines are best, from about 30MPH in 4th or 5th floor it and hold up to 3500RPM and also a few seconds at idle, post as CSV file
Hi Silverbeast,
From what you say you certainly have enough power. When my MAF was faulty there was just no get up and go. I got my replacement MAF from these people, They were the cheapest at the time for a reconditioned one and I've had no problems since which must be over 3 years. http://www.autotekelectronics.com/autotek/?Page=Results&CatDescription=Airflow+Meter&PartNumber=&MakeDesc=FORD&YearFrom=&EngineSize=&ModelDesc=GALAXY&YearFrom=&EngineSize=&PartNumber=
Hi, sorry that link doesn't seem to work. Try this.. http://www.autotekelectronics.com/autotek/
Quote from: steveo59 on April 27, 2014, 12:14:22 AM
Hi Silverbeast,
From what you say you certainly have enough power. When my MAF was faulty there was just no get up and go. I got my replacement MAF from these people, They were the cheapest at the time for a reconditioned one and I've had no problems since which must be over 3 years. http://www.autotekelectronics.com/autotek/?Page=Results&CatDescription=Airflow+Meter&PartNumber=&MakeDesc=FORD&YearFrom=&EngineSize=&ModelDesc=GALAXY&YearFrom=&EngineSize=&PartNumber=
File attached. You probably only need to look at the last block captured as the file is over 5000 lines as I had several goes at it. The last block should have what you asked for, though there does seem to be a jump near the end, not sure if it is when the laptop screen went off (it may have been going into Standby)
[attach=1]
Hi Richard
Maf looks good to me showing over 1000 MG/STR at 3000RPM which is good, turbo boost figures also good.
The only problem I see is the EGR diaphragm is either leaking or it's gummed up, it should be about 60% cycle at idle but shows mostly 84% which is closed.
Thanks for that.
Wouldn't be massively surprised if it was gummed up, the majority of my journeys are about 20mins to/from work, or even shorter (5min) into town to go the supermarket. I guess this wouldn't let it warm up enough to help soften any oily deposits. There was some oil when I removed the pipe into the EGR from the intercooler while sorting out the Run-On pump.
(i) Could it be a leaky vacuum hose going to the diaphragm? Or faulty EGR vacuum control solenoid?
(ii) Is there a way to check for leaks in the diaphragm? Suck on a hose connected to it?
(iii) Can the valve be cleaned? What with?
I guess it may have to wait until I have got time to strip it out.
There will allways be an oil presence in the pipe due to crankcase fumes,
Test the diaphragm first before cleaning because if it's faulty it's a throw away job.
You can use a Mityvac pump or utilize the vacuum on the car, am sure you can use output test in VCDS if you have a registered version.
Cleaning, I used degreaser on mine and the manifold (once removed)
Mark has done a how to in the reference libraryLink (https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/galaxy-mk2-intake-manifold-cleaning/)
Thanks again.
I realise that oil is normal after reading Mirez's description of the system operation in the Library Link.
I looked at the guide earlier as it's also useful for instructions on removing EGR valve. (I even remember reading it on the "old" site!). TIS says to disconnect an engine mount and move the engine forwards!
TIS suggest moving the engine forward for a few operations that give you a few inches of extra room, but knowing how fragile the aircon pipes can be would advise against doing that, with regards to removing EGR just removing the bulkhead extension is sufficient.