Hi all and first hope you all have a very Merry Christmas and a Great new year.....
Okay looking for professional help and I believe this is the place to get it
1. my turbo is running louder than normal.
2. every now and then the turbo stops there in no loud noise and the car runs smooth but total loss of power.
2. if Iam going up a hill and put my foot down with the turbo running it is loud and there is black smoke streaming out of the back of the car ???
3. in general the car still runs fine except I believe the turbo is presenting a problem now I know they are expensive but what I need to know is can I recondition the turbo myself or am i wasting my time.
I have a good understand of working on car and in the post carried out complete engine overhauls when I was younger. I am not righting myself of but do not wish to be wasting my time.
welcome5
Sound like the cars going into limp mode, you may have over or under boost both cause the car to go into limp mode but the fix will be different.
You may do better to get yourself a Vagcom/VCDS cable first and do a scan of your engine ECU, once you have this info diagnosis should be easier.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-GROUP-USB-COM-PORT-OBD2-II-KKL-ECU-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-LEAD-WORK-VCDS-LITE-409-/271036790042?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3f1b0d351a
Cleaning of the turbo can be done by a competent DIYer Click here (https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/turbo-removal-115-pd-engine/)
There are turbo cleaners one being "Innotec" this can be done insitu but does require a certain amount of dismantling
Hi there thank you for your fast reply and its a great step in the right direction but will I have to buy the software for the Lap top which costs Ã,£99.00 ????
No you probably would never need to, registering will give you full functionality but you could do render your car undriveable by changing certain settings if your not familiar with the program.
I have never used the program before :'( and don't like the idea of turning my car in to a posh tin can is there a safety net involved with the program
The unregistered version is safe, this is a very popular piece of kit for working on these vehicles you can save yourself pounds by doing your own diagnostic scan and clearing fault codes.
If you need help setting up and using the program just ask on here or you may have a member near you willing to help.
It would depend entiely on whats wrong with turbo as to if you can overhaul it - the stripping and rebuilding isnt the difficult bit, finding the parts would be your problem.
Is the car using oil? Whilst it can be difficult to determine, Black smoke is a sign of running rich, Blue smoke is a sign of burning oil. What sort of noise is it?
No this car has a full service history from new and I am the third owner its been well looked after hence not using any oil and the turbo just sounds like a load rush off air and increases as you go faster :( :'( :'( :'( and once again thank you all for all the help....(//)
A certain amount of turbo spooling noise is normal on these engines but a sudden change in noise may be something as simple as a split air charge hose or leaking intercooler, this would show up as under boost when checking fault codes, and the black smoke due to lack of boost pressure.
okay received my VCDS-Lite lead and time to rock and roll i have down loaded the software and drivers is it just a case of plug in and run test to receive fault code about my TURBO ??? ??? ??? ??? ???
Plug in, Ignition on, open VCDS, select control module (01 - Engine) - read fault codes.
Okay attached my lap top to my VCD today after down loading the software and drivers only to be faced with this please help meeeeeeeeee
And this
Looks like you have VCDS installed not VCDS-LITE. I believe VCDS needs a dedicated Ross-Tech Interface. VCDS-Lite works with the cheaper ebay interfaces.
(i) Dis you install the drivers that came with the lead?
(ii) Download and install VCDS-Lite from the link at the bottom of this page --> http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.html (http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.html)
Sorry, first picture does show VCDS-Lite. Make sure you have installed the drivers for you interface. You need to then go into Device Manager in windows and check which COM port it is using, and select that in the Program Options section of VCDS-Lite. Then press Test button to check the interface has been found.
Hi thanks for your reply I down loaded the two programs the lite and the 12.12 the two photos are of each program thank you for your fast reply
What version of Windows are you using?
Stick to VCDS-Lite.
Windows 7 :P
Yep use VCDS lite, as said check in device manager needs to be using COM port 1 to 4 also go into advanced COM port settings and change latency timer from 16 to 3 click OK and exit, then open VCDS lite, click options now make sure the com port is the same one as in device manager if it is click ok and that should be it.
Okay my friend I am starting to feel like a pain now but sorry to say a real need help getting my lap top to find my hardware I have looked in my device manager with no success at this time please send me a step by step but here is a photo of my computer dm
At last I have a fault code WOOP WOOP here it is see photo thanks peeps
OK looking at the shot of device manager you haven't plugged your lead into one of your USB sockets, so to make sure your laptops recognising your lead.
1.Power up the laptop
2 Plug in the lead
3. open device manager, you should now have Ports (COM & LPT) double click on COM & LPT you should then have USB serial port (COM 1.2.3.4) if it's a number higher than 4 then you need to change it, if it's 4 or lower just remember it for a moment.
