replace steering rack that is leaking

[tacochewy]

My 2005 Sharan 1.9 tdi has started leaking power steering fluid from the nearside gaiter of the steering rack at the inner track rod, the gaiter has split so I assume dirt has entered. So far i've topped up about 500ml in 700 miles. Yesterday I added some lucas stop leak to see if that will fix it, but am now regretting it as a lot of forum members say it may cause other issues.
I am assuming I am probably going to have to think about replacing the steering rack.
Is this a possible at home diy job with the car on axel stands? As far as I'm aware you need to lower the subframe and this is beyond anything I've done before.
I'm reasonably competent diy mechanic but with he car on axel stand the space under the car is really limited and I don't want to take on more than I can chew, and some of the bolts look really hard to access, especially the hydraulic line unions.
Can anyone offer advice?

[Chrispb]

There is a pretty good video on you tube if you haven't seen it. The hydraulic pipes may be difficult without a slotted pipe spanner or socket with adaptor, of course working under the car makes it more difficult, it will help greatly if you have the back end of car raised aswell you do not have to remove the crossmember only lower it leaving the wishbone arms attached to the hubs.
The crossmember bolts will be very tight use impact sockets (6 point) do not use (12 point) sockets or you risk rounding off the bolt heads.

Good luck

[Chrispb]

Also make sure when disconnecting steering column you keep steering wheel in straight ahead position and when refitting new rack it is also in the central position otherwise you will damage the clockspring.

[tacochewy]

Thanks for your advice chrispb.
I'll let you know how it goes, I'll be ordering a reconditioned rack before the weekend.

[tacochewy]

Does anyone know what size head the cross member (front subframe) bolts are?

I've a a 22mm  six point socket, but if I need bigger I need to go shopping.

Also do you have any idea what size crowsfoot spanner the hydraulic line union bolts are, I have unto 19mm.

thanks in advance

 

[tacochewy]

sorry so many questions.
I think the crossmember bolts are stretch bolts, is it absolutely necessary to replace these with new bolts, if so does anyone know the part number.
Some of the youtube videos I've watched show the original bolts going back so maybe it's ok not to get new ones.

[Chrispb]

Can't remember sizes it's been a long time since I done one but don't think they are bigger than 22mm, I seem to recall the front and rear bolts are different sizes, personally I would just use some thread locker on the bolts when refitting.

[Mirez]

The subframe bolts aren't stretch, there is actually a TSB for vibrations where it tells you to slacken them and retighten a series of times.

[tacochewy]

Just to update.
I have now got the rack out.
The subframe bolts are 21mm, the came undone without too much difficulty.
The steering rack bolts are 17mm, the first 3 came undone then the final one had such a rusted head that I was worried about rounding off, I soaked it in penetrating oil, then hammered on a 16mm socket and thankfully it came undone. Thanks for your advice chrispb on using 6 point sockets as I think that saved the day.

When I put the recon rack in there is a problem with the mounting bolts. The issue is that the mounting bolts go through the subframe and at one end of the rack are secured in nuts that are captive in a recessed slot in the alloy housing of the rack. One of the slots in my recon rack is worn an so the captive nut spins in the recess. I can probably jam a small piece of metal in the recess againt the nut to hold it, but if I ever need to undo it at a later stage the metal may have rusted away or fallen out. I was wondering if anyone has a better solution. I am afraid I cannot weld, otherwise I would try to make the exterior of the nut larger.

[tacochewy]

BTW the  youtube video that chrispb mentioned is really useful.
Here's the link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fPx6fv-xPbU

[Chrispb]

Well done on getting to this stage, I would just work plenty of oil and grease onto the threads before finally tightening up the rack, block the nut turning by what ever means you can manage, I would work the assumption it won't be coming of again.

Majority of galaxy's this age will be near end of life unless your prepared to spend time and money on underbody corrosion repairs.

Thank you for leaving feedback it's always good to hear back how a job has gone.

Don't forget to get tracking checked once your done.

[tacochewy]

 All went smoothy today refitting the rack, until attaching the hydraulic lines.

The unions are not banjoes but there is a flared section of pipe that sits in a recess in the rack and this is then locked down with a nut. I used new O rings on the seal.
The problem is that on one of the lines the locking nut does not lock the metal line in place and you can slide the line in and out with fingers. I think the problem is that the recess that the flared seal sits in is set deeper on the replacement rack so the nut will not lock it down, could it be that it is damaged internally?
Both racks are TRW and are the same in every other respect so I am at a loss to know what is going on. Its hard to see what's different on with the new rack as it is now fitted, so I can't easily compare the two seal areas.
 

[Chrispb]

Think you will need to check with who supplied your rack as there maybe a difference in the length of the threaded part of the nut.

[tacochewy]

I had to send the rack back to the reconditioning company as there was a piece missing where the hydraulic line attaches.
So after taking the rack off and now replacing it with the replacement one I'm getting much faster at this job.
Once everything was back on and fluid refilled I bled the air out and tested the steering with the wheels still off the ground. I was quite concerned as the steering really juddered with the wheels off the ground, but I think it was because they are hanging and there is no weight on the suspension. Once I lowered the car the steering was not juddering.
On the road test there appears to be a problem with the steering not returning to straight ahead position after turning a corner, which is quite disconcerting. Also the steering wheel is now approx 25 degrees off centre when driving in a straight line.
I'm hoping the steering not returning to straight ahead is due to bad wheel alignment. I was hoping that I had kept the original alignment as I was careful to count the turns on the track rods when I removed them, but it appears the alignment is now off.
Another thing to note is that when I lowered the subframe I was not aware that it can go back in a slightly different alignment as the bolt holes are oversized  and allow adjustments of position.I think when it went back it was slightly off from its original position, I had now loosened it and repositioned it to what I think is more centred- I assume this has an effect on wheel alignment.
Btw,edit to my previous post the bolts for the steering rack are 16mm not 17mm