Hi guys, I am having trouble with a drivers elec window which just stopped working. I was going to try testing the switch first but wondered if anyone had an easy at to do this. Was going to try shorting across the terminals to see if it would work that way but am worried that might blow fuses if I connect together the wrong ones. Does anyone know order of wiring in the switch? Many thanks
If you look at the diagrams I posted below, you will see the multiplug pin numbers, use the switch contact number to locate the correct wires to short together.
Link (https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy/mk1-1-9tdi-electric-windows/msg8177/?topicseen#new)
But I would suspect broken wires in the door gaiter is the problem.
Hi Chris, thanks for that link but I can't seem to work out the correct wires from it. The connector to the window function has six wires marked 1-6. I can detect a 12+ with my multimeter but when I tried connecting this to some of the other ports the wire just smoked and got hot 😳Also, I checked the wires and they seem ok. When I press the up button I can hear a click but with the down button nada. The passenger window works fine from this module too. Am thinking it must be the switch..? But would like to test it for sure before a trip to the scrap yard.
Just to clarify pin numbers on drivers side window switch.
1 & 6 illumination
2 Drivers door motor
3 +12v Live
4 - 12v Earth
5 Passenger door motor
So by linking 2 & 3 together window up, and linking 2 & 4 window down.
Thanks Chris, shorted across and window is working so must be the switch 😊
[GJ]
Quote from: Chrispb on April 04, 2014, 09:25:34 PM
Just to clarify pin numbers on drivers side window switch.
1 & 6 illumination
2 Drivers door motor
3 +12v Live
4 - 12v Earth
5 Passenger door motor
So by linking 2 & 3 together window up, and linking 2 & 4 window down.
so what polarity is the switch when its pressed up or down chris?
Hi Dave
Polarity of the switch?
As I understand it the polarity of the switch doesn't alter, the switch doesn't carry the heavy current to operate the motor, that's already present at the motor/module, the switch just sends a 12+ or - to the module, the module then reverses the current flow to the motor.
Of course I stand to be corrected as always :)
Reason i ask Chris is im in the middle of through trial and error bypassing the module in the lifter mech which ive done and ive used two relays wired to each other to roll the glass up and down by reversing the polarity of the motor. The switch just needs to throw out a negative signal to the relays for the circuit to work. It can work by a 12v signal from the switch but the relays will need slightly rewiring. Sorry for rambling on but thought id share with you guys my mod hehe ;)
No problem Dave let's have a look at the mod diagram when your done.
Btw - does anyone have experience with repairing the switches? I've heard that it can be a simple case of cleaning the contacts...
Result! Opened up the switch (quite simple) and gave the contacts a sanding and all operations are 100% again. Thanks for the help 😊
good tip alex. i was thinking there would be small springs or the likes in the switch to ping out and get lost lol. :)
Haha well yes there are springs to ping out and get lost as I found to my cost and spent 10 mins searching in the grass. However, the springs are in the top part of the switch and this does not have to be removed at all. The contacts are in the level below and there is nothing else but them to fall out. They can be a little fiddly to replace but not rocket science 😉
Hi alexk,
I have the same problem with the switch, I am a novice at this and was looking at how I get to the switch.
Is it easy to get the trim off the door, I wonder if you could just describe how you got to the switch.
Any advice much appreciated. :)