4.Now double click the COM port shown in device manager, serial port properties opens, click the port settings tab then click advanced now if you had a higher COM number than 4 this is where you can change it if not move on to 5
At the top of advanced settings for COM!!! click the dropdown arrow and select 1 to 4
5. change latency timer from 16 to 2 or 3 now click OK OK and close device manager
6. Now open VCDS lite click options now make sure the COM port highlighted is the same as the one you had or changed to, click the test button.
7. Now you should see a small window with VCDS lite port test which say port status OK Interface not found.
8. Close options screen then take laptop to car, plug in lead to car then switch on ignition without starting engine, now on the main screen click select then click engine, after a few seconds you should see information fill out (Green text)
Click for more info and demo
http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/tour/main_screen.html
good luck :) anything else just ask.
Ah ha you beat me to it, so you have under boost which as you said you can hear extra turbo noise is probably a split hose.
yes yes yes thank you thank you, you have all been great now to find the spit hose thats great news ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) :D :D :D :D :) :) :) :) 8-) 8-) 8-) 8-) 8-) :P :P :P :P :P
Okay fellow Peeps I have been under the bonnet and under the car to look for pipes off or split on the turbo unit but they are all intact. :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( But when looking from under the car I noticed that when looking up at the manifold just left of the turbo there is a lot of OIL around the pipes can it be that the EGR valve is clogged up and needs cleaning out :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ also on looking at the turbocharge it is looking in good condition.
If you stick your head under the bonnet and get somebody to rev the engine up whilst you listen, can you hear a whooshing sound anywhere to indicate air escaping from the intercooler pipework?
Oil leaking from the EGR area is normal (well its not supposed to but they nearly all do) so I wouldn't worry about that to much. The EGR and manifold could probably do with a de-coke but unless its got a massive mileage on it and done a lot of idling (aka taxi style) then its unlikely to be coked to the point of causing a blockage.
The fault code you have indicates that the air the turbo is compressing (called the "charge") is escaping. To check isn't just a case of looking for loose hoses etc around the turbo, you need to check the entire charge system which is the rubber pipe out of the turbo, the metal pipe down to the inter-cooler, the rubber between that pipe and the inter-cooler, the inter-cooler itself and the then the remaining pipe work all the way back up to the EGR value (and then the intake manifold). Ideally, you want to do this with the engine and turbo running so you can feel for any escaping air but of course be safe.
Make extra checks around the inter-cooler itself as stone's can puncture them causing this problem - is yours a 115, 130 or 150?
Finally, if you don't have any leaks then the next thing is to check the vacuum line to the turbo to ensure its also not leaking or is kinked/crushed which could cause it not be able to open the vanes fully. If that's ok then the next thing would be to look at replacing the air valve that control's the turbo operation (up on the bulkhead) and finally the actuator itself on the turbo.
how do I find out which of the three inter-cooler models you have quoted is on my car ???
That's the power rating of the engine, the 115 has its own and the 130/150 use the same.
If you go here: https://www.etis.ford.com/
Click "Vehicle" and enter your reg or VIN number - it will tell you in the top right ie:
"Galaxy 2000-2006, 1.9L Diesel TC(115PS)"
HAY that's a great web page its a 115ps modal mate once again thank you for all your help you have all been great. why do you ask about the PS of my car
Because the 115 has a much smaller intercooler and more crucially much lower one then the 130/150 which makes it more prone to damage by stones. It also suffers a fault where the seals between aluminium and the plastic surround break down. Get checkin' :)
thank you great help no more trying time to get hands dirty >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:(
Okay looking for more advice I have have the mrs rev the car when under the bonnet and under the car I can here a wush of air but still can not see no broken pipes but I did notice on the driver side of the inter cooler there is a layer of oil around the outlet pipe area ??? How mush of a hole crack or damage Do you need to affect turbo performance ???
Can you narrow down the general area where the noise of escaping air is coming from- i.e, front of engine (intercooler area), rear of engine (turbo/EGR valve)? Are there any loose clips on the intercooler hoses? A little oil misting around the pipe connections isn't unusual but if it's loads it may indicate a problem.
Afternoon peeps just come off night duty 3 night thought as it was dry this morning I would get 4hrs zzz then crack on with the turbo problem so stripped down the egr to find that the O ring was split on the 90 angle out let pipe great thought problem solved on the find the real problem look at photo thank all great help oo and by the way it rained ha ha ha
Yep it the 90 D angle outlet pipe from the egr anyone know where I can get one from cheap please..
Couple on Ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-SHARAN-SEAT-ALHAMBRA-AIR-INTAKE-TURBO-PIPE-HOSE-1-9-TDi-2000-2010-MEYLE-/150969999804?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item23268361bc
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-SHARAN-MK2-2001-2005-1-9-TDI-TURBO-INTAKE-SMALL-PIPE-7M3145708B-/321293844018?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ace9afe32
VVVVVVOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM turbo yes baby ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) :D :D :D :D
oh behaveeeee. ;)
I take it he's fixed it now :